So my trip to the doctor didn’t happen. I was tired, I laid down for a bit, I didn’t get up for quite a while. I’ll bike to the doctor tomorrow, I just need to get a prescription refilled. While I was slacking off, glue was drying. My UHU warped my DIY ‘monster’ bases some, but I think that will gradually go away. Not only did I put UHU underneath the sand in an attempt to fix the warping I put watered down white glue on top of it. That sand isn’t going anywhere.
When the glue was dry I reached into my bit box and got some 28mm metal skulls made by Black Cat Bases. You can get 100 of these for some special price. Like anything they need a little cleaning, which is a bit awkward working on such a tiny metal piece. After some filing I tried gluing them to the bases. I used UHU again, though if my super glue hadn’t dried out… I’ve never tried using UHU to glue metal to plastic and sand, but I have used it to glue a variety of stuff in my trench making project along with Wellbond. The glue really needs more time to dry, but I gave it the tip upside down test just now and with the exception of a little cat liter it passed.
So besides skulls and cat liter I raided the Citadel plastic zombie sprues for some guts and a stray arm. I then found half an old plastic shield and I glued that to Sluggie’s base. With the Beasts of Nurgle drying it was time to make the Plaguebearers movement tray.
I used the same piece of balsa wood I used to make the ‘monster’ bases, but I used a different exacto knife. You need the best exacto knife you have to make precision cuts of the wood. I think my grandfather gave me this one, it has a hard plastic handle with a metal attachment. I also got out my metal square, though I used the wooden ruler for measuring. After measuring twice I repeatedly drew the exacto knife over the pencil line, using the square as a guide. It didn’t go perfectly but it went better with this knife. You don’t have to cut the wood in one pass, ten passes even might not cut through the wood. When you’re mostly through you can try breaking it, then with a tiny bit of sanding you’re good to go.
I got out another piece of balsa I bought for my trenches, this one is about 4mm by 4mm thick. One side seems wider than the other so I used the larger measurement. After allowing for the wood lip to overlay the movement tray base, I got out my plaguebearers for a test fit. I thought I was going to have to glue another piece to the back, but it fits pretty good with only a tiny bit of acceptable overhang. In a perfect world I’d put a lip on the back, but that was too nice a fit already to mess with.
I cut the ends and got out a whole bunch of little orange clamps I got at Home Depot years ago. These really saved the day or made the project. I retired the UHU and used the Wellbond and made sure to use my finger to completely cover the edge pieces. Then I wiped away excess glue on the side, then finally placed it on the base and clamped it down. I repeated this two more times with the sides. Again any slight overhang I just plan to sand off.
I took some pictures, then I got out the ruler and took another picture. It appears to have 25 cm of interior space. I’m not sure if the Plaguebearer bases are supposed to be one inch or 25mm, I believe because the game originated in England, 25mm is the official measurement, but even then there might be a mm of space. With 25cm of interior width my Neatherworldly Mathematicians should ride comfortably in their new movement tray.
It’s gotten hot again, possibly good for drying the glue. Later tonight or tomorrow I will sand as necessary and paint black the bases and movement trays, likely using the Delta Ceramcoat. Then I’ll do some drybrushing… I was going to glue sand to the edges of the movement tray but now I’m undecided… I probably will. That means more drying time but I have until noon on Sunday the 25th to complete this stuff for the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires campaign at Strategies.