Painting Nurgle and Necromunda

Nurgle does not appear to be part of Necromunda yet, though his followers were recently added to Warcry…

Nurgle does not appear to be part of Necromunda yet, though his followers were recently added to Warcry. Those appear to be my three painting focuses in 2020. I’m slowly working on getting my Nurgle groove back, by painting Nurglings with contrast paints. I’m also painting old and new Night Goblins err Gloomspite Gitz to use in Warcry and after many many years my all metal Escher gang from the nineties will return to the table resplendent in their green and purple gang uniforms. If this sounds like your bag baby, then this could be the blog for you.

In the time of the Coronavirus I should perhaps be painting more, but I’m actually working from home, so I spend a lot of time at my desk, so the fact that I’m right back at my desk tonight to update this blog is a tribute to my commitment to #MiniatureMonday. I’ve actually put in a lot of time on basically four models, three green, purple, and brown stands of Nurglings and an OOP Escher ganger with a lasgun. All had Contrast Paints used on them, the Nurglings especially.

I’m still not a Contrast Paint master, I should probably thin them more often, and I should probably thin my washes more too. I wanted a dark purple but I think contrast paints work better in multiple thin coats rather than one coat right out of the pot and call it done. I always end up shading contrast paints, highlighting, using glazes etc. I think the contrast paints make a good glaze actually and I’ll have to experiment more with thinning them as my vintage Citadel glaze collection is incomplete and irreplaceable.

That last statement may not be true, some people like me still use paint they bought in the 90s others have discovered that companies other than Citadel including Coat d’Arms and Warcolors may have duplicated vintage Citadel paints. Other companies make paint too and you can blend any custom color. I do blend custom colors you can see this on the Escher ganger’s blue hair but doing a whole army, say 100 power armoured dudes in custom blends will take time. The appeal of Contrast was it supposedly saved time, but I’m on record as saying coloured primers in rattle cans or airbrushed basecoats with a wash is faster when your goal is a lot of models that look very similar.

This is a reason I’m pro-skirmish game. I’m a slow painter and I actually want all my models to look different. I don’t mind reusing purple, green and brown so the models look similar, and I had certain “go to” techniques and colors for painting skin, or power weapons, or plasma guns. Now a lot of those paints are solid, so matching the purples from the 90s or even the purples from the damn bolter pot era will take work. I’m actually tempted to not even try, but I want to make it so my seven squads of plague marines are all legal and if possible all unique.

That is a big project in the mean time I test out Contrast paints trying to determine if I’ll use them on my plague marines or stick to the tried and true techniques of the 90s and early 2000s. Nurglings don’t have to all look the same and neither do gangers. Even Nurgle models are unlikely to be in a dress parade any time soon, I do wish I’d painted the models the same color, it is easier to repaint squad markings than it is to repaint entire models.

WIP Constrast Paint Nurglings

If you’ve gotten this far and are disappointed, what can I say I’m tired. I only have one desk so I have to paint, then clean off my desk so I can work Monday morning. I should blog as I paint and some people think I should vlog. The main colors I used above are: Ork Flesh, Shyish Purple, and Gore-Grunta Fur. I had a lot of problems with base coating three stands of Nurgle. I’ll try again and next time I’ll likely thin the contrast paint with contrast medium and use a bigger brush.

Contrast Paints are a bit messy so you should paint the lightest color first they tell you, but I painted the Escher ganger’s hair blue after painting her skin and lets just say blue skin on Chaos Spacemarines is cool, on Escher gangers you don’t want any blue to bleed on to your carefully highlighted flesh.

I do like Contrast Paints as accents. I’m not sold on doing every model spray painted Wraithbone as a start. I think Night Goblins and probably my Plaguemarine will benefit from the black basecoat. You can get Wraithbone in a pot and it is probably the single pot of paint I’ve used the most in 2020. I am always touching up.

This batch of Nurglings I did a lot of details like guts and tongues early but eventually purple or green or brown paint got on them. If you really committed to speed, you have to be willing to dry brush. All the Nurglings have a token dry brush. You can make your highlights less harsh with a glaze. But if you use glazes straight out of the pot or too heavy you may fine they darken away most of your highlights. I will need to thin things more if I want to stay light and benefit the most from Contrast Paints.

Purple, Green, and Brown Nurglings

As I alluded to above I was disappointed with the experience of base coating three Nurgling stands so doing 100 space marines or goblins in Contrast Paints seems like a recipe for frustration but the accent colors starting with Fresh Tearers Red which worked great for Nurgling guts, Magos Purple for Nurgling tongues, Aethermatic Blue is cool and served as a base for the Escher’s hair and Skeleton Horde is definitely a winner. In fact if someone dared me to do a loyalist army and I didn’t have so many models already I’d go Deathwing Terminators just like Owen did back at the dawn of third edition. An all or mostly terminator army is low model count and with Wraithbone spray cans, Skeleton Horde and drybrushing you should be able to crank out an army in short order, this is why skeletons or undead have always been an easy army to paint, they are drybrushable and you don’t have to be super neat painting the undead.

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It’s hard out there for a #warmonger Well not that hard but I miss my lamps and I think I should dig out a better brush and I’m still not sold on #contrastpaints Someone online swore by Guilliman flesh but I’m not. Maybe if you’re trying bulk paint barbarians but for this vintage #Escher #miniature it isn’t soft enough. I can paint flesh. I do like the bone and bloody red contrast colors. I used them on the Nurglings behind. But for fine details or even bulk painting I think there are better options. I think colored primer and a wonder wash yields better results much of the time. You also need a model with definite color blocks, this #Necromunda #model has a lot of fine details. If you’re going to join the #CultOfContrastPaints during #TheTimeOfCoronavirus you need to paint the lighter colors first and choose a scheme where the lighter colors are not in the recesses like this model’s skin tone. Well another #miniaturemonday on which I painted I hope to make more progress next weekend. I still work and I now waste time playing video games. I guess I’m a #HardcoreGamer now because I can use hashtags. #WarhammerCommunity #Wargaming #GamesWorkshop #MiniPainting #ModelPainting #GW #CoolMinis #EavyMetal #TableTopGaming #NoFilter

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This Escher’s hair is one coat of miracle blue #contrastpaint Miracle blue is sold as Aethermatic Blue, also known as #HardToSpellBlue You may recognize this blue from my squigs. This is literally #OneCoat That is right #TrueBelievers #OneCoatOfPaint #RightOutOfThePot This ignores the fact I primed then sprayed them #Wraithbone then touched up the Wraithbone many times with a brush. It also ignores the fact the purple, green and #fleshtone are not simply one coat of Contrast Paint and in fact I struggled and failed to get the green or flesh tones I wanted using a mishmash of new and #oldpaint The flesh started as Contrast skipped right over some #citadelpaints to my failing pot of #FoundryPaintSystem #Flesh5C then three #reapermasterseriespaints that probably sat way to long and I used the Contrast as a shade. I was going to go with red lips but this model has a tough to paint face. Not sure about eye color and I didn’t paint the eyebrows yet but @wframsey and I both thought go big, go blue with the hair. Not sure if I can resist giving it a #shade and a quick #highlight even a #drybrush should look good. Maybe I should consult @henrycavill These #vintage #escher #necromunda #models have a lot of detail. I’ll need a new green and purple recipe, plus a new leather, right now I’m using #EnglishUniformBrown another triad. Maybe I should have gone canvas. I miss my #og #snakebiteleather I worked on the Nurglings a bit but I want to get the Necromunda model done so I can start on the next one. Should they all have #BlueHair #WarhammerCommunity #Warhammer #Wargaming #Warmongers #GamesWorkshop #MiniatureMonday

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Yesterday I spent more time painting #nurglings than this #escher model. @wframsey was not satisfied with one coat of #contrastpaint neither was I, I guess. I used a little more of #hardtospellblue to shade the hair then I used an old #BlueWash thinned. Although I thinned the wash I think either I prefer a #greenwash or a different blue wash over this color. My pot of OG #SwoopingHawkTurquoise is a brick, and I decided to go brighter after darkening my perfectly good pale blue, so at some point I bought #deepskyblue from #vallejo and I highlighted with that. I was trying to get a fade, I mixed in more white as I went but it was a bit sloppy. I need to work on my frosted tips and #blending I have an old hexagon pot of #citadelpaints Turquoise #glaze. This smoothed out my highlights but darkened the hair once again. Rather than rehighlight I just decided “good enough”. I don’t know if I used this paint on the squigs but I should have it worked well. I ended up painting tiny details on Nurglings but I did touch up the skin on this model. For Contrast Paints some say lightest color first others might advocate painting in the recesses. But next time I think I’ll do flesh after hair. I didn’t make major mistakes but you always have a little touching up to do after using washes especially. Blue is really noticeable on #paleskin The big debate is what color to paint the scrunchies or whatever she had in her hair, Bill says black leather which is the color her boots will be. Some of my #WargamesFoundaryPaints are drying out too, so I am thinking of ordering replacements, someone recommended #Scale75 the other day too. I gotta get to work but I was prepared to post this #miniaturemonday #WarhammerCommunity #Wargaming #Warmongers #GamesWorkshop #MiniPainting #ModelPainting #GW #CoolMinis #EavyMetal #TableTopGaming #NoFilter #necromunda

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I tried Guilliman Flesh one coat out of the pot and it was too harsh for the Escher ganger. I miss my Foundary Paint Triad #5 Flesh. It needs replacing I think. I may order it again along with Charcoal Black. I need a new green, I was disappointed with the greens on the Escher ganger so I may order Woodland Green and few other classics. The Escher gang was going to be in the same colors as my Skaven Bloodbowl gang. I actually ended up using a bunch of Reaper Master Series flesh paints I was gifted, they are underrated, they make a lot of cool colors. Bloodstain Red is awesome it was featured on my Khorne models. However, if you’re going to paint a lot of flesh, keep it simple stupid, Contrast and a straight out of the pot triad sounds like a win over custom blending with a wet pallet.

If you have been following me on Instagram or hashtag #MiniatureMonday you would have seen some progress photos. I’ embed them above, but I took extra photos though maybe I should have taken more, I don’t have a photo station set up at the moment, that is another thing I may buy online, so you’ll have to make do with iPhone snaps with less than perfect lighting. I’m still waiting on some cables and adapters to improve that situation.

I spent a lot of time painting boils and pustules on Sunday. Here is my not terribly efficient but actually effective technique. You paint ochre, a dark reddish brown will also work. Then in the centre you paint orange, you can skip right over red because you put a red glaze over top. This looks good but then I put an extreme dollop of yellow on top of each pustule. I used my very goopy Badmoon Yellow pot which unlike my Swooping Hawk Turquoise is still at least liquid.

Nurglings with Pustules

I think I can do a better job on turquoise blue hair. For the squigs I highlight with a more grey pallet, but fir the hair I used Deep Sky Blue from Vallejo gradually lightened with a Vallejo pure white. Then because I did it a bit too rush I used my old Turquoise Glaze, the ones with red lids and labels. This was a great set which I wish I had the entire collection of, but back in the day you had to use mail-order or take a ferry to get stuff, and once you got to Gastown there was no guarantee they had what you wanted in stock, my old ork armies suffered from random miniatures being the only miniatures available. Now GW is a corporate juggernaught or they were pre-Coronavirus and you can order anything, but you can’t order bitz, that is a service they used to offer, I still have many metal bits form my Grand Tournament appearances.

Not sure when I’ll enter a tournament, just painting regularly and trying to update social media tires me out. I’ve started playing video games again and of course I spend too much time on social media, so I think I must wrap this up. If you have questions of suggestions you can leave them below, stay safe.

Warcry at the Sentry Box

Apparently in addition to yet being able to paint, I still remember how to play miniature wargames as I went undefeated in Warcry at the Sentry Box last weekend…

Apparently in addition to yet being able to paint, I still remember how to play miniature wargames as I went undefeated in Warcry at the Sentry Box last weekend. That was one of the last gaming events in Alberta for a while as we are being strongly encouraged to stay home now due to the Coronavirus. I’ve been working from home since then, no gym, not supposed to go out except if necessary. I did a little painting, but I need my desk for my work laptop. Apparently I am an expert at T-SQL and SSRS now, at least for a few more weeks.

Winning at Warcry

Bill of course will say it was all luck, but the truth is it was not getting distracted by shiny newly painted models and focussing on completing the mission. When playing as goblins you are usually at a disadvantage because your guys are smaller and weaker than than the enemy in almost every case. The traditional goblin equalizer is cheating using wacky warmachines. There are no warmachines in Warcry. So how do goblins or Gloomspite Gitz win?Game One of Warcry

Are spreadsheets the answer?

Self proclaimed Internet experts seem to build spreadsheets, then film YouTube videos where they distill their wisdom. But how many hits on average you do against toughness three or toughness four doesn’t seem that important to me having actually played Warcry against random opponents. What seems important to me is:

  • High Movement
  • Key Initiative Roles
  • Outnumbering Your Opponent

Lots of Attacks = More Criticals

I played against the Iron Golems and the good guys. They didn’t have a lot of toughness three or even four models. They had a lot of higher toughness models that I often could only wound on a five or a six. Warcry follows GW tradition in that a one always misses and a six always hits, but in Warcry a six is a critical. So rolling more attacks is good and of course doing extra damage on the six is better. Gloomspite Gitz can use a triple to “Stab em Good” they can also use a double to “backstab”. I see no reason they can’t do both if they activate two models carefully positioned.

Squighopper intercepts an Ogre

Killing Isn’t Everything

Even with all those extra attacks you don’t actually need to kill anyone to win, this is where speed or maneuverability comes in. In both missions I played there were objectives, one game had six and one game had just one. In both cases I strategically chose to defend and use my superior numbers to grab objectives quickly. Even coming on late, Squighoppers which move ten whole inches, twenty if they double move are great. They also have more attacks than a Boingrot Bounder which as the biggest toughest model in your gang becomes a giant target, so don’t grab the treasure with him, use him as a decoy or feed him to some combat monster.

Sacrificial Goblins

I played Skaven mostly in Bloodbowl and was famous for my fall down defence. In the original Necromunda and my memories getting hazy but probably Mordheim too, your leader was more valuable than any other ganger and you had to worry about running away. In Warcry, games only last three turns in general and although valuable your leader is as expendable as is any other goblin. Obviously in a campaign your thinking will change as models gain skills but in a one off game, I sacrificed my more expensive models and my netter to try and slow up the bigger enemy models while I used lesser gobbos and my squig to grab the goods.Gloomspite Gitz Dagger and Hammer

Ranged Attacks are Useful

Bill says there are Twists that make them less useful and I know two attacks at strength three doesn’t seem like much, but I’d much rather shoot at an Ogre with bows than have to fight him in H2H. The double volley of arrows is more effective and again you need those sixes but if I paint more models and revamp my Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang I’d have more Squighoppers, more Shootas and more Netters. Netters are only 45 points and although two out of three times I missed the crucial netting roll after spending the double, the fact that a 45 point model can hold up a 200+ point model for a single turn is a valuable skill.

What about Nurgle?

I bought the Maggotkin of Nurgle card pack for Warcry and although Nurglings getting 30 wounds or something ridiculous sounds impressive if you scroll back above I think speed, winning key initiative rolls, and outnumbering your opponent are more valuable than having the biggest toughest model on the board. Luckily some Nurgle daemons fly, so I would definitely buy and paint some of those models. I could use them in 40K too, so I just might. But first I’ll paint more Nurglings, I actually think Gloomspite Gitz is likely a better gang than Nurgle daemons. I’ve played all Nurgle daemons in Warhammer Fantasy Battle before they are slow, have almost no ranged attacks and get outmaneuvered, outshot, outmagiced, and charged. Warcry is of course a different game but one of the uses of lots of models, is making the enemy charge you so you get double attacks back with your activation. Exploiting that and using your flying guys well is likely key for Nurgle in Warcry.

New Warcry cards and paints

What’s Next?

During isolation I probably won’t get much gaming in, though I might play my first video game on my new laptop. I of course must work from home and I will also be taking a selfstudy course for work when the book arrives. I paid extra for the e-Book so lets see if I can download that now should I get ePub or PDF or both? Anyway for the purpose of this blog I primed more models, yet more Nurglings and I bought more paints, even more Contrast paints so that means more Contrast Nurglings are coming. I’m also going to try some Contrast paints out on my OOP Necromunda Escher gang. I need to paint more efficiently and if Contrast paints will help me, why wouldn’t I use them? Alas I just seem to end up using multiple washes and highlights on top of the Contrast Paint anyway.

It appears I will be reading another 325 pages about T-SQL, but I’ll also try to do some painting during the time of the Coronavirus. If you have any thoughts on miniature painting, Warcry, Gloomspite Gitz, Nurgle or Necromunda you can leave them below.

 

 

 

Warcry Gloomspite Gitz Gang is Done

It has taken a while, some of these models I’ve owned since the 1990s. Some of these models were still in blisters from the 90s but now I have a fully painted and even a fully based Night Goblin err Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang…

It has taken a while, some of these models I’ve owned since the 1990s. Some of these models were still in blisters from the 90s but now I have a fully painted and even a fully based Night Goblin err Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang and this weekend if the pandemic doesn’t stop us they will descend upon the Sentry Box and the unsuspecting.

If you’ve been following me on Instagram you’d know I’ve been making progress despite my work, gym, and study schedule. I finally painted for seven hours straight last Saturday and another three hours on Sunday to get them to “done”. It is unlikely I will paint that hard again for a long time. Loyal readers will remember me painting until the wee hours and updating this blog before 40K tournaments.

Posting from a  New Laptop

Another thing that finally happened this year is I got a new laptop, two new laptops if you count the one work assigned me in case we all have to work from home. I was looking at docks that support Thunderbolt or at least USB-C just today. The reason this was important is it took a long time to transfer all my date to my new MacBook Air and that held up my painting as did reading 100s of pages about Python and Finance. My laptop is nice, but switching form self hosted to WordPress.com is confusing me a bit.

Goblin Skin

Painting Goblin Skin

The goblin skin may have been completely painted by January 27th. They were largely done the same as the previous two batches. I start with black primer and build up to a paint called “Moth Green” made by Reaper. That is my new recipe and new brightest green. If you want even brighter greenskins you can highlight up to yellow or I guess even white or you can apply several glazes of green. If you like paler greenskins you can use colors similar to GW’s old “Rotting Flesh” or Vallejo makes a color called “Green Grey” which I actually used on the squigs too. I’ve also been given a bunch of Reaper skintones including “Moldy Skin” which is a pale greenish color.

Painting Black Fabric

My black recipe is also not top secret. I use the Foundry Charcoal Black triad. I may need to replace it soon, but it along with a black wash is good enough. You can of course go to a lighter grey and I do that sometimes using Citadel and Vallejo paint to highlight the edges further.

Painting Purple

My purple recipe has changed over the years, I use a Foundry Triad for that too, but I also think it benefits a lot from a thin purple wash. I can also go brighter if I feel like it. These models took a long time so I didn’t want to spend more time on their robes than I had to. The Contrast Purple is pretty good and I actually used it for my squig eyes. One thing to remember about the Foundry Triads is you don’t have to go A, B, C. You can start with the midtone then just do a wash, of go midtone then shade or midtone then highlight. I used to have different orders I used for different triads. Going A, B, C is safe to start with but usually you need a second coat of B or C to get the best results after a wash.

Purple Fabric

Top Secret Squig Recipe

The key to getting good flavour out of a squig, I mean color is lots of thin coats. I have three squigs in my Warcry gang. Actually because I’ve never played I tried to get the greatest variety of models in my gang so I have one squig, one squig hopper, and Boingrot Bounder. The paint I used on all three is called Aethermatic Blue. I painted over Wraithbone most of the time. As you may recall I primed my goblins black, this meant the squigs got primed black too, well the ones with riders did. If I had to do it all over again, I’d paint the Boingrot Bounder in pieces, that is what the experts will do.

If you’re not an expert and you’re just trying to get your models “battle ready” you have to decide what is more import, easier black robes or brightly coloured squigs. If you want your cake and to eat it too, you can do what I did and hand paint two coats of Wraithbone then two coats of Aehtermatic Blue then a bunch of thinned washes both blue and green along with the aforementioned strange Vallejo highlight colors including my latest discovery “Light Green Blue” which is darker than “Green Grey”.

WIP Squigs

Painting Teeth and Bones

Apparently another of my specialties is painting bones. You’re in luck the new Contrast Paint, Skeleton Horde works great over Wraithbone. I used it on skulls and horns and it is fine for goblin teeth. But if you want your squig mouths to be red too, you need to paint the red between the teeth either with paint or a wash or even Contrast Paint. GW seems to think you should use them as a base coat but you can use them as a wash or a glaze, remember GW recommends not thinning them with water so I generally use them at full strength but you can thin them with something else. Although Skeleton Horde is a winner, you can still highlight with a beige or bone color, I have several from GW and Vallejo. You can also do a thin red or even red and black wash if you want a more unique look. Highlighting with pure white was also done especially on teeth for these models.

Metallics and Other Details

I used mostly GW metallic paint, some very old pots, but many of my oldest paints had to be junked out. The era of GW paint with either the flip or twist bolter lids is the worst. Every single pot I had from that era dried out while my paints were in storage whereas some of my Ork VS Eldar paint set still works though I wonder how many pots are left from then, I still see my original Hawk Turquoise paint pot among my current collection but I can’t recall using it since I moved to Calgary. For metallics I recommend a wash, you can use black, brown, sepia, even multiple washes. I still use my “Rust Brown Ink” that is almost as old as my Ork Vs Eldar paint set paints. I think my “Waaargh Green Ink” is older and I definitely used it on the squigs if not the goblins. I need a new leather brown paint and likely a few other midtones they seem to run out first with the lightest colors lasting the longest because I paint a lot of dark evil models. White and black also dry out quickly and need regular replacing.

Remember no matter what you’re painting the same basic principles hold, multiple thin coats and thin washes being better than drowning your model in the latest greatest wonder wash. In fact now on YouTube there are many tutorials where you can see people wet blending and using lots of glazes, these advanced techniques aren’t that hard and I used them plenty on previous models.

Secret Squig Skin Recipe Number Three

Although I used Wraithbone and Aethermatic Blue for two squigs, for the third squig I painted it grey, I think a Foundation grey, those are paints that also dry out easily. I then put highlights on the grey then over the highlights two heavy washes of Contrast Paint. Then I built up the highlights using various grey, blue, green colors and of course thin washes. I think it came out pretty good, but it is not my best work.


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OMG #Warmongers I painted for about seven hours Saturday and then maybe three more hours Sunday that wasn’t healthy. This was all to get my #Warcry gang of #gloomspitegitz but honestly it is mostly #NightGoblins I got the #goblins in the #warhammerfantasybattle 4th Edition boxset and I’ve slowly been painting them since the 90s. If I had to do it all over I wouldn’t have a horde army and of course I’d force myself to lower my #painting standards even further. I bought the box of new #squighoppers as I wanted a Boingrot Bounder in my gang and that was a frustrating #model to assemble and paint. I even did freehand on the mask/helmet. This guy is more #oldschool or #oldhammer he has #freehand #purpleflames on his hat but the star of the show is the #squig face. It isn’t my best work but I spent extra time on it and used likely a unique combination of paints. This model was #primedblack which is fin for the goblin but not for #contrastpaint which I used on all three of my squigs. The color I chose was #aethermaticblue which I used over #wraithbone on the other models but for this model I painted a #grey #foundationpaint on to the black then highlighted the grey using #citedelpaints and #vallejo paints. After 2-3 highlights I put two coats of Aethermatic Blue over the grey. Then I used more green greys to highlight the face and thin blue and green washes to shade and glaze. I also spent time on the teeth, eventually I had to say “Enough” though I ended up highlighting the nose and doing some #blacklining in the mouth. I made the back of this model cooler as well and painted the warts with terracotta, orange and I believe some yellow glaze. All that remains is to base them. #PaintingWarhammer #Wargaming #GamesWorkshop #MiniatureMonday #MiniPainting #GW #eavymetal

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Basing Goblins

These goblins are based the same way the last 50 plus were. I used a brown called “Terra Cotta” two words made by Delta Ceramcoat and I used two coats. Then I used all kinds of different basing materials that I acquired and thought might work for an Autumnal scheme, which should be fine for Warcry and Gloomspite Gitz they have desserts in the Age of Sigmar somewhere. I liked the “dead grass” that Citadel made but I also used basing material from Galeforce Nine, Woodland Scenics and others.

Night Goblins with Autumnal Bases

New Lamp

While painting for hours and hours I decided that although I had three lights on my desk I needed more light. So experts online recommend a natural LED based light so I got one on Amazon and it is soon to be famous if you have a shelve above your desk like me. I haven’t gotten to paint by it yet, it literally just arrived, but I think it will be a winner. It is powered by USB hence why I need a USB hub or dock on my desk real soon now.

Witness my new LED desk lamp

What Will I Paint Next?

Nurglings, Bill doesn’t understand it but they are legal in Warcry now and I think they are good models for testing paint combinations. I also have long schemed of a horde of Nurglings, others can have their hordes of cultists or plague zombies, I want a horde of Nurglings obstructing any clever tactic my opponent comes up with. I’ll also be painting one of my original Escher gangers Wraithbone and trying the Contrast Skin color out, they are still primed Smelly Primer from the 90s. I don’t know what I’ll put in my gang, but it will be an Escher gang and have some vintage conversions and of course it’ll be purple and green.

If you have painting advice or questions or you’re an Internet Expert in Warcry or Necromunda you can try to leave a comment below.

Nurgling Contrast

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out…

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out. And although I don’t need them for Warcry and Bill thinks I’m crazy to want to paint more Nurglings, I thought they’d make a great test model for the new style of GW painting. To keep Bill happy and because I actually eventually want to play something, I built all the goblins and squigs I needed for my proposed gang. I even opened a blister I’ve had since the 90s, not sure if it counts as Oldhammer.Old Night Goblin Squig Hearder Blister

Also on my miniature painting table are apparently 30 year old Gretchin because again I have them and thought they’d make a good model to test out new and old paints. I have a lot of old paint that has dried out after years in storage. I also have some black primered metal Nurglings as I’ve long had a dream of a Nurgling heavy 40K army. I was at first going to do 30 stands, then I downsized to 15, but now I’ve decided to go for 27, three squads of nine. As mentioned, Bill thinks I’m crazy.Miniatures being cleaned and assembled

It should go without saying that you need a light undercoat/basecoat to use the Contrast Paints. I chose Wraithbone after reading and watching tutorials online. I also tried some over a darker grey primer from Krylon. It doesn’t work as well, though some swear by a medium grey primer. I’m not sure the Diseased Sons will be converted over to using Contrast Paints, but I’d like to try it on a larger model. I’ve long maintained I don’t want to paint better, I want to paint more efficiently. Of course I just spent hours painting a single stand of Nurglings.

I also painted part of two squigs and worked on more Nurglings. First if you are going for speed, don’t paint your Nurgling stand in pieces. I do think if you basecoat everything at least then assemble it’ll look better, but if speed is your goal, glue then prime. Also don’t paint every Nurgling a unique color. I’ve done a whole stand the same color before, even dry brushed them and it doesn’t look as good as having multiple coloured Nurglings. You can of course choose only two or three colors. You can add further variety by using various washes. That is what I did.

I used every Contrast Paint I had as a skin tone except Skeleton Horde which I saved for the horns. I used a variety of washes, glazes, and inks. I did not use Army Painter Strong Tone something I bought on Bill’s recommendation. Sometimes I used multiple coats of Contrast Paint, sometimes I did not. I even painted some Nurglings regular old GW colors like Camo. I also used Vallejo, Reaper and Foundry paints. In fact for the back row of green Nurlings I did several ever lighter custom blended dry brushes, then of course more washes and Contrast Paints. I also sometimes painted directly in the folds, rather than covering all the skin.

For the Nurglings and the Squigs I touched up things like teeth, horns, eyes, and guts with Wraithbone, sometimes more than once. For the Nurglings I could afford to be a bit sloppy and I did some blood and guts spilling out with reds, but I also used the new Nurgle Technical Paint. I will have to try a “dry” paint. I poopooed them, but honestly I have so many unpainted models. I’m not above dry brushing, especially Nurglings.Almost finished Nurglings painted with Contrast Paints

Although I did take many photos and consulted Bill, I didn’t write down every paint I used on every Nurgling. It will be hard to duplicate any particular one, but the official Nurgle tutorials online are pretty good. I think for my next stand I’ll only use the green contrast paints, maybe skeleton horde on some skin. Then I’d use a variety of washes and inks, obvious colors like greens and browns. I didn’t use any Devlan Mud on these ones, I prefer to carefully apply my washes and inks, rather than the bath technique. I’d do what I did before and dry brush on highlights, then paint the details in Wraithbone again.

That should speed up the process some.

Some people online seem to prime grey then dry brush white then apply Contrast Paints. Others seem to prime black, then paint on grey, rather than counting on say the Wraithbone spray can to stick to bare plastics. You can definitely apply Contrast Paints over light grey paint, I never tried it over pure white except for one squigs eyes.Squig painted with Contrast Paints

It has been cold in Calgary lately and I have a bit of a cold, but it is #MiniatureMonday so I will try to get this post published. If you have questions you can leave them below. Sorry the photos are not the best, the lighting is not the best in my living room, which is why I have so many lights attached to my desk. I might buy or set up a photobooth someday, but for now quick iPhone snaps will have to do. I’m not trying to be #Instafamous.

Here Be Goblins

After a bout of Norovirus or something close I did the final few touchups and details on my latest batch of monopose Goblin spearmen straight outta the Warhammer 4th Edition boxset…

After a bout of Norovirus I did the final few touchups and details on my latest batch of monopose Goblin spearmen straight outta the Warhammer 4th Edition boxset. I had previously painted the command complete with the army standard bearer as I truly have been working on this army since 4th Edition. The one goblin with a shield was example for other people to help me basecoat. The second batch has purple booties which does look better but after the front row can you see their boots?

No what you see in these big blocks of infantry is heads and weapons so going forward that is where I will put my effort. I will also have to find the shields. I know I counted out out 63 and put them in a pill bottle. I also know I used some other small round Warhammer shields likely Dark Elves and Skaven maybe even some Dwarven ones. I better not have lost that pill bottle, I’m feeling all paranoid now, but it must be in with my models and paints but I don’t recall seeing it when I went through the boxes at my mom’s house or here when I sorted out things so I could paint, but I wasn’t looking for it.

In the olden days you could have goblins without shields but now I think you get either a shield and a spear or a shield and a hand weapon or a bow plus a knife. I do have some later multi-pose plastic goblins as I was going to do a unit without bows or spears but you get so burnt out painting these models. I just watch two GW instructional videos, they didn’t have those back in 4th Edition, and the painting standard to be “Battle Ready” has gone way down, one coat and a wash or the new Contrast method which is one thick coat. It does seem to work for some colours and models, but it doesn’t look as good.

I’ve long maintained I don’t want to paint better, I want to paint more efficiently. That said I also think skirmish scale games are more realistic for the average tabletop gamer and then you can personalize your models as they are really seen from all sides. In these big blocks of infantry only the front models really are noticed, maybe the second rank, I think when I did the archers I gradually painted less highlights on the models as they got deeper into the unit. I also magnetized the one unit I based which is even more work. I just don’t care enough about playing Warhammer to paint 50+ more goblins plus do all the bases and whatever else I’m missing to play. There is a “Legends” list now so my Doom Divers have a use but I think I need a second catapult, plus some crew for my war machines. I think that is one of the purposes of the box of plastic goblins I bought.

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On the left is a member of the first batch of #goblins I #painted over two weeks ago. On the right is a representative of the second batch. I’m not sure which is better. I’m chucking out a lot of paint after it sat unused for almost a decade. The bolter top lid #GW paints dry out the fastest. The #FoundationPaints also separate and dry out quickly. I still have a few pots of usable (barely) #citadelpaints from the first paint set I got #OrksVSEldar The #greens #purples #browns even the #greys are slightly different. The second batch got purple booties with fur trim which does look better but when all ranked up all you see is heads and weapons. Next batch which will not be for a long while, I’m sick of #monopose goblins, will have considerably less effort put into them. All the GW colors I bought for this project have dried out so a lot of #wargamesfoundry paints which is supposedly the original GW recipe were used. The charcoal black 34C is starting to thicken, it is basically the same color as Adeptus Battlegrey. I paint out of the pot a lot, I’m old school but I can use a #wetpalette I even bought 3 #contrastpaints to try out. Now for even more #gratuitoushashtagspam #PaintingWarhammer #Warhammer #Wargaming #Warmongers #GamesWorkshop #MiniatureMonday #MiniPainting #ModelPainting #CoolMinis #EavyMetal #TableTopGaming

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What’s Next?

Realistically I’m not sure. Christmas is coming and although I plan to paint Sundays and Tuesdays and to use the hashtag #MiniatureMonday I am flying to my mother’s house on the 21st. My plan was to paint some Nurglings and whatever else is partially painted when I finally gave up and put my life in storage. The plan beyond that is a couple more goblins likely squig hoppers and whatever the armoured squig hoppers are called plus maybe some regularly squigs. I think my proposed gang had one of each so that is three models.

I also want to do more Nurglings, some using the new contrast paints so I will probably buy some more of those plus the magical basecoat “wraithbone”. In fact an army with 30 Nurgling stands was a long held dream. Bill thinks I’m crazy and anyway I only need 27 under the latest rules. There are 9 stands in my display case, one more that I painted at GW Highgate and then I think there must be six stands on square bases and two more stands still on spures, that’s right most of my Nurglings are metal. The really old ones are glued to a rhino. I wish I had more of those and my Snotlings from that era disappeared none of my old gaming group seems to have volunteered having them, it is a mystery.

I never even wanted to play Warcry I just agreed to do it because I have so many goblins they must be good for something. The game I wanted to play was Killteam so I could use my Nurgle Renegades err Death Guard and CSM. I have almost all the old options painted. My second choice was Necromunda and now miracle of miracles Bill and one more person are apparently “in”. I will play Escher because that is what I played in the olden days. My gang was converted, primed and a tiny bit of black, purple, and green had been applied. That is right the color scheme for my Escher gang is the same as my goblins and every army, even my Skaven Bloodbowl team is purple and green.

I won’t even try to match the purple and green from those days. I’ll probably just go with whatever is in my paint rack today and still flows. I’ll have to test my wet palette soon. Overall, I have my paints pretty well ordered. I still haven’t tested reds or oranges or blues or all the metallics but most of the colours I need for my purple, green, and black models is functioning. My Charcoal Black Triad needs thinning at least the highlight does but honestly the other secret is Badab Black or some other wash. I don’t have GW’s latest black wash but I have their older ones.

That is one good thing about Nurgle colours don’t have to match perfectly in fact I try to paint all my Plaguebearers differently. Now that I’ve got 40+ painted Plaguebearers I have moved on to Nurglings. Eventually I hope to do some of the new models, but the next models I buy will either be bits for my Necromunda Gang once I read the rules and do an inventory of all the bits I have or I will buy more Nurglings and try to do them mostly with contrast paints.reinforcements

That virus did a number on my abdomen. I think I’m about out of energy for the day. I never said I would blog every week. If I can get in a couple hours of painting a week that is good enough. I still have a lot to do behind the scenes on this blog like clean up the sidebar but if you have thoughts on painting goblins or purple or black or green you can leave them below.