Cool Looking Chaos Sorcerer

I give you my latest masterpiece or at least the latest model I had to paint in less than a week so I could use it in the next game of the Mighty Empires campaign at Strategies.  This model will actually represent a Herald of Tzeentch for which GW has not released a model.  I had this Chaos Sorcerer in my spare minis box.  I bought it in 1994 or 1995 to be an ally to my Orks and Goblins.  In the olden days you could take 25% allies in both Warhammer and Warhammer Fantasy Battle.  This lead to some unbalanced armies but it was a fun way to try stuff out.  I got my entire chaos miniature collection as a result of buying some models to use as allies to my orks…

Finished Fur
Finished Fur

I also have a few old Dark Elves which look considerable different than the current excellent models, but those will stay unpainted for a few more years or decades.

This model got lavished a lot of care and custom blends and colours.  It also made use of thinned washes and glazes, both official off the shelf ones and my own one of kind mixtures of water and ink.  I also made use of highlights, lowlights, edge highlighting, even dry brushing.  I was forced to paint the base out of turn as too much Vallejo Beige burped out of my tube and on to my Wet Palette.

Browns I drybrushed on to fur
Browns I drybrushed on to fur

His two companions are even a lower priority and will be finished at a more leisurely pace.  With all the time I’ve been spending on test models and Warhammer Fantasy Battle models I’m going to be really sweating the next 10 days or so to get my final five miniatures finished for my Astronomi-con Vancouver army.  I’ve pretty much given up on even attempting a new Greater Daemon.  George will just have to get dusted off.

The sorcerer got all the extra effort because I thought it would look cool and I wanted to do something different than the Nurgle and Khorne models I’d been painting or even Goblins and WW1 models, something a little flashier.  I even managed to make his grey robe look really cool by using a lot of layers, painting on extra folds, and the last trick was painting in low lights with black or a really dark grey in some parts.

Almost Finished Sorcerer
Almost Finished Sorcerer

The green armour involved going from the darkest green in my collection to a custom blended almost sea foam looking colour made from Emerald Green and Green Grey as detailed previously.

I actually drybrushed the fur.  I first wetbrushed on Beastial Brown, two coats.  Then I used Badaab Black wash in the darkest recesses and Devlan Mud over much of the fir.  This left it a bit too shiny, but several drybrushes later it was mostly gone.  I did a drybrush of Snakebite Leather, then Bubonic Brown, then I mixed up a vaguely orange colour using the Foundation Orange, Tau Sept Ocher, and Beige.  I took a photo of some of the individual colours.

Next I painted the finicky details, but first I had to fix a tiny bit of the grey robe, where my drybrushing wasn’t perfect.  The two pouches used some of the Reaper Master Series paints I bought.  I eventually mixed in some Vallejo Beige to that and slowly built up to almost pure beige.  I also used my favourite GW Wash Gryphonne Sepia.  I also used it on the scroll.  The scroll started out as the Foundation Yellow, mixed in Beige with that to highlight it.  I also used an old Yellow Glaze to age it, a technique I rarely use, but an effective one.  I think I mixed some white in with the beige to do the final highlight, plus maybe more yellow glaze.

With those details out of the way I planned to paint the sword and go to bed.  Alas I splurted out way to much Beige on my Wet Palette.  The bottle was gummed up some and squeezing it more is less effective then poking a hole in it.  With all the beige I had to do all the skulls on the three models I was working on.  The Bloodletter didn’t need much beige, but the Bezerker and this guy used a lot.  I put several coats on, right over the black.  This is not the most effective technique, I prefer to paint the skulls brown first, generally Snakebite Leather.

Models at the end of the day's painting
Models at the end of the day's painting

After getting them pretty beige, it was time for a custom wash made from water, Rust Brown Ink, and Plasma Red Ink.  After that more beige and eventually I dry brushed on some white.  This wasn’t terribly effective and I painted white highlights on the Bezerker’s skulls.  The skulls on the old OOP plastic bezerker lack a little detail so I painted extra on them, using lowlights of wash, black paint, even Badaab Black wash in some parts.  I also used the Yellow Glaze technique on the skulls on the bezerker.  I actually was able to get them looking pretty sharpe.

The skull base was also giving me problems, the paint kept rubbing off on the edges, plus I had to paint under the model, and darken in between the skulls, while simultaneously trying to lighten them.  I eventually painted the eyeballs red.  I used Badaab Black wash at the end to darken between the skulls, which necessitated more beige highlights and another go at drybrushing white.  I realized I needed a new pot of Skull White, so the skulls are mostly beige.

Blade layered with blue paints
Blade layered with blue paints

With that complete it was so bedtime.  I painted fairly late into the night.  The next morning I didn’t get up that early, but I did get up, photograph the sorcerer, and even cleaned his blade up a bit and gave it a fresh coat of black.  I also got out a fresh sheet of parchment for my P3 Wet Palette.  The first colour I painted the blade was an old Deadly Nightshade.  I have all these old blues that I’ve acquired but rarely use.  So whenever I do paint blue I usually end up with a custom unique shade.  I also bought that extreme blue the day before which I planned to try out.

I slowly blended various blues together and painted on edge highlights until I got almost to pure Vallejo Sky Blue.  It might be Deep Sky Blue, I’m away from my paints right now so I can’t check.  At this stage I mixed up some old GW Blue Wash with a bunch of water to make kinda a DIY glaze.  After that dried I took a better picture.  I then painted on more highlights, but I also painted in some low lights or a reverse gradient back towards the Deadly Nightshade, the wet palette allowed me to do this pretty easily and I had a brand new 8/0 brush I got at Deserres at some point which was the bees knees.

After first thin blue wash/glaze
After first thin blue wash/glaze

Then it was only a matter of trying to get the best effect I could, using my blues, my glaze, and eventually mixing in a little white to the sky blue.  I also added more highlights to the back of the blade and again painted on details that weren’t necessarily there.  It wasn’t my best magical sword, but it had to do I’ve spent too much time on these models.  I got the next three models in my queue and I’ll slowly finish the fine details on the Bloodletter and Bezerker.

More
More high and low lights on blade

Today is a nice day, I biked and got two more ‘0’ brushes from Deserres.  I also got some Skull White paint from Strategies.  I even had a phone conversation with someone who could be my future boss.  Tonight I will paint some more and Saturday too, but I also will keep applying to jobs, I seem to have found a number I’m a good fit for, so perhaps I soon will no longer be unemployed and updates to this blog will be a little less frequent and lot less lengthy.
Chaos Sorcerer

Painting Queue
Painting Queue
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Glowing Green Paint Effect

So I’d always planned on doing the Bloodletter’s sword green and the armour of the sorcerer green, so I once again cooked up a one of kind or in this case a two of a kind colour that looks like it glows.  The key to the glowing effect is to go very bright/light with the highlights and start very dark with the lowlights.  Washes and glazes are also essential to my technique.  I’m not sure I can make it work with any colour but it works with green and blue, I generally use it on power weapons or magic weapons.  Purple can work too, but you have to highlight up to pink and that scares some people.

Bloodletter with Green Hellblade
Bloodletter with Green Hellblade

To get the effect seen here I had a black base coat.  I then painted Orkhide Shade over it.  The new GW Foundation darkest green.  Then I really needed an inbetween shade, but I didn’t have one so I mixed Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Game Colour Sick Green.  Then I think I did a pure Sick Green highlight, I can’t remember exactly it was yesterday.  To keep the colour dark and scary I mixed up a wash of about 5 parts water, 2 parts old GW Green Wash, and 1 part Black Ink.  Basically a much darker green wash, but still thinned so it would flow into the recesses.

After that dried I got out Sick Green again and starting working up the highlights.  I didn’t really have a good inbetween shade, so I mixed in an old GW Jade Green.  With the mixed colour and then pure Jade Green painted on as a highlight I then did a second wash.  This time a thinned down Waaagh Green Ink which is an extremely old GW/Citadel product.  When that was dry I started highlighting Jade Green again, but I also wanted to darken a few spots so I used the new GW Green Wash just in a few spots.

Sorcerer with green armour
Sorcerer with green armour

Then more Jade Green and the first green glaze.  GW used to make them, they were under appreciated by their clientele I wish I had them all, but I only have a few, they have red lids.  Vallejo makes some glazes, I saw them at Imperial Hobbies today.  After some Jade Green and green glaze I wanted to go more extreme so I got out this bottle of Green Grey Vallejo Model Colour #971.  I mixed this with the Jade Green on my P3 Wet Palette.  I then painted this pale highlight on.  Then another green glaze then an even paler extreme highlight was done and it was off to my bedroom to take the photos.

As I mentioned I went to Imperial Hobbies today and bought some more paint and a couple of brushes.  The brushes were disappointing but they were cheap.  Tomorrow I will go and buy some Deserres brushes that I’ve gotten used to, they hold their point pretty good and come in all sorts of sizes.  I also bought some very bright or light colours which I’ll use on the Tzeentch and Slaneesh models I seem to be doing up, but mainly they are for the future.  The Mr. Color Steel and the Flat Green will get used sooner, as might the Sky Grey.

The Gale Force 9 flock I bought the day before to use on the Goblins and other bases going forward.  I’m trying to use a variety of material, instead of just sand all the time.

More Hobby Supplies
More Hobby Supplies

3 WIP Chaos Models

Today I’ve done a lot of painting, I got up early and I kept at it for most of the day. I’m working on three different chaos models. The first is my second test bezerker, the second is an old OOP Bloodletter which I’m painting up to be a generic lesser daemon, but mainly I’m practicing my dark purple skin tone technique, the final model is another old chaos model, this one is still in print, non-the-less mine is lead and will serve as a Herald of Tzeentch come Sunday at Strategies.

Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker
Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker

What I really should be working on is my Astronomi-con Vancouver army, but their is a method to my madness. The Khorne Bezerker is serving as a test model for my Forgeworld Khorne Terminator Lord conversion. The Bloodletter is a test model for a bigger daemon. Even the sorcerer could be argued that it is a test model, as I need to get that flashy look for my Slaneesh Sorcerer I’ll take to the tournament.

Well with all the time I put in, I could have put in even more, and none of the models are finished. I had hoped to start on three other models today, but tomorrow will do. I did a lot of work on the Bezerker’s red armour, the Bloodletter’s purple skin, and the sorcerer’s grey robe.

The model I’ve done the least on since the last blog post is the Bezerker.  I finished the purple flames using the Foundry Royal Purple Triad pretty much as they intended.  I’ve been having brush troubles today.  Several brushes were retired and I couldn’t find a good ‘0’ or ’00’.  I’ve been focusing on speed and buying and using bigger brushes, that now when I want to paint flames or fine highlights my tools are letting me down.  Tomorrow I will invest in some new brushes.  I’m tempted to go to Imperial Hobbies because a few gabs have appeared in my paint collection.  Specifically I need a green between Orkhide Shade and say VMC Sick Green.  I ended up making one…

Building up Purple and Grey Highlights
Building up Purple and Grey Highlights

So the greens on the Bezerker are for his seems or tubes or whatever.  I painted them Orkhide Shade then tried to go right to Sick Green but it ended up looking way too Christmas tree-ish.  I then mixed a darker green for the other models.  I also had troubles getting the green in the tiny gaps without damaging my red or grey highlights.  The other thing I did on the Bezerker was it’s ‘silver’ metallic stuff.  I didn’t use silver, but rather GW’s Chainmail.  This was way too shiny, so another dark gunmetal colour would be nice too.  I can darken Chainmail with Badaab Black and Devlan Mud wash but there is always a risk of spillage or seepage, so I think I’d prefer an even simpler metal.  I have Boltgun Metal but I think something even darker than that would find many uses in my painting.

Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze
Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze

The Bloodletter got his skin finished off.  It came out pretty well, but eventually I just had to say enough because I have bigger models to work on and I need to get them done within two weeks.  Thankfully I’m unemployed… The skin was painted GW’s Liche Purple twice.  I let black come through, I missed painting a little bit of stuff on one shoulder, I thought it was a necklace but it was his collar bone.  After that I think I did the first part of Foundry’s Royal Purple Triad, but perhaps before that a custom dark purple wash.  Then I worked up the Royal Purple Triad followed by a thinned old purple wash.  Then it was basically Royal Purple Triad Highlight along with some glazes.  I might go slightly pinker maybe to Warlock Purple on the big fella, we’ll see how it looks and how much time it takes.

I also did some striations.  Yet another place where I needed a good sharp point. I actually have some really tiny brushes, but I need zeros and double zeros too.

An extremely highlighted grey robe
An extremely highlighted grey robe

The Sorcerer got a pretty surreal grey robe.  I didn’t use that many different greys, basically just GW ones, two Foundation ones, and one regular one.  In fact I chucked out a light grey, which doing some infantory I think I need four colours and I’m going to try non-GW ones, preferably in the dropper style bottles.  Sometimes they come out too much, but generally they are pretty easy to work with, for super common colours I like the flip tops like black and white or metallics which I keep out of my P3 Wet Palette.

The robe got a wash of Badaab Black but that didn’t go as well as I would like so future washes were custom made by me out of old Black GW Wash.  I did two, one thinned and one really thinned.  I also built up the highlights to Astronomicon Grey, but then I went even higher mixing in some white.  I also painted in lowlights.  This was partly to get rid of unwanted shine, but mainly as it looked good.  I got the aforementioned thin brush and painted black lines into folds.  I also painted on more folds than were sculpted using various greys.  This is a technique I use on skin too, such as the striations.

Building up Green highlights
Building up Green highlights

After I was satisfied with the robe I touched up the black and waited until the Bezerker was ready to do green.  I wanted a different green, working towards an old pot of GW Jade Green, possibly going even brighter.  I started off with Orkhide Shade, leaving some black showing on all three models.  Then I did a mix of Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Model Colour Sick Green.  Finally pure Sick Green was applied then a custom wash made from an old GW Ork Flesh Wash mixed with a tad of Shadow Black Ink.

Then I deemed them good enough for tonight and tomorrow I will finish them mostly and try harder to find a job.  I might go out tomorrow night, so I don’t think I’ll put in as many hours painting, but I’m in the home stretch for all three models, so it will be time to work on three different Chaos Space Marines.

2 Servants of Khorne

And a Chaos Sorcerer are what I’ve been working on lately.  I got up early and started painting around 9:30 AM.  It is almost like I have a job, alas unlike some people I’m not a mercenary painter, I’m spending all this time on these three seemingly random figures because I have it.  Soon like this afternoon, I’ll add three more models to my paint queue.  These are the last three rank and file models I need to finish for my Astronomi-con Vancouver army.

The Bezerker and the dark purple Bloodletter are test figures for the paint scheme I plan to do two of my HQ choices.  The highlights are very subtle on the Bloodletter, it was two layers of Liche Purple leaving some black showing, then a custom purple and black wash, not the current GW ones.  Then the first true highlight of Foundry Royal Purple Shade.  I’m also using my Liche Purple to Royal Purple Triad progression on the flames on the bezerker.

After all the work I did on the red armour, the rest of the model doesn’t need to be fancy, after all it is just a test model, I don’t even need it finished, I just need to get the red, black, purple, and skull scheme I came up with down.  The brass and other metallics are pretty easy and the tubing will be dark green.

3 WIP Chaos Models
3 WIP Chaos Models

For the daemon I really need to do a good job on the flesh, see if my technique of really thinned down subtle highlights is feasible.  I plan to use another thin purple wash at some point.  I also plan to try something different with his horns and claws.  His big honkin’ sword will be a cool green, likely based around Jade Green.

The Chaos Sorcerer I’ve had since 1994 or so.  I bought it as an ally for my Orks and Goblins army.  My entire chaos miniature collection, which is now three armies strong, started as allies to my Orks in Fantasy and 40K.  I really like painting grey, I find it easy.  I used Adeptus Battle Grey as the base coat, leaving some black showing.  Then I did a wash of Badaab Black which left the shadows shiny.  This will not do I did some more greys, most recently damn, I’m not at home, some medium GW Grey, I used all in-print paints for a change.  I plan to do another highlight of that colour.  I also made my own thinned black wash which yielded me better results IMHO.

Painting fabric is way easier than painting power armour or flesh. You can see why Skaven are so popular.  I even have a crazy plan to use thinned glazes to add a shimmer to the grey robe.  I may not do this, as it looks pretty good as is.  I used a size one brush and painted with the folds, I also added even more stirations where I thought the fabric would fold further.  The armour will be kinda a mystical jade green, maybe the same as the Bloodletter’s sword.  The fur I’m tempted to try and do like tiger or leopard print, but I might just do brown.  His blade will get a ghostly blue power weapon look.  I do a good job of painting blue power weapons, his blade is probably magical anyway.

I also learned I have to prepare for the Battle Royal as detailed on page 406 of the big red book.  I don’t really think I can make any clever changes to my Daemon army.  Getting the sorcerer done who will serve as a Herald of Tzeentch, who I dubbed BibbltyBobbltyBoo, is the only square based model I’ll be painting for a while.  My Nurgle Daemon army is supposed to be tough, but the fact I’m towards the bottom might see less badness coming my way early on.  The Beasts of Nurgle will get a lot of opportunity to prove their worth.

Beasts Of Nurgle

Completing a custom cork base

Test Fit Steed
Test Fit Steed

Welcome back intrepid readers to another post on working with miniatures completely devoid of stylish purple text. After letting the glue dry on the multi-part OOP Daemon models and more importantly between the cork tile and the plastic GW cavalry base, it was time to finish off the base and securely mount the model.

The first thing I did was test fit the model and I got out a sharpie and traced roughly where the feet would go.  Then I looked in my toolbox for two part resin epoxy.  Finding none I decided rather than bike to Canadian Tire I would just use super glue to pin the model to the base.

Perhaps if the model was plastic this wouldn’t be necessary, but as this model was multi-part metal and was to serve as a Herald of Slaneesh in a Chaos Daemon Warhammer army, pinning the model to the base would be the wisest course of action.  I got out a piece of metal rod that I got in a whole bag from a hobby or craft store.  I got about dozen two feet long pieces in 1994 and I think I’m on the second one.  I estimated how long of a piece I need then got out heavier-dutier snips and voila a short ‘pin’.  I made sure it was long enough to go through the cork and the plastic by comparing it to the thickness of the base.

Measuring the pin
Measuring the pin

Next I used the pin vise to carefully drill into the rear foot of the Slaneesh Daemon.  I didn’t want to drill through the foot, which wasn’t exactly thick.  After a few minutes of patient twisting I had a hole of sufficient size.  I then used super glue to fix the metal pin to the model.  Then I place the model over the cork base and figured out approximately where I’d need to drill a hole in it.  Go slow with your drilling and this time you do want to go all the way through.

Glue the pin into the model
Glue the pin into the model

Using a judicious amount of super glue on the pin and both feet of the model I fixed the model firmly to the cork flooring material.  Then it was time for some more test fitting, I even decided the model deserved a head.  It also deserved ‘scenic scatter’ basically little bits and bobs to make the base unique.  I tried one of the big resin skulls, but in the end didn’t like it and went with a piece of an old 2nd Edition 40K box set Goff and another 28mm Black Cat Bases skull.

Drill through the base
Drill through the base

After they were secured to the model using Weldbond, it was time to thin some white glue and put it strategically on the base to secure beach sand.  This needs drying time, several hours, but when that has past shake off the excess glue and seal the entire cork and sand base with another layer of thinned down white glue.  This is apparently important.

Scenic ScatterThis was my first time using cork to fancy up a miniature base.  It wasn’t hard at all.  Remember to go slow, use solid basic techniques, measure twice, cut once, and when in doubt pin the model.

These Slaneesh Daemons are not a high priority in my painting queue, in fact I have to make some custom movement trays again and do yet more basing, this time 54 Night Goblins.  Oh boy! Eventually they will be primed grey as discussed previously, but first I may use a little green stuff to fill gaps in the multi-part metal model.  I’ll leave the ride unmounted until most of the way through the paint job.

Another test fit
Another test fit
Finish Base with Beach Sand
Finish Base with Beach Sand

Finishing Up Old Models

So having finished off two terrain tiles, I cleaned up my painting area pretty good, put away most of the materials and bits that were littering the floor and set about getting some models finished an off my painting table.  The first batch I decided to finished were mostly already painted.  The batch consisted of some new Nurgle demons that I’d been painting on the side and experimenting on, also added to the queue was an old plastic goblin spearman.  This model had a bent spear and hadn’t been seen for years having gotten stuck to some foam.  I fixed the spear and gave the model an average actually better than average paintjob, plus affixed a shield to him. Touching up and finishing miniatures

The two models I finished first were too old mid 90s Diseased Sons character models.  Both were converted to have jump packs, one an old Ork jump pack and the other a converted metal loyalist jump pack.  Back in the day during 1st and 2nd edition jump pack characters were all the rage.  They usually had conversion or possibly even displacer fields which made them tough to kill.  Now-a-days models seem to go about in rhinos and land raiders as it is safer and the models are cheaper and readily available.

Old plastic Goblin SpearmanThe one with no helmet is Oderous the Unclean he was the lord/leader in the early days of the Diseased Sons.  The other model which is in Crusader Armor was usually used as a lieutenant, sometimes both would be in an army list.  He only has a chainsword whereas Oderous usually used a Plague Sword or sometimes a Deamon Weapon when I went a bit over the top.

These models were considered pretty damn well painted back in 96 or 97.  I learned that once sealed you can’t use washes much on old minis so when I update one, I generally just add highlights or paint in lowlights.  These models got the tiny line treatment and because they have sentimental value and I wasn’t in a hurry I touched up and improved a lot of things about the models, from Oderous’s face to the leather bits.  This is the best these models have ever looked. Old Diseased Sons HQ

I still don’t think they’ll see the tabletop much, I may make another lord with wings someday, but generally I try to keep costs down on my HQ and like everyone else stick them with a squad in a vehicle for safety.  I was going to make some Nurgle Raptors and I’ll probably still do it someday, but first I think I’ll do Khorne Raptors it makes more sense tactically.  I’m also trying not to buy stuff, but to complete a squad of 8 Khorne Raptors I may need another jump pack or two plus possibly legs… Though I think I’ll get buy it will be the Noisemarines which I’ll do someday too, that will require the buying of some more legs and torsos.

WIP PlaguebearersThe models that I put a lot of work into, especially relative to their importance are the Nurgle demons.  I don’t need more painted Nurgle demons, I can’t even use them in a Chaos Space Marine army currently.  However I bought some both for fun and because I had a plan for hordes of Nurglings…  After buying and assembling them they sat primed in a box for years so slowly I’m working through them.  I think I have six more stands to go.  I use Nurglines and Plaguebearers to try out new techniques and color combinations, sometimes I just use up paint on them left on my palette.

These models were mostly finished prior to the terrain building period, but I still had enough bits undone to try some more stuff out.  The blue grey skin may become a fixture of my Servants of Decay force.  The Zombie on the Nurgling base was painted similar to how I did the sandbags with GW greens: Gretchin, Camo, and Rotting Flesh.  Camo isn’t so important now that I have Gretchin green, it is probably better for zombies anyway.  I used washes mostly Badaab Black and Devlan Mud but also probably Gryphonne Sepia.  Most of my plague demons will look similar to this one, but I’ll try to streamline the technique some. Three dark reds made by Reaper

Plaguebearers with dark red gutsThe other thing I wanted to test was the new Reaper brand dark reds I bought.  The plaguebearers especially the pale one had lots of exposed guts these got covered in Terracotta Clay, Bloodstain Red, and Clotted Red.  Clotted Red is the big winner it covers well and is a nice dark red. The others are more brown, still useful but when trying to get say a squad done I’ll be keeping my red recipe as simple as possible.  I will be painting some Khorne worshiping models and I don’t want them wearing no sissy red.  GW reds especially the new ones tend towards orange.  I don’t want that.

I’m going to Vancouver Island for a few days, see the family, watch the World Wup final with my cousin from Austria.  So I’m trying to get these models done before I go.  I tried finishing them last night but it is getting hot in Vancouver even late into the night.  The reds are drying right now, soon I’ll give them some washes and some highlights with GW reds, I have plenty of those then finish off their weapons and the rags on the one model and they’ll be done.

I tried to use my Awesome Paint Job.com Drying Blood wash but despite shaking regularly it separates and then gums up its dispenser.  I ended up mixing a bit of the thick stuff with water and using that.  I bought three of these washes and the only one that has worked is well I used an excessive amount of Cool Gray again because it gummed up and came out in a big blurt.  I’ve taken to poking a needle in the Reaper and these pots, Vallejo gives me less trouble but it separates too, it just mixes back together better. Next four models I will paint

I have various red washes, glazes, and inks mostly old GW stuff, but you can buy artist ink.  I’ve been buying some of that mostly orange, sepia, and flesh.  I have this olive green one too, but I haven’t tried it.  Oh well maybe on the next batch of Nurglings.

I’m using pigment mixed with water and my beloved old Rust Brown Ink to make the rust on the Plaguebearers blades.  I’ll also probably mix in some orange paint as I often do two or three tones of rust to get an interest effect.  My mom just called so I have to wrap up the miniatures and this post and make sure I don’t miss the 5 o’clock ferry.  It is only 2:30 but I also have to pack and take out the garbage…  I wish I would have done the laundry I guess yesterday, but I guess it will just wait until I return.

I’m going to try the Krylon Matte sealant on these models.  I used it on some of my scatter terrain, nothing bad happened, but we gotta wait and see how it wears, I don’t play much, but I do use my models in games occasionally.  When I get back from Vancouver Island I’ll work on these four tester models and maybe yet more Nurgle demons.

Nurgling Stand

Plaguebearer of Nurgle

Plaguebearer of Nurgle

Contrary to what you may have read elsewhere online, I do know how to paint Nurgle models.

My Top 10 old hobby posts

Although I decided to start a dedicated hobby blog, I also decided not to import all my older hobby related postings from my personal blog into WordPress.com, instead I give you this top 10 list for the benefit of anyone stumbling upon my work for the first time.  Greatest hits particularly in the top ten format are popular with websurfers so read on McDuff:

10: Painted Goblin Command

9: Night Goblin Command

8: Painted Nurgle Miniatures

7: Four More Finished Models

6: Still Painting Test Models

5: Fresh Recruits

4: Blogging, Painting, Slacking

3: Phantom of the Rock Opera

2: Painted Nurgle Forgeworld Dreadnought

1: Top 10 Diseased Sons Chaos Space Marines