Revising Waaagh Musk 40K

As mentioned yesterday I actually got out the Ork Codex and wrote out a 1500 point army list. I tried to use as many of the painted models as I could legally, but I also left room for some new conversions and the new kits, particularly the Trukk and Battlewagon kits GW has released over the last couple years.

Once again I couldn’t sleep last night, so before taking a pill, I wrote a slightly different and more flexible army list. This list isn’t 1500 points, it is 1392 points. It is the core of Waaagh Musk for the next year or two. It still has two Big Meks and still has two Dreads as Troops, it still has too mobs of Shoota boys, and two Looted Wagons. What it doesn’t have is either Burna Boyz or Lootas. Both seem good to me, most stuff in the Codex seems good, though obviously I’ll learn the hard way that BS 2 isn’t as good as BS 4. Oh well, this army is most definitely just for fun. Orks are the fun army, the comic relief army, and I’m going to try and have some fun building and converting my army to work with this Codex and 5th Edition Warhammer 40,000.

Still WIP Gretchin
Still WIP Gretchin

Tonight I have modest dinner plans, but who knows when they will end. I also did the laundry today, but minutiae like that isn’t why people come to my blog. I’m still painting grots. I’ve decided to finish off the two nicer ones today and leave the third one at the end of the paint queue to be finished at a more leaseieruely pace. I paint the black parts black with my now traditional Foundry Charcoal Black Triad plus Badaab Black wash system. I’ll probably highlight a tad more. The grey jerkin just got a wash of Badaab Black. Again some people drown grey in black wash and then call it highlighted black, that isn’t really my style. I plan to paint on some highlights but I’ll take a picture first.

After the black/grey jerkins and boots, all that requires painting is the skull, the belt and ammo pouches, and of course eyes and teeth. Totally doable in an hour or so. So I’m not sure when but this evening I’ll publish this blog post with shots of the finished models and update Flickr.

In the mean time here is Waaagh Musk in brief:

  • HQ: Big Mek #1 “Lone Gunman” with Shokk Attack gun and stuff 105 points
  • HQ: Big Mek #2 “Musk” with Burna, Warbike, and lots of stuff 128 points
  • TR: “Black Knight” Dread with two Kustom Kombi Weapons 105 points
  • TR: “Rainbow Warrior” Dread with one Kustom Kombi Weapon and one Rokkit 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axe Shoota Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Boss Pole 97 points
  • HS: “Big Burna” Looted Rhino with Skorcha, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 90 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moon Shoot Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Power Klaw, Boss Pole, Trukk, Boarding Plank 162 points
  • HS: “Gobsmasha” Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 130 points
  • HS: Battlewagon with Killa Kannon and other stuff including Zzap Gun 185 points
  • EL: Nobz Mob with Waaagh Banner, Pain Boy, Grot Orderly, Boss Pole, Power Klaw and likely more 140+ points
  • –: Nobz ride, Battlewagon with Deff Rolla, Zzap Gun, and other stuff 150 points
Two contrasting Gretchin
Two contrasting Gretchin

This army will score higher in Astronomi-con army comp as it only has one Elite choice. It currently has no Fast Attack choice but I plan to try out all of them except Storm Boyz. My unfinished Storm Boy conversions which I forgot I even started have been demoted to ground pounder status. All my red, black, and white models are in one big mob. I actually took four one piece metal models out of that mob last night and put them with the models I plan to strip, as they had shootas not sluggas in the current parlance. That squad is 20 strong now and has two big shootas.

That squad has no Nob as all the white, black, and red nobz and all the oddboyz are on another shelf. Some of them will get used I’m sure, but I have so many unpainted models both OOP and from AoBR that it will be hard for me to use all of them under the current rules. Oh well I’ll touch them up and update their bases. I looked at the pictures in the Codex and heavily armored Nobz, Big Meks, and Warbosses get 40mm bases, not all nobz, though some follow that practice. I might but I need a lot of 40mm round bases.

I have so many things I want to paint, we’ll see when the Blood Axes, who I plan to do first, finally make it on to the painting table. I’ll eventually be doing a lot of new Nobz and Fast Attack choices including some Deff Koptas as I like to outflank and I think anti-armor despite the ordnance, the Shokk Attack gun, and lots of rokkits already… Anyway I have six Deff Koptas so I may paint up five, though they are expensive. Orks at least have lots of Power Klaws, though I only have two in my army so far, I’ll put one on a Warbikker Nob for sure.

Primered Black Gretchin

Primered Grey Gretchin

Update December 2019

It is now many years later and I have not finished the third Gretchin let alone gotten my old Ork army on the field of battle. My new painting plans doesn’t include too many more Greenskins as I’ve painted so many and used them so rarely. I’ll get back to Nurgle and in a true blast from the past, Necromunda Escher gangers.

Ye Olde Hobby Blog Update

So today hasn’t been the best day for hobby progress. I slept in, but I did go to Richmond and Imperial Hobbies to buy some more paint and stuff. Last night while I couldn’t sleep I finally made an actual army list for Waaagh Musk 40K. This is my old Space Ork army from Rogue Trader and 2nd Edition. With the exception of painting two Gorka Morka gangs, I haven’t used any of those figs for years.

More tools of the trade
More tools of the trade

When the last codex was rumored to be coming out I started to think what it would take to get my army back on the table. I made plans, I bought stuff. I never made an army list though I did realize that even with just the painted and partially painted stuff I have a full Force Org chart worth of stuff. Of course a lot of my models are illegal or at least not quite right. A lot of heavy weapons will need to be swapped, vehicles will need to be modified, new HQ will be in order, but the actual amount of work is less than the Servants of Decay and it requires negligible special orders and no major purchases, maybe three kits and a single blister would be enough.

Most everything in the codex I have an OOP version of with the exception of the battle wagon and trukks. My trukk has a skorcha so the plan is to convert it into a War Trak Skorcha. I liked my War Traks and Skorchas back in the day and in Gorka Morka so lots of flamer templates will be in order. I also want to try some of the new kits and the Loota rules seem good so the only new squads will be Lootas/Burnas. Everything else is either painted or partially painted. Here is my first 1500 point list I’ll be working towards, but I already think I’d change it up a bit if I took it to Astronomi-con:

  • HQ: Big Mek with Shock Attack Gun 110 points
  • HQ: Big Mek with Burna on Warbike 98 points
  • EL: 7 X Lootas, Mek, Grot Oiler 110 points
  • FA: 4 x Warbikes with a Nob 140 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 105 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axes with Shootas and Nob 97 points
  • HS: Looted Rhino with Skorcha 95 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moons with Nob and Trukk 157 points
  • HS: Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ie Gobsmasha 130 points
  • HS: Battle Wagon with Killa Kannon 185 points
  • EL: 5 X Burna Boys with Mek 80 points
  • FA: 2 X Skorchas, one with Grot Riggas 85 points

If you read that and said it wouldn’t score very well in Astronomi-con Army Comp, you’re over thinking things. This is an army that hasn’t been used in a decade that was cobbled together under way different rules and will be kitbashed into legality. When I learned I could use dreads as troops if I took Big Meks I was all over that, but I’d probably be fine with one less Mek, maybe even just a simple Big Mek on foot would be best, then I could afford more Warbikes, Burna Boyz, Skorchas, possibly even a Nobz Mob in a Battle Wagon. I might do that all sometime down the road, but the official target army list for Waaagh Musk is listed above and detailed over on the Waaagh.

I still plan to do the Servants of Decay army. I’ll be painting another test figure for it over grey primer someday soon. However as someone who is still unemployed, though I did apply to at least three new jobs today, placing a large order to Forgeworld is a ways off. I need some Forgeworld goodies for my Chaos Spacemarines, or at least I’d like a Rhino conversion kit and the Bezerker Terminator bits. Those would figure into my 2011 Astro-Van army. I need a lot of stuff for the Servants of Decay hundreds of dollars worth of stuff. I could paint 100 orks and not have to buy a model, but to field the army listed above will require a few new kits and maybe some bitz too.

WIP Gretchin
WIP Gretchin

I threw some more paint on the Gretchin, the metal bitz are done and I started on some blue fabric type tests. I used the Foundation Blue then the new GW Wash as I figured that is what most people would do. I later highlighted with an old pot of Lightning Blue. I discovered I like painting Brazen Brass way better over Black than over Grey, even after washing it. Painting Silver over Grey or Gunmetal is no problems. One of the paints I bought today is the darkest Vallejo metallic I could find. I also bought some Reaper Master Series paint, well one pot, and some Water Effects which I’ll use on my terrain tiles, which I hope to resume later this month.

Stay tuned for lots more painting, but I really hope I get a job soon and have to fight harder for hobby and blogging time. I also hope I can get my sleep schedule normalized, we’ll see what the latest blood test reveals.

Revised 8th Edition Goblins and Ork army list

Last night or this morning I was lying in bed thinking of changes I could make to my Warhammer armies to try to actually win a game of Warhammer Fantasy Battle in 8th Edition. There isn’t much I can do with an all Nurgle Daemon army at 1500 points. I can add or subtract Plaguebearers, Nurglings, and Beasts of Nurgle and none of them have done much on the table top. The Herald of Tzeentch might keep a few more of my models from dying in the magic phase but in general I have to play with the models I have painted.

New brushes and white paint
New brushes and white paint

After finishing the sorcerer I picked up yet more hobby supplies and looked for work. A lot of jobs seem to be good fits for me this week and I talked to a CEO of a startup so maybe my third lengthy period of unemployment post-MBA will finally come to an end. I really don’t care what I do, any experience will obviously help me, and I need money as I have too much debt. But that’s not what my few readers care about.

I just finished writing a new army list at 1500 points, as that is the magic number at Strategies. Bigger games obviously are possible as I have a lot of models painted and quite a few unpainted unlike the Daemon army which is mostly painted except for a few odds and sods OOP models. My army list is goblin heavy and I’ve been trying to embrace that.   even tried to go all goblins, but in the end I couldn’t say no to a 5 point bully and the Big Waaagh spell list. So my 1500 point army list actually has 2 orks in it. My 2000 point army list will have more orks and to save on painting but also so I can have a magic banner (Mork’s Spirit Totem) I’m breaking my vow of no Big ‘Uns. I’m still unlikely to have Black Orks, though some Savage Orks might be fun, especially if new plastic models are in the pipe line as rumored.

Picking my daemon list is easy, my Ork and Goblin list takes a lot more time. I have a lot more options, even with only a few units actually painted. I painted so many goblins (with a tiny bit of help) that I can add or remove dozens of models from units, which doesn’t do that much, but it means I pick my CORE last. I pick my warmachines first as I want them to be central to my army. They shoot over the goblins, which in turn shoot and cast spells at the enemy until they get annoyed and charge or I get to cast one of the movement spells and opt for a surprise charge. The Fanatics of course get in the way of the enemy.

Having dealt with Leadership 4 Night Goblin mercenaries I’ve been thinking of ways to increase my leadership. I still don’t want an Ork general, but I can switch to a Goblin Warboss for one more leadership over the Night Goblin Warboss I added last time I revised the army list. I also decided to put him in with the unit of spearmen and to move my Goblin Battle Standard Bearer to the big unit of archers as that will keep them from running away better than the sorcerer who I had leading the unit. My yet to arrive new Night Goblin Boss figure will still go with the blue archers, but he’ll be demoted to Big Boss and I doubt I’ll bulk that unit up anymore. This all means that I need to paint two hero goblins, which will be a pleasure, something like seven warmachine crew and then base up everything that doesn’t have it’s base finished, which is every model not in this picture.

Night Goblin Archer Horde

So without further ado here is the army list:

  • SPECIAL: Rock Lobber with Bully 75pts
  • RARE: 2 Doom Divers 160pts
  • LORD: Goblin Warboss with light armor, shield, Talisman of Preservation, and Martog’s Best Basha 131pts
  • LORD: Night Goblin Great Shaman with Staff of Sneaky Stealing, Amulet of Protectyness, and Magic Mushrooms 235pts
  • HERO: Goblin Big Boss Battle Standard Bearer with light armor and the Spider Banner 112pts
  • HERO: Night Goblin Big Boss with light armor, shield, Mad Cap Mushrooms, and Ulag’s Akrit Axe 79pts
  • HERO: Ork Shaman, Level 2 Wizard with the Horn of Urgok 140pts
  • CORE: Blue Archers, 24 Night Goblins with Bows, Full Command, 3 Fanatics, and Nets 202pts
  • CORE: Purple Archers, 28 Night Goblins with Bows, Full Command, and 2 Fanatics 154pts
  • CORE: Spearmen, 44 Goblins with Spears, Shields, and Light Armour plus Full Command 240pts

After working out all my heroes which I really need to keep the goblins from running away and to try not to get dominated in the magic phase, I priced out all the blue archers, this is my smallest unit, but with max Fanatics and Nets and a Big Boss geared offensively they are both my most expendable unit and the one I’d like to send out first from my lines. I’d just as soon not get into H2H with the other units as their main goal is to keep their heroes alive.

I also moved the Mad Cap Mushrooms to the Big Boss, this unit is almost completely painted and should be easier to base and make the movement tray for as it is half the size of the other archer unit.

Goblin Army

For the purple archers I wanted to make them a Horde so that meant three rows of at least ten. They also have two heroes the Battle Standard Bearer for his Leadership 7 and the Night Goblin Shaman who is the most expensive model in my army. Hopefully even at Level 3 he can do a good job at dispelling and combined with his Sneaky Staff he should. The Magic Mushrooms are just for fun and so that I can avoid an unlucky failed casting. The Ork Shaman is my offensive magical force. He should have better spells and at 2000 points he’ll be a lot more powerful due to the unit of Big ‘Uns, Waaagh Paint, and Mork’s Spirit Totem. I really think both my armies will start to come into their own at 2000 points…

The last unit I priced out was the biggest. Previously I’d stubbornly insisted on fielding 65 Goblins with spears as that is how they are ranked up in my miniature case, but honestly once you get past four rows of ten, the rest are mainly human shields and based on how my games have gone lots of my models get killed before they get to fight anything. I think this army will do most of it’s damage in the shooting and magic phase with my heroes occasionally having a good round of H2H. The rank and file mainly will die in droves. In order to maximize my Fanatics as much as possible the final unit ended up being 44 strong with full command. This will necessitate me making three more movement trays to play this army at 1500 points but that’s alright, they aren’t as much work as painting and basing the actual models. Eventually maybe I’ll have a whole collection of custom movement trays.

I haven’t priced it out, but I know what I want to add at 2000 points. Waaagh Paint and Mork’s Spirit Totem and a unit of Big ‘Uns on foot with Choppas and Shields will eat up most of the points, but I’m tempted to buy another small Night Goblin Shaman just to get certain other magic items, like say a Dispell Scroll but honestly with all the anti-magic I will have thanks to other magic items I don’t really need it. Usually when someone really wants to cast a spell they risk the miscast to get Irresistible Force. I’ll also probably bulk up the purple goblin units a bit as I have the models painted, unlike the Orks on foot which I only have a handful painted.

I wanted to do a Horde of Orks but honestly I haven’t benefited much from the new Horde rule. I think I’ve fielded the two largest units in the Mighty Empires Campaign and I’ve yet to win. I think higher initiative is still more important than just masses of expendable bodies. Leadership is even more important than Initiative which is why I fitted in the Horn of Urgok into this army list. That will increase my Leadership army wide with a one in six chance of the Shaman carrying it taking a wound. That’ll probably be the first thing I try to cast every Magic Phase, at least while the Shaman has two wounds.

Horde of Plaguebearers with Banners

Behold my Night Goblin Horde!

Night Goblins in their movement tray
Night Goblins in their movement tray

That’s right, it only took about 15 years but I sacrificed my shoulder and back, to finish off this unit of 54 Night Goblin Archers led by a Shaman. The last little bit of brown is drying, then I’ll take the celebratory picture. I don’t think I’ve ever done anything that compares to these guys. At 55 models, all of which have custom bases and decent highlights on the flesh, with the front two rows being quite spiffy, the magnetic movement tray, the four different types of basing, no five…

First I got guilted into getting help with the base coating of these guys. I’m not sure how much time that really saved me as the quality was well below what I would have done. Even the cleaning of the models often leaves a lot to desire. I highlighted the best dozen or so and did up command and a hero, then they sat for a couple more years. Now with the arrival of Warhammer 8th Edition and being presently unemployed I had no excuse other than just not having the commitment to getting them done.

Bases painted brown
Bases painted brown

All week it seems I’ve been working towards this blog post. I built the custom 11 by 5 movement tray. I magnetized all the bases. I created an Autumnal basing scheme. I discovered I was five Night Goblins short of 55, so in one day I painted the missing members of the squad. Then I didn’t think the back 3/5ths were highlighted enough so that was added to the ‘ta do’ list.

Those needing more highlights
Those needing more highlights

Finally I did an epic basing scheme, which I may not completely duplicate on the other squads in this army. First I found the perfect brown, or at least a decent brown. Then after painting the bases,I used UHU glue to put ballast and a little bit of this weird red flock on all the bases.

When that was dry I then did lichen, three different Autumnal colours spread out amongst the unit. When this was completed and dried it was time for the static grass. I had little experience with this material but I had a good set of tweezers which helped. I also learned that static grass absorbs super glue quite a lot and that you need to keep the tweezers about a centimetre from where the glue is, and even then sometimes the glue will flow up the grass cramping your style.

Improved highlights on rear ranks
Improved highlights on rear ranks

I experimented with different sized clumps, different heights, pushing down to make it messy, applying it on an angle. Not all my experiments were a success but taking the unit as a whole, it looks pretty damn impressive, even with all the one pose 4th Edition Warhammer box set archers.

When the static grass was dry it was time for the little brown leaves I got off of Antenociti’s Workshop. These were applied with white glue (Weldbond brand) as was the lichen. These were given ample time to dry as I was summoned out to celebrate Jeff’s birthday. Then at the end of the evening I had to touch up the Delta Ceramcoat Golden Brown.

Ready for the first set of basing materials
Ready for the first set of basing materials

If I had to do it all over, it probably wouldn’t get done. I put a lot of effort into these goblins even spread over 55 models. The basing is over the top and the magnetized movement tray is a total luxury too, especially considering how often I play Warhammer Fantasy Battle. One thing that could be done is to mix up the basing material and apply the mix to save steps. The other thing that should be done is multiple coats of Golden Brown before any other basing material is applied.

Now on to the pictures, I took a lot, one or two after every stage, plus the obligatory final money shot.

Finished with ballast and flock
Finished with ballast and flock
Ready to apply lichen
Ready to apply lichen
Unit with lichen added to the bases
Unit with lichen added to the bases
Special lockable tweezers
Special lockable tweezers
Static grass application techniques
Static grass application techniques
Unit with static grass applied to bases
Unit with static grass applied to bases
Unit with little brown leaves added to bases
Unit with little brown leaves added to bases

Night Goblin Archer Horde

Waaagh!!!

The Importance of Testing Spray Primer

Remember how I talked about priming my old OOP Slaneesh Daemons grey? Remember how I decided to test how this would work with the Grey Krylon Primer I bought? Well their is a method to my madness, and no amount of purple text will make you smart.

Problems priming miniature
Problems priming miniature

Last night in between magnetic squares I primed the test Gretchin grey. It did not go well. I shook the can pretty good but all that came out of it in the first spray was vaguely yellow goop. I wiped as much of that off the model as I could with my fingers and shook the spray can even more. I tried spraying the Gretchin again and a big blob of grey primer comes out and lands right on the Gretchin’s face.

I shook the can even more rotated the model and finally got an almost acceptable spread of paint.

Lots of people have recommended this exact brand of grey primer. It is used by professional artists, it is sold in high end fancy art stores, yet it is cheaper than GW primer. Some claim GW’s isn’t even a primer just black spray paint which is probably true.

Bad Primer?
Bad Primer?

I was mildly annoyed at this development. I was glad it didn’t happen to my OOP Daemons, but at the same time my test figure was seriously compromised. So I got another 2nd Edition Warhammer 40,000 plastic gretchin out from their hiding place. I cleaned the model, even drilled out the barrel for the nit picky. I then primed it. It went a little better. I ended up rotating both models a bit and called them done after one more shot of Krylon Grey primer this morning.

I took photos naturally.

What do you do with the spots that aren’t primed? When the model is black or white it seems obvious you fix the primer with that colour. I don’t know if I have a grey that exactly matches Krylon Grey primer. I have a lot of greys, maybe Foundation Astronomican Grey is close enough. It should go on to bare metal and plastic OK… I’m tempted to just use black though. I’ve become something of a convert to basecoating models with Delta Ceramcoat black. It is really matte, the Chaos Black is notably shinier.

The minis are salvageable
The minis are salvageable

One problem I did discover with the Delta Ceramcoat is it doesn’t stick to sheet styrene well. Yet another thing in favour of using balsa wood.

I still got my great Goblin baseoff to do. I’m expirementing with the basing material I have and contemplating biking to Strategies or Grand Prix Hobbies or both in search of some milder flock than that red stuff. I tried using UHU glue just in spots, with a dip in the ballast then a sprinkling of red stuff. I even got out two pairs of tweezers to try and minimize and position the red stuff. I plan to give the static grass, which I’ve never used, the special leaves, which I’ve never used, and the lichen which I’ve barely used another go. I think if I get a decent proportion of material the red will not dominate and people won’t complain that the ballast isn’t shaded…

It’s my damn army anyway. I really do need to get a squad of Night Goblins finished. It has only taken me 15+ years, they’ll be done by Saturday evening, all 55. Well 58 including the fanatics. I’m going to paint five fresh recruits, they are being primed Chaos Black right now.