Posts Tagged ‘base’

Rebased Terminators

Posted: February 25, 2011 in Diseased Sons, Squad, WIP
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I would have liked to have had them finished two days ago, but I spent a lot of time waiting for paint to dry, for washes to dry, for glue to dry, for modeling paste to dry.  I’ve now rebased all my old terminators on 40mm round bases and can move on to painting new models.

All the Nurgle Terminators I rebased

A lot of steps went into getting them to look like this, including many, many, many hours spent painting the miniatures themselves. The Right Hard Posse was never designed as one big squad, it consists of a lot of extra models and was actually painted as some HQ choices and a couple small squads. Having put all these works into it over the years, I’m going to give the ten man squad a run at this year’s Astronomi-con Vancouver.

Fresh Sprue

Fresh Sprue

In order to get yet more bits to choose from I busted open two boxes of plastic GW models I’ve owned for years.  The Goblins weren’t any use, though I was surprised to find Wolf Rider parts and four banner bits in this box.  The Flagellants were useful.  This box is great for bits.  You get two of everything and lots of spare parts such as heads or little bits of chains.  The rest of the plastic, metal, and resin bits came from my bitz box and my mountain of sprue.

After gluing the bitz to the bases, I then busted out some modeling paste I had bought.  This wasn’t in the original plan, but some people sware by products like this as a basing material.  You can mix paint with it so it can be any color.  You can cut it after it dries, you can even add grit to it.  It goes on like icing a cake.  I used it to fill in the gaps between the big and small base, but perhaps I should have done this first and then stuck the plastic model bits into the paste, but it was a new product to me, and I never thought of that until it was too late.

Modeling Paste

Modeling Paste

After the paste dried, it looked a lot like snow bases, I’m sure some people have used it for that.  One benefit of gluing the bitz to the base is you can then sink them into the ground with paste or just sand and glue.  The white paste got a layer of watered down white glue then a dip into my box of beach sand and then another lengthy drying period.

Next came several coats of black paint.  The first was regular consistency, the next two were watered down.  I recommend gluing sand, and whatever else you plan to use as basing materials to the base during the model assembly phase.  That way if you use spray primer you don’t have to go through the repeated coats of black paint that I did.  Spray primer does a good job on sand.  This is one advantage I have over those paint the model in pieces or mounted on a handle people.

Drybrushing was next, the usual three GW manufactured brown paints.  I used a small drybrush, and was a bit heavy, but I’d never get every base to be perfectly the same or the sand to match that was old and with the new.  Especially because the old sand was really fine.  I like beach sand as it is irregular.

Terminators with modeling paste

Terminators with modeling paste

I started with the metallic bits.  They got painted chainmail, followed by two washes, one of Badaab Black and one of Devlan Mud. I also painted some brass bits using Tin Bitz and Brazen Brass.  I used a custom thinned Rust Brown Ink with some Plasma Red Ink for them.  I also painted the skulls Snake Bite Leather then Bleached Bone.  They two got the Rust Brown plus Plasma Red Ink wash.

After all that was dry the metal were done and the skulls looked pretty good, but I put a highlight of Vallejo Beige on them which looked two harsh so another custom wash was used, this time a darker brown mixed with red.  That was it for the skulls.  The various heads were painted Dhenab Stone then given a wash, of thinned down purple.  Then a highlight of Dhenab Stone.  Other bits were painted purple, or red, or brown.  I even tried out my English Uniform Brown that I ordered from the Vallejo range.

When all this was done it was time for rust and blood.  I did the rust first mixing up a custom wash consisting of water, rust brown ink, and Fiery Orange plus some left over half dried pigments that remain in my rust wash mixing spot…  For the blood I used Tamiya Clear Red and the Lonewolf Blood and Gore method or my interpretation of it.  This really gave the models I nice final touch and it was off to the photo booth.

Sand applied to bases

Sand applied to bases

The squad was pretty much too big to photograph at once.  It worked better as a squad of five models.  I also took some individual model shots all of which are up on Flickr.

Nurgle Terminator with backbanner

Now I’m at a cafe as it is so cold in Vancouver.  This weekend I’ll continue to look for a new job, but also start on some Lead Painter League entries.  I hope to finish one or two weeks worth before returning to models for my armies.

Old Chaos Terminator Updated

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Test Fit Steed

Test Fit Steed

Welcome back intrepid readers to another post on working with miniatures completely devoid of stylish purple text. After letting the glue dry on the multi-part OOP Daemon models and more importantly between the cork tile and the plastic GW cavalry base, it was time to finish off the base and securely mount the model.

The first thing I did was test fit the model and I got out a sharpie and traced roughly where the feet would go.  Then I looked in my toolbox for two part resin epoxy.  Finding none I decided rather than bike to Canadian Tire I would just use super glue to pin the model to the base.

Perhaps if the model was plastic this wouldn’t be necessary, but as this model was multi-part metal and was to serve as a Herald of Slaneesh in a Chaos Daemon Warhammer army, pinning the model to the base would be the wisest course of action.  I got out a piece of metal rod that I got in a whole bag from a hobby or craft store.  I got about dozen two feet long pieces in 1994 and I think I’m on the second one.  I estimated how long of a piece I need then got out heavier-dutier snips and voila a short ‘pin’.  I made sure it was long enough to go through the cork and the plastic by comparing it to the thickness of the base.

Measuring the pin

Measuring the pin

Next I used the pin vise to carefully drill into the rear foot of the Slaneesh Daemon.  I didn’t want to drill through the foot, which wasn’t exactly thick.  After a few minutes of patient twisting I had a hole of sufficient size.  I then used super glue to fix the metal pin to the model.  Then I place the model over the cork base and figured out approximately where I’d need to drill a hole in it.  Go slow with your drilling and this time you do want to go all the way through.

Glue the pin into the model

Glue the pin into the model

Using a judicious amount of super glue on the pin and both feet of the model I fixed the model firmly to the cork flooring material.  Then it was time for some more test fitting, I even decided the model deserved a head.  It also deserved ‘scenic scatter’ basically little bits and bobs to make the base unique.  I tried one of the big resin skulls, but in the end didn’t like it and went with a piece of an old 2nd Edition 40K box set Goff and another 28mm Black Cat Bases skull.

Drill through the base

Drill through the base

After they were secured to the model using Weldbond, it was time to thin some white glue and put it strategically on the base to secure beach sand.  This needs drying time, several hours, but when that has past shake off the excess glue and seal the entire cork and sand base with another layer of thinned down white glue.  This is apparently important.

Scenic ScatterThis was my first time using cork to fancy up a miniature base.  It wasn’t hard at all.  Remember to go slow, use solid basic techniques, measure twice, cut once, and when in doubt pin the model.

These Slaneesh Daemons are not a high priority in my painting queue, in fact I have to make some custom movement trays again and do yet more basing, this time 54 Night Goblins.  Oh boy! Eventually they will be primed grey as discussed previously, but first I may use a little green stuff to fill gaps in the multi-part metal model.  I’ll leave the ride unmounted until most of the way through the paint job.

Another test fit

Another test fit

Finish Base with Beach Sand

Finish Base with Beach Sand

My new magnetic sheets

My new magnetic sheets

So even before yesterday’s less than triumphant return to the Warhammer Fantasy battlefield, I was already dreaming up a bigger multi-model base to allow my converted musician and my army battle standard bearer to rank up better.  I stopped in at the Urban Source on my walk back from Strategies and bought some magnetic sheets, combined with my stockpile of super strong magnets, balsa wood, and sheet styrene I was well equiped to built my multi-base or regiment base and yet more new movement trays for the units I need to field in week 2 of the Mighty Empires campaign.

My horde of plastic sheet styrene

My horde of plastic sheet styrene

I took a lot of pictures and worked on this one base through the wee hours after I couldn’t sleep.  The glue couldn’t dry fast enough and my basic design didn’t change but made it more elaborate and now it will be a lot more work to paint, I have six days, hopefully I can do it in two.

First thing I did was layout some of the stuff I would need, including all the sheet styrene I’ve acquired over the last couple years in anticipation of finishing my Ork & Goblin army and building my trench table.  I went with sheet styrene for this base as I had it in a lot of different thicknesses and it is actually easier to work with than wood.  You just score it with an exacto knife then bend it the other way and it snaps pretty much perfectly clean.

The basic base materials

The basic base materials

The magnetic sheet you can cut with scissors and I trimmed it with an exacto knife too.  I glued it to the sheet styrene.  I affixed the super magnet to the bottom of the base with super glue then I put tiny sheet styrene guides to keep the models in the right spot rather than just allowing them to attach willy-nilly to the base.

With that all done it was time to add sand.  I also planned to embellish the base and went looking for a Nurgling in my bits box, I didn’t have any, I did find a really old squig.  I also cleaned two more of my 28mm Black Cat Bases metal skulls.  They are still awkward to clean but once done they glue and paint up nice on bases.

Installing the strong magnet

Installing the strong magnet

After the sand had dried I sealed it with more white glue.  That sand was a bit sparse but I had to let glue dry so I went to bed.  I actually got about two hours sleep.  Then I woke up and checked on the model and some other stuff.

I’d already jotted down next week’s army list and I even was looking ahead to week three, noting I needed a Herald of Tzeentch so I went looking for one among all the old models I bought back in the day or traded for.  I never found a single Horror, but I found a Chaos Sorceror who might do.  I also waded through a whole bunch of bits to find all the pieces to a circa 1995 Marauder Fiend of Slaneesh and two Steeds of Slaneesh one with an old metal Daemonette rider.

Test fitting the miniatures

Test fitting the miniatures

I also needed to figure out the bases that should go with the models now.  I had to rebase my Beasts of Nurgle earlier and I put them on homemade 40mm square bases.  The base I was working on right now is about 50mm square.  I actually found two resin 50mm square bases and many cavalry bases that came with the Steeds, Fiends, and Fleshhounds.  I went on the internet and it appears the new plastic Steeds and Daemonettes are on cavalry bases.  I plan to assemble the one I have maybe use it as a Herald some day.  I have another Steed which I’ll mount a Chaos Space Marine on someday…

The Fiend appears to be on a 40mm square base which I have none of.  I could make one out of sheet styrene but I might look into getting a resin one at Strategies.  The model is so old and puny a bigger base would help it stand out.

My WIP custom base

My WIP custom base

After rumaging through my grandfather’s old shell case which I use to store blisterpacks and bags of minis.  I finally got to see how the new base ranks up with the other plaguebearers and the movement tray I’d previously made.  It worked just fine thank you, another tribute to precision engineering.

It was about then or perhaps after lying in bed unable to sleep for a couple more hours I realized I could have put two more Plaguebearers on the base.  I would have been better off perhaps gluing them straight to the magnetic sheet, but I already had some sand down.  Despite how late at night it was, I got out a variety of tools and clipped, cut, and sanded the tab off two plaguebearers.  I test fit them first, but basically I had to glue them to mixture of UHU glue, white glue, and sand.

Fitting one base into another

Fitting one base into another

One of them went on alright, the second one not as well, partly due to cat liter in my sand mix.  I gobbed on more UHU glue and went back to bed.  Several hours later I was still awake so I got up and removed the extra sand I’d added.  The UHU glue must not have been fully hard, or it interfeared with the previous glue, or it was just a bad fit as eventually while fiddling one plaguebearer leaned over and collapsed.

I had to clean off some glue and sand then more forcefully I jammed his feet into the still slightly wet mixture of sand and glue.  This time I didn’t use super glue to try and attach him, I tried an epic-ly old tube of Citadel plastic cement that came in some game box set and has lasted me a decade or more, then if that wasn’t enough I got out my super glue and drenched the sand around the plaguebearers feet.  That hardened things up and I think it should hold.  If it makes it through painting it should get a game tryout next Sunday.  If not the next thing to try is epoxy resin.

Custom Magnetic Regimental Base

Custom Magnetic Regimental Base

After again not being able to sleep I finally got up at around six am.  My kitchen is pretty empty, I need to do the laundry, go to the doctor and pharmacist, and I plan to visit Darren and double check a few things before I go to crazy with painting and converting for next weeks campaign game.  What can you do at 6 in the morning? Well you can get the paper, go to one of the 24 hour cafes on Main Street and read.

I also checked my email and I’m waiting for my doctor’s office to open at 9am.  So I decided to use some of this time to type out another rambling blog post, complete with the most pictures ever.  A lot of steps and stages went into making one little movement tray.  After I confirm my army list for next week I’ll make two maybe three more movement trays, probably out of sheet styrene as it is quicker, but I might make one out of wood, it all depends on the size and shape.  I also may be forced to finally finish the bases on some of my goblin hordes, my proposal for 375 points of Night Goblin mercenaries results in 54 bases I need to do…

There were more in-progress shots, plus a bunch of various old minis I’ve horded and sorted through late last night.  Here are a couple more snaps I took with the iPhone:

One of my stashes of unpainted minis

One of my stashes of unpainted minis

Box of Old Random Minis

Box of Old Random Minis

Bag of OOP Chaos Renegades

Bag of OOP Chaos Renegades

8 old Daemonettes

8 old Daemonettes

Bag of 40K Khorne stuff

Bag of 40K Khorne stuff

Bag of old OOP Daemons

Bag of old OOP Daemons

Old Chaos Sorceror Model

Old Chaos Sorceror Model

Old Fiend of Slaneesh bits

Old Fiend of Slaneesh bits

Metal Steed of Slaneesh bits

Metal Steed of Slaneesh bits