Posts Tagged ‘bases’

Basing with cork

Basing with cork

Welcome back to the part of the Internet where random purple text and owning a domain called BloodOfKittens is not considered cool, where once again we will try to focus on the miniature painting hobby specifically how to give your minis that extra special base.  Hobbyists with Internet access and a credit card are spoiled these days with specialty pre-made resin base manufactures.  I’ve tried several and on my recent trip to Strategies Games and Hobbies on Main Street in Vancouver, I picked up some square bases covered in skulls manufactured by Micro Art Studio and Reaper Miniatures. I couldn’t find any cool cavalry bases (or 25mm by 50mm outside of GW land), so I was stuck with making one somehow.

Now I’d read online of the miracle basing product known to the rest of the world as cork tile.  Basically they are a form of flooring for homes, I found some excess thin cork at Urban Source, also on Main Street in Vancouver, which was 50 cents a piece.  You can use this cork to make bases, or rubble, or even buildings for your miniature wargaming needs.

Clamp and Glue parts together

Clamp and Glue parts together

First you need to cut out a piece of cork about the size of your base.  It can be a bit bigger on the front and the sides, but for ranking up not too big.  I don’t really plan to rank this model.  After you cut the basic shape you just randomly bust off, or pinch off, little bits of cork around the edges until you end up with an irregular shape, that fits basically on top of your plastic GW cavalry base.

Trim model tab

Trim model tab

Once you have a suitable shape, you get out your white glue, in my case Weldbond brand and you coat the cork with it on one side.  You then position the cork on top of the plastic base and clamp it tight.  Now you really need to give the glue time to dry, that is why I started with that part of my basing task.

Next I started cleaning up the bits and pieces that make up an old Chaos Sorcerer, an old Steed of Slaneesh with Daemonette rider, and an old Fiend of Slaneesh.  I used a file and in some cases an exacto knife.  The Steed did not have a tab, but may have had one originally, I got the model in a trade of sorts in about 1996, maybe be a bit after.  I filed down the feet so I’d have a nice flat surface to work with.  I test fit the legs and put weight on the back to see which position would be most solid.  Then I put super glue in the molded holes and glued both legs at once and let it sit.  It stands upright as you can see in some of the photos, this should make mounting it to the base easier.

Marking hole with white paint

Marking hole with white paint

After that I glued the rider together.  I twisted the upper torso around quite a bit, not to be dramatic, but because that was how the model fit together tightest.  You can do a certain amount of filing and adjusting, but sometimes you just have to go with whatever pose works best.  Finally I glued the lower jaw to the head and let the Steed sit on my hobby table in three separate pieces, four if you count the base.

The sorcerer was going to be the easiest, but still might provide a lesson in mounting models to resin bases.  That is right I’m using pre-cast skull bases that I bought in a blister.  I clipped off almost the entire tab on the sorcerer.  When mounting metal models to resin bases it is best to leave a small spike of metal jutting out from the bottom of the model.  I didn’t take the best photo at this stage but I was busying working away and all these pictures were just quick snaps with my iPhone.  After filing the the tab as level as possible I then test fit it on all five skull bases in the blister.  I found the one that seemed to work best with this model and I painted a dab of white paint on the metal spike.  Then I again test fit it, now there is a little glob of white paint on the base where the spike should go.  You then drill this out with your pin vise.

Adding plastic to the metal base

Adding plastic to the metal base

Then you test fit the model again and assuming all is well glue the bottom of the model and the spike to the base.

Setting aside the sorcerer I turned to perhaps the most problematic of the three models, the circa 1995 Marauder Fiend of Slaneesh.  I gave this model a good filing and test fit the various pieces.  The main torso is in two pieces and the base I bought for it is solid metal.  The first thing I did actually was trace out a 40mm by 40mm square of sheet styrene.  I scored it and broke it off like it says to do on the packaging.  Then I glued that to the bottom of the Reaper skull base which I’d also cleaned with a file and exacto knife.

If you use super glue like I did you only get one chance to do this.  If it is a little off you can just file and cut off the white styrene that sticks out.  Even before I opened the blister I’d decided to do this, I thought the model would slide better on the table and it added a little bit more height to the small Fiend of Slaneesh.  Turns out the base is partially hollow, I don’t think the sheet styrene was absolutely necessary, but I had it at hand and it does slide nice on my hobby table.

Hollow underside of metal base

Hollow underside of metal base

After basing the base I decided to trim off the tabs from the two halves of the Fiend torso.  I had already decided it was best to get the torso together before trying to base it.  I left a single spike on one leg and filed the rest flat.  It actually fit quite well on the base with three legs supporting it upright.  I’ve gotten ahead of myself, old multi-part metal models are often notoriously difficult to get a good fit.  This model wasn’t bad, I didn’t get out greenstuff, but I did file it a lot before and after I super glued it together.

With the model together and an optimal position on the base determined, it was time again for a dab of white glue and the pin vise.  I didn’t drill into the styrene, the base is plenty think enough to accommodate the spike.  Again I put super glue on all four paws and the spike and set it down on the base.  I held it together for 30 seconds or whatever then got out the arms.  I test fitted them and though the pose might not be the best, again I went with the tightest fit.  One arm fit better than the other so I did yet more filing.  At some point the model came partially unglued from the base, so more super glue to the rescue.

Fitting the Fiend together

Fitting the Fiend together

With the arms on the model, it was time for the head.  This had lots of surface to glue to, but not the best fit.  I may get out the green stuff for this, but I might just go with it.  It’ll likely never be an award winning model but I still think I can make it look cool.  I dubbed it “Retro Demon” and it will get a suitably disco paint job.

I flipped over the cork base and could still see white glue.  White glue, the brands I prefer anyway dries clear, that is how you know it has set.  So it was time for lunch and a blog post, not exactly in that order, but I’m getting hungrier as I type.  Later tonight I may finish off the cork base and the Steed of Slaneesh which is the most instructive half of this little project, then it is primer and back to brush work for me.  Though before that I may build a couple of movement trays and there is also 54 Night Goblins that need to have their bases finished.  They’ll get less elaborate bases to be sure.  I have a lot of work to do in order to play in the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires campaign.

Mid 90s Fiend of Slaneesh

Mid 90s Fiend of Slaneesh

Apparently one of the tutorials I’ve written has been added to the From the Warp tutorial section which I link to from my Painting Advice page but not in this blog’s sidebar.  I’ll have to fix that.  While looking for my name in lights so to speak and eating my sandwich, I discovered this tutorial on using cork in basing so you can see where I’m going.  I tried test fitting the Steed just now, it’ll work but I’m not sure whether pinning is necessary, I was going to and I think it is for the best…

Remember to let the glue dry

Remember to let the glue dry

And I lost…

My re-based Beasts of Nurgle

My re-based Beasts of Nurgle

I actually did well.  I got screwed over a little by the campaign getting nothing useful for an event and having no choice but to fight the guy everyone was afraid of, John and his Dark Elf army.  My Plaguebearer horde preformed well, but everything else except Harold, the Herald of Nurgle performed poorly and suffered because of all the points invested in the 40 Plaguebearers lead by the army Battle Standard Bearer.

Making room for magnet

Making room for magnet

I’m back home but still sweating from carrying miniatures twenty plus blocks.  My plan was to put together 1500 points of painted Nurgle Daemons, show up every week or so, play a game or two try to have a little fun.  So much for my plan, next week is mandatory mercenary week in the campaign.  Lucky for me I have a second army, luckily they can ally, unlucky for me that I will have to base them and make movement trays…

Late last night I was scheming up plans to re-base my troublesome Plaguebearer musician conversion and add some magnetic umph to my Battle Standard Bearer, I even had elaborate plans to make my big honkin’ banner even more over the top.  I was also thinking of painting another plaguebearer, not terribly ambitious plans.  Now it is in my best interest to finally base my goblin hordes and to bring some ranged fire power and increased offensive magic.

Magnet fits well

Magnet fits well

If I was doing a pure 1500 Daemon army, I’d definitely have a Herald of Tzeentch at 115 points for a level 2 wizard, the Nurgle Herald is 115 points too and he isn’t even a wizard yet, I spent 275 points on him for the game and although he helped me defeat three Dark Elf units I still lost the game.  Nurgle has such low initiative and relatively few attacks it may be the weakest of the four powers, especially after regeneration was neutered some.

Model Sits Level

Model Sits Level

I did take a lot of pictures and I do have some thoughts for next week, but I’m just beat.  I think I’ll save this as a draft and revise it later.  I think some down time, especially considering I’m operating on about 3-4 hours sleep is in order.

Well I’m back, I didn’t take a nap, but I got next week’s army list worked out and I got the funky drummer drumming so if I’m going to get this done this evening and impress my new blog network, I better get typing.

Here is the army I ended up running at Strategies today:

  • LORD: Slim, Daemon Prince with Wing 320pts
  • HERO: Harold of Nurgle, Herald of Nurgle, Battle Standard Bearer, Banner of Unholy Victory, Level One Wizard, Noxious Vapors, Slim Trail 275pts
  • CORE: Netherworldly Mathematicians, 39 Plaguebearers, Full Command, Icon of Virulence 523pts
  • SPECIAL: George Jr’s, 5 * Nurgling Stands 175pts
  • RARE: Slimey and Esmaralda, two Beasts of Nurgle 200pts
Table Setup

Table Setup

So yeah I didn’t win but I had to play the dreaded Dark Elf player he had a Hydra, a level 4 Wizard, Cold One Knights with a Hero, Dark Riders, Witch Elves, and two squads of crossbowmen.  I never saw his army list and although I did my best, it seems I remember rules that hurt me and perhaps a few turns of Fear checks or sixes from Poison never happened as they were supposed to.

Before I put all the pics up, I spent last night scheming how to re-base some models and now after a visit to the craft store on Main Street I’ve got enough magnets to make the two more movement trays I need, plus it appears I need to paint the bases of 54 Night Goblins by next Sunday, as it is mandatory ally day.

First of all Darren the store owner wanted us to play a random scenario with random terrain.  This resulted in the Watchtower  scenario with 7 pieces of terrain much of it magical and confusing.  It also took a long time to set up the table and figure out what did what.  I avoided maneuvering into the fancy terrain, but my opponent John who had the bigger army couldn’t and for a while the terrain had killed more Dark Elf models than my Nurgle Army.  Eventually the Netherworldly Mathematicians found their mojo and hewed through three Dark Elf units.  The rest of my army didn’t do much and I will be revising my list for next week and the week after accordingly.

My Army Deployment

My Army Deployment

Due to the mission I had to deploy first but go second.  John had the “Scouts” campaign event which trumped my scouts, the Nurglings and the fact I should have gone first as I started with control of the Watchtower technically.  The all CORE Horde Army which I ran and plan to run with my Orks and Goblins is disadvantaged here as only 20 models can fit in the watchtower according to the rules.  This along with my inability to make key saves or unwillingness or naivete in not somehow buying better saves cost me the game.

I deployed sensibly.  Slim my Demon Prince hid behind the Elven Way Stone and despite my caution with him all game, he eventually died to enemy shooting costing me the victory.  Next week he was going to have the Trappings of Nurgle but I just remembered I made him a non-Nurgle Demon and then of course he can’t afford it anyway in a 1500 point game…  DAMN now I need to revise next week’s army list and I was so proud of it too.  Too bad Demons can’t use common magic items.  I’m not painting another Demon Prince and Slim would really benefit from the armour save and regeneration that the Trappings of Nurgle provides.  If he didn’t have wings, I still couldn’t fit it in at 1500 points…  Back to the army books and redrafting next weeks list.  At least I don’t have to redo my 375 points of mercenaries.

Scout Moves

Scout Moves

There isn’t a lot I can do at 1500 points using the Daemons of Chaos List, the best I can come up with while still spending less than 375 points on LORDs is to make Slim a Level One Wizard with the Lore of Metal and hope to get the one defensive spell, if I don’t get it, I still like the Lore of Metal’s offensive capabilities and plan to use it instead of Nurgle’s Lore and instead of Fire unless I play Wood Elves.

So after the enemy deployed my Nurglings showed up I put them just over 12 inches away from the dreaded War Hydra and the almost as dreaded Cold One Knights.  They didn’t last long but they did allow the Plaguebearers to get the charge bonus and eventually wear down the Dark Elves.  I didn’t have a good answer in the magic or shooting phase and I didn’t take on the War Hydra when I had the chance, next time I might be tempted to charge it just to keep it from using its’ breath weapon which killed 11 plaguebearers in a single shot later in the game.

Turn One Taking Charges

Turn One Taking Charges

As you might have gathered, the Dark Elf player got first turn and took the bait.  He charged the Nurglings with both the Hydra and the Cold Ones.  The Hydra did not roll well enough but the Cold One Knights and their hero were way too much for the Nurglings dealing 15+ wounds counting instability rolls which accounted for the last six I think.

With the Nurglings gone there was nothing to be done but charge down the hill with the Plaguebearers.  I think I need to roll 8 or higher and I rolled ten.  The first round of combat didn’t go well, neither did the second.  Harold my Herald refused to fight the Dark Elf hero in a challenge the second round, sulking at the back.  He is much more valuable alive as he was my Battle Standard Bearer, my only wizard, and was worth D3+1 Combat Resolution.  Despite looking there was no rule that said his banner didn’t work in the back rank.  Harold had Pit of Slime and his unit was in H2H from the first turn until the last when I yielded pretty much.  So he was strictly a defensive magician.  Next time my Battle Standard Bearer won’t be my only wizard if at all possible.

Turn One Making Charges

Turn One Making Charges

I think a Herald of Tzeentch is the long term solution to this problem at 1500 points.  But short term I’ll be bringing an allied hero wizard and giving Slim a go in the magic phase as a Level One Wizard in his own right.

I took a picture of how the Dark Elves deployed.  His mysterious river, there were two, along with the Haunted Mansion gave him some grief, I think he would have been best just to ignore them and deploy wherever he wanted.  The central watchtower and the speed of the Dark Riders prevented the Beasts of Nurgle from doing much.  Their initiative of one ensured they ultimately died to the Purple Sun.  Nurgle really suffers with the increased emphasis on initiative and presumably Slaneesh benefits.

After two turns of all out charging there was a period of a turn or so of maneuvering waiting to see who won the one H2H fight.  The Plaguebearers prevailed and followed up catching the hero and killing it.  Then I took an absolute beating in the shooting phase but still charged the crossbowmen and saw them off too, though by then I was down to a single row of Plaguebearers.

Cold One Knights are Routed

Cold One Knights are Routed

About now the Purple Sun finally got cast, but the first time it did nothing.  The Witch Elves came out to play and the Crossbowmen who had taken control of the Watchtower got to meet Slim.  I learned I couldn’t multiple charge the Watchtower which is lame and prevented the Beasts from charging for another turn.  I should have marched then while maneuvering.  I maneuvered them, but always moved at slow speed when I flat out didn’t have to.  That’s inexperience for you.

Slim got to charge the Crossbowmen, despite them standing and shooting and bringing him ultimately down to one wound and me forgetting my Thunder Stomp! I won and chased those Dark Elves out of the tower.  Slim being a monster couldn’t hide in the tower.  The routing Dark Elves were ultimately charged by the Beasts, killed and the Beasts succeeded in escaping one Purple Sun only to be killed by another faster one, 30 inches of movement in one turn!

Dark Elves take the tower

Dark Elves take the tower

After getting burnt, losing their regeneration for the remainder of the phase there were a lot less Plaguebearers.  They were still more than enough for the unit of Dark Elf Crossbowmen in front of the Haunted Mansion.  It was much more surprising when just two surviving Plaguebears both carrying magic standards managed to win a round of combat against the relatively fresh Witch Elves, who broke, were caught and killed.

Alas I didn’t have enough staying power and the crossbow bolts and Purple Suns eventually removed all my models but the aforementioned two Plaguebearers.  I put their banners away during the game, but with my new supply of magnets and some more cinematic basing, they might stick around for more than a photo op.  My DIY musician with my home-made Gong of Despair will hopefully be no problem once I make my custom 2 Plagubearers taking up four models worth of space mini movement tray.

A lot less plaguebearers than I started with

A lot less plaguebearers than I started with

As I said next week is mandatory mercenary week, I’m probably not in last but with only one campaign point and being stuck in the jungle in the upper left corner, I’m close to the bottom.  But I know I’m not trying very hard to win, played the toughest opponent almost to a draw, and with a lot of effort can probably field a better list.  Luckily I’m unemployed so can devote say three days to making movement trays and basing goblins to produce this army list for next week:

  • LORDs: Daemon Prince, Wings, Level 1 Wizard 370pts
  • HEROs: Harold of Nurgle, Battle Standard Bearer, Banner of Unholy Victory, Slime Trail 200pts
  • CORE: 29 Plaguebearers, Full Command, Icon of Eternal Virulence 403pts
  • Mercenary HERO: Night Goblin Shaman, Level 2 Wizard, Mad Cap Mushrooms, Amulet of Protectyness 130pts
  • Mercenary CORE: 50 Night Goblins with short bows, Full Command, 3 Fanatics 245pts
  • SPECIAL: 4 Stands of Nurglings 140pts
  • Leftovers: one more Plaguebearer 12pts
Two Plaguebearers Remain

Two Plaguebearers Remain

There you go, that army hopefully has more offensive and defensive magic.  Slim is still vulnerable but hopefully 50+ Night Goblins will cause some worry.  I think the Plaguebearers will do better deployed in depth, it was the banners and the bonus points of combat resolution that won for me, not my extra attacks and the pitiful few kills I actually managed.  Slime Trail is a really smart use of 10 points and makes Harold exactly 200 points which is more reasonable.

Next week I have the mercenary Night Goblin Shaman with the Little Waaagh magic, but future 1500 point armies will have a cheap Tzeentch Herald I think.  I’ll just put him on foot and hide him behind some squad, say the Plaguebearers.  I’ll give the Beasts of Nurgle another go someday, the Purple Sun was a bit of bad luck, more defensive magic might help, but just getting stuck in would help too.  I also plan to assemble and paint a Fiend of Slaneesh for the speed.  I think the model currently retails for about 35 dollars Canadian so that might be something to buy, though I already own one from a trade many years ago.  Fleshhounds are the other option I own that will add speed and higher initiative troops quickly and easily to the army.

Victory against Witch Elves

Victory against Witch Elves

Magnetic Sheets For Sale

Magnetic Sheets For Sale

First up is more basing, more movement trays, and yet another Plaguebearer.  I also will get some non-Nurgle Heralds and my one Fiend of Slaneesh assembled and hopefully painted in the next two weeks.

While editing this post for the third time, to make it more better and add a link to Urban Source where I got my sheets of magnets, I also thought since flamer template attacks are all the rage, Nurgle usually has one, but it is too many points to give to Slim at 1500.  I’m going to have to paint more stuff or at least field more stuff and use a higher points value, maybe in week three if the campaign goes better…

Movement tray is the Perfect Size

Movement tray is the Perfect Size

So work has been ongoing on re-basing my old Beasts of Nurgle and creating a custom movement tray for my Horde of 40 Plaguebearer.  These models and a couple Nurgling stands and Slim are set to make their Warhammer 8th Edition debut.  Most of these models have never been used in WFB.  I think Slim hasn’t, the Beasts have and maybe 16 Plaguebearers have.

I didn’t have much luck gaming with them over a decade ago.  Daemons could break and run, they had no ranged attacks and negligible ranged spells.  Beasts moved random distances and not terribly fast, my most reliable unit in the few small games I played was the Nurglings.  Now under the current rules they may be the weak link, of course in bigger points games I can field 10 stands which might make a difference, my proposed 2000 point list had two units of 5 stands, while at 1500 points I have one unit of four stands.

I blackened the edges first

I blackened the edges first

Anyway it isn’t a tactical army or carefully chosen, it is just a bunch of Nurgle demons I painted up for the Diseased Sons.

The bases and movement tray were made of balsa wood, glue, and sand.  I used some plastic and metal bits to decorate the Beast bases, but mainly it is my traditional drybrush order of Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic Brown.  After the drybrushing was done I touched up various bits on the Beasts with black.  Then I just plan to do a quick job on the little details I added so I could get everything finished and either take a break from painting tomorrow or get back to working on my Astronomi-con Vancouver army.

The perfect glue application

The perfect glue application

Of course I got all the Plaguebearers out of the miniature case for the family photo.  I plan to put it on Flickr and post it to a forum or two.  It is a pretty good looking unit of demons, all metal too.  Some think the big banner is dated, so I may spruce that up.  It tips over too much so I’ll either do something major with the banner bearer or just leave it out.  I took with and without banner photos so you can see all the individual highlights and custom colours and what have you on the Plaguebearers.  You’ll have to look a ways to find a well painted unit this big, mine will be at Strategies Games on Sunday…

They do not rank up the best.  Most of them are fine but the DIY standard bearers and even worse the DIY Gong of Despair just won’t rank up.  I think I need to retire that model and paint the musician with the bell that I picked up more recently.  Originally when the rules came out you had to convert your standard bearers, musicians, and unit champions.  You still kinda have to convert your Heralds of Nurgle.  I’m just using the one with the bigger banner.

Adding the beach sand

Adding the beach sand

This was actually quite a lot of work.  I was all proud of my old world handcrafted quality but when I was using a size three brush to paint the tray black, I started thinking that it is worth it to buy pre-made movement trays especially if you can get them magnetized which is my plans for the goblins, I just need to talk to Litko and of course get a job and make the money to afford it.  If I add anymore units to my tenuous Warhammer Daemon army, say a unit of Daemonettes or even just some Flesh Hounds of Khorne I may go all out and get premade bases and matching movement trays, Micro Art Studios and others make really nice resin pieces.  If you’re going to put as much time and effort into your models as I usually do, the extra expense for the resin bases isn’t that much and it does tie the unit together which is doubly important in Warhammer Fantasy Battle.

Now the moment you’ve all been waiting for and another day of mine gone to blogging and painting miniatures, the complete Horde of 40 Plaguebearers, the Netherworldly Mathematicians, the flagship unit of the Diseased Sons Nurgle Daemon Army:

Horde of 40 Nugle Plaguebearers

Horde of Plaguebearers with Banners