Painting Plague Marines Still

of course I’m also painting mud, skulls and Nurglings too…

Of course I’m also painting mud, skulls and Nurglings too. Always be painting Nurglings, I actually bought another box of them because I’m out of single Nurglings, the last one I had off sprue was glued on to Bob the Necessary Evil this week.

In fact that Nurgling is the only part of Gangrene that isn’t done. I don’t have to finish it tonight and there are lots of parts of the models I’d like to improve but for now they just get bigger bases with more skulls and mud, plus of course the champion of the squad gets a Nurgling on his base.

Purple Diseased Son using Shyish Purple

I’m also painting a purple plague marine. I used Wraithbone to prime him and thinned Shyish Purple as the first coat. Then things get weird, well weird if you’re a GW fanboy as I used 19B Royal Purple from the Foundary Paint System. This isn’t a great match for Shyish or for my old dried out Citadel colors but it is what I have and have used recently. Then I used Warcolours violet shade, this is probably my favourite paint of the ones I ordered from them. I used it un-thinned but it was just obscuring my tiny lines so I thinned it. Then of course would come 19A and more tiny lines and then to try and tie it together Purple Glaze with a red lid and an octagon pot. Those were great GW paints and I wish I had the whole set.

No 40K This Weekend

Bill was out of commission so I took that as a sign I should paint, but I never put in that many hours, we’ll see how the Purple Diseased Son ends up. I might paint one more Purple plague marine, but I might go back to the black basecoat. I’ll have to try a Contrast green plague marine, I keep buying paints and testing them on Nurglings or small parts of models. I tried Kroak Green Shade on my latest Nurgling, that might be a winner.

Although no Warhammer 40,000 was played at least not by us in our narrative campaign, the regulars and one extra attempted to play a 9000 point a side Horus Heresy game. I managed to watch one turn, if it doesn’t look like a fair fight it is because the Imperial Fists were late and everyone and their dog was in reserves.

9000 points of Horus Heresy supposedly

It was actually Aiden’s birthday so I walked down to the Sentry Box to wish them well, Mortarion had just arrived when I left, his Spartan had been destroyed, it is one of the grey ones but Mortarion himself and his bodyguard were painted.

As I may have revealed last week I planned on adding some more Blightlords both to my collection and to my squad in the narrative campaign and although Sentry Box had several boxes last week, when I got there this Saturday there were none, they did have Nurglings which I may eventually field, but my paint queue is going to go plague marines, blightlords then new HQ after Maceo’s not unexpected demise. I’ll paint him as a spawn but he’s back to sitting in my display case.

Maceo the Retired

This weekend I took it pretty easy but I did exercise and I did paint and now I have updated this blog. I was tying to finish off the bases on five models tonight, but I just don’t need to, tomorrow is #MiniatureMonday so I’ll probably paint again and post to the Gram. I just have the fine detail work to do on the Nurgling and I prefer to do that when I’m fresh.

I’ll also find out if contrast power armour saves me time or yields better results than my traditional black basecoat Diseased Sons’ technique. I do think contrast paint will speed up some of the secondary parts of the model like the cloth tabard but for true metallics I think I prefer painting those over black. I did pick up some Mortarion Grime maybe that will become the new Devlan Mud at least among Death Guard and Nurgle players.

If you have thoughts on painting plague marines or Nurgle miniatures you can leave them below.

Painted mud and skulls for hours

Only to have our game of 40K be cancelled…

Only to find out on the morning of the big Warhammer 40,000 game, the possible start of our long discussed campaign, that it is cancelled on account of snow. That’s right it started snowing while I was painting last night and although we didn’t get that much, it was deemed enough to delay our 40K game for a day or a week or more.

All was of course not lost, as although not my best work, I did paint an entire model in under a day, I finished it this morning. I also embiggened the bases of another batch of Plague Marines. I did forget to enbiggen the base of my proposed Death Guard Chaos Lord. After consulting the Internet and Bill it was decided to go with 32 mm, so I have to paint yet more mud and skulls.

Nurgling Infested Objectives
Essential Nurgling Infested Objectives

Nurgling Infested Objectives

Long time loyal readers may recall I entered the 2002 Calgary Grand Tournament. That was about twenty years ago and I’m still painting bits I bought by the pound or gram back then. One of the requirements was to bring three themed objective markers so of course I converted some Nurgling infested ones.

One of them was on a 40mm base but the others were just loose pieces of plastic and metal. That’s right Nurglings like everything else used to be metal. They were finished the night before the tournament using whatever greens Owen had lying around.

I think I won the most games of any Grand Tournament I attended in Calgary, but I got a lower painting score and I didn’t think they did a very good job judging, so I vowed to show those guys in Calgary where they could stick their brushes and painted like mad for the next Western Canadian Grand Tournament, the 2003 Vancouver GT.

Campaign Badges

A lot of models got stripped and repainted since 2002 so models with the campaign badge from then are rare. However that is when I started the tradition of painting little badges on the power armour and vehicles of the Diseased Sons. Bill still hasn’t determined the name of our yet to start campaign. I volunteered the ultra uncreative Nachmund campaign.

Once I get a couple more models painted and rebased I’ll take a group photo of those who started the yet nameless campaign. Unlike a tournament this campaign could go on a while and you are allowed to spend requisition points to add new models, weapons, even entire units to your force. So even though my eyes aren’t what they once were, I’ll be painting a lot more little campaign badges and those with eagle eyes among you can play spot the campaign badge and try to work out which force that model was once a part of.

Purple Plague Marines
Infamous Purple Plague Marines

Mud & Skulls

Another thing my models have been dinged for at tournaments is the bases. They are basically dry brushed sand. Eventually I bought a lot of resin bases so most models painted since the early 2000s will have those, but I grew up on an Island, sand was free and dry brushing bases was the way it was done back in the 90s.

Now as part of the great rebasing of 2022, I’m adding at least one skull to every base. My new skull recipe is Wraithbone then Skeleton Horde and honestly that looks pretty good. I’ve tried various combinations and the colour I’m most likely to use to highlight with if not Wraithbone itself is now Vallejo Game Color Bonewhite. Then if I want it even whiter which I didn’t do this batch I’ll go to Vallejo Game Color Dead White.

I’ll often use another wash, I can spend a lot of time on skulls. I will use a thin red wash or glaze, I’ll also sometimes use a thinned black ink. Also in my bag of tricks are various GW products, I was a big fan of Gryphonne Sepia, while everyone else was on the Devlan Mud bandwagon I preferred the more subtle effect of Gryphonne Sepia. I also have my old old Rust Ink, which when it is gone, I’ll be sad. I’m beginning to use Army Painter Quickshade Strong Tone, Agrax Earthshade, and even Seraphim Sepia but my secret weapon last night was Baby Poop.

Plague Marines, Mud, Skulls, Nurglings and TP

How to paint Nurglings

You can paint Nurglings anyway you want, but I tried out a couple new to me paints/products on this batch. I did the horns the same as I did the skulls and I am trying hard to use Contrast paints so the one I tried out this batch with some success was Militarum Green. Maybe I’ll go back to Plaguebearers Flesh. If I have unlimited time I’d paint them all different colours, but if you have to paint a horde of Nurglings you need some tricks and shortcuts.

So after you spray them Wraithbone you do a thin (possibly actually thinned with Contrast Medium) of your favourite green, this time it was Militarum. Then I recommend a dry brush, a lighter dry brush colour than I would choose if I was edge or layer highlighting, the odd combo and top secret Nurgle colour I’ve taken to using is Foundry Paint System British Equipment Canvas A. I picked up a lot of paints to try and match the historical colours of the Vandoos.

After your dry brush you then want a wash or a glaze. Last night I finally tried Secret Weapon Baby Poop. So if you want to know why some of my Nurglings look like shit, it wasn’t an accident.

Another product I bought at Sentry Box after reading about it online is Vallejo Game Ink Black Green. I used to make my own dark green wash, because some green washes are too shiny and sometimes as second wash dulls things too much. So when I want dark greens I’ll use this ink or the baby poop or maybe one of the GW products listed above. I also want to order some more stuff I’ve read about online.

What about the pink Nurgling?

Like I said I’ve been experimenting with the Contrast paints and I’ve tried two purples: Shyish Purple and Magos Purple. The former comes out dark and shiny so you probably want to thin that with Contrast Medium. And it is so dark you’re going to have to paint a lot of highlights on it, I haven’t had enough success with it to make me want to replace my traditional purple recipes.

So that leaves Magos Purple which I put on quite thin but no actual Contrast Medium was used. I think it is easier to paint some things with Contrast paints, I wouldn’t use them everywhere for everything. Something small with folds like Nurgling skin is a good option. But then I used a product apparently few people bought and now is long gone GW Purple Glaze, these came in hexagon pots with red lids. I honestly wish I’d bought every one, as it is I have five.

As my eyes have gotten worse and I’ve tried to speed up my painting process I’ve looked to make greater use of techniques like dry brushing. I’ve always used washes, generally thinned but sometimes straight out of the pot/bottle as the manufacture designed them. The other thing I really like are these glazes. Maybe the chemistry behind Contrast paints and GW’s new shades is fancier, but that pink Nurgling was literally two coats of paint, very thin, pushed into the folds.

Guts and Boils

I was rushed finishing yesterday’s Nurglings, for today’s Nurglings I did paint some boils. Guts have gotten really easy over Wraithbone I like Fleshtearer Red, then I’ll do another quick highlight with whatever old GW red I have that has still survived. For the trivia obsessed that is Ruby Red at the moment, but any bright red will work. A wash or a glaze is also good. Sometimes I might use pink or purple for guts, but generally I stick to red.

Now boils, I have chanced upon a boil recipe that will stand out on both brown, green, and purple flesh and you can see it in action on the newest Nurgling Infested Objective. Basically paint the boil brown first. This will cover, you can use a variety of browns but today I used Terracotta Clay from Reaper Master Series. The next colour I used was red, again from Reaper Master Series, this time Clotted Blood. These are from my quest for an evil dark red for my Bezerkers and were bought at Imperial Hobbies in Richmond, the only reason to go to Richmond except maybe noodles.

Then I dab on orange and yellow. You don’t have to be that neat, I use a pretty thick dab of yellow. This time the yellows and orange were from Vallejo. I used the same yellow for the Nurgling eyes after first trying the Contrast Yellow. Then for this batch of boils I put Nurgle’s Rot over top, but you can use a thin glaze of red or yellow or orange, even purple might work.

Nurgle’s Rot

I want to like this paint and you need to shake the pot a lot and I think it benefits from multiple thin coats, but many gob it on at the end which isn’t always optimal. One of the Nurglings on the base of the model I plan to use as the champion got green vomit as opposed to guts. It was painted green, I think flat green from Vallejo then washed with the original Waaaggh Green Ink, then I did Tesseract Glow and probably should have stopped, but on the Escher Necromunda model I did Nurgle’s Rot over top.

Improved Vomit

It came out better the time before and as per the introduction I literally was painting these models this morning, so now I can get it out of the miniature case and put a thin wash over top because it lost a lot of definition that I had gotten from careful washing and highlighting. Let me stop blogging and do that.

After it dried I took another photo. Maybe I’ll paint another highlight on, this is a problem I have, I spend too much time on small parts of models sometimes, I could have had pink/purple vomit in two coats, but I like coming up with never before seen colours especially given I’ve painted so many Plague Marines, Plaguebearers, and Nurglings.

What does tomorrow hold?

Well maybe another game of Warhammer 40,000 if not the start of our nameless campaign. These 40K campaigns are supposedly a lot of book keeping. I have a journal and the biggest index cards Staples carries. I want to get a printer but Bill thinks I should get a car, until I pointed out to him that the printer was $200 dollars at Staples and the car was going to clearly cost more.

After busting my ass the last 24 hours some of the models when looked at in a blown up digital photo have obvious spots I should have touched up or highlighted further. I also don’t always get the real life colour in the photographs especially on Instagram. I’m using various magic wand buttons either on my iPhone Mini 13, or the one in Apple’s Photos or the one in GraphicConverter 11 which I think is the latest greatest version.

Sometimes the photos I take with my Panasonic DMC-GM1, my fancy lightbox, and the algorithms do worse than just a quick snap with my iPhone on my painting desk. So when I do add photos to this post it will be from a mix of cameras, apps, and algorithms.

Next Up in the Painting Queue

Bigger Base for my Lord, for my Lord

I discovered this morning that I didn’t enbiggen the base of the Chaos Lord I planned to use to start the campaign, Maceo the Maligned. I would like a Lord of Virulence but I’m trying to use models that are already bought and painted. I need to paint four more cultists to give me the minimum squad of ten fully painted models. I also want to paint another “counts as” Blightlord. It is a real Chaos Space Marine in Terminator Armour with Forgeworld Death Guard bits but it isn’t armed with the latest weapon you can only get if you buy an entire box.

I haven’t bought an entire box of Blightlords yet, but I do have a box of Plague Marines and Space Marine Heroes so three more additions to the Burning Sores will be assembled and primed next. But once the campaign starts who knows what will happen. I will get my spawn on the table, painting first then gaming, unless my Lord rolls poorly and ends up a spawn. I plan to stroll along the Path to Glory, but I have unpainted spawn and an unpainted daemon prince just in case.

A Plague Surgeon and even more themed objectives and markers will likely happen, I don’t know if that will help me win games, but it will impress Bill. I haven’t bought that model yet, nor do I have Plagueburst Crawlers, Myphitic Blight-Haulers, or Foetid Bloat-drones. Units that cost exactly 5 PL would be the easiest to add once the campaign starts and what will take the least effort is another five Plague Marines even if they don’t have Blight Launchers or any of the new snazzy magic sticks.

Five more plague marines will cost cost 6 PL…

If you have thoughts on how to paint mud, skulls, Nurglings, vomit, boils or the Death Guard in general you can leave a comment below. If you think I’m crazy to be starting a 40K campaign with no [insert the best thing in the codex] you can leave your diatribe below.

Too Many Models on my Painting Table

Never again will I have this many models on my painting table…

Never again will I have this many models on my painting table. I like to paint a few models at a time, I paint slow so even though five would be better as a legal squad size, I tend to paint in batches of four.

The Deacon

It is officially #MiniatureMonday and I took another rushed and poor photo and posted it to Instagram. I figured out why those photos were coming out so dark despite using a light box. I had the light on the lowest setting, so hopefully in the near future the quality of the photos I take will improve.

I upgraded GraphicConverter, I have the new iPhone 13 Mini, and I have another camera, I have tripods, lights, I may even buy another lamp or at least set up another one, as where my light is above my painting table is not optimal, it is too far away from the edge. I like to paint either on the edge or almost over my lap sometimes. I can of course hunch over more, but I’m not sure that is good for my bad back.

Also to start 2022 I got new glasses. Officially my vision has gotten worse every time I’ve had it tested in Calgary, so it isn’t my imagination, all those fine details, like campaign badges and unit markings I used to freehand on everything, I’m not sure how I did that. Nonetheless I’ll start with something manageable which is rebasing my Plague Marines and the observant will note the odd collection of models on the right.

Chaos Cultists

That motley crew are going to be cultists. Four of them are old lead Human Adventurers. We used to use them as Necromunda hired guns, they were given to me by Thor as he deemed them not worth painting, now someone has gone and collected them all. I primed them in Wraithbone and will be testing out contrast paint on all that fabric. I’ll probably still paint some highlights and use some washes.

I also tried to spray prime over a dozen little plastic skulls. I thought that was a good idea, but they just flew around the box. It is best to glue the basing material to the base before you prime the models, that is what I did for the Iron Claw Space Pirates although maybe only one of those models is actually in that set. I also used some of my 25mm cast resin bases. I have a bunch that size, some of them are nicer than others, but I don’t need them for Plague Marines or Chaos Space Marines.

Little Plastic Skulls are not Easy to Prime

The Deacon from the new Redemptionists gang was hard to assemble. I followed the instruction but both Bill and I agree, the cage over the mask should have been left off for ease of painting. That is one reason they are primed black, is if I miss some details it will be hidden better. Gluing the Redemptionists together was difficult, the actual plastic Chaos Cultist was two pieces and the old models were one piece metal.

To be glued on bases

If I hadn’t slacked off this evening I might have finished painting the skulls, they’ll get the contrast treatment with some highlights and maybe some extra washes or glazes. I also have two Nurglings which will be painted using contrast paints too. I plan to put a Nurgling on the champion and character bases. That seems to be a thing and an easy way to identify them, but I have a lot of champions and character models.

A lot of my terminators have weapons that Blightlords can no longer have and the only way I could field those models is as a Chaos Lord. I have several primed Death Guard or Nurgle terminators, I’m not sure they are legal now, so someday I’ll have to get the regular Chaos Codex to see how the Diseased Sons due as Nurgle Renegades. But this year I’m focusing on using just the Death Guard Codex.

I had big plans for this blog update, I really did spend a lot of time painting and assembling models on the weekend. I’m slow and in the future I will only have 5 or so models to base or paint at a time. I’m going to get the big block off the table, then I might finish up some Nurglings and the Escher model only the fine details remain and maybe my new glasses and another lamp will help.

If you have thoughts on priming, basing, or the Death Guard codex you can leave them below.

The Great Rebasing Begins

Astute observers may remember I previously rebased my terminators and my Beasts of Nurgle…

Astute observers may remember I previously rebased my terminators and my Beasts of Nurgle, but for 9th Edition of Warhammer 40,000 I’ve decided to rebase if not my entire Diseased Sons army, then at least the models I’m most likely to use.

Due to Bill’s fascination with all things campaign we will be playing a crusade, for real this time, he means it. So I dutifully picked out 50 PL worth of stuff I basically own even if it isn’t armed perfectly let alone optimally. I threw in some cultists even though I haven’t painted a minimum squad size, I may have to run some partially painted ones depending on when our first game is. I also will rebase the 20 or so models needed to start the campaign that are clearly on the wrong base size for 9th Edition.

Set up my paints on a small dedicated desk

I actually started on this daunting task the other night, before and even while writing my previous blog post. I remember filing little tiny metal skulls I got from Black Cat Bases, but I also plan to raid the bitz box for bitz to scatter on bases. Going forward I’ll acquire more 32 mm and likely even some 40 mm resin bases. I have many 25 mm ones. So cultists may get some very nice bases, though perhaps not the first batch.

Because I’m old, I’ve got a lot of painted, unpainted, and even some models I’m repainting from the 90s. Some may be older still with sculpts dating back to the 80s but I first played Warhammer 40,000 in 1993 I think. I used to save models and bitz for future conversions, but now I just want to get a usable and hopefully fun to play army on the table top. I might convert a sorcerer in terminator armor, but to start the campaign I just plan to use McFly. Malignant Plaguecasters should be on a 32 mm base it appears, but most HQ is on a 40 mm base or bigger.

Last Friday I got a new iPhone, an iPhone 13 mini, but it was not a smooth transition and I still am trying to set it up perfectly, I may never get WeChat to work again. It seems to be trying to move all 21,000 photos I’ve ever taken on to it, which is not what I want Apple. One upside of a new iPhone is better quality pictures, I actually plan to rephotograph my army, starting with a few snaps every #ThrowbackThursday which starts tomorrow if you’re on the ‘Gram. But I’ve also noticed my header images are always dark. I use a program called GraphicConverter and have used it for many years. Apparently I am two versions behind. It has a lot of options, but I think something happens when I alter the canvas size that darkens the image, I also wonder if my WordPress theme is doing something weird, none of the other photos end up so dark.

Editing Photos of Miniatures

Just like I don’t know everything about 40K, I don’t know everything about editing images. I do have thirty bucks and I do support small independent developers and have done so for over twenty years, so I’m upgraded to GraphicsConverter 11 and using some new options replaced the featured image for this post. It’ll be too late for keener RSS feeds but it looks a bit better. With my lightbox, new iPhone and an actual Panasonic digital camera on a shelf beside me, there really is no excuse to keep taking crappy photos, other than I’m in a hurry. It is once again after midnight, that seems the only way I get updates done on my website sometime, sacrifice sleep, it isn’t like I have a social life anymore.

Stripping Paint Off Old Models

Before Pinesol

Oh well, people who don’t take the time to look around will think I’m a terrible painter or photographer. Also late last night I searched and found a few classic sculpts that I won’t paint right away, but want to tackle before I my eyesight gets worse. This includes the copy I bought used at Sentry Box of one of my favourite Nurgle Renegades. It was painted, but I stripped it using 1 part Pinesol and 3 parts water. I don’t know if that is the optimal ratio or product, but Pinesol is less harsh on plastic, the backpack may have gotten a little soft and one little nib may have broken off, but as you can see by the photos after about a 12 hour soak you can scrub most of the paint off with a toothbrush easily.

Model in Pinesol and water

I stripped a few orks, but I haven’t seen those models recently, maybe I didn’t strip them, I just sorted them for stripping, but repainting old Rogue Trader era models or early 2nd Edition models has little appeal. I’d rather rebase them and get them back on the table under the current rules. I’ve decided my demons can stay on square bases, they are all metal. I won’t be putting any more demons on square bases though. Bill never asks to play 2nd Edition 40K or 4th Edition WFB.

I’ll give it a go over with a metal pin next

We are very busy at work, so most days I take a nap when I finish working and I really want to get back into the habit of exercising, so my painting time is limited. I want to rebase and enhance the bases on my existing models, but most of the models I paint will be better than battle ready, but maybe not quite up to the standard I was capable of 20 years ago. I just don’t have the same motivation and work really is busy. Maybe in Q3 I’ll have more time.

If you have thoughts on the best ways to strip paint off old minis or how to rebase models for the current editions of Games Workshop games or even tips and tricks for photographing your miniatures and editing those photographs on you Mac, you can leave a comment below.

Rebased Terminators

I would have liked to have had them finished two days ago, but I spent a lot of time waiting for paint to dry, for washes to dry, for glue to dry, for modeling paste to dry. I’ve now rebased all my old terminators on 40mm round bases and can move on to painting new models.

All the Nurgle Terminators I rebased

A lot of steps went into getting them to look like this, including many, many, many hours spent painting the miniatures themselves. The Right Hard Posse was never designed as one big squad, it consists of a lot of extra models and was actually painted as some HQ choices and a couple small squads. Having put all this work into it over the years, I’m going to give the ten man squad a run at this year’s Astronomi-con Vancouver.

Fresh Sprue
Fresh Sprue

In order to get yet more bits to choose from I busted open two boxes of plastic GW models I’ve owned for years. The Goblins weren’t any use, though I was surprised to find Wolf Rider parts and four banner bits in this box. The Flagellants were useful. This box is great for bits. You get two of everything and lots of spare parts such as heads or little bits of chains. The rest of the plastic, metal, and resin bits came from my bitz box and my mountain of sprue.

After gluing the bitz to the bases, I then busted out some modeling paste I had bought.  This wasn’t in the original plan, but some people sware by products like this as a basing material. You can mix paint with it so it can be any colour. You can cut it after it dries, you can even add grit to it. It goes on like icing a cake. I used it to fill in the gaps between the big and small base, but perhaps I should have done this first and then stuck the plastic model bits into the paste, but it was a new product to me, and I never thought of that until it was too late.

Modeling Paste
Modeling Paste

After the paste dried, it looked a lot like snow bases, I’m sure some people have used it for that. One benefit of gluing the bitz to the base is you can then sink them into the ground with paste or just sand and glue. The white paste got a layer of watered down white glue then a dip into my box of beach sand and then another lengthy drying period.

Next came several coats of black paint. The first was regular consistency, the next two were watered down. I recommend gluing sand, and whatever else you plan to use as basing materials to the base during the model assembly phase. That way if you use spray primer you don’t have to go through the repeated coats of black paint that I did. Spray primer does a good job on sand. This is one advantage I have over those paint the model in pieces or mounted on a handle people.

Drybrushing was next, the usual three GW manufactured brown paints. I used a small drybrush, and was a bit heavy, but I’d never get every base to be perfectly the same or the sand to match that was old and with the new. Especially because the old sand was really fine. I like beach sand as it is irregular.

Terminators with modeling paste
Terminators with modeling paste

I started with the metallic bits. They got painted chainmail, followed by two washes, one of Badaab Black and one of Devlan Mud. I also painted some brass bits using Tin Bitz and Brazen Brass. I used a custom thinned Rust Brown Ink with some Plasma Red Ink for them. I also painted the skulls Snake Bite Leather then Bleached Bone. They two got the Rust Brown plus Plasma Red Ink wash.

After all that was dry the metal were done and the skulls looked pretty good, but I put a highlight of Vallejo Beige on them which looked two harsh so another custom wash was used, this time a darker brown mixed with red.  That was it for the skulls. The various heads were painted Dhenab Stone then given a wash, of thinned down purple. Then a highlight of Dhenab Stone. Other bits were painted purple, or red, or brown. I even tried out my English Uniform Brown that I ordered from the Vallejo range.

When all this was done it was time for rust and blood. I did the rust first mixing up a custom wash consisting of water, rust brown ink, and Fiery Orange plus some left over half dried pigments that remain in my rust wash mixing spot…  For the blood I used Tamiya Clear Red and the Lonewolf Blood and Gore method or my interpretation of it.  This really gave the models I nice final touch and it was off to the photo booth.

Sand applied to bases
Sand applied to bases

The squad was pretty much too big to photograph at once.  It worked better as a squad of five models.  I also took some individual model shots all of which are up on Flickr.

Nurgle Terminator with backbanner

Now I’m at a cafe as it is so cold in Vancouver. This weekend I’ll continue to look for a new job, but also start on some Lead Painters’ League entries.  I hope to finish one or two weeks worth before returning to models for my armies.

Old Chaos Terminator Updated