Old Stuff Day

Someone decided today was the day old bloggers, post old stuff, about old minis or something.  I’m not sure.  I finished painting my naked chicks, but I can’t show anyone a photo for fear of offending Zee Germans.  They are however old models that I got in a trade in I think 1996.  Remember 1996?  That was Warhammer 40,000 2nd Edition.  Also known as the big one, as that was the edition that had the first box with models and rules.  I still have unpainted models from that box… Old Stuff Day Logo

I’m known online and in Vancouver for painting old out of print models.  I’m also known for still working on my old armies, rather than start a shiny new army, so old stuff day is a bit redundant for me.  This blog is only a little over a year old, but I’ve been blogging for over five years and posting pictures of my minis to the Internet for even longer…  So lets see what old stuff should I recommend to Malcolm, oh wait Malcolm can’t be bothered to read this blog, as he thought my naked chicks were in fact Daemonettes…

Here is a few years old post showing some of the top painted Chaos Space Marine models in my collection.

In 2006 I went to see my friend Thor in Nanaimo and took a few photos of his minis.  He was working at GW Burnaby last time I saw him.

Every few years I try to paint some Goblins in the hopes of getting a painted Goblin army on the table.  The new book is out and one has my name on it at the LGS, so here is the command group from one of my big blocks of Night Goblins that I painted back in 2006.

I’ve painted a few models that have become famous and people have talked about them in foreign languages on boards you’ve never heard of.  I know this because I look at web analytics and do Google Image searches and such.  Blastmarker Billy is one of those famous models.

If you want to go really old school, here is an army list, and the surviving members of the army I took to CanGames in 1997, when I won my only Warhammer 40,000 tournament.

I should still take more pictures of my old models, people ask me to on forums, but I don’t have the really fancy camera and I just would rather work on adding to my painted miniature collection rather than documenting every model I’ve ever painted.  None the less a lot of photos have been posted to my vanity domain over the years, but the best of them are on Flickr now too.   I guess I’ll throw in a few inline images from there and call this post done.  ;-)

Goblin Command

Beasts Of Nurgle

The oldest plastic GW ork

Shuttle and escorts for Silent Death


Precision Engineering

My re-based Beasts of Nurgle
My re-based Beasts of Nurgle

So my trip to the doctor didn’t happen.  I was tired, I laid down for a bit, I didn’t get up for quite a while.  I’ll bike to the doctor tomorrow, I just need to get a prescription refilled.  While I was slacking off, glue was drying.  My UHU warped my DIY ‘monster’ bases some, but I think that will gradually go away.  Not only did I put UHU underneath the sand in an attempt to fix the warping I put watered down white glue on top of it.  That sand isn’t going anywhere.

When the glue was dry I reached into my bit box and got some 28mm metal skulls made by Black Cat Bases.  You can get 100 of these for some special price.  Like anything they need a little cleaning, which is a bit awkward working on such a tiny metal piece.  After some filing I tried gluing them to the bases.  I used UHU again, though if my super glue hadn’t dried out… I’ve never tried using UHU to glue metal to plastic and sand, but I have used it to glue a variety of stuff in my trench making project along with Wellbond.  The glue really needs more time to dry, but I gave it the tip upside down test just now and with the exception of a little cat liter it passed.

Bases decorated with bits
Bases decorated with bits

So besides skulls and cat liter I raided the Citadel plastic zombie sprues for some guts and a stray arm.  I then found half an old plastic shield and I glued that to Sluggie’s base.  With the Beasts of Nurgle drying it was time to make the Plaguebearers movement tray.

I used the same piece of balsa wood I used to make the ‘monster’ bases, but I used a different exacto knife.  You need the best exacto knife you have to make precision cuts of the wood. I think my grandfather gave me this one, it has a hard plastic handle with a metal attachment.  I also got out my metal square, though I used the wooden ruler for measuring.  After measuring twice I repeatedly drew the exacto knife over the pencil line, using the square as a guide.  It didn’t go perfectly but it went better with this knife.  You don’t have to cut the wood in one pass, ten passes even might not cut through the wood.  When you’re mostly through you can try breaking it, then with a tiny bit of sanding you’re good to go.

Plaguebearers in movement tray test
Plaguebearers in movement tray test

I got out another piece of balsa I bought for my trenches, this one is about 4mm by 4mm thick.  One side seems wider than the other so I used the larger measurement.  After allowing for the wood lip to overlay the movement tray base, I got out my plaguebearers for a test fit.  I thought I was going to have to glue another piece to the back, but it fits pretty good with only a tiny bit of acceptable overhang.  In a perfect world I’d put a lip on the back, but that was too nice a fit already to mess with.

I cut the ends and got out a whole bunch of little orange clamps I got at Home Depot years ago.  These really saved the day or made the project.  I retired the UHU and used the Wellbond and made sure to use my finger to completely cover the edge pieces.  Then I wiped away excess glue on the side, then finally placed it on the base and clamped it down.  I repeated this two more times with the sides.  Again any slight overhang I just plan to sand off.

Why hobbists need clamps
Why hobbists need clamps

I took some pictures, then I got out the ruler and too another picture.  It appears to have 25 cm of interior space.  I’m not sure if the Plaguebearer bases are supposed to be one inch or 25mm, I believe because the game originated in England, 25mm is the official measurement, but even then there might be a mm of space.  With 25cm of interior width my Neatherworldly Mathematicians should ride comfortably in their new movement tray.

It’s gotten hot again, possibly good for drying the glue.  Later tonight or tomorrow I will sand as necessary and paint black the bases and movement trays, likely using the Delta Ceramcoat.  Then I’ll do some drybrushing…  I was going to glue sand to the edges of the movement tray but now I’m undecided…  I probably will. That means more drying time but I have until noon on Sunday the 25th to complete this stuff for the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires campaign at Strategies.

25 cm wide custom movement tray
25 cm wide custom movement tray

The Beast must go on

After my brief brush with infamy, I stayed up too late surfing dubious web content but managed to get up earlier than usual, actually in the morning.  After taking care of some unpleasant mundane tasks, I got back to work on my Nurgle Daemon army for the start of Sunday’s Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires campaign.

The final three plaguebearers are sealed and drying and I dug out my three old Beasts of Nurgle as apparently they need to be re-based. I even looked into buying ‘monster’ bases but in the end just decided to make some out of balsa wood since I have quite the stockpile of that material due to my trench table project.  This was not super simple, I used a thicker piece and it neither cut well with a little jewelers saw nor with a possibly old dull exacto knife.  I got the shapes sanded the edges a tad and then discovered that ‘cavalry’ bases are longer than ‘monster’ bases.

Beasts of Nurgle being rebased
Beasts of Nurgle being rebased

I thought they fit under perfectly but there is a big overhang.  Ripping my old multi-piece metal Beasts of Nurgle off their bases was not an option.  I remember what a pain in the ass these models were to assemble.  it is amazing they’ve never broken, probably because in game terms they are usually horrible and thus never used.  In the end it didn’t matter I don’t plan on making a bigger unit of these guys, it is the front and width that need to be right, you can go as deep as you want I imagine.

If you notice, in the difficult to take picture, I set the Beasts up so one is on the extreme left of its base, one on the extreme right and one in the middle.  This is due to the tentacles which stick out past even the wider ‘monster’ base.

Now I’m off to the doctor’s office.  When I return hopefully the sand is glued to the base and the model is glued to the base, I used ‘magic German glue’ called UHU which I got at an office supply store.  I’ve been supplementing my Wellbond with that, especially when gluing sand to model bases.

Hopefully by the end of today I have the Beasts re-based, my movement tray done, and can rank up the 40 Plaguebearers for the family photo.  Then I’ll get back to working on some test models and then finally I’ll finish off this year’s Astronomi-con Vancouver tournament army.  This weekend is Astro Winnipeg, the original which should see some fresh photos and stories appearing online elsewhere which I’ll try to link to.