Revising Waaagh Musk 40K

As mentioned yesterday I actually got out the Ork Codex and wrote out a 1500 point army list.  I tried to use as many of the painted models as I could legally, but I also left room for some new conversions and the new kits, particularly the Trukk and Battlewagon kits GW has released over the last couple years.

Once again I couldn’t sleep last night, so before taking a pill, I wrote a slightly different and more flexible army list.  This list isn’t 1500 points, it is 1392 points.  It is the core of Waaagh Musk for the next year or two.  It still has two Big Meks and still has two Dreads as Troops, it still has too mobs of Shoota boys, and two Looted Wagons.  What it doesn’t have is either Burna Boyz or Lootas.  Both seem good to me, most stuff in the Codex seems good, though obviously I’ll learn the hard way that BS 2 isn’t as good as BS 4.  Oh well, this army is most definitely just for fun.  Orks are the fun army, the comic relief army, and I’m going to try and have some fun building and converting my army to work with this Codex and 5th Edition Warhammer 40,000.

Still WIP Gretchin
Still WIP Gretchin

Tonight I have modest dinner plans, but who knows when they will end.  I also did the laundry today, but minutiae like that isn’t why people come to my blog.  I’m still painting grots. I’ve decided to finish off the two nicer ones today and leave the third one at the end of the paint queue to be finished at a more leaseieruely pace.  I’m paint the black parts black with my now traditional Foundry Charcoal Black Triad plus Badaab Black wash system.  I’ll probably highlight a tad more.  The grey jerkin just got a wash of Badaab Black.  Again some people drown grey in black wash and then call it highlighted black, that isn’t really my style.  I plan to paint on some highlights but I’ll take a picture first.

After the black/grey jerkins and boots, all that requires painting is the skull, the belt and ammo pouches, and of course eyes and teeth.  Totally doable in an hour or so.  So I’m not sure when but this evening I’ll publish this blog post with shots of the finished models and update Flickr.

In the mean time here is Waaagh Musk in brief:

  • HQ: Big Mek #1 “Lone Gunman” with Shokk Attack gun and stuff 105 points
  • HQ: Big Mek #2 “Musk” with Burna, Warbike, and lots of stuff 128 points
  • TR: “Black Knight” Dread with two Kustom Kombi Weapons 105 points
  • TR: “Rainbow Warrior” Dread with one Kustom Kombi Weapon and one Rokkit 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axe Shoota Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Boss Pole 97 points
  • HS: “Big Burna” Looted Rhino with Skorcha, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 90 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moon Shoot Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Power Klaw, Boss Pole, Trukk, Boarding Plank 162 points
  • HS: “Gobsmasha” Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 130 points
  • HS: Battlewagon with Killa Kannon and other stuff including Zzap Gun 185 points
  • EL: Nobz Mob with Waaagh Banner, Pain Boy, Grot Orderly, Boss Pole, Power Klaw and likely more 140+ points
  • –: Nobz ride, Battlewagon with Deff Rolla, Zzap Gun, and other stuff 150 points
Two contrasting Gretchin
Two contrasting Gretchin

This army will score higher in Astronomi-con army comp as it only has one Elite choice.  It currently has no Fast Attack choice but I plan to try out all of them except Storm Boyz.  My unfinished Storm Boy conversions which I forgot I even started have been demoted to ground pounder status.  All my red, black, and white models are in one big mob.  I actually took four one piece metal models out of that mob last night and put them with the models I plan to strip, as they had shootas not sluggas in the current parlance.  That squad is 20 strong now and has two big shootas.

That squad has no Nob as all the white, black, and red nobz and all the oddboyz are on another shelf.  Some of them will get used I’m sure, but I have so many unpainted models both OOP and from AoBR that it will be hard for me to use all of them under the current rules.  Oh well I’ll touch them up and update their bases.  I looked at the pictures in the Codex and heavily armored Nobz, Big Meks, and Warbosses get 40mm bases, not all nobz, though some follow that practice.  I might but I need a lot of 40mm round bases.

I have so many things I want to paint, we’ll see when the Blood Axes, who I plan to do first, finally make it on to the painting table.  I’ll eventually be doing a lot of new Nobz and Fast Attack choices including some Deff Koptas as I like to outflank and I think anti-armor despite the ordnance, the Shokk Attack gun, and lots of rokkits already…  Anyway I have six Deff Koptas so I may paint up five, though they are expensive.  Orks at least have lots of Power Klaws, though I only have two in my army so far, I’ll put one on a Warbikker Nob for sure.

Primered Black Gretchin

Primered Grey Gretchin

Continuing the Gretchin

Yesterday I started on three Gretchins, one with a black base coat and a traditional dark to light green skin highlighting technique, the other two with grey base coats and more experimental flesh painting.  I couldn’t leave well enough alone so late last night I did another wash, this time of Gryphonne Sepia on just the two grey primered models.

Finished Green Skin
Finished Green Skin

The first color I wanted to test painting over grey, was of course white.  The easiest way I know to get a good white over a black base coat is to use Astronomican Grey then paint white over that.  So that is what I did to the black primered gretchin.  Actually the first thing I did was fix up the base coats, the black model required a lot less touchups than the wash heavy models.  The final thing I did to this models trousers was to paint a tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia into the recesses and creases.  I may do another quick white highlight.

White pants Yellow boot
White pants Yellow boot

The better primed grey Gretchin, the one without the squig, also got white trousers.  I just went straight Skull White over the primer.  It didn’t work too well.  I pressed on and mixed up a thinned down wash made from Codex Grey, this was applied liberally to the pants.  This had to dry for a bit, so it was time to type and wait.  After that I’ll definitely be painting another layer of white on the pants.

The next hardest color to paint over black is yellow.  This has gotten easier due to Iyanden Dark Sun.  I used that right over the black.  Over the grey I opted for Golden Yellow.  This is an older pot that Owen gave me.  It is a good darker richer yellow, but it is best to use it over another color even orange…  However it went right over the grey OK…  We’ll see how it looks after a wash and some highlights.

Next for the black primered model was a coat of Golden Yellow, for the grey primered model I went with a thinned down orange wash made from Windsor & Newton Orange Ink.  Next for the black primered model was Gryphonne Sepia wash on the yellow bootie.  I did a highlight of Sunburst Yellow on the other bootie, this is an even older GW paint pot.  Finally I got out my Badmoon Yellow paint pot and painted that on both booties.  Neither is winning any prizes, I still think for painting yellow it is best to start from an orange or brown basecoat.

Painting orange and yellow
Painting orange and yellow

The next color I wanted to try was Orange it also benefits from a Foundation color, but can still be a tricky color to get right, not as tricky as yellow though…  I think the wooden part of the autogun will be orange on both models.  You can see how the undercoat makes a difference on how a color looks when just using a single coat.

The next color I used after taking the photo was Blood Angel Orange, that’s right Orange! Paul Taylor traded me this pot for some color I had doubles of back in the 90s.  It is pretty thin and actually darker than Macharius Solar Orange so maybe it should have gone on before, but it doesn’t have near the amount of pigment or covering properties.  After that was dry it was time for Fiery Orange which is a really useful color for Ork players as is Macharius Solar Orange as you can use it to make nice rust washes…

Beginning Metals
Beginning Metals

I actually bought a new bright orange, called Fire Orange from Reaper Master Series line of paints so I used that for edge highlights next.  I still was feeling like it could be better so I used Golden Yellow which is a pretty dark yellow.  That’s enough sometimes I don’t like to use Yellow to highlight Orange or Red but sometimes I do it…  Next up is metallics where a black basecoat has advantage over white but not necessarily grey…

I put Boltgun metal straight from the pot on various parts of the three Gretchin then took a photo.  One of my new gritty metallic recipes is to cover boltgun metal with two new GW washes first black then mud.  After they have dried I paint highlights on with Chainmail or Silver.  For these models having already painted parts of the models orange, white, and yellow I have to be even more careful with the washes.  I don’t come from the new school where you just slather the mini in magic wash…

I think that is about all that is going to get done this evening.  I’ll try to work on them more tomorrow.  Writing the tutorials and comparing the color combos makes things go slower.  After a few more colors bone, brown, black, and grey plus possibly blue I’ll be mostly done and just blitzkrieg through.