Revised 8th Edition Goblins and Ork army list

Last night or this morning I was lying in bed thinking of changes I could make to my Warhammer armies to try to actually win a game of Warhammer Fantasy Battle in 8th Edition. There isn’t much I can do with an all Nurgle Daemon army at 1500 points. I can add or subtract Plaguebearers, Nurglings, and Beasts of Nurgle and none of them have done much on the table top. The Herald of Tzeentch might keep a few more of my models from dying in the magic phase but in general I have to play with the models I have painted.

New brushes and white paint
New brushes and white paint

After finishing the sorcerer I picked up yet more hobby supplies and looked for work. A lot of jobs seem to be good fits for me this week and I talked to a CEO of a startup so maybe my third lengthy period of unemployment post-MBA will finally come to an end. I really don’t care what I do, any experience will obviously help me, and I need money as I have too much debt. But that’s not what my few readers care about.

I just finished writing a new army list at 1500 points, as that is the magic number at Strategies. Bigger games obviously are possible as I have a lot of models painted and quite a few unpainted unlike the Daemon army which is mostly painted except for a few odds and sods OOP models. My army list is goblin heavy and I’ve been trying to embrace that.   even tried to go all goblins, but in the end I couldn’t say no to a 5 point bully and the Big Waaagh spell list. So my 1500 point army list actually has 2 orks in it. My 2000 point army list will have more orks and to save on painting but also so I can have a magic banner (Mork’s Spirit Totem) I’m breaking my vow of no Big ‘Uns. I’m still unlikely to have Black Orks, though some Savage Orks might be fun, especially if new plastic models are in the pipe line as rumored.

Picking my daemon list is easy, my Ork and Goblin list takes a lot more time. I have a lot more options, even with only a few units actually painted. I painted so many goblins (with a tiny bit of help) that I can add or remove dozens of models from units, which doesn’t do that much, but it means I pick my CORE last. I pick my warmachines first as I want them to be central to my army. They shoot over the goblins, which in turn shoot and cast spells at the enemy until they get annoyed and charge or I get to cast one of the movement spells and opt for a surprise charge. The Fanatics of course get in the way of the enemy.

Having dealt with Leadership 4 Night Goblin mercenaries I’ve been thinking of ways to increase my leadership. I still don’t want an Ork general, but I can switch to a Goblin Warboss for one more leadership over the Night Goblin Warboss I added last time I revised the army list. I also decided to put him in with the unit of spearmen and to move my Goblin Battle Standard Bearer to the big unit of archers as that will keep them from running away better than the sorcerer who I had leading the unit. My yet to arrive new Night Goblin Boss figure will still go with the blue archers, but he’ll be demoted to Big Boss and I doubt I’ll bulk that unit up anymore. This all means that I need to paint two hero goblins, which will be a pleasure, something like seven warmachine crew and then base up everything that doesn’t have it’s base finished, which is every model not in this picture.

Night Goblin Archer Horde

So without further ado here is the army list:

  • SPECIAL: Rock Lobber with Bully 75pts
  • RARE: 2 Doom Divers 160pts
  • LORD: Goblin Warboss with light armor, shield, Talisman of Preservation, and Martog’s Best Basha 131pts
  • LORD: Night Goblin Great Shaman with Staff of Sneaky Stealing, Amulet of Protectyness, and Magic Mushrooms 235pts
  • HERO: Goblin Big Boss Battle Standard Bearer with light armor and the Spider Banner 112pts
  • HERO: Night Goblin Big Boss with light armor, shield, Mad Cap Mushrooms, and Ulag’s Akrit Axe 79pts
  • HERO: Ork Shaman, Level 2 Wizard with the Horn of Urgok 140pts
  • CORE: Blue Archers, 24 Night Goblins with Bows, Full Command, 3 Fanatics, and Nets 202pts
  • CORE: Purple Archers, 28 Night Goblins with Bows, Full Command, and 2 Fanatics 154pts
  • CORE: Spearmen, 44 Goblins with Spears, Shields, and Light Armour plus Full Command 240pts

After working out all my heroes which I really need to keep the goblins from running away and to try not to get dominated in the magic phase, I priced out all the blue archers, this is my smallest unit, but with max Fanatics and Nets and a Big Boss geared offensively they are both my most expendable unit and the one I’d like to send out first from my lines. I’d just as soon not get into H2H with the other units as their main goal is to keep their heroes alive.

I also moved the Mad Cap Mushrooms to the Big Boss, this unit is almost completely painted and should be easier to base and make the movement tray for as it is half the size of the other archer unit.

Goblin Army

For the purple archers I wanted to make them a Horde so that meant three rows of at least ten. They also have two heroes the Battle Standard Bearer for his Leadership 7 and the Night Goblin Shaman who is the most expensive model in my army. Hopefully even at Level 3 he can do a good job at dispelling and combined with his Sneaky Staff he should. The Magic Mushrooms are just for fun and so that I can avoid an unlucky failed casting. The Ork Shaman is my offensive magical force. He should have better spells and at 2000 points he’ll be a lot more powerful due to the unit of Big ‘Uns, Waaagh Paint, and Mork’s Spirit Totem. I really think both my armies will start to come into their own at 2000 points…

The last unit I priced out was the biggest. Previously I’d stubbornly insisted on fielding 65 Goblins with spears as that is how they are ranked up in my miniature case, but honestly once you get past four rows of ten, the rest are mainly human shields and based on how my games have gone lots of my models get killed before they get to fight anything. I think this army will do most of it’s damage in the shooting and magic phase with my heroes occasionally having a good round of H2H. The rank and file mainly will die in droves. In order to maximize my Fanatics as much as possible the final unit ended up being 44 strong with full command. This will necessitate me making three more movement trays to play this army at 1500 points but that’s alright, they aren’t as much work as painting and basing the actual models. Eventually maybe I’ll have a whole collection of custom movement trays.

I haven’t priced it out, but I know what I want to add at 2000 points. Waaagh Paint and Mork’s Spirit Totem and a unit of Big ‘Uns on foot with Choppas and Shields will eat up most of the points, but I’m tempted to buy another small Night Goblin Shaman just to get certain other magic items, like say a Dispell Scroll but honestly with all the anti-magic I will have thanks to other magic items I don’t really need it. Usually when someone really wants to cast a spell they risk the miscast to get Irresistible Force. I’ll also probably bulk up the purple goblin units a bit as I have the models painted, unlike the Orks on foot which I only have a handful painted.

I wanted to do a Horde of Orks but honestly I haven’t benefited much from the new Horde rule. I think I’ve fielded the two largest units in the Mighty Empires Campaign and I’ve yet to win. I think higher initiative is still more important than just masses of expendable bodies. Leadership is even more important than Initiative which is why I fitted in the Horn of Urgok into this army list. That will increase my Leadership army wide with a one in six chance of the Shaman carrying it taking a wound. That’ll probably be the first thing I try to cast every Magic Phase, at least while the Shaman has two wounds.

Horde of Plaguebearers with Banners

Glowing Green Paint Effect

So I’d always planned on doing the Bloodletter’s sword green and the armour of the sorcerer green, so I once again cooked up a one of kind or in this case a two of a kind colour that looks like it glows. The key to the glowing effect is to go very bright/light with the highlights and start very dark with the lowlights. Washes and glazes are also essential to my technique. I’m not sure I can make it work with any colour but it works with green and blue, I generally use it on power weapons or magic weapons. Purple can work too, but you have to highlight up to pink and that scares some people.

Bloodletter with Green Hellblade
Bloodletter with Green Hellblade

To get the effect seen here I had a black base coat. I then painted Orkhide Shade over it, the new GW Foundation darkest green. Then I really needed an inbetween shade, but I didn’t have one so I mixed Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Game Colour Sick Green. Then I think I did a pure Sick Green highlight, I can’t remember exactly it was yesterday. To keep the colour dark and scary I mixed up a wash of about 5 parts water, 2 parts old GW Green Wash, and 1 part Black Ink. Basically a much darker green wash, but still thinned so it would flow into the recesses.

After that dried I got out Sick Green again and starting working up the highlights. I didn’t really have a good inbetween shade, so I mixed in an old GW Jade Green. With the mixed colour and then pure Jade Green painted on as a highlight I then did a second wash. This time a thinned down Waaagh Green Ink which is an extremely old GW/Citadel product. When that was dry I started highlighting Jade Green again, but I also wanted to darken a few spots so I used the new GW Green Wash just in a few spots.

Sorcerer with green armour
Sorcerer with green armour

Then more Jade Green and the first green glaze. GW used to make them, they were under appreciated by their clientele I wish I had them all, but I only have a few, they have red lids. Vallejo makes some glazes, I saw them at Imperial Hobbies today.  After some Jade Green and green glaze I wanted to go more extreme so I got out this bottle of Green Grey Vallejo Model Colour #971. I mixed this with the Jade Green on my P3 Wet Palette. I then painted this pale highlight on. Then another green glaze then an even paler extreme highlight was done and it was off to my bedroom to take the photos.

As I mentioned I went to Imperial Hobbies today and bought some more paint and a couple of brushes. The brushes were disappointing but they were cheap. Tomorrow I will go and buy some Deserres brushes that I’ve gotten used to, they hold their point pretty good and come in all sorts of sizes. I also bought some very bright or light colours which I’ll use on the Tzeentch and Slaneesh models I seem to be doing up, but mainly they are for the future. The Mr. Color Steel and the Flat Green will get used sooner, as might the Sky Grey.

The Gale Force 9 flock I bought the day before to use on the Goblins and other bases going forward. I’m trying to use a variety of material, instead of just sand all the time.

More Hobby Supplies
More Hobby Supplies

3 WIP Chaos Models

Today I’ve done a lot of painting, I got up early and I kept at it for most of the day. I’m working on three different chaos models. The first is my second test bezerker, the second is an old OOP Bloodletter which I’m painting up to be a generic lesser daemon, but mainly I’m practicing my dark purple skin tone technique, the final model is another old chaos model, this one is still in print, non-the-less mine is lead and will serve as a Herald of Tzeentch come Sunday at Strategies.

Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker
Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker

What I really should be working on is my Astronomi-con Vancouver army, but their is a method to my madness. The Khorne Bezerker is serving as a test model for my Forgeworld Khorne Terminator Lord conversion. The Bloodletter is a test model for a bigger daemon. Even the sorcerer could be argued that it is a test model, as I need to get that flashy look for my Slaneesh Sorcerer I’ll take to the tournament.

Well with all the time I put in, I could have put in even more, and none of the models are finished. I had hoped to start on three other models today, but tomorrow will do. I did a lot of work on the Bezerker’s red armour, the Bloodletter’s purple skin, and the sorcerer’s grey robe.

The model I’ve done the least on since the last blog post is the Bezerker. I finished the purple flames using the Foundry Royal Purple Triad pretty much as they intended. I’ve been having brush troubles today. Several brushes were retired and I couldn’t find a good ‘0’ or ’00’. I’ve been focusing on speed and buying and using bigger brushes, that now when I want to paint flames or fine highlights my tools are letting me down. Tomorrow I will invest in some new brushes. I’m tempted to go to Imperial Hobbies because a few gaps have appeared in my paint collection. Specifically I need a green between Orkhide Shade and say VMC Sick Green. I ended up making one…

Building up Purple and Grey Highlights
Building up Purple and Grey Highlights

So the greens on the Bezerker are for his seems or tubes or whatever. I painted them Orkhide Shade then tried to go right to Sick Green but it ended up looking way too Christmas tree-ish. I then mixed a darker green for the other models. I also had troubles getting the green in the tiny gaps without damaging my red or grey highlights. The other thing I did on the Bezerker was it’s ‘silver’ metallic stuff. I didn’t use silver, but rather GW’s Chainmail. This was way too shiny, so another dark gunmetal colour would be nice too. I can darken Chainmail with Badaab Black and Devlan Mud wash but there is always a risk of spillage or seepage, so I think I’d prefer an even simpler metal. I have Boltgun Metal but I think something even darker than that would find many uses in my painting.

Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze
Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze

The Bloodletter got his skin finished off. It came out pretty well, but eventually I just had to say enough because I have bigger models to work on and I need to get them done within two weeks. Thankfully I’m unemployed… The skin was painted GW’s Liche Purple twice. I let black come through, I missed painting a little bit of stuff on one shoulder, I thought it was a necklace but it was his collar bone. After that I think I did the first part of Foundry’s Royal Purple Triad, but perhaps before that a custom dark purple wash. Then I worked up the Royal Purple Triad followed by a thinned old purple wash. Then it was basically Royal Purple Triad Highlight along with some glazes. I might go slightly pinker maybe to Warlock Purple on the big fella, we’ll see how it looks and how much time it takes.

I also did some striations. Yet another place where I needed a good sharp point. I actually have some really tiny brushes, but I need zeros and double zeros too.

An extremely highlighted grey robe
An extremely highlighted grey robe

The Sorcerer got a pretty surreal grey robe. I didn’t use that many different greys, basically just GW ones, two Foundation ones, and one regular one. In fact I chucked out a light grey, which doing some inventory I think I need four colours and I’m going to try non-GW ones, preferably in the dropper style bottles. Sometimes they come out too much, but generally they are pretty easy to work with, for super common colours I like the flip tops like black and white or metallics which I keep out of my P3 Wet Palette.

The robe got a wash of Badaab Black but that didn’t go as well as I would like so future washes were custom made by me out of old Black GW Wash. I did two, one thinned and one really thinned. I also built up the highlights to Astronomicon Grey, but then I went even higher mixing in some white. I also painted in lowlights. This was partly to get rid of unwanted shine, but mainly as it looked good. I got the aforementioned thin brush and painted black lines into folds. I also painted on more folds than were sculpted using various greys. This is a technique I use on skin too, such as the striations.

Building up Green highlights
Building up Green highlights

After I was satisfied with the robe I touched up the black and waited until the Bezerker was ready to do green. I wanted a different green, working towards an old pot of GW Jade Green, possibly going even brighter. I started off with Orkhide Shade, leaving some black showing on all three models. Then I did a mix of Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Model Colour Sick Green. Finally pure Sick Green was applied then a custom wash made from an old GW Ork Flesh Wash mixed with a tad of Shadow Black Ink.

Then I deemed them good enough for tonight and tomorrow I will finish them mostly and try harder to find a job. I might go out tomorrow night, so I don’t think I’ll put in as many hours painting, but I’m in the home stretch for all three models, so it will be time to work on three different Chaos Space Marines.

Game 2 & 3 of Warhammer 8th Edition

And two more losses. I’m beginning to think I’m the worst army list selector in the world.  Night Goblin mercenaries have leadership 4! Of course they were in range of both my general and the battle standard bearer when they panicked and ran in the first game, from Salamander fire. Didn’t know they shot that far and force mandatory panic checks. I don’t know much about the army lists I don’t own, playing something like 5 games since 4th Edition.

Anyway this was week two of the Strategies Mighty Empires campaign and I was tied with two other people for last. It was also mandatory mercenaries week and in my defense I didn’t have any options. I did Nurgle daemons as I own them from my 40K army the Diseased Sons, I just painted more, a movement tray, and ranked them up to give 8th Edition a go. The only other fantasy models I own besides one or two more chaos champions, mostly all on round bases, was my 4th Edition Night Goblin army.

Being unemployed and them being close to table ready, I grabbed one unit, which turned out to be 50 models, threw in a Night Goblin Shaman to help me in the magic phase, as in every game of 8th Edition I’ve played I’ve faced a Level 4 Sorcerer, that’s how I chose the army for this week. It is impossible for Chaos Daemons to have a level 4 magic user in a 1500 point game. If I make and save some gold in the campaign I can add up to another 250 points to my army. But that is going to have to wait two weeks, because I’m going to a cousin’s wedding reception next Sunday. Even the three fanatics I felt a little guilty about taking didn’t really do much, they killed a few Night Goblins and a Plaguebearer or two…

Deployment for game 1
Deployment for game 1

I just realized I forgot my animosity rolls. Oh well I forget lots of rules…

This week I got to choose early, first even of the campaign events and took Building Boom and wanted to challenge Sidhu but he wasn’t there, so I ended up fighting Corey and his Lizardmen. He had a Slann, Temple Guard, regular Sauruses who were the mercenaries, some skinks with blow guns, the big triceratops lizard and three salamanders. Once again we rolled up lots of terrain and lots of it magical. I played the second game on the same terrain approximately we rolled what type of rivers and stuff were on the board. No one ever went in the mysterious forest.  I’m beginning to think I should hide behind the scenery, but the Nurgle Daemons don’t even have any ranged attacks and I generally lose during the magic phase, though this week was a bit better.

False Fanatic Release
False Fanatic Release

Anyway I’ve been thinking a lot on what I could do to try to make this army competitive. It is tough at this points level, but I think the long term solution is another unit of line infantry and I’m thinking Daemonettes. Short term the Herald of Tzeentch will be added if for no other reason than defensive magic ability. I also hope to slowly build up some Fiends of Slaneesh, but until then the Beasts of Nurgle will get to come out and play. Nurglings just seems so much worse than other options, even Beasts are no prize. Nurgle appears to have the worst daemons in fantasy, but Plaguebearers are super popular in 40K, getting Feel No Pain and all.

Night Goblins run from fire
Night Goblins run from fire

Here is the quick version of the two games, as neither went terribly long. In the first game, my small army in terms of units, finished deploying first and then my scouts didn’t really have any place to go in no man’s land. The mission was a modified version of “Hired Guns” which uses I think mission 4 deployment.

Nurglings bite off too much lizard
Nurglings bite off too much lizard

In the first game the Nurglings went on my far left flank as I figured they might have a chance at killing Skinks. The Plaguebearers went in front of the end of the river where the fighting would obviously take place. Fantasy is so predictable in terms of where H2H will take place, I even tried to cast a movement spell but it was mainly a failure, I didn’t get to move far enough to get into H2H and it was ruled I had to go through my own fanatics. I thought the Hand of Gork should pick up the unit, then put it down in a new place…

Dual charges into Plaguebearers
Dual charges into Plaguebearers

Anyway there is a good picture of deployment. The dreaded Stegadon, that’s what the big dino is called, rampaged towards the Plaguebeares and despite me trying the tricky magic spell charge, got the charge on me. The Plaguebearers of course held, but that thing is tough to wound. So eventually the Temple Guard got to flank charge the Plaguebearers. The reason the Plaguebearers got flanked charged was the mercenary Night Goblin archers got hit by Salamander flames, which can go surprisingly far. These cause auto panic checks and despite getting two tries to roll 8 or less the Night Goblins panicked and ran, never rallied and disappeared off the board leaving Slim and a lone fanatic at the end.

Before all that happened the Skinks advanced to within 8 inches of the Night Goblins so I remember to send out the fanatics, but one of the many rules is they can’t go through terrain. So I had to redo it as at first I sent two towards the Skinks and one towards the Temple Guard. I also peppered the Temple Guard with 35 arrows and some magic. Despite all the crap I threw at them, they still got the flank charge.

Slim and the Nurglings charged the Skinks. I beat them up and pursued and wiped them out, but this left Slim kinda out of it positionally. The Nurglings went on to charge the Sauruses in the side which obviously didn’t go well. Slim turned himself around and flew back to try and rally the Night Goblins and to charge the Temple Guard in the rear.

I can’t remember all the details, but basically Slim needed to make his leadership test on 8 or less as I lost combat by one after the Plaguebearers were weakened further. He failed, twice! This cost him his last wound. This kinda left my battle standard bearer and a few other Plaguebearers and of course one lone fanatic. I was not lucky with them, I think they killed more of my stuff than his.

Game 2 Deployment
Game 2 Deployment

After Slim died and the Night Goblins fled I conceded. I then had to wait around to try to get a second chance to win my first game. Eventually I did get to play Sidhu.

His army had a big unit of the elite Skaven with Halberds. That unit also had the Grey Seer, a chieftain and the battle standard bearer. I through a tonne of shots and spells at it, but couldn’t halt it in the end. He also had two Doom Wheels which again I hit with piles of arrows, fanatics, Plague Swords, well maybe none of those, but goblin fists, I think Slim had a go at them too. Both survived with one wound and two respectively. Those things are pretty sick, they get shooting attacks, move randomly but fast, so you can’t stand and shoot them, the rats get 2D6 hits, they get Impact hits which as they go before everything are making me think some chariots will get painted for the goblins eventually. I own one or two unpainted ones.

Game 2 Scout Moves
Game 2 Scout Moves

Anyway you can see deployment. He had mercenary Blood Knights as that was his other evil army. They did nothing effectively, though everything charged the Plaguebearers in the end and after they got hit by the Dreaded 13th spell I conceded. Before all that happened I deployed the Nurglings on the right flank and moved the Night Goblins away from the river so the Fanatics would have more room to go crazy. They didn’t do that great, Sidhu kept making saves with the damn Doom Wheels but I’d have to say they did better than game one.

Doom Wheels VS Nurglings
Doom Wheels VS Nurglings

The Night Goblins got off one volley of 35 arrows and managed to hit the Doom Wheel a pile, but did zero wounds. Before that happened and despite setting up fairly far back, both Doom Wheels rolled very high, survived driving over the flaming barricade (the barbed wire) and smashed into the Nurglings wiping them out.

They overran and drew out the fanatics and ultimately made it into H2H with the Night Goblins.

Night Goblins fail to kill doom wheels
Night Goblins fail to kill doom wheels

Night Goblins with Short Bows have no armour save at all. So even 50 die pretty quickly when anything hardier than a sneeze kills them. In my real Night Goblin army I’d have more of them, more fanatics too, and would have a Great Shaman leading that unit and my Warboss leading the other unit. Plus I’d have my huge block of spearmen to occupy the centre and take the charge. My goblin army is designed to stand around and shoot, the warmachines and magic do the damage and when the enemy gets frustrated he has to risk fanatics and lots of arrows and spears plus lots of goblin heroes.

Plaguebearers get stuck fighting in a river
Plaguebearers get stuck fighting in a river

So yeah two loses and no game next week for me. Eventually I will earn some gold and can add up to 250 more points more to the army which will allow Slim and my Heralds to buy fancier toys, but more Plaguebearers and Nurglings is not the answer. Maybe the Beasts can be useful, but I think I’d rather have 2 Fiends of Slaneesh than one Beast of Nurgle. Also the long term solution is another unit of line infantry. 10 Daemonettes with Full Command is 150 points which is 1.5 Beasts of Nurgle or basically 4.2 Nurgling stands. The Daemonettes will have more attacks at 21, the rank and standard bonus, and likely fight before the enemy helping to soften them up for the Plaguebearers. Nurglings have lots of wounds, but they are only toughness 3 and basically always lose combat and just disappear with their Leadership of 5, even 8 isn’t a big improvement.

Charged on all four sides
Charged on all four sides

Nope next month maybe after I get a job if I seriously try to turn this army into something that maybe wins a game, I’ll have to do up at least 10 Daemonettes maybe even 15. Here is my army list, the best one I can make with the models I have painted:

  • Daemon Prince with wings and level 1 magic ability 370pts
  • Harold of Nurgle, Battle Standard Bearer, Slime Trail and the Banner of Unholy Victory 200pts
  • Herold of Tzeentch, Flames of Tzeentch, and Spell Breaker 165pts
  • 29 Plaguebearers, Full Command and a magic banner for 403pts
  • 3 Beasts of Nurgle 300pts
  • With my last 62 points I can buy five more Plaguebearers or if I get it painted, the Fiend of Slaneesh

About the only magic item I can take that might make a difference is switching from Icon of Eternal Virulence to the one that allows me to re-roll failed to wound rolls. I’ll have to think on that some more.  he Harold of Tzeentch will get painted, but after that I need to paint my 2010 Astronomi-con Vancouver army, or at least the remaining 5 or 6 models.

Completing a custom cork base

Test Fit Steed
Test Fit Steed

Welcome back intrepid readers to another post on working with miniatures completely devoid of stylish purple text. After letting the glue dry on the multi-part OOP Daemon models and more importantly between the cork tile and the plastic GW cavalry base, it was time to finish off the base and securely mount the model.

The first thing I did was test fit the model and I got out a sharpie and traced roughly where the feet would go. Then I looked in my toolbox for two part resin epoxy. Finding none I decided rather than bike to Canadian Tire I would just use super glue to pin the model to the base.

Perhaps if the model was plastic this wouldn’t be necessary, but as this model was multi-part metal and was to serve as a Herald of Slaneesh in a Chaos Daemon Warhammer army, pinning the model to the base would be the wisest course of action. I got out a piece of metal rod that I got in a whole bag from a hobby or craft store. I got about dozen two feet long pieces in 1994 and I think I’m on the second one. I estimated how long of a piece I need then got out heavier-dutier snips and voila a short ‘pin’. I made sure it was long enough to go through the cork and the plastic by comparing it to the thickness of the base.

Measuring the pin
Measuring the pin

Next I used the pin vise to carefully drill into the rear foot of the Slaneesh Daemon. I didn’t want to drill through the foot, which wasn’t exactly thick. After a few minutes of patient twisting I had a hole of sufficient size. I then used super glue to fix the metal pin to the model.  Then I place the model over the cork base and figured out approximately where I’d need to drill a hole in it. Go slow with your drilling and this time you do want to go all the way through.

Glue the pin into the model
Glue the pin into the model

Using a judicious amount of super glue on the pin and both feet of the model I fixed the model firmly to the cork flooring material. Then it was time for some more test fitting, I even decided the model deserved a head.  t also deserved ‘scenic scatter’ basically little bits and bobs to make the base unique. I tried one of the big resin skulls, but in the end didn’t like it and went with a piece of an old 2nd Edition 40K box set Goff and another 28mm Black Cat Bases skull.

Drill through the base
Drill through the base

After they were secured to the model using Weldbond, it was time to thin some white glue and put it strategically on the base to secure beach sand. This needs drying time, several hours, but when that has past shake off the excess glue and seal the entire cork and sand base with another layer of thinned down white glue. This is apparently important.

Scenic ScatterThis was my first time using cork to fancy up a miniature base.  It wasn’t hard at all. Remember to go slow, use solid basic techniques, measure twice, cut once, and when in doubt pin the model.

These Slaneesh Daemons are not a high priority in my painting queue, in fact I have to make some custom movement trays again and do yet more basing, this time 54 Night Goblins. Oh boy! Eventually they will be primed grey as discussed previously, but first I may use a little green stuff to fill gaps in the multi-part metal model. I’ll leave the ride unmounted until most of the way through the paint job.

Another test fit
Another test fit
Finish Base with Beach Sand
Finish Base with Beach Sand