3 Finished Plaguebearers

Three painted Plaguebearers
Three painted Plaguebearers

Today was actually the best day for painting we’ve had in a long time in Vancouver.  There is a breeze, my hands don’t sweat, I don’t have to OD on water.  Too bad my sleep schedule is so messed up I slept away most of the day.  I’m up now and paint is drying as I’m almost done Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly.  I’ve finished the eyes which are oranges and yellows.  I think I need a bit more yellow but yellow notoriously doesn’t cover well, even over orange and white…

I did the handles of the swords brown even using my Reaper Master Series Terracotta on them.  I did the champs tongue purple.  I did my new dark purple system of GW’s Liche Purple then the Foundry Royal Purple Triad.  For fun I blended on the Wet Palette, which is behaving more today in the milder weather, the inbetween shades.  Alas I still haven’t gotten the handle on the wet palette and may have rushed things too much.  I did a very thinned down old GW Purple Wash too.  Now like a lot of other things it is drying.

My Putrid Green Paint Pot
My Putrid Green Paint Pot

I’m painting the glob on Knarly’s sword an old GW Jade Green which I plan to highlight with an old GW Putrid Green.

I painted the nipple ring on Fleshy a P3 Blighted Gold colour which is a great Nurgle colour even if it does suffer from some separation issues, it is still workable.

The bases will be drybrushed with three GW browns: Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic.  They already got a fresh coat of Delta Ceramcoat black which is nice and flat and covers well.  I reach for it a lot to save my Chaos Black for finer detail work, now.

That’s about it, when everything is reasonably dry I snapped the pics then they are off to the box to get Matte Varnished.  I plan to go with Purity Seal even though I hear horror stories about it frosting models every now and then.  When I get a job and lessen my debt load I’ll hopefully have used it up and switch to Testors.

I think after all these years I’ve finally gotten good at drybrushing.  I come from the old school where we drybrushed with old brushes.  This can be really hit and miss which is a way to describe drybrushing itself.  Over the years I’ve acquired some makeup style brushes and on my last trip to Deserres I bought the smallest one yet.  This is much superior to the old worn out Tamiya brush I was using.  It was actually a joy to drybrush up the dirt with my new brush.  Maybe I’ll have to try drybrushing something else besides dirt and skulls…  Of course you still need to get just the right amount of paint on your brush, this is more important than the kind of brush you use.

In case you didn’t notice the Putrid Green turned out to be a boulder.  Shows you how often I use it.  So the green glob on Knarly’s sword is GW Jade Green and one of the oldest pots in my collection, GW Bilious Green from the Monster Paint Set I believe.  I blended the colours together, oh yeah the midtone was, a not quite as old, GW Striking Scorpion Green.  Anyway I mixed various midtones over a very solid two or three coats of Jade Green base.  I then put too much old GW Green Glaze on the model, but it worked out fine, I built back up my highlights even better using the wet palette and then I put some pure Bilious Green on and modicum of GW Yellow Glaze and voila slime! I may use some other tricks to keep it nice and slimy.

So which is your favourite one?  All three are great sculpts which is probably why Nurgle lesser daemons are the only metal ones left in GW’s catalog.  Drabby was the least work, but he has the nice exposed bones.  Fleshy I like though his skintone could have had a lot more depth to it, but it is a unique colour.  And Knarly I really gave the P3 Wet Palette a bit of a workout blending various mid-shades and I also used four different new GW Washes as well as some of my own custom thinned washes, so basically 15 years worth of Nurgle painting experience went into these models, hopefully they’ll result in a glorious victory on Sunday, now I just need to re-base the Beasts of Nurgle and make a 40 strong movement tray to replace my old puny 16 one.

Drabby the Plaguebearer

Fleshy the Plaguebearer

Knarly the Plaguebearer

The Drabby photo is a bit soft, I took four or five and this was the best one I got with my iPhone today.  Oh well you get the idea.

Make Mine Nurgle

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Almost Finished Plaguebearers

So since my sleep schedule is totally screwed up due to loud neighbours and being unemployed, I put quite a lot of work into these Nurgle daemons today, probably should have gone to the gym or something.  Tomorrow I will go to the gym and of course look for a job.  I also will likely finish these three plaguebearers tomorrow which when varnished will give me 40 painted, enough for my full rank bonus horde for the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires Campaign at Strategies starting Sunday.

Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin
Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin

The first thing I did after taking water out of my wet palette was finish the Knarloc Green Plaguebearer and his little Nurgling buddy.  I used GW’s Knarloc Green, and three Vallejo greens: Sick, Goblin, and Green Grey.  I blended the paint on the wet palette and highlighted.  I had a problem with Sick being too much of a step but with some blending and fighting the constant tendency of the model to go ‘minty’ I eventually put enough little dibs and dabs so that he looked like someone whom extra time had been taken painting.  I also used a little tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia wash at the very end to blend it to dark again.

With that complete I decided to do the bones next.  I decided on the bones as if some red gets on the bones it is OK, but if some bone gets on the guts you have to repaint it.  There are a couple of exposed bones on one plaguebearer and of course the one big horn on each model.  I change it up now and again, but basically I paint bones Snakebite Leather.  Bleached Bone or Vallejo Beige doesn’t cover black that great unless you gob it on, and you don’t want to do that.  So after painting the bones and skulls and horns Snakebite Leather I reached for the Vallejo Beige and put some of that on the wet palette.  I also got some GW Scorched Brown out too.  I used the dark brown to darken and to add little stripes or striations to the horns.  Then I put a very thin amount of beige on the horns.

Painting bone colour
Painting bone colour

Next I got out my newly discovered Reaper Master Series Clotted Red.  This was added to the wet palette.  I’d started a new piece of parchment and with considerably less water in the container, basically just a damp sponge.  I had all types of problems in Vancouver’s heat with the parchment drying out.  I still have a long way to go until I get the wet palette just right.  Anyway I put a fairly think layer of Clotted Red on all the things I wanted red.  Then I mixed up a bone wash, this is a fairly standard recipe for me of water and old GW Rust Brown Ink.  Some times I add a dab of red ink into the mix.  I paint this pretty much all over the bone color, though obviously you can leave some of the bone unwashed.

When that was all dry I painted more Vallejo Beige onto the bones in something of a drybrush but not totally, kinda half and half.  I did drybrush white onto the bones, but I also painted white on the tips and in thin lines.  I don’t like to drybrush but one thing that looks good and if you’re careful, drybrushing bones, horns, and skulls yields nice results.  Sometimes I don’t use white on my bones at all, this time since I’d invested so much time in the models I did.

Beginning Guts and Gore
Beginning Guts and Gore

Next I got out my new pot of GW Blood Red and painted it on the ‘guts’ as a highlight.  I’d used Beige and White to get reasonable exposed bones going.  Then I mixed up another custom wash, this one is two drops of water, two brushes of old GW Shadow Black Ink and two brushes worth of old GW Plasma Red Ink.  These like the Rust Brown Ink are in round pots with Citadel logos and black lids.

This takes a bit to dry so I likely took a break or touched up things.  Eventually I touched up some of the unpainted bits black and painted one eyeball white.  I fixed up the skull on the medallion with a little black ink at some point.  I had to touch up the green skin too as it rubbed off in one or two raised points.  They’re looking pretty good and my hands are sweating from typing all this out on my MacBook Pro.  Tomorrow they should get finished, I’ve dubbed them: Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly.

3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers
3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers

Change of Plans

So I biked to Strategies today, to try and get a little exercise, get out of the house.  I talked to Darren the owner about some things I’d noticed in the big red book, corrected him on a few points.  Told him how my 1500 point Ork and Goblin list has only two orks in it.  Then he mentioned the fantasy campaign starts this Sunday.

I knew it was the to start on the 25th.  I knew in order to play I’d be better off taking the daemons as they are way more points per models than the goblins, but I’d still planned to work on my second test bezerker and a test lesser demon.  That had to change, I’m not the fastest painter, but even three plaguebearers takes me time.  I suppose I could just drybrush and wash the heck out of them.  That is what a lot of so-called nurgle painters do.  They call it a messy or even a realistic style.  As if there is a realistic way to paint fictitious monsters.

I plan to paint one kinda bright sickly green.  I don’t really have any painted that way and I’ll do it for the champ so he’ll stand out a bit.  The other two will be brown-y or flesh-y.  I’ve seen some people paint Nurgle models or zombies like this so I thought I’d give it a try.  Also on the paint table is the one stand of Nurglings, I don’t need this for the 1500 point army list but I do for the 2000 point one.  It is much less of a priority.  One of the Nurglings will probably painted pale-blue grey like the Servant of Decay skin was.  The others will probably test out various foundation colours a little more, including my newest acquisition, Tau Sept Ochre.

I also need to make a movement tray for my 40 strong horde of Plaguebearers and I need to rebase my Beasts of Nurgle on 40mm square or 60mm square, whatever “monster” bases are.  I don’t actually have any, I’m just going to use balsa wood, then cover it with sand, skulls, and of course cat liter.

It is finally starting to cool down here in Vancouver, so I think I’ll publish this, make something to eat, then get cracking.

Primed black Nurgle demons on painting table