Posts Tagged ‘Delta Ceramcoat’

Remember how I talked about priming my old OOP Slaneesh Daemons grey?  Remember how I decided to test how this would work with the Grey Krylon Primer I bought?  Well their is a method to my madness, and no amount of purple text will make you smart.

Problems priming miniature

Problems priming miniature

Last night in between magnetic squares or something I primed the test Gretchin grey.  It did not go well.  I shook the can pretty good but all that came out of it in the first spray was vaguely yellow goop.  I wiped as much of that off the model as I could with my fingers and shook the spray can even more.  I tried spraying the Gretchin again and a big blob of grey primer comes out and lands right on the Gretchin’s face.

I shook the can even more rotated the model and finally got an almost acceptable spread of paint.

Lots of people have recommended this exact brand of grey primer.  It is used by professional artists, it is sold in high end fancy art stores, yet it is cheaper than GW primer.  Some claim GW’s isn’t even a primer just black spray paint which is probably true.

Bad Primer?

Bad Primer?

I was mildly annoyed at this development.  I was glad it didn’t happen to my OOP Daemons, but at the same time my test figure was seriously compromised.  So I got another 2nd Edition Warhammer 40,000 plastic gretchin out from their hiding place.  I cleaned the model, even drilled out the barrel for the nit picky.  I then primed it.  It went a little better.  I ended up rotating both models a bit and called them done after one more shot of Krylon Grey primer this morning.

I took photos naturally.

What do you do with the spots that aren’t primed?  When the model is black or white it seems obvious you fix the primer with that colour.  I don’t know if I have a grey that exactly matches Krylon Grey primer.  I have a lot of greys, maybe Foundation Astronomican Grey is close enough.  It should go on to bare metal and plastic OK…  I’m tempted to just use black though.  I’ve become something of a convert to basecoating models with Delta Ceramcoat black.  It is really matte, the Chaos Black is notably shinier.

The minis are salvageable

The minis are salvageable

One problem I did discover with the Delta Ceramcoat is it doesn’t stick to sheet styrene well.  Yet another thing in favour of using balsa wood.

I still got my great Goblin baseoff to do.  I’m expirementing with the basing material I have and contemplating biking to Strategies or Grand Prix Hobbies or both in search of some milder flock than that red stuff.  I tried using UHU glue just in spots, with a dip in the ballast then a sprinkling of red stuff.  I even got out two pairs of tweezers to try and minimize and position the red stuff.  I plan to give the static grass, which I’ve never used, the special leaves, which I’ve never used, and the lichen which I’ve barely used another go.  I think if I get a decent proportion of material the red will not dominate and people won’t complain that the ballast isn’t shaded…

It’s my damn army anyway.  I really do need to get a squad of Night Goblins finished.  It has only taken me 15+ years, they’ll be done by Saturday evening, all 55.  Well 58 including the fanatics.  I’m going to paint five fresh recruits, they are being primed Chaos Black right now.

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Beach Sand ready for paint

Beach Sand ready for paint

So although I got a very late start to the day, it appears at least one Golden Daemon winning or aspiring painter is following my blog.  I don’t really run in that circle, I’m not a bad painter, I can do better, but I paint my army or my toy soldiers to use in games.  People are often surprised I don’t enter more painting competitions, I just don’t need more stress in my life.  Painting 28mm miniatures can be stressful enough without flying to a contest and having them subjected to incredible scrutiny.  I just try to do the best I can, on the models I need to paint to play, in the time I have available.

What did I paint today upon learning that expert level miniature painters are paying attention to my little tips, techniques, and travails? I drybrushed sand! That’s right boring old beach sand, drybrushed a series of browns, that is what I needed to do to get the second movement tray finished for the Neatherworldly Mathematicians.  Since I knew I had to do this anyway I got out two entrenchments that have been off on the side of my painting desk for a month or more.  They needed some sand and drybrushing too.

Before Drybrushing

Before Drybrushing

After drybrushing sand, I painted wood and drybrushed that too.  Then I painted sandbags and drybrushed them as well.  I was running out of dry brushes. That is the thing about drybrushing, you really do need a dry brush.  I painted the other details on my hand built entrenchment and the green growth on the Snap Dragon one and called them done.  Not before I mixed up a custom rust wash and applied it to the metal plate and the pick axe.

More Basing Materials

More Basing Materials

Remember my other big goal for the week, basing 54 Night Goblins?  Well here is the material I bought years ago when I was considering strongly doing a Warhammer Ancients army.  Amazingly I’m tired of drybrushing mud, so I decided my next army, my first new army in decades, would be based with something other than drybrushed sand.  I opted for a fall scheme, now all I needed was to choose a brown.

The Chosen Brown

The Chosen Brown

When I started the Trench Table project I went to Deserres and stocked up on browns.  I picked four I liked best and upon inspecting the alsorans, I opted to use the one I labeled W2.  It is an in-stock Delta Ceramcoat Golden Brown.

Base looks like peanut butter

Base looks like peanut butter

Last night while not sleeping, I remember I had two spare Night Goblin archers painted in my miniature case in colour schemes I discarded years ago when I did up some greenskins to play Mordheim.  My greenskins were deemed such a success and so old school pressure was put on to paint the other 150 and have an army of them.  Now about 8 years later I’m very close to having a playable Warhammer 8th Edition army of goblins.  Loyal readers will know I opted to use Nurgle Daemons in the Mighty Empires campaign at Strategies as it was even less work getting them legal for 8th Edition, however in an unexpected campaign twist it is mandatory mercenaries week, so some of the Night Goblins must get based in time for Sunday’s game.

Base looks like crunchy peanut butter

Base looks like crunchy peanut butter

I tried the Golden Brown on the base of one of these unneeded but still painted Night Goblin archers, it looked like peanut butter.  I put the ballast on, it looked like crunchy peanut butter. I’m not sure I need any more jokes about this, impatiently I put some of this weird red flock, or what I thought was flock on.  It seems to be really fine foam-like material, you kinda have to squish it down with the end of a brush say to get it behave a bit more.  I wasn’t crazy over how it looked or the colour, but it certainly was different.

The final material I bought at Imperial Hobbies years ago, was lichen in Autumnal colours.  I reached for a tiny sprig of a non-red one and I thought it looked much better on the base than the weird red foamy stuff…  My plan is still to go ahead with basing the 54 Night Goblins and their movement tray I have to now make, peanut butter brown, add the crunchy bits and the some twigs of lichen.  Then after all that is dry add very little red stuff.  I also thought of mixing the red stuff and ballast together so I can apply it in one go…

One down, many to go...

One down, many to go...

That might just make a big headache, mess.  The finished model looks OK, hopefully it looks fine with my purple and blue flamed Night Goblins, the Nefarious Fire Tribe.  I’ve even named all the units now.  The one getting based is of course Ickybob’s Boyz still to come are the Prickly Posse and the Blue Bootie Brigade.  My ork unit which isn’t assembled or painted will be called Snaggletooth’s Snappers and will be lead by Ol’ Snaggletooth himself.  The Battle Standard Bearer and the Warboss who lead the other two goblin units might have had names last night while I couldn’t sleep, or perhaps they did not.

After dinner and a fresh round of applying for jobs, I’ll start work on making my custom magnetic movement tray for the 54 (55 with Hero) strong unit of Night Goblin archers, ranked up in five rows of 11.

Autumn Test Goblin

Test Models Inspect Entrenchments

Three painted Plaguebearers

Three painted Plaguebearers

Today was actually the best day for painting we’ve had in a long time in Vancouver.  There is a breeze, my hands don’t sweat, I don’t have to OD on water.  Too bad my sleep schedule is so messed up I slept away most of the day.  I’m up now and paint is drying as I’m almost done Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly.  I’ve finished the eyes which are oranges and yellows.  I think I need a bit more yellow but yellow notoriously doesn’t cover well, even over orange and white…

I did the handles of the swords brown even using my Reaper Master Series Terracotta on them.  I did the champs tongue purple.  I did my new dark purple system of GW’s Liche Purple then the Foundry Royal Purple Triad.  For fun I blended on the Wet Palette, which is behaving more today in the milder weather, the inbetween shades.  Alas I still haven’t gotten the handle on the wet palette and may have rushed things too much.  I did a very thinned down old GW Purple Wash too.  Now like a lot of other things it is drying.

My Putrid Green Paint Pot

My Putrid Green Paint Pot

I’m painting the glob on Knarly’s sword an old GW Jade Green which I plan to highlight with an old GW Putrid Green.

I painted the nipple ring on Fleshy a P3 Blighted Gold colour which is a great Nurgle colour even if it does suffer from some separation issues, it is still workable.

The bases will be drybrushed with three GW browns: Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic.  They already got a fresh coat of Delta Ceramcoat black which is nice and flat and covers well.  I reach for it a lot to save my Chaos Black for finer detail work, now.

That’s about it, when everything is reasonably dry I snapped the pics then they are off to the box to get Matte Varnished.  I plan to go with Purity Seal even though I hear horror stories about it frosting models every now and then.  When I get a job and lessen my debt load I’ll hopefully have used it up and switch to Testors.

I think after all these years I’ve finally gotten good at drybrushing.  I come from the old school where we drybrushed with old brushes.  This can be really hit and miss which is a way to describe drybrushing itself.  Over the years I’ve acquired some makeup style brushes and on my last trip to Deserres I bought the smallest one yet.  This is much superior to the old worn out Tamiya brush I was using.  It was actually a joy to drybrush up the dirt with my new brush.  Maybe I’ll have to try drybrushing something else besides dirt and skulls…  Of course you still need to get just the right amount of paint on your brush, this is more important than the kind of brush you use.

In case you didn’t notice the Putrid Green turned out to be a boulder.  Shows you how often I use it.  So the green glob on Knarly’s sword is GW Jade Green and one of the oldest pots in my collection, GW Bilious Green from the Monster Paint Set I believe.  I blended the colours together, oh yeah the midtone was, a not quite as old, GW Striking Scorpion Green.  Anyway I mixed various midtones over a very solid two or three coats of Jade Green base.  I then put too much old GW Green Glaze on the model, but it worked out fine, I built back up my highlights even better using the wet palette and then I put some pure Bilious Green on and modicum of GW Yellow Glaze and voila slime! I may use some other tricks to keep it nice and slimy.

So which is your favourite one?  All three are great sculpts which is probably why Nurgle lesser daemons are the only metal ones left in GW’s catalog.  Drabby was the least work, but he has the nice exposed bones.  Fleshy I like though his skintone could have had a lot more depth to it, but it is a unique colour.  And Knarly I really gave the P3 Wet Palette a bit of a workout blending various mid-shades and I also used four different new GW Washes as well as some of my own custom thinned washes, so basically 15 years worth of Nurgle painting experience went into these models, hopefully they’ll result in a glorious victory on Sunday, now I just need to re-base the Beasts of Nurgle and make a 40 strong movement tray to replace my old puny 16 one.

Drabby the Plaguebearer

Fleshy the Plaguebearer

Knarly the Plaguebearer

The Drabby photo is a bit soft, I took four or five and this was the best one I got with my iPhone today.  Oh well you get the idea.

Make Mine Nurgle

I’ve finished the scatter terrain, I’ve finished the dry brushing, I long ago finished construction.  All I have left to do is some fine detail work and take some decent pictures for the fanboys.  ;-)

However since I want to get out of the house, maybe watch some World Cup, try to find a job, I’m going to quickly update this blog, as I do have a lot of new pictures to show off, and I want to write down what I did, in case anyone wants to try and duplicate it, or in case I forget what I did myself…

First of all some eye candy, this is my test model, posing behind some sandbags made by the guy who runs EllaDan.de, these are about the nicest sandbags I’ve found.  He may sell you some if you ask nice.  I painted them with GW colors, the greens are Gretchin, then a no terribly effective drybrush of Camo, followed by 1.5 washes of Gryphon Sepia.  Then I did a dry brush of Rotting Flesh which was more effective.  I painted the dirt: Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic Brown in progressively lighter drybrushes.  That’s it, quick and relatively painless.  To speed up the process skip out the Camo green and the Sepia wash.

IMG_0010

That above picture is on Flickr along with some of my other finished models.  The Sandbags are a bit shiny, I think they will be getting sealed with a Matte sealant.  Darren was recommending Testor’s the other day, may have to invest in some when I’m gainfully employed again…

So what else do I have to show you, why lots of browns of course.  This project requires lots of black and brown paint so I bought a bunch and chose the ones I thought would work best, lets see how I did…

Chosing the best browns

So I gathered together all the new and old browns I’d bought and chose the following, for dirt Brown Velvet followed by Raw Sienna.  These are then labeled D1 and D2 as that is the order I will drybrush them on to the rocks and sand.  The final dry brush will be GW’s Bubonic Brown as it will help the terrain match my armies bases some.  For the wood I wanted contrast with the dirt and the GW colors and ended up chosing Terra Cotta and Golden Brown.  All these craft paints are made by Delta, three are labeled Delta Ceramcoat and the third is just an older or newer style bottle.  They are 2 Fl. Oz. and available at craft stores for about two bucks a pop.

Hopefully these four bottles which are basically new and full will last the duration of this project.  The From the Warp guy is a fan of these paints, he uses them on his miniatures I believe.  They cover pretty well, I just straight drybrushed them on except the Terra Cotta…

Terra Cotta which is what I painted the planks goes on pretty orange, especially if you paint it thick.  Try to avoid putting too much of it on.  When I paint wood grain, which is the case for the foot bridge and the planks in the trenches I try to paint in the direction of the grain.  This lets the brush lines sink with the wood grain and with a black undercoat is a quick way to add detail.  Again too much Terra Cotta and this works less well.  That said wood shouldn’t all be the same uniform color, especially not in the trenches so a little darker or lighter base coat here and there shouldn’t matter.

Now things weren’t looking as nice as the footbridge I did with GW paint, but just tell yourself it is the aggregate effect that counts.  It doesn’t matter how well you highlight a given plank, the effect you want is a whole battle field.  Hold the terrain at arms length and it will start looking better, this is about how close people will get to it.  People pick up models, terrain generally just sits there.  Also tell yourself you have to paint at least 23 more tiles and that it will look better when you finish.

So after the orangy and a bit patchy coat of Terra Cotta dries I then finished off the scatter terrain and the next morning begain the drybrush fest.  First I drybrushed the scatter terrain, then I drybrushed Golden Brown on the planks.  Then the three browns mentioned above onto everything else.  I never touched anything up if a little brown goes on the wrong spot push on.Stockpile of modeling stuff

The final touch is tiny details.  Over the last few years in addition to collecting resin terrain, balsa wood, and foam, I also bought up on eBay and elsewhere random battlefield accessories.  Warhammer 40,000 is heroic 28mm so I tried both 1/35th and 1/48th scale, both kinda work.  Lots of companies make bits in 28mm too and you can just use most anything to provide that little extra detail to your terrain.

I glued these on with white glue, then painted them black.  The last step will be to paint them and assemble the tile and take a decent photo or two.  You can add the detail earlier when you are doing the grit, I’ll experiment more going forward, but basically a bayonet here, a canteen there gives the terrain more personality, I plan on adding a lot of personality to this table…

Battle Field AccessoriesMore resine bits I bought on eBay.

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Small realistic details, bucket, canteen, knife, etc.Almost finished first terrain tile.