A while back I got a personal message over at the Bolter and Chainsword. I ignored it as I have much more important things on my mind than miniature soldiers. However I’m not an asshole so while trying to get to inbox zero, I read the message. It was a request for photographs of the Hakanor’s Reaver model I did as a tutorial when the last Chaos Codex came out. We were trying to do tutorials for all the new official renegade chapters. We never made it. People promised to do tutorials and then didn’t. I took on two difficult to paint chapters and completed both my tutorials. I personally think the second tutorial model is far better painted, I allowed myself to do more elaborate highlights on the trim for instance.
Anyway I asked the dude to send a real email detailing what he wanted. Turns out they are working on some sort of fan publication. They want photos of all the official GW Chaos Renegade factions and they also wanted action or staged shots. Now I live in a modest apartment in East Vancouver. I don’t have room for a gaming table. I don’t have the vast, vast, majority of my gaming terrain with me in the city. However loyal readers will remember I started a new large terrain project, but like most things in my life the last five or six years it got derailed…
I told the fellow I only had an iPhone he assured me those were pictures of sufficient enough quality. So I stopped rioting long enough to take a couple dozen pictures, even setting up my finished terrain tiles in my living room to take a bunch of staged photos. I put them up on Flickr but I’ll cross post a couple here.
Welcome back boring text fans, where once again I make another movement tray for the square base game I play ever 5 or 6 years. This is the first of two movement trays I will be making this week. This one was to be the simplest, but even simple projects can go wrong if you’re not careful or it is late at night…
For this week’s Mighty Empires campaign I have to use mercenaries, this means after slaving to get a 1500 point Nurgle Daemon army on the table I must change it. This wasn’t the end of the world, but it did mean I’d be devoting a lot more time to painting Warhammer Fantasy Battle stuff than I had planned this week. I decided to make the new movement tray for the Plaguebearers out of sheet styrene as it is nice to work with, but I liked the sides of the balsa tray I made, so it was to have a balsa wood rim. That’s right a hybrid.
This time I got out five 25mm square bases and even wrote the measurements down on my painting table. Due to army list changes and a slight under performance of my army last week, this week’s army features a unit of 30 Plaguebearers, still with the two magic banners, but no longer in Horde formation. I decided I wanted more depth and less frontage. This meant the interior size of the movement tray was to be 12.5 cm by 15 cm. I allowed for a tiny bit of extra space and 4mm for the three edges. I even wrote the dimension right on the tray after I was done scoring the edges.
Just like last time I put balsa wood along the front. I measured twice and cut once. Then I put balsa wood along the width, cut two matching lengths and started gluing and clamping the sides to the sheet styrene. When it was all clamped I got out my five bases and quickly realized that after trimming the side to the correct width I’d left the movement tray facing the wrong way, what I had made was a 15 cm by 12.5 cm movement tray or 6 models wide and 5 rows deep. This was a bit embarrassing but a good lesson. I removed the clamps from one side, rotated the tray, measured another piece of balsa wood, glued and clamped it.
I got out the five plastic bases and it was a good fit. Six models wide was a tight fit, and wasn’t what I wanted, I think for the Plaguebearers to win combats they need to grind down the opposition. With only one attack base and not particularly great WS or Str what won combats for them last week were the two standardbearers, the magic banner(s), and early on the +3 rank bonus was nice. Later on they still won, but it was lucky, keeping a rank bonus or two later into the game would have helped them I think. In this formation they have 10 wounds to give before they lose a rank bonus, same as when there was 40 of them and the extra points saved will hopefully allow the rest of the army to be more effective.
My mercenaries for the week consist of a Level 2 Night Goblin Shaman who I’ve dubbed Ickybob and in the great tradition of naming Ork regiments, his unit is Ickybob’s Boyz. This week that will be 50 Night Goblin Archers, but in the display case there are 55, 54 including Ickybob. There is a strict 25% max/min, or at least that is my understanding of mandatory mercenaries week, so I have exactly 375 points of Night Goblins in my 1500 point army. 50 Archers, 5 ranks of ten right? Well since I plan to magnetize the goblins and their movement trays, I don’t want to make two trays per unit. Ickybob’s Boyz will rank up 11 wide and still five rows deep. I’m really looking forward to seeing if the Level 2 sorcerer makes a difference, the best I can do magic wise at 1500 points and still have Harold of Nurgle leading the Neatherworldly Mathematicians is a Level 2 and a Level 1 which is what I’ll try this week. I may go with a single Level 2 the week after it depends on if I win my game and if I make any gold in the campaign, plus of course my ability to complete miniature paint jobs.
Well that is more than enough for tonight and today. Hopefully tomorrow starts better as I really do need to find a job.
Welcome back to the part of the Internet where random purple text and owning a domain called BloodOfKittens is not considered cool, where once again we will try to focus on the miniature painting hobby specifically how to give your minis that extra special base. Hobbyists with Internet access and a credit card are spoiled these days with specialty pre-made resin base manufactures. I’ve tried several and on my recent trip to Strategies Games and Hobbies on Main Street in Vancouver, I picked up some square bases covered in skulls manufactured by Micro Art Studio and Reaper Miniatures. I couldn’t find any cool cavalry bases (or 25mm by 50mm outside of GW land), so I was stuck with making one somehow.
Now I’d read online of the miracle basing product known to the rest of the world as cork tile. Basically they are a form of flooring for homes, I found some excess thin cork at Urban Source, also on Main Street in Vancouver, which was 50 cents a piece. You can use this cork to make bases, or rubble, or even buildings for your miniature wargaming needs.
First you need to cut out a piece of cork about the size of your base. It can be a bit bigger on the front and the sides, but for ranking up not too big. I don’t really plan to rank this model. After you cut the basic shape you just randomly bust off, or pinch off, little bits of cork around the edges until you end up with an irregular shape, that fits basically on top of your plastic GW cavalry base.
Once you have a suitable shape, you get out your white glue, in my case Weldbond brand and you coat the cork with it on one side. You then position the cork on top of the plastic base and clamp it tight. Now you really need to give the glue time to dry, that is why I started with that part of my basing task.
Next I started cleaning up the bits and pieces that make up an old Chaos Sorcerer, an old Steed of Slaneesh with Daemonette rider, and an old Fiend of Slaneesh. I used a file and in some cases an exacto knife. The Steed did not have a tab, but may have had one originally, I got the model in a trade of sorts in about 1996, maybe be a bit after. I filed down the feet so I’d have a nice flat surface to work with. I test fit the legs and put weight on the back to see which position would be most solid. Then I put super glue in the molded holes and glued both legs at once and let it sit. It stands upright as you can see in some of the photos, this should make mounting it to the base easier.
After that I glued the rider together. I twisted the upper torso around quite a bit, not to be dramatic, but because that was how the model fit together tightest. You can do a certain amount of filing and adjusting, but sometimes you just have to go with whatever pose works best. Finally I glued the lower jaw to the head and let the Steed sit on my hobby table in three separate pieces, four if you count the base.
The sorcerer was going to be the easiest, but still might provide a lesson in mounting models to resin bases. That is right I’m using pre-cast skull bases that I bought in a blister. I clipped off almost the entire tab on the sorcerer. When mounting metal models to resin bases it is best to leave a small spike of metal jutting out from the bottom of the model. I didn’t take the best photo at this stage but I was busying working away and all these pictures were just quick snaps with my iPhone. After filing the the tab as level as possible I then test fit it on all five skull bases in the blister. I found the one that seemed to work best with this model and I painted a dab of white paint on the metal spike. Then I again test fit it, now there is a little glob of white paint on the base where the spike should go. You then drill this out with your pin vise.
Then you test fit the model again and assuming all is well glue the bottom of the model and the spike to the base.
Setting aside the sorcerer I turned to perhaps the most problematic of the three models, the circa 1995 Marauder Fiend of Slaneesh. I gave this model a good filing and test fit the various pieces. The main torso is in two pieces and the base I bought for it is solid metal. The first thing I did actually was trace out a 40mm by 40mm square of sheet styrene. I scored it and broke it off like it says to do on the packaging. Then I glued that to the bottom of the Reaper skull base which I’d also cleaned with a file and exacto knife.
If you use super glue like I did you only get one chance to do this. If it is a little off you can just file and cut off the white styrene that sticks out. Even before I opened the blister I’d decided to do this, I thought the model would slide better on the table and it added a little bit more height to the small Fiend of Slaneesh. Turns out the base is partially hollow, I don’t think the sheet styrene was absolutely necessary, but I had it at hand and it does slide nice on my hobby table.
After basing the base I decided to trim off the tabs from the two halves of the Fiend torso. I had already decided it was best to get the torso together before trying to base it. I left a single spike on one leg and filed the rest flat. It actually fit quite well on the base with three legs supporting it upright. I’ve gotten ahead of myself, old multi-part metal models are often notoriously difficult to get a good fit. This model wasn’t bad, I didn’t get out greenstuff, but I did file it a lot before and after I super glued it together.
With the model together and an optimal position on the base determined, it was time again for a dab of white glue and the pin vise. I didn’t drill into the styrene, the base is plenty think enough to accommodate the spike. Again I put super glue on all four paws and the spike and set it down on the base. I held it together for 30 seconds or whatever then got out the arms. I test fitted them and though the pose might not be the best, again I went with the tightest fit. One arm fit better than the other so I did yet more filing. At some point the model came partially unglued from the base, so more super glue to the rescue.
With the arms on the model, it was time for the head. This had lots of surface to glue to, but not the best fit. I may get out the green stuff for this, but I might just go with it. It’ll likely never be an award winning model but I still think I can make it look cool. I dubbed it “Retro Demon” and it will get a suitably disco paint job.
I flipped over the cork base and could still see white glue. White glue, the brands I prefer anyway dries clear, that is how you know it has set. So it was time for lunch and a blog post, not exactly in that order, but I’m getting hungrier as I type. Later tonight I may finish off the cork base and the Steed of Slaneesh which is the most instructive half of this little project, then it is primer and back to brush work for me. Though before that I may build a couple of movement trays and there is also 54 Night Goblins that need to have their bases finished. They’ll get less elaborate bases to be sure. I have a lot of work to do in order to play in the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires campaign.
Apparently one of the tutorials I’ve written has been added to the From the Warp tutorial section which I link to from my Painting Advice page but not in this blog’s sidebar. I’ll have to fix that. While looking for my name in lights so to speak and eating my sandwich, I discovered this tutorial on using cork in basing so you can see where I’m going. I tried test fitting the Steed just now, it’ll work but I’m not sure whether pinning is necessary, I was going to and I think it is for the best…
So even before yesterday’s less than triumphant return to the Warhammer Fantasy battlefield, I was already dreaming up a bigger multi-model base to allow my converted musician and my army battle standard bearer to rank up better. I stopped in at the Urban Source on my walk back from Strategies and bought some magnetic sheets, combined with my stockpile of super strong magnets, balsa wood, and sheet styrene I was well equiped to built my multi-base or regiment base and yet more new movement trays for the units I need to field in week 2 of the Mighty Empires campaign.
I took a lot of pictures and worked on this one base through the wee hours after I couldn’t sleep. The glue couldn’t dry fast enough and my basic design didn’t change but made it more elaborate and now it will be a lot more work to paint, I have six days, hopefully I can do it in two.
First thing I did was layout some of the stuff I would need, including all the sheet styrene I’ve acquired over the last couple years in anticipation of finishing my Ork & Goblin army and building my trench table. I went with sheet styrene for this base as I had it in a lot of different thicknesses and it is actually easier to work with than wood. You just score it with an exacto knife then bend it the other way and it snaps pretty much perfectly clean.
The magnetic sheet you can cut with scissors and I trimmed it with an exacto knife too. I glued it to the sheet styrene. I affixed the super magnet to the bottom of the base with super glue then I put tiny sheet styrene guides to keep the models in the right spot rather than just allowing them to attach willy-nilly to the base.
With that all done it was time to add sand. I also planned to embellish the base and went looking for a Nurgling in my bits box, I didn’t have any, I did find a really old squig. I also cleaned two more of my 28mm Black Cat Bases metal skulls. They are still awkward to clean but once done they glue and paint up nice on bases.
After the sand had dried I sealed it with more white glue. That sand was a bit sparse but I had to let glue dry so I went to bed. I actually got about two hours sleep. Then I woke up and checked on the model and some other stuff.
I’d already jotted down next week’s army list and I even was looking ahead to week three, noting I needed a Herald of Tzeentch so I went looking for one among all the old models I bought back in the day or traded for. I never found a single Horror, but I found a Chaos Sorceror who might do. I also waded through a whole bunch of bits to find all the pieces to a circa 1995 Marauder Fiend of Slaneesh and two Steeds of Slaneesh one with an old metal Daemonette rider.
I also needed to figure out the bases that should go with the models now. I had to rebase my Beasts of Nurgle earlier and I put them on homemade 40mm square bases. The base I was working on right now is about 50mm square. I actually found two resin 50mm square bases and many cavalry bases that came with the Steeds, Fiends, and Fleshhounds. I went on the internet and it appears the new plastic Steeds and Daemonettes are on cavalry bases. I plan to assemble the one I have maybe use it as a Herald some day. I have another Steed which I’ll mount a Chaos Space Marine on someday…
The Fiend appears to be on a 40mm square base which I have none of. I could make one out of sheet styrene but I might look into getting a resin one at Strategies. The model is so old and puny a bigger base would help it stand out.
After rumaging through my grandfather’s old shell case which I use to store blisterpacks and bags of minis. I finally got to see how the new base ranks up with the other plaguebearers and the movement tray I’d previously made. It worked just fine thank you, another tribute to precision engineering.
It was about then or perhaps after lying in bed unable to sleep for a couple more hours I realized I could have put two more Plaguebearers on the base. I would have been better off perhaps gluing them straight to the magnetic sheet, but I already had some sand down. Despite how late at night it was, I got out a variety of tools and clipped, cut, and sanded the tab off two plaguebearers. I test fit them first, but basically I had to glue them to mixture of UHU glue, white glue, and sand.
One of them went on alright, the second one not as well, partly due to cat liter in my sand mix. I gobbed on more UHU glue and went back to bed. Several hours later I was still awake so I got up and removed the extra sand I’d added. The UHU glue must not have been fully hard, or it interfeared with the previous glue, or it was just a bad fit as eventually while fiddling one plaguebearer leaned over and collapsed.
I had to clean off some glue and sand then more forcefully I jammed his feet into the still slightly wet mixture of sand and glue. This time I didn’t use super glue to try and attach him, I tried an epic-ly old tube of Citadel plastic cement that came in some game box set and has lasted me a decade or more, then if that wasn’t enough I got out my super glue and drenched the sand around the plaguebearers feet. That hardened things up and I think it should hold. If it makes it through painting it should get a game tryout next Sunday. If not the next thing to try is epoxy resin.
After again not being able to sleep I finally got up at around six am. My kitchen is pretty empty, I need to do the laundry, go to the doctor and pharmacist, and I plan to visit Darren and double check a few things before I go to crazy with painting and converting for next weeks campaign game. What can you do at 6 in the morning? Well you can get the paper, go to one of the 24 hour cafes on Main Street and read.
I also checked my email and I’m waiting for my doctor’s office to open at 9am. So I decided to use some of this time to type out another rambling blog post, complete with the most pictures ever. A lot of steps and stages went into making one little movement tray. After I confirm my army list for next week I’ll make two maybe three more movement trays, probably out of sheet styrene as it is quicker, but I might make one out of wood, it all depends on the size and shape. I also may be forced to finally finish the bases on some of my goblin hordes, my proposal for 375 points of Night Goblin mercenaries results in 54 bases I need to do…
There were more in-progress shots, plus a bunch of various old minis I’ve horded and sorted through late last night. Here are a couple more snaps I took with the iPhone:
So loyal readers of this blog, both of them will know I’m working on my Astronomi-con army, my army for next year’s Astronomi-con, my terrain for next year’s Astronomi-con, and some WW1 guys to take full advantage of the modular trench table I’m building. So what’s this post about Warhammer Fantasy Battle doing on this blog?
Well I honestly haven’t played Warhammer Fantasy Battle in over ten years, but I’ve been encouraged over the last decade to get my Orks and Goblins on the table, I have many of them painted, well over one hundred goblins. They aren’t the prettiest but they are usable with three exceptions. One they are not based or more correctly they are just on black plastic bases, two they spearmen really should have shields, so I have to paint 63 goblin shields, and three the rules have changed so many times over the last decade the army needs movement trays and a few goblin crewmen for the warmachines. In short it would take a lot of painting and work to get 1500 points of goblins on the battlefield. 1000 points was what I was shooting for before, but 1500 seems to be the magic number at Strategies.
I went down to Strategies today, but no Darren. I did bring the army book to my other fantasy army. What other Warhammer Fantasy Army? I mean I haven’t played in over a decade… Well as Owen figured out over ten years ago I have enough Nurgle Daemons in the Diseased Sons to field a small fantasy army. However through the magic of over the top characters and 100 point magic items, my demons especially considering I’ve painted more over the last decade can easily make 1500 points. In fact 1500 points isn’t a very good number for using daemons in in WFB. You’re allowed to spend a maximum of 375 points on a Lord and the cheapest Lord is probably 300 points naked.
I could have went all Heralds but I ended up with the following army list. I had one Daemon Prince (with wings), one Great Unclean One, 37 Plaguebearers (two standards, one musician), 9 stands of Nurglings, and 3 Beasts of Nurgle painted to work with. Now I’d vowed never to run daemons again, at least not all Nurgle because they are slow, have no ranged attacks, and not the best magic. I actually have some more unpainted stuff I could have included, but for fun tried to make an army of what I had painted. Here is the list we came up with:
LORD: Daemon Prince of Nurgle with Wings 355 points
HERO: Herald of Nurgle, Battle Standard Bearer, Banner of Unholy Victory, Level One Wizard, Soul Hunger, and Slime Trail 275 points
CORE: 39 Plaguebearers, Full Command, Icon of Eternal Virulence 523 points
SPECIAL: 4 Nurgling Stands 140 Points
RARE: 2 Beasts of Nurgle 200 points
My Lord is basically naked and making him a follower of Nurgle seems to get him nothing, Darren’s lackey looked but couldn’t find any bit where he’d get an extra wound or mark of toughness, it didn’t even make him a Level One Wizard. I decided to do it anyway but I suppose I should start writing out the 2000 point list…
Initially they tried to talk me out of it, but I’m all four one big unit of Plaguebearers. I bought a new box of command as initially I thought I needed to have at least two CORE choices, but apparently I need three units of anything instead. Beasts of Nurgle may actually be good as they have a movement of six, but I couldn’t afford to take all three, because I also wanted Nurglings.
I’m going to need to re-base the Beasts of Nurgle, make one big movement tray, and paint two more plaguebearers by the 25th when Strategies new Warhammer Mighty Empires campaign starts. I totally expect to lose, but maybe 2000 points will be kinder too me. I plan to put the Plaguebearers in the middle, the Beasts on the right flank, the Nurglings on the left flank, with the Daemon Prince initially screened by the Beasts which might ‘hide’ him. I really don’t know all the rules, but as I said, “I have a PAINTED ARMY.” Most people play, I paint, surf the net, and now blog.
Expanding to 2000 points may be in my best interest, 1500 points is the official level of the campaign, bigger games are optional, I could make my Daemon Prince a Wizard too, give him a magic sword, possibly buy a second Herald, but mainly I’d field my third Beast of Nurgle and probably run two squads of 5 Nurgling stands. I’m even tempted to buy another Beast of Nurgle as I think they might be the best unit I have, they are after all the Rare choice…
I’ll take some new pictures when I get home and I guess clean and prime another Plaguebearer, probably the new champ model or the new musician…
I was hoping to have a new job today, but it is after 5pm and I haven’t heard either way which probably isn’t a good sign, maybe they are still debating, but I’d really prefer to be employed…
Oh and for the record Darren is old school, if you want to play in his store, your models have to be painted and based!
I just did the math to grow to 2000 points I’d need to paint one Nurgling stand, as I’d allotted six more for two units of five, the third Beast of Nurgle and then made my Daemon Lord more expansive giving him the abilities of a Level 2 Wizard and the Trappings of Nurgle which will make him even harder to kill with a 4+ armour save and regeneration. I’m no WFB expert but all my attacks except for Daemon Prince are Poisonous, I’d get D3 extra combat resolution from my big unit and count all wounds as double combat resolution, and at 2000 points everything but the Nurglings has regeneration.
Warhammer Fantasy Battle is a bit too crazy for me, I’d rather play Warhammer Historicals or Epic…
So having finished off two terrain tiles, I cleaned up my painting area pretty good, put away most of the materials and bits that were littering the floor and set about getting some models finished an off my painting table. The first batch I decided to finished were mostly already painted. The batch consisted of some new Nurgle demons that I’d been painting on the side and experimenting on, also added to the queue was an old plastic goblin spearman. This model had a bent spear and hadn’t been seen for years having gotten stuck to some foam. I fixed the spear and gave the model an average actually better than average paintjob, plus affixed a shield to him.
The two models I finished first were too old mid 90s Diseased Sons character models. Both were converted to have jump packs, one an old Ork jump pack and the other a converted metal loyalist jump pack. Back in the day during 1st and 2nd edition jump pack characters were all the rage. They usually had conversion or possibly even displacer fields which made them tough to kill. Now-a-days models seem to go about in rhinos and land raiders as it is safer and the models are cheaper and readily available.
The one with no helmet is Oderous the Unclean he was the lord/leader in the early days of the Diseased Sons. The other model which is in Crusader Armor was usually used as a lieutenant, sometimes both would be in an army list. He only has a chainsword whereas Oderous usually used a Plague Sword or sometimes a Deamon Weapon when I went a bit over the top.
These models were considered pretty damn well painted back in 96 or 97. I learned that once sealed you can’t use washes much on old minis so when I update one, I generally just add highlights or paint in lowlights. These models got the tiny line treatment and because they have sentimental value and I wasn’t in a hurry I touched up and improved a lot of things about the models, from Oderous’s face to the leather bits. This is the best these models have ever looked.
I still don’t think they’ll see the tabletop much, I may make another lord with wings someday, but generally I try to keep costs down on my HQ and like everyone else stick them with a squad in a vehicle for safety. I was going to make some Nurgle Raptors and I’ll probably still do it someday, but first I think I’ll do Khorne Raptors it makes more sense tactically. I’m also trying not to buy stuff, but to complete a squad of 8 Khorne Raptors I may need another jump pack or two plus possibly legs… Though I think I’ll get buy it will be the Noisemarines which I’ll do someday too, that will require the buying of some more legs and torsos.
The models that I put a lot of work into, especially relative to their importance are the Nurgle demons. I don’t need more painted Nurgle demons, I can’t even use them in a Chaos Space Marine army currently. However I bought some both for fun and because I had a plan for hordes of Nurglings… After buying and assembling them they sat primed in a box for years so slowly I’m working through them. I think I have six more stands to go. I use Nurglines and Plaguebearers to try out new techniques and color combinations, sometimes I just use up paint on them left on my palette.
These models were mostly finished prior to the terrain building period, but I still had enough bits undone to try some more stuff out. The blue grey skin may become a fixture of my Servants of Decay force. The Zombie on the Nurgling base was painted similar to how I did the sandbags with GW greens: Gretchin, Camo, and Rotting Flesh. Camo isn’t so important now that I have Gretchin green, it is probably better for zombies anyway. I used washes mostly Badaab Black and Devlan Mud but also probably Gryphonne Sepia. Most of my plague demons will look similar to this one, but I’ll try to streamline the technique some.
The other thing I wanted to test was the new Reaper brand dark reds I bought. The plaguebearers especially the pale one had lots of exposed guts these got covered in Terracotta Clay, Bloodstain Red, and Clotted Red. Clotted Red is the big winner it covers well and is a nice dark red. The others are more brown, still useful but when trying to get say a squad done I’ll be keeping my red recipe as simple as possible. I will be painting some Khorne worshiping models and I don’t want them wearing no sissy red. GW reds especially the new ones tend towards orange. I don’t want that.
I’m going to Vancouver Island for a few days, see the family, watch the World Wup final with my cousin from Austria. So I’m trying to get these models done before I go. I tried finishing them last night but it is getting hot in Vancouver even late into the night. The reds are drying right now, soon I’ll give them some washes and some highlights with GW reds, I have plenty of those then finish off their weapons and the rags on the one model and they’ll be done.
I tried to use my Awesome Paint Job.com Drying Blood wash but despite shaking regularly it separates and then gums up its dispenser. I ended up mixing a bit of the thick stuff with water and using that. I bought three of these washes and the only one that has worked is well I used an excessive amount of Cool Gray again because it gummed up and came out in a big blurt. I’ve taken to poking a needle in the Reaper and these pots, Vallejo gives me less trouble but it separates too, it just mixes back together better.
I have various red washes, glazes, and inks mostly old GW stuff, but you can buy artist ink. I’ve been buying some of that mostly orange, sepia, and flesh. I have this olive green one too, but I haven’t tried it. Oh well maybe on the next batch of Nurglings.
I’m using pigment mixed with water and my beloved old Rust Brown Ink to make the rust on the Plaguebearers blades. I’ll also probably mix in some orange paint as I often do two or three tones of rust to get an interest effect. My mom just called so I have to wrap up the miniatures and this post and make sure I don’t miss the 5 o’clock ferry. It is only 2:30 but I also have to pack and take out the garbage… I wish I would have done the laundry I guess yesterday, but I guess it will just wait until I return.
I’m going to try the Krylon Matte sealant on these models. I used it on some of my scatter terrain, nothing bad happened, but we gotta wait and see how it wears, I don’t play much, but I do use my models in games occasionally. When I get back from Vancouver Island I’ll work on these four tester models and maybe yet more Nurgle demons.
Contrary to what you may have read elsewhere online, I do know how to paint Nurgle models.