Five Freshly Painted Night Goblins

Cloth after the black wash
Cloth after the black wash

While making the magnetic movement tray for a unit of old Night Goblin archers that I thought was 55 strong, 5 rows of 11. I discovered that it was only 50 strong, well 49 including the hero. It was late at night and I had been cutting 20mm squares of magnetic material into the wee hours, so I decided rather than just borrow one goblin from another unit for the game I was planning to play on Sunday, I’d dig out some new plastic Night Goblin archers I got off eBay and paint them up.

I’m a slow painter, so painting five models, even rank and file Night Goblins in basically one day, which was the task ahead of me, was going to take effort. I would not be able to go at a leisurely pace, nor would I have lots of time for layered washes or trying out new stuff. I began cleaning the models and though I learned later I didn’t do a perfect job, I had them cleaned and on magnetic bases by 1:38 AM.

Liche Purple Basecoat
Liche Purple Basecoat

Despite staying up late the night before I couldn’t sleep and got out of bed at quarter to six. No I didn’t start painting then, but I did update this blog and probably give them there first coat of Chaos Black Spray primer. I had to take care of my daily job search as well as buy groceries, so about 10 AM I had to get serious about painting these models.

I did two blasts of GW Black spray paint, which unlike all my recent Plaguebearers covered pretty well. I did need to put on some more black here and there. After I had a good black it was time to highlight it. I used my top secret black highlighting recipe of Foundry Black Triad number 34. After quickly putting on B & C from the triad I did a wash of Badab Black. Then I did a slight re-highlight of 34C.

Applying purple flames
Applying purple flames

That’s it. Bam! On to the purple.

For the purple I used my new dark purple recipe which consists of Liche Purple highlighted with the entire Foundry Royal Purple Triad, number 19 for the numerically superior. That was it, even the flames were free-handed in one go. No washes in this purple recipe. I did take my second break during this phase.

The next phase was the most stressful, painting a face inside the hoods which I’d already highlighted. This was a bit unnerving, but I never had to redo any purple or black highlights. The only time I touched up one dot of purple, was doing one eyeball later on.

Close up of purple flames
Close up of purple flames

I didn’t use the exact green recipe I used on the others. I probably went further than I needed to, but Goblins have characterful faces and getting the green to pop is the key to painting them. I used Vallejo Sick Green, Game Colour 29 as my base. Then I used a less than great pot of GW Goblin Green. Things were looking OK, but I decided to paint GW Thraka Green wash into the darker recesses of the face and pretty much all over the hands and forearms.

I then had to build back up my highlights so I used Vallejo Game Colour Goblin Green. This is only slightly lighter than GW’s Goblin Green if any different at all. Although this was sound blending and colour progression, it wasn’t a big difference maker and was probably a poor choice given my goal of speed. Then I got serious about highlighting the skin, I used a medium aged octagon pot of GW’s Striking Scorpion Green. Finally highlights were with a round pot, that is starting to really show it’s age of, Bilious Green. That pot was one of the first ten or if not ten, twenty I ever bought. It came in I think the Monster Paint Set.

2 coats of green paint and a wash
2 coats of green paint and a wash

I think I took a break during the greens, I know I took a WIP photo. The model was basically done, the big three of tunic, trim, and flesh were finished. So I decided to ‘stick it to the man’ and not highlight the brown. I quickly put brown over the leather straps, quiver, and arrows and practically ran down the hall to photograph them thinking I was done and it was time for dinner.

I think it was about 5pm. As I was uploading the photos to my computer from my iPhone I remember, “Oi I didn’t paint the eyes!”. Turns out I didn’t paint the mouths either. These are important elements especially for Night Goblins.

This can be a tricky phase as you can ruin or at least damage careful highlights. I dotted the eyes white, then Sunburst Yellow, another epically old pot, but not as old as the one beside it which will remain nameless (Badmoon Yellow from the Ork VS Eldar paint set). That was it for the eyes.

Greenskin is good to go
Greenskin is good to go

The mouths I did a bit differently than usual. I got out the paint colour I’m making famous, Reaper Master Series Clotted Red and painted the entire interior of the mouth with it. I then got out Vallejo Beige and made sure it was subtle and painted the teeth. The teeth on these models are like a carved pumpkin they go back as little triangles way into the back of the mouth. This is not the norm for GW teeth and I wonder why it was done this way, probably something to do with lasers.

Anyway I think I took a WIP photo and despite being tired and hungry I did one more trick on the mouths. I took a drop of water and some plasma red ink, mixed up a thin wash and filled the mouths with it. I then leaned the models on their backs so it could colour the teeth and dry. You have to wash that your wash doesn’t overflow. If it does, quickly soak it up with a brush.

The false finish
The false finish

After laying on the couch listening to some blues, it was time to re-highlight the teeth. It was necessary to touch up a lip here and there during the whole mouth painting process. Highlights were done with Vallejo Beige and boring old Skull White.

Then I took a nap. That’s right no dinner for me I was beat.

Much later I dragged my ass out of bed, photographed the models as best I could, typed up this here blog entry/tutorial and then gave the models a coal of Purity Seal.

Finally Finished Night Goblin
Finally Finished Night Goblin

Tomorrow I will base 54 Night Goblins and their magnetic movement tray, or die in the attempt. Well maybe things aren’t that dire, it is just a game. Damn mandatory mercenaries week in the Mighty Empires Campaign.

Five Franticly Painted Night Goblin Archers

Night Goblin Pose 1

Night Goblin Pose 2

Night Goblin Pose 3

WW1 Canadian Corps Colour Scheme

Note the ‘u’ in colour, that’s the Canadian spelling, Firefox seems to think it is a mistake… So as promised once I got the old figures off my paint table I would start on some new test figures. The models pictured below are my first Foundry Triad WW1 Colour Scheme trial model beside a GW Orlock which will be painted as a Servant of Decay and a Foundry Rifleman which will be painted as WW1 Canadian Corps, a Van Doo in fact. WW1 English Uniform Test Figures

The models were first cleaned with an exacto knife and a small set of files. The bases are just beach sand for the WIP figs. The finished model has a resin trench warfare base, I’ll be buying more of those as the Servants of Decay and the Van Doos progress and grow into a substantial force. I’m going to do 1500 points of Servants of Decay and maybe bulk that up a little more later, for the Van Doos, I’ll do a platoon, there should have only ever been a hundred and sixteen ever at one time, so painting all of them might be possible, but that is probably too much to promise.

Anyway after cleaning the model, they were spray painted chaos black.  They were then painted more black using whatever black I had on hand, very possibly a cheap Delta Ceramcoat as I’m working on some terrain pieces still.  Once the models were good and black I then got out my P3 Wet Palette which really isn’t necessary, but I did use it, so I better mention that, and more importantly my Foundry English Uniform Brown triad, number 100 for those who prefer to use the numbers. First I put the A or shade on all the uniform parts then I put the B or main color on most of the uniform parts then I put the C or highlight on the parts I thought should have it, mostly raised folds.

When that was all dry I put a reasonable wash of Devlan Mud, this is GW’s new dark brown wash, all over the uniforms. I used an old trick and laid the models on their backs while the wash dried. Once that was dried I got out a smaller brush, size zero, I’d used size one for every other coat. With the size zero I got some more 100C English Uniform Brown highlight and painted mostly the edges and the most extreme raised areas or just more towards the top of the model. You really just giver to use Canadian parlance.

Then I got the three models and took them to my makeshift photo box, used my iPhone 3GS to take a couple snaps and wrote this here blog post. I’ll also be starting a thread on Lead Adventure forum as they take painting WW1 models pretty seriously and I want to get feedback.  I’m more than willing to do another test figure or two to get a good look that isn’t too much work.