Painting 08 Pattern Webbing

So three posts in one day, after five days of silence, what can I say other than I’m back baby!  Actually the last two postings could have been done as one, but I wasn’t sure I’d keep painting.  It is still hot in Vancouver and although it is almost midnight I really don’t have any reason to get up early now that the World Cup is over.

Continuing with my test model the next thing to paint on the Foundry Rifleman who will serve in the Van Doos eventually is the 08 Pattern Webbing.  This is famously canvas rather than leather which the first Canadians were shipped over to Europe issued with.  By 1916 all Canadian troops had 1908 pattern British webbing, my army is going to be circa mid 1916 so will have 08 Webbing, Lee-Enfields, and helmets. 08 Pattern Webbing Test Colours

For my first Foundry Triad test model I wasn’t satisfied with the Canvas colour (Triad #90), it tends towards green.  In the pictures and in the real example I’ve seen the canvas is yellow.  The other colour I ordered and tried was Drab as it was recommended somewhere, it is Triad #12 and has been ruled out for 08 Webbing.  While I’ve been painting terrain and other models I’ve tried out some GW and Vallejo colours.  For the Foundry Rifleman miniature I used Iyanden Darksun which if you can’t tell by the name is a GW Foundation paint.  I also tried Denab Stone on the Orlock.

Just the Foundry Rifleman modelThe secret though is the Gryphonne Sepia wash this is probably the most useful GW wash of the newest batch.  I use it to achieve a variety of effects, one thing I use it for is to “age” stuff, it also can darken and had a grittiness though if you use a lot of it the model will get a bit shiny.  What I should have done is possibly two basecoats of the Foundation paint then a Gryphonne Sepia wash, or Foundation base coat, wash, then Foundation again as the first highlights.  It all comes down to how much time you want to spend on your webbing.

What I did for the Foundry Rifleman test model was one coat of Iyanden Darksun, one layer of highlights of Vallejo Beige (Model Colour 917), and then a reasonable Gryphonne Sepia wash.  After that was dry I did some edge highlights of Vallejo Beige again.  I think I needed the two base coats of Denab stone and to delay using Beige and possibly GW’s Bleached Bone is a closer colour to use as a highlight, I gave the shirt and tabbard of the Orlock an extra wash and highlights with Bleached Bone, some people seem to paint their webbing more beige than yellow, we’ll see what the Lead Adventure Forum folks have to say, it looks yellow to me in prints, photos, and surviving examples.

It is 12:14 AM here Pacific Standard Time, timezones another Canadian invention, anyway it is also time for bed.  I’ll paint the weapons and the skin next as I’ve pretty much decided to give the Foundry Flesh Triad (#5) another go, possibly with a wash or an even lighter highlight from a GW flesh colour.  The Orlock as a test Servant of Decay will get a rather unnaturally unhealthy blue grey skin tone.

Hot weather isn’t good for painting, at least if you’re relatively poor and live in an old building…


WW1 Canadian Corps Colour Scheme

Note the ‘u’ in colour, that’s the Canadian spelling, Firefox seems to think it is a mistake…  So as promised once I got the old figures off my paint table I would start on some new test figures.  The models pictured below are my first Foundry Triad WW1 Colour Scheme trial model beside a GW Orlock which will be painted as a Servant of Decay and a Foundry Rifleman which will be painted as WW1 Canadian Corps, a Van Doo in fact. WW1 English Uniform Test Figures

The models were first cleaned with an exacto knife and a small set of files.  The bases are just beach sand for the WIP figs.  The finished model has a resin trench warfare base, I’ll be buying more of those as the Servants of Decay and the Van Doos progress and grow into a substantial force.  I’m going to do 1500 points of Servants of Decay and maybe bulk that up a little more later, for the Van Doos, I’ll do a platoon, there should have only ever been a hundred and sixteen ever at one time, so painting all of them might be possible, but that is probably too much to promise.

Anyway after cleaning the model, they were spray painted chaos black.  They were then painted more black using whatever black I had on hand, very possibly a cheap Delta Ceramcoat as I’m working on some terrain pieces still.  Once the models were good and black I then got out my P3 Wet Palette which really isn’t necessary, but I did use it, so I better mention that, and more importantly my Foundry English Uniform Brown triad, number 100 for those who prefer to use the numbers.  First I put the A or shade on all the uniform parts then I put the B or main color on most of the uniform parts then I put the C or highlight on the parts I thought should have it, mostly raised folds.

When that was all dry I put a reasonable wash of Devlan Mud, this is GW’s new dark brown wash, all over the uniforms.  I used an old trick and laid the models on their backs while the wash dried.  Once that was dried I got out a smaller brush, size zero, I’d used size one for every other coat.  With the size zero I got some more 100C English Uniform Brown highlight and painted mostly the edges and the most extreme raised areas or just more towards the top of the model.  You really just giver to use Canadian parlance.

Then I got the three models and took them to my makeshift photo box, used my iPhone 3GS to take a couple snaps and wrote this here blog post.  I’ll also be starting a thread on Lead Adventure forum as they take painting WW1 models pretty seriously and I want to get feedback.  I’m more than willing to do another test figure or two to get a good look that isn’t too much work.

Freshly Assembled Miniatures

So despite today being a big sports day and despite it possibly being the best UFC card ever, I walked home and immediately started working on finishing up the models I started assembling today.  These are the models I mentioned in my previous post.  From right to left they are an all metal GW plaguebearer, a Foundry 25mm British/Canadian WW1 Rifleman,  an old OOP plastic Khorne Bezerker, an almost as old plastic Necromunda Orlock, a hodgepodge of a Plaguemarine armed with a melta gun, and finally, another kit bash of a Chaos Space Marine armed with a heavy bolter.

Some of my old OOP GW figures

These models will be part of my Diseased Sons, Nefarious Fire, or Servants of Decay armies/warbands.  The plaguebearer is mainly for fun and the WW1 model is to test a paint scheme for the Canadian Corps.  The rifleman is noticeably smaller than more recent models, even the Orlock looks small but that is actually correctly scaled next to a Chaos Space Marine.  The Necromunda fig is so old, it hasn’t seen the light of day since I lived in Yellowknife.  That was during the second edition of Warhammer 40,000.  I’m surprised I even remembered it was an Orlock.  The Goliath gangers may look more chaotic, but I think the Orlock will allow me to test my brown, black, and purple paint scheme better. Models before UFC PPV

Some of the knifes got broken off the Goliaths but I repaired them.  There are basically two poses per gang with a variety of guns.  There were spare guns and lord knows I have bits, the problem is most of my bits are for space marines.  My vaunted bit box is running out of Chaos Space Marine legs, even torsos.  I was also out of backpacks of the non-Khorne variety.  The only plastic chaos backpacks I could turn up were from second or first edition.  I’ve converted so many loyalists to the dark side I’ve used up most of my backpacks and torsos.  I gotta stop buying loyalists… Of course I’m trying not to buy any models, I have plenty of one piece metal chaos space marines, including a pile of Bezerkers.

Models after UFC PPV and more workI also am running out of suitably Nurgly heads.  One of the most recent, in fact the most recent chaos kits I’ve bought is the possessed so those bits are getting pressed into service.  One thing I have plenty of is shoulder pads, if you like your shoulder pads fancy.  I have piles of metal Deathguard ones, so I keep using about one a mini when I do a Nurgle guy.  I used one of the new Space Wolf shoulder pads on the Heavy Bolter guy.  His legs and torso are pretty plane Jane, but I made sure to get his gun assembled well, though it too two tries.  His head is a loyalist head, from the Black Templars upgrade sprue I think, I like heads with targeters for my heavy weapons guys.