Warcry at the Sentry Box

Apparently in addition to yet being able to paint, I still remember how to play miniature wargames as I went undefeated in Warcry at the Sentry Box last weekend…

Apparently in addition to yet being able to paint, I still remember how to play miniature wargames as I went undefeated in Warcry at the Sentry Box last weekend. That was one of the last gaming events in Alberta for a while as we are being strongly encouraged to stay home now due to the Coronavirus. I’ve been working from home since then, no gym, not supposed to go out except if necessary. I did a little painting, but I need my desk for my work laptop. Apparently I am an expert at T-SQL and SSRS now, at least for a few more weeks.

Winning at Warcry

Bill of course will say it was all luck, but the truth is it was not getting distracted by shiny newly painted models and focussing on completing the mission. When playing as goblins you are usually at a disadvantage because your guys are smaller and weaker than than the enemy in almost every case. The traditional goblin equalizer is cheating using wacky warmachines. There are no warmachines in Warcry. So how do goblins or Gloomspite Gitz win?Game One of Warcry

Are spreadsheets the answer?

Self proclaimed Internet experts seem to build spreadsheets, then film YouTube videos where they distill their wisdom. But how many hits on average you do against toughness three or toughness four doesn’t seem that important to me having actually played Warcry against random opponents. What seems important to me is:

  • High Movement
  • Key Initiative Roles
  • Outnumbering Your Opponent

Lots of Attacks = More Criticals

I played against the Iron Golems and the good guys. They didn’t have a lot of toughness three or even four models. They had a lot of higher toughness models that I often could only wound on a five or a six. Warcry follows GW tradition in that a one always misses and a six always hits, but in Warcry a six is a critical. So rolling more attacks is good and of course doing extra damage on the six is better. Gloomspite Gitz can use a triple to “Stab em Good” they can also use a double to “backstab”. I see no reason they can’t do both if they activate two models carefully positioned.

Squighopper intercepts an Ogre

Killing Isn’t Everything

Even with all those extra attacks you don’t actually need to kill anyone to win, this is where speed or maneuverability comes in. In both missions I played there were objectives, one game had six and one game had just one. In both cases I strategically chose to defend and use my superior numbers to grab objectives quickly. Even coming on late, Squighoppers which move ten whole inches, twenty if they double move are great. They also have more attacks than a Boingrot Bounder which as the biggest toughest model in your gang becomes a giant target, so don’t grab the treasure with him, use him as a decoy or feed him to some combat monster.

Sacrificial Goblins

I played Skaven mostly in Bloodbowl and was famous for my fall down defence. In the original Necromunda and my memories getting hazy but probably Mordheim too, your leader was more valuable than any other ganger and you had to worry about running away. In Warcry, games only last three turns in general and although valuable your leader is as expendable as is any other goblin. Obviously in a campaign your thinking will change as models gain skills but in a one off game, I sacrificed my more expensive models and my netter to try and slow up the bigger enemy models while I used lesser gobbos and my squig to grab the goods.Gloomspite Gitz Dagger and Hammer

Ranged Attacks are Useful

Bill says there are Twists that make them less useful and I know two attacks at strength three doesn’t seem like much, but I’d much rather shoot at an Ogre with bows than have to fight him in H2H. The double volley of arrows is more effective and again you need those sixes but if I paint more models and revamp my Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang I’d have more Squighoppers, more Shootas and more Netters. Netters are only 45 points and although two out of three times I missed the crucial netting roll after spending the double, the fact that a 45 point model can hold up a 200+ point model for a single turn is a valuable skill.

What about Nurgle?

I bought the Maggotkin of Nurgle card pack for Warcry and although Nurglings getting 30 wounds or something ridiculous sounds impressive if you scroll back above I think speed, winning key initiative rolls, and outnumbering your opponent are more valuable than having the biggest toughest model on the board. Luckily some Nurgle daemons fly, so I would definitely buy and paint some of those models. I could use them in 40K too, so I just might. But first I’ll paint more Nurglings, I actually think Gloomspite Gitz is likely a better gang than Nurgle daemons. I’ve played all Nurgle daemons in Warhammer Fantasy Battle before they are slow, have almost no ranged attacks and get outmaneuvered, outshot, outmagiced, and charged. Warcry is of course a different game but one of the uses of lots of models, is making the enemy charge you so you get double attacks back with your activation. Exploiting that and using your flying guys well is likely key for Nurgle in Warcry.

New Warcry cards and paints

What’s Next?

During isolation I probably won’t get much gaming in, though I might play my first video game on my new laptop. I of course must work from home and I will also be taking a selfstudy course for work when the book arrives. I paid extra for the e-Book so lets see if I can download that now should I get ePub or PDF or both? Anyway for the purpose of this blog I primed more models, yet more Nurglings and I bought more paints, even more Contrast paints so that means more Contrast Nurglings are coming. I’m also going to try some Contrast paints out on my OOP Necromunda Escher gang. I need to paint more efficiently and if Contrast paints will help me, why wouldn’t I use them? Alas I just seem to end up using multiple washes and highlights on top of the Contrast Paint anyway.

It appears I will be reading another 325 pages about T-SQL, but I’ll also try to do some painting during the time of the Coronavirus. If you have any thoughts on miniature painting, Warcry, Gloomspite Gitz, Nurgle or Necromunda you can leave them below.

 

 

 

Warcry Gloomspite Gitz Gang is Done

It has taken a while, some of these models I’ve owned since the 1990s. Some of these models were still in blisters from the 90s but now I have a fully painted and even a fully based Night Goblin err Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang…

It has taken a while, some of these models I’ve owned since the 1990s. Some of these models were still in blisters from the 90s but now I have a fully painted and even a fully based Night Goblin err Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang and this weekend if the pandemic doesn’t stop us they will descend upon the Sentry Box and the unsuspecting.

If you’ve been following me on Instagram you’d know I’ve been making progress despite my work, gym, and study schedule. I finally painted for seven hours straight last Saturday and another three hours on Sunday to get them to “done”. It is unlikely I will paint that hard again for a long time. Loyal readers will remember me painting until the wee hours and updating this blog before 40K tournaments.

Posting from a  New Laptop

Another thing that finally happened this year is I got a new laptop, two new laptops if you count the one work assigned me in case we all have to work from home. I was looking at docks that support Thunderbolt or at least USB-C just today. The reason this was important is it took a long time to transfer all my date to my new MacBook Air and that held up my painting as did reading 100s of pages about Python and Finance. My laptop is nice, but switching form self hosted to WordPress.com is confusing me a bit.

Goblin Skin

Painting Goblin Skin

The goblin skin may have been completely painted by January 27th. They were largely done the same as the previous two batches. I start with black primer and build up to a paint called “Moth Green” made by Reaper. That is my new recipe and new brightest green. If you want even brighter greenskins you can highlight up to yellow or I guess even white or you can apply several glazes of green. If you like paler greenskins you can use colors similar to GW’s old “Rotting Flesh” or Vallejo makes a color called “Green Grey” which I actually used on the squigs too. I’ve also been given a bunch of Reaper skintones including “Moldy Skin” which is a pale greenish color.

Painting Black Fabric

My black recipe is also not top secret. I use the Foundry Charcoal Black triad. I may need to replace it soon, but it along with a black wash is good enough. You can of course go to a lighter grey and I do that sometimes using Citadel and Vallejo paint to highlight the edges further.

Painting Purple

My purple recipe has changed over the years, I use a Foundry Triad for that too, but I also think it benefits a lot from a thin purple wash. I can also go brighter if I feel like it. These models took a long time so I didn’t want to spend more time on their robes than I had to. The Contrast Purple is pretty good and I actually used it for my squig eyes. One thing to remember about the Foundry Triads is you don’t have to go A, B, C. You can start with the midtone then just do a wash, of go midtone then shade or midtone then highlight. I used to have different orders I used for different triads. Going A, B, C is safe to start with but usually you need a second coat of B or C to get the best results after a wash.

Purple Fabric

Top Secret Squig Recipe

The key to getting good flavour out of a squig, I mean color is lots of thin coats. I have three squigs in my Warcry gang. Actually because I’ve never played I tried to get the greatest variety of models in my gang so I have one squig, one squig hopper, and Boingrot Bounder. The paint I used on all three is called Aethermatic Blue. I painted over Wraithbone most of the time. As you may recall I primed my goblins black, this meant the squigs got primed black too, well the ones with riders did. If I had to do it all over again, I’d paint the Boingrot Bounder in pieces, that is what the experts will do.

If you’re not an expert and you’re just trying to get your models “battle ready” you have to decide what is more import, easier black robes or brightly coloured squigs. If you want your cake and to eat it too, you can do what I did and hand paint two coats of Wraithbone then two coats of Aehtermatic Blue then a bunch of thinned washes both blue and green along with the aforementioned strange Vallejo highlight colors including my latest discovery “Light Green Blue” which is darker than “Green Grey”.

WIP Squigs

Painting Teeth and Bones

Apparently another of my specialties is painting bones. You’re in luck the new Contrast Paint, Skeleton Horde works great over Wraithbone. I used it on skulls and horns and it is fine for goblin teeth. But if you want your squig mouths to be red too, you need to paint the red between the teeth either with paint or a wash or even Contrast Paint. GW seems to think you should use them as a base coat but you can use them as a wash or a glaze, remember GW recommends not thinning them with water so I generally use them at full strength but you can thin them with something else. Although Skeleton Horde is a winner, you can still highlight with a beige or bone color, I have several from GW and Vallejo. You can also do a thin red or even red and black wash if you want a more unique look. Highlighting with pure white was also done especially on teeth for these models.

Metallics and Other Details

I used mostly GW metallic paint, some very old pots, but many of my oldest paints had to be junked out. The era of GW paint with either the flip or twist bolter lids is the worst. Every single pot I had from that era dried out while my paints were in storage whereas some of my Ork VS Eldar paint set still works though I wonder how many pots are left from then, I still see my original Hawk Turquoise paint pot among my current collection but I can’t recall using it since I moved to Calgary. For metallics I recommend a wash, you can use black, brown, sepia, even multiple washes. I still use my “Rust Brown Ink” that is almost as old as my Ork Vs Eldar paint set paints. I think my “Waaargh Green Ink” is older and I definitely used it on the squigs if not the goblins. I need a new leather brown paint and likely a few other midtones they seem to run out first with the lightest colors lasting the longest because I paint a lot of dark evil models. White and black also dry out quickly and need regular replacing.

Remember no matter what you’re painting the same basic principles hold, multiple thin coats and thin washes being better than drowning your model in the latest greatest wonder wash. In fact now on YouTube there are many tutorials where you can see people wet blending and using lots of glazes, these advanced techniques aren’t that hard and I used them plenty on previous models.

Secret Squig Skin Recipe Number Three

Although I used Wraithbone and Aethermatic Blue for two squigs, for the third squig I painted it grey, I think a Foundation grey, those are paints that also dry out easily. I then put highlights on the grey then over the highlights two heavy washes of Contrast Paint. Then I built up the highlights using various grey, blue, green colors and of course thin washes. I think it came out pretty good, but it is not my best work.


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OMG #Warmongers I painted for about seven hours Saturday and then maybe three more hours Sunday that wasn’t healthy. This was all to get my #Warcry gang of #gloomspitegitz but honestly it is mostly #NightGoblins I got the #goblins in the #warhammerfantasybattle 4th Edition boxset and I’ve slowly been painting them since the 90s. If I had to do it all over I wouldn’t have a horde army and of course I’d force myself to lower my #painting standards even further. I bought the box of new #squighoppers as I wanted a Boingrot Bounder in my gang and that was a frustrating #model to assemble and paint. I even did freehand on the mask/helmet. This guy is more #oldschool or #oldhammer he has #freehand #purpleflames on his hat but the star of the show is the #squig face. It isn’t my best work but I spent extra time on it and used likely a unique combination of paints. This model was #primedblack which is fin for the goblin but not for #contrastpaint which I used on all three of my squigs. The color I chose was #aethermaticblue which I used over #wraithbone on the other models but for this model I painted a #grey #foundationpaint on to the black then highlighted the grey using #citedelpaints and #vallejo paints. After 2-3 highlights I put two coats of Aethermatic Blue over the grey. Then I used more green greys to highlight the face and thin blue and green washes to shade and glaze. I also spent time on the teeth, eventually I had to say “Enough” though I ended up highlighting the nose and doing some #blacklining in the mouth. I made the back of this model cooler as well and painted the warts with terracotta, orange and I believe some yellow glaze. All that remains is to base them. #PaintingWarhammer #Wargaming #GamesWorkshop #MiniatureMonday #MiniPainting #GW #eavymetal

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Basing Goblins

These goblins are based the same way the last 50 plus were. I used a brown called “Terra Cotta” two words made by Delta Ceramcoat and I used two coats. Then I used all kinds of different basing materials that I acquired and thought might work for an Autumnal scheme, which should be fine for Warcry and Gloomspite Gitz they have desserts in the Age of Sigmar somewhere. I liked the “dead grass” that Citadel made but I also used basing material from Galeforce Nine, Woodland Scenics and others.

Night Goblins with Autumnal Bases

New Lamp

While painting for hours and hours I decided that although I had three lights on my desk I needed more light. So experts online recommend a natural LED based light so I got one on Amazon and it is soon to be famous if you have a shelve above your desk like me. I haven’t gotten to paint by it yet, it literally just arrived, but I think it will be a winner. It is powered by USB hence why I need a USB hub or dock on my desk real soon now.

Witness my new LED desk lamp

What Will I Paint Next?

Nurglings, Bill doesn’t understand it but they are legal in Warcry now and I think they are good models for testing paint combinations. I also have long schemed of a horde of Nurglings, others can have their hordes of cultists or plague zombies, I want a horde of Nurglings obstructing any clever tactic my opponent comes up with. I’ll also be painting one of my original Escher gangers Wraithbone and trying the Contrast Skin color out, they are still primed Smelly Primer from the 90s. I don’t know what I’ll put in my gang, but it will be an Escher gang and have some vintage conversions and of course it’ll be purple and green.

If you have painting advice or questions or you’re an Internet Expert in Warcry or Necromunda you can try to leave a comment below.