Posts Tagged ‘Goblin’

I finally got my hands on the new Orc and Goblin army book for Warhammer Fantasy battle. All the cool Orc and Goblin players already had it and have been adapting their armies to the newest rules. What I lack in coolness I make up for in stubbornness and weirdness. Here is the 2000 point all Goblin army I’m going to be running some day. I actually have almost every single goblin painted, I just need to do some basing and some shields.

I plan on running the new mega spider with a Shaman on top so I use up almost all of my Lord allowance. The core of my army remains however three big blogs of infantry, three war machines, and a hero to lead each mob. When I totalled it all up, using most of my allotment for magic items, I was just 80 or 90 points short of 2000, enter the Squig Hoppers. I might eventually go higher points and run a second Lord on a Gigantic Spider or even just a Big Boss and a block of spider riders to continue the spider theme. Not sure what I’ll do with all my ork models, maybe I’ll sell them or use some of them for 40K…

Here is a picture of my ‘bigger’ unit of Night Goblins. It is the only unit completely finished, complete with Shaman leader Icky Bob.

Night Goblin Archer Horde

Army List

Lord

  • Goblin Great Shaman, riding Arachnarok Spider, with Catchweb Shrine and Opal Amulet 490 points

Heroes

  • Night Goblin Shaman with extra level, Ironcurse Icon, and Dispell Scroll 115 points
  • Goblin Big Boss, Battle Standard Bearer, Mork’s War Banner, Light Armour and Shield 164 points
  • Night Goblin Big Boss, Light Armor and Short Bow, Enchanted Shield, and Obsidian Loadstone 84 points

Core

  • 54 Night Goblins with Short Bows, full command, three fanatics  267 points
  • 29 Night Goblins with Short Bows, full command, three fanatics, and nets 237 points
  • 65 Goblins with spears, shields, and light armor, full command and three skulkers 320 points

Special

  • 6 Night Goblin Squig Hoppers 72 points

Rare

  • 2 Doom Divers 160 points
  • 1 Stone Thrower 85 points

Philosophy

My theoryhammer, besides just finding a use for all the old plastic goblins I own and have almost gotten painted over the years, is, the goblins do the fighting.  So much so I don’t even have a single ork in my army, even though the ten point bully might be worth it.  I went with a hero in each squad as the heroes and the upgrades arguably will do more damage than the actual goblins.

Having played once and a while, generally every second edition of the game, I know goblins aren’t very good, but lots of them can look intimidating.  The plan with the massive units is to not take panic checks.  Every hero has defensive magic items, that boost their squad, I even opted for the most expensive magic banner.  I also hope to dominate the magic phase and maybe even the shooting.  The war machines can hurt most anything and the big spider should be able to handle itself.  My main plan is to advance so I can’t run away in the first turn, release the squigs and just wait.  Bombard the enemy with stones and spells and eventually arrows.  After they get through all that I release the fanatics and hope to halt the charges.  But if all else fails hopefully 60 plus goblins in a horde is a tough nut to crack.  The Night Goblin units run away often, but hopefully not before they release their fanatics and get off a volley or two of arrows.

Wish me luck.

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Although I seem to be known as a Nurgle guy, my first army was Orks in Warhammer 40,000 during the legendary Rogue Trader era.  Why? Because no one played orks in our group and they forced me to.  I never won a single game during the Rogue Trader era.  Things didn’t get that much better in 2nd Edition due to infiltrating Assassins with virus grenades or just the virus outbreak strategy card.  There was a serious lack of play testing involved back then.

My friends made me assemble more models just so they could kill more models.  That’s why my fantasy army sat undone but assembled for years.  Me, I generally only assemble models I plan to paint. So pretty much any assembled but un-primed models in my household were put together at the urging and with the aid of Arden or Kathy or perhaps Paul…  I don’t know what the obsession with bigger games is.  I’m content to play 1500 points, in fact smaller games require you to make harder decisions when choosing your army list.

But that is not what this post is about. I’ve slowly been working through my massive collection of single pose plastic goblins, well massive for me.  However I have almost as many single pose Goffs and Gretchin.  In fact it is these models and a lot of losses to Eldar and Space Marines that moved me towards Nurgle.  Now my Nurgle miniature collection is almost painted out and I’m doing other Chaos Powers, Orks and Goblins are still on my long term “ta do list”.  I regular stop in at the Waaagh forums.  I’ve also starting doing test figures and what better models to test paints on then, 2nd Edition Gretchin. Servant of Decay from behind

The black basecoated one was done up for some contest on the Waaagh that I didn’t have time for.  The first grey one, was a test of Krylon Primer that went badly marring the face and the entire paint job.  The third Gretchin and the 2nd grey one, the one without the squig on the base, was also primed with Krylon Grey primer.  I discovered that Krylon Grey primer is the exact same shade of grey as Adeptus Battle Grey, or at least so close as to not matter.  This may be useful information to Imperial Guard players and will prompt me to paint another test Servant of Decay.

My original test figure for my Servants of Decay army was painted over a black base coat and used Foundry English Uniform Brown triad for the main uniform color.  Brown is a good army color and a good Nurgle color.  However the Nefarious fire are black with purple flames so purple and flames was always going to fit into my Servants of Decay scheme too, but I didn’t want black uniforms.  I was thinking grey uniforms… Now I think a plastic Goliath ganger will be painted up from a Krylon grey base coat and it will have grey clothing rather than brown…

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

However the point of this post is to show off the three gretchin I’ve been chipping away at, each with it’s own skin color.  The black gretchin got the traditional Ork Flesh up to Bilious Green layer technique that has been used on greenskins since the Rogue Trader era.  I only used a single wash on this model and it was the new Thrakka Green.

The poorly primed gretchin got a Gretchin Green basecoat, a color I never use in painting ork flesh, followed by a Camo Green highlight.  Then the model was given two washes of Thrakka Green.  Next it received another Camo Green highlight as the bad priming job obscures a lot of detail so it is better to paint highlights than rely on gravity to add lowlights for this model.  Finally this model got Rotting Flesh and Vallejo Model Color Green Grey highlights.

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

The third Gretchin is an experiment into the wash your way to victory or at least wash your way to a nice fleshtone.  John Blanche used brown paint and green wash to do some orks and that look has caught on some.  TastyTaste seems to think using Devlan Mud is evil, but have you ever seen a model painted by TastyTaste? I haven’t.  I’m pretty sure he’s not overly burdened by Golden Demons if you know what I mean.

Letting washes dry

Letting washes dry

People on the Waaagh forums have gotten good results using the new GW washes and various colors you wouldn’t associate with painting green skin.  I took a stab at it and started with Dheneb Stone for my basecoat over the grey.  This didn’t cover so well or look quite right so I immediately followed that with a quick highlight of Vallejo Model Color Beige.  Then I got more on script and did a fairly heavy wash of Devlan Mud and after drying time, two fairly heavy washes of Thrakka Green.

I’m not sure how much time this really saves when you factor in drying time, but if you’re painting 40 Gretchin it probably does save some time.  It is also a bit messy so doing the skin first then fixing the areas that are just primer is easier than doing the skin later and fixing more painted portions of the model.

It looked OK after three washes and just a single highlight, but I was highlighting the other models so I gave it a Green Grey highlight which fixed things some.  Maybe the highlights are less realistic, but they look better especially at arms length.  One thing about this Dheneb Stone and Beige technique is it leaves the eyeballs and teeth looking decent, where as the dark green traditional method you definitely have to work on the teeth and eyes more to get them to look right.  I’m still not sold on painting over grey, tomorrow I will try out red, metallic, and some other common colors.

Almost finished green skin

Almost finished green skin

Stay tuned…

So having finished off two terrain tiles, I cleaned up my painting area pretty good, put away most of the materials and bits that were littering the floor and set about getting some models finished an off my painting table.  The first batch I decided to finished were mostly already painted.  The batch consisted of some new Nurgle demons that I’d been painting on the side and experimenting on, also added to the queue was an old plastic goblin spearman.  This model had a bent spear and hadn’t been seen for years having gotten stuck to some foam.  I fixed the spear and gave the model an average actually better than average paintjob, plus affixed a shield to him. Touching up and finishing miniatures

The two models I finished first were too old mid 90s Diseased Sons character models.  Both were converted to have jump packs, one an old Ork jump pack and the other a converted metal loyalist jump pack.  Back in the day during 1st and 2nd edition jump pack characters were all the rage.  They usually had conversion or possibly even displacer fields which made them tough to kill.  Now-a-days models seem to go about in rhinos and land raiders as it is safer and the models are cheaper and readily available.

Old plastic Goblin SpearmanThe one with no helmet is Oderous the Unclean he was the lord/leader in the early days of the Diseased Sons.  The other model which is in Crusader Armor was usually used as a lieutenant, sometimes both would be in an army list.  He only has a chainsword whereas Oderous usually used a Plague Sword or sometimes a Deamon Weapon when I went a bit over the top.

These models were considered pretty damn well painted back in 96 or 97.  I learned that once sealed you can’t use washes much on old minis so when I update one, I generally just add highlights or paint in lowlights.  These models got the tiny line treatment and because they have sentimental value and I wasn’t in a hurry I touched up and improved a lot of things about the models, from Oderous’s face to the leather bits.  This is the best these models have ever looked. Old Diseased Sons HQ

I still don’t think they’ll see the tabletop much, I may make another lord with wings someday, but generally I try to keep costs down on my HQ and like everyone else stick them with a squad in a vehicle for safety.  I was going to make some Nurgle Raptors and I’ll probably still do it someday, but first I think I’ll do Khorne Raptors it makes more sense tactically.  I’m also trying not to buy stuff, but to complete a squad of 8 Khorne Raptors I may need another jump pack or two plus possibly legs… Though I think I’ll get buy it will be the Noisemarines which I’ll do someday too, that will require the buying of some more legs and torsos.

WIP PlaguebearersThe models that I put a lot of work into, especially relative to their importance are the Nurgle demons.  I don’t need more painted Nurgle demons, I can’t even use them in a Chaos Space Marine army currently.  However I bought some both for fun and because I had a plan for hordes of Nurglings…  After buying and assembling them they sat primed in a box for years so slowly I’m working through them.  I think I have six more stands to go.  I use Nurglines and Plaguebearers to try out new techniques and color combinations, sometimes I just use up paint on them left on my palette.

These models were mostly finished prior to the terrain building period, but I still had enough bits undone to try some more stuff out.  The blue grey skin may become a fixture of my Servants of Decay force.  The Zombie on the Nurgling base was painted similar to how I did the sandbags with GW greens: Gretchin, Camo, and Rotting Flesh.  Camo isn’t so important now that I have Gretchin green, it is probably better for zombies anyway.  I used washes mostly Badaab Black and Devlan Mud but also probably Gryphonne Sepia.  Most of my plague demons will look similar to this one, but I’ll try to streamline the technique some. Three dark reds made by Reaper

Plaguebearers with dark red gutsThe other thing I wanted to test was the new Reaper brand dark reds I bought.  The plaguebearers especially the pale one had lots of exposed guts these got covered in Terracotta Clay, Bloodstain Red, and Clotted Red.  Clotted Red is the big winner it covers well and is a nice dark red. The others are more brown, still useful but when trying to get say a squad done I’ll be keeping my red recipe as simple as possible.  I will be painting some Khorne worshiping models and I don’t want them wearing no sissy red.  GW reds especially the new ones tend towards orange.  I don’t want that.

I’m going to Vancouver Island for a few days, see the family, watch the World Wup final with my cousin from Austria.  So I’m trying to get these models done before I go.  I tried finishing them last night but it is getting hot in Vancouver even late into the night.  The reds are drying right now, soon I’ll give them some washes and some highlights with GW reds, I have plenty of those then finish off their weapons and the rags on the one model and they’ll be done.

I tried to use my Awesome Paint Job.com Drying Blood wash but despite shaking regularly it separates and then gums up its dispenser.  I ended up mixing a bit of the thick stuff with water and using that.  I bought three of these washes and the only one that has worked is well I used an excessive amount of Cool Gray again because it gummed up and came out in a big blurt.  I’ve taken to poking a needle in the Reaper and these pots, Vallejo gives me less trouble but it separates too, it just mixes back together better. Next four models I will paint

I have various red washes, glazes, and inks mostly old GW stuff, but you can buy artist ink.  I’ve been buying some of that mostly orange, sepia, and flesh.  I have this olive green one too, but I haven’t tried it.  Oh well maybe on the next batch of Nurglings.

I’m using pigment mixed with water and my beloved old Rust Brown Ink to make the rust on the Plaguebearers blades.  I’ll also probably mix in some orange paint as I often do two or three tones of rust to get an interest effect.  My mom just called so I have to wrap up the miniatures and this post and make sure I don’t miss the 5 o’clock ferry.  It is only 2:30 but I also have to pack and take out the garbage…  I wish I would have done the laundry I guess yesterday, but I guess it will just wait until I return.

I’m going to try the Krylon Matte sealant on these models.  I used it on some of my scatter terrain, nothing bad happened, but we gotta wait and see how it wears, I don’t play much, but I do use my models in games occasionally.  When I get back from Vancouver Island I’ll work on these four tester models and maybe yet more Nurgle demons.

Nurgling Stand

Plaguebearer of Nurgle

Plaguebearer of Nurgle

Contrary to what you may have read elsewhere online, I do know how to paint Nurgle models.