Revising Waaagh Musk 40K

As mentioned yesterday I actually got out the Ork Codex and wrote out a 1500 point army list. I tried to use as many of the painted models as I could legally, but I also left room for some new conversions and the new kits, particularly the Trukk and Battlewagon kits GW has released over the last couple years.

Once again I couldn’t sleep last night, so before taking a pill, I wrote a slightly different and more flexible army list. This list isn’t 1500 points, it is 1392 points. It is the core of Waaagh Musk for the next year or two. It still has two Big Meks and still has two Dreads as Troops, it still has too mobs of Shoota boys, and two Looted Wagons. What it doesn’t have is either Burna Boyz or Lootas. Both seem good to me, most stuff in the Codex seems good, though obviously I’ll learn the hard way that BS 2 isn’t as good as BS 4. Oh well, this army is most definitely just for fun. Orks are the fun army, the comic relief army, and I’m going to try and have some fun building and converting my army to work with this Codex and 5th Edition Warhammer 40,000.

Still WIP Gretchin
Still WIP Gretchin

Tonight I have modest dinner plans, but who knows when they will end. I also did the laundry today, but minutiae like that isn’t why people come to my blog. I’m still painting grots. I’ve decided to finish off the two nicer ones today and leave the third one at the end of the paint queue to be finished at a more leaseieruely pace. I paint the black parts black with my now traditional Foundry Charcoal Black Triad plus Badaab Black wash system. I’ll probably highlight a tad more. The grey jerkin just got a wash of Badaab Black. Again some people drown grey in black wash and then call it highlighted black, that isn’t really my style. I plan to paint on some highlights but I’ll take a picture first.

After the black/grey jerkins and boots, all that requires painting is the skull, the belt and ammo pouches, and of course eyes and teeth. Totally doable in an hour or so. So I’m not sure when but this evening I’ll publish this blog post with shots of the finished models and update Flickr.

In the mean time here is Waaagh Musk in brief:

  • HQ: Big Mek #1 “Lone Gunman” with Shokk Attack gun and stuff 105 points
  • HQ: Big Mek #2 “Musk” with Burna, Warbike, and lots of stuff 128 points
  • TR: “Black Knight” Dread with two Kustom Kombi Weapons 105 points
  • TR: “Rainbow Warrior” Dread with one Kustom Kombi Weapon and one Rokkit 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axe Shoota Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Boss Pole 97 points
  • HS: “Big Burna” Looted Rhino with Skorcha, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 90 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moon Shoot Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Power Klaw, Boss Pole, Trukk, Boarding Plank 162 points
  • HS: “Gobsmasha” Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 130 points
  • HS: Battlewagon with Killa Kannon and other stuff including Zzap Gun 185 points
  • EL: Nobz Mob with Waaagh Banner, Pain Boy, Grot Orderly, Boss Pole, Power Klaw and likely more 140+ points
  • –: Nobz ride, Battlewagon with Deff Rolla, Zzap Gun, and other stuff 150 points
Two contrasting Gretchin
Two contrasting Gretchin

This army will score higher in Astronomi-con army comp as it only has one Elite choice. It currently has no Fast Attack choice but I plan to try out all of them except Storm Boyz. My unfinished Storm Boy conversions which I forgot I even started have been demoted to ground pounder status. All my red, black, and white models are in one big mob. I actually took four one piece metal models out of that mob last night and put them with the models I plan to strip, as they had shootas not sluggas in the current parlance. That squad is 20 strong now and has two big shootas.

That squad has no Nob as all the white, black, and red nobz and all the oddboyz are on another shelf. Some of them will get used I’m sure, but I have so many unpainted models both OOP and from AoBR that it will be hard for me to use all of them under the current rules. Oh well I’ll touch them up and update their bases. I looked at the pictures in the Codex and heavily armored Nobz, Big Meks, and Warbosses get 40mm bases, not all nobz, though some follow that practice. I might but I need a lot of 40mm round bases.

I have so many things I want to paint, we’ll see when the Blood Axes, who I plan to do first, finally make it on to the painting table. I’ll eventually be doing a lot of new Nobz and Fast Attack choices including some Deff Koptas as I like to outflank and I think anti-armor despite the ordnance, the Shokk Attack gun, and lots of rokkits already… Anyway I have six Deff Koptas so I may paint up five, though they are expensive. Orks at least have lots of Power Klaws, though I only have two in my army so far, I’ll put one on a Warbikker Nob for sure.

Primered Black Gretchin

Primered Grey Gretchin

Update December 2019

It is now many years later and I have not finished the third Gretchin let alone gotten my old Ork army on the field of battle. My new painting plans doesn’t include too many more Greenskins as I’ve painted so many and used them so rarely. I’ll get back to Nurgle and in a true blast from the past, Necromunda Escher gangers.

Ye Olde Hobby Blog Update

So today hasn’t been the best day for hobby progress. I slept in, but I did go to Richmond and Imperial Hobbies to buy some more paint and stuff. Last night while I couldn’t sleep I finally made an actual army list for Waaagh Musk 40K. This is my old Space Ork army from Rogue Trader and 2nd Edition. With the exception of painting two Gorka Morka gangs, I haven’t used any of those figs for years.

More tools of the trade
More tools of the trade

When the last codex was rumored to be coming out I started to think what it would take to get my army back on the table. I made plans, I bought stuff. I never made an army list though I did realize that even with just the painted and partially painted stuff I have a full Force Org chart worth of stuff. Of course a lot of my models are illegal or at least not quite right. A lot of heavy weapons will need to be swapped, vehicles will need to be modified, new HQ will be in order, but the actual amount of work is less than the Servants of Decay and it requires negligible special orders and no major purchases, maybe three kits and a single blister would be enough.

Most everything in the codex I have an OOP version of with the exception of the battle wagon and trukks. My trukk has a skorcha so the plan is to convert it into a War Trak Skorcha. I liked my War Traks and Skorchas back in the day and in Gorka Morka so lots of flamer templates will be in order. I also want to try some of the new kits and the Loota rules seem good so the only new squads will be Lootas/Burnas. Everything else is either painted or partially painted. Here is my first 1500 point list I’ll be working towards, but I already think I’d change it up a bit if I took it to Astronomi-con:

  • HQ: Big Mek with Shock Attack Gun 110 points
  • HQ: Big Mek with Burna on Warbike 98 points
  • EL: 7 X Lootas, Mek, Grot Oiler 110 points
  • FA: 4 x Warbikes with a Nob 140 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 105 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axes with Shootas and Nob 97 points
  • HS: Looted Rhino with Skorcha 95 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moons with Nob and Trukk 157 points
  • HS: Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ie Gobsmasha 130 points
  • HS: Battle Wagon with Killa Kannon 185 points
  • EL: 5 X Burna Boys with Mek 80 points
  • FA: 2 X Skorchas, one with Grot Riggas 85 points

If you read that and said it wouldn’t score very well in Astronomi-con Army Comp, you’re over thinking things. This is an army that hasn’t been used in a decade that was cobbled together under way different rules and will be kitbashed into legality. When I learned I could use dreads as troops if I took Big Meks I was all over that, but I’d probably be fine with one less Mek, maybe even just a simple Big Mek on foot would be best, then I could afford more Warbikes, Burna Boyz, Skorchas, possibly even a Nobz Mob in a Battle Wagon. I might do that all sometime down the road, but the official target army list for Waaagh Musk is listed above and detailed over on the Waaagh.

I still plan to do the Servants of Decay army. I’ll be painting another test figure for it over grey primer someday soon. However as someone who is still unemployed, though I did apply to at least three new jobs today, placing a large order to Forgeworld is a ways off. I need some Forgeworld goodies for my Chaos Spacemarines, or at least I’d like a Rhino conversion kit and the Bezerker Terminator bits. Those would figure into my 2011 Astro-Van army. I need a lot of stuff for the Servants of Decay hundreds of dollars worth of stuff. I could paint 100 orks and not have to buy a model, but to field the army listed above will require a few new kits and maybe some bitz too.

WIP Gretchin
WIP Gretchin

I threw some more paint on the Gretchin, the metal bitz are done and I started on some blue fabric type tests. I used the Foundation Blue then the new GW Wash as I figured that is what most people would do. I later highlighted with an old pot of Lightning Blue. I discovered I like painting Brazen Brass way better over Black than over Grey, even after washing it. Painting Silver over Grey or Gunmetal is no problems. One of the paints I bought today is the darkest Vallejo metallic I could find. I also bought some Reaper Master Series paint, well one pot, and some Water Effects which I’ll use on my terrain tiles, which I hope to resume later this month.

Stay tuned for lots more painting, but I really hope I get a job soon and have to fight harder for hobby and blogging time. I also hope I can get my sleep schedule normalized, we’ll see what the latest blood test reveals.

Continuing the Gretchin

Yesterday I started on three Gretchins, one with a black base coat and a traditional dark to light green skin highlighting technique, the other two with grey base coats and more experimental flesh painting. I couldn’t leave well enough alone so late last night I did another wash, this time of Gryphonne Sepia on just the two grey primered models.

Finished Green Skin
Finished Green Skin

The first color I wanted to test painting over grey, was of course white. The easiest way I know to get a good white over a black base coat is to use Astronomican Grey then paint white over that. So that is what I did to the black primered gretchin. Actually the first thing I did was fix up the base coats, the black model required a lot less touchups than the wash heavy models. The final thing I did to this model’s trousers was to paint a tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia into the recesses and creases. I may do another quick white highlight.

White pants Yellow boot
White pants Yellow boot

The better primed grey Gretchin, the one without the squig, also got white trousers.  I just went straight Skull White over the primer.  It didn’t work too well. I pressed on and mixed up a thinned down wash made from Codex Grey, this was applied liberally to the pants.  This had to dry for a bit, so it was time to type and wait. After that I’ll definitely be painting another layer of white on the pants.

The next hardest color to paint over black is yellow. This has gotten easier due to Iyanden Dark Sun. I used that right over the black. Over the grey I opted for Golden Yellow. This is an older pot that Owen gave me. It is a good darker richer yellow, but it is best to use it over another color even orange… However it went right over the grey OK… We’ll see how it looks after a wash and some highlights.

Next for the black primered model was a coat of Golden Yellow, for the grey primered model I went with a thinned down orange wash made from Windsor & Newton Orange Ink. Next for the black primered model was Gryphonne Sepia wash on the yellow bootie. I did a highlight of Sunburst Yellow on the other bootie, this is an even older GW paint pot. Finally I got out my Badmoon Yellow paint pot and painted that on both booties. Neither is winning any prizes, I still think for painting yellow it is best to start from an orange or brown basecoat.

Painting orange and yellow
Painting orange and yellow

The next color I wanted to try was Orange it also benefits from a Foundation color, but can still be a tricky color to get right, not as tricky as yellow though… I think the wooden part of the autogun will be orange on both models. You can see how the undercoat makes a difference on how a color looks when just using a single coat.

The next color I used after taking the photo was Blood Angel Orange, that’s right Orange! Paul Taylor traded me this pot for some color I had doubles of back in the 90s. It is pretty thin and actually darker than Macharius Solar Orange so maybe it should have gone on before, but it doesn’t have near the amount of pigment or covering properties. After that was dry it was time for Fiery Orange which is a really useful color for Ork players as is Macharius Solar Orange as you can use it to make nice rust washes…

Beginning Metals
Beginning Metals

I actually bought a new bright orange, called Fire Orange from Reaper Master Series line of paints so I used that for edge highlights next. I still was feeling like it could be better so I used Golden Yellow which is a pretty dark yellow.  That’s enough sometimes I don’t like to use Yellow to highlight Orange or Red but sometimes I do… Next up are metallics which is where a black basecoat has an advantage over white but not necessarily grey.

I put Boltgun metal straight from the pot on various parts of the three Gretchin then took a photo. One of my new gritty metallic recipes is to cover boltgun metal with two new GW washes first black then mud. After they have dried I paint highlights on with Chainmail or Silver. For these models having already painted parts of the models orange, white, and yellow I have to be even more careful with the washes. I don’t come from the new school where you just slather the mini in magic wash.

I think that is about all that is going to get done this evening. I’ll try to work on them more tomorrow. Writing the tutorials and comparing the color combos makes things go slower. After a few more colors bone, brown, black, and grey plus possibly blue I’ll be mostly done and just blitzkrieg through.

Painting Green Skin

Although I seem to be known as a Nurgle guy, my first army was Orks in Warhammer 40,000 during the legendary Rogue Trader era.  Why? Because no one played orks in our group and they forced me to.  I never won a single game during the Rogue Trader era. Things didn’t get that much better in 2nd Edition due to infiltrating Assassins with virus grenades or just the virus outbreak strategy card. There was a serious lack of play testing involved back then.

My friends made me assemble more models just so they could kill more models. That’s why my fantasy army sat undone but assembled for years. Me, I generally only assemble models I plan to paint. So pretty much any assembled but un-primed models in my household were put together at the urging and with the aid of Arden or Kathy or perhaps Paul… I don’t know what the obsession with bigger games is. I’m content to play 1500 points, in fact smaller games require you to make harder decisions when choosing your army list.

But that is not what this post is about. I’ve slowly been working through my massive collection of single pose plastic goblins, well massive for me. However I have almost as many single pose Goffs and Gretchin. In fact it is these models and a lot of losses to Eldar and Space Marines that moved me towards Nurgle. Now my Nurgle miniature collection is almost painted out and I’m doing other Chaos Powers, Orks and Goblins are still on my long term “ta do list”. I regularly stop in at the Waaagh forums. I’ve also starting doing test figures and what better models to test paints on then, 2nd Edition Gretchin. Servant of Decay from behind

The black basecoated one was done up for some contest on the Waaagh that I didn’t have time for. The first grey one, was a test of Krylon Primer that went badly marring the face and the entire paint job. The third Gretchin and the 2nd grey one, the one without the squig on the base, was also primed with Krylon Grey primer. I discovered that Krylon Grey primer is the exact same shade of grey as Adeptus Battle Grey, or at least so close as to not matter. This may be useful information to Imperial Guard players and will prompt me to paint another test Servant of Decay.

My original test figure for my Servants of Decay army was painted over a black base coat and used Foundry English Uniform Brown triad for the main uniform color. Brown is a good army color and a good Nurgle color.  However the Nefarious Fire are black with purple flames so purple and flames was always going to fit into my Servants of Decay scheme too, but I didn’t want black uniforms. I was thinking grey uniforms… Now I think a plastic Goliath ganger will be painted up from a Krylon grey base coat and it will have grey clothing rather than brown…

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin
Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

However the point of this post is to show off the three gretchin I’ve been chipping away at, each with it’s own skin color. The black gretchin got the traditional Ork Flesh up to Bilious Green layer technique that has been used on greenskins since the Rogue Trader era. I only used a single wash on this model and it was the new Thrakka Green.

The poorly primed gretchin got a Gretchin Green basecoat, a color I never use in painting ork flesh, followed by a Camo Green highlight. Then the model was given two washes of Thrakka Green. Next it received another Camo Green highlight as the bad priming job obscures a lot of detail so it is better to paint highlights than rely on gravity to add lowlights for this model. Finally this model got Rotting Flesh and Vallejo Model Color Green Grey highlights.

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint
Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

The third Gretchin is an experiment into the wash your way to victory or at least wash your way to a nice fleshtone. John Blanche used brown paint and green wash to do some orks and that look has caught on some. TastyTaste seems to think using Devlan Mud is evil, but have you ever seen a model painted by TastyTaste? I haven’t. I’m pretty sure he’s not overly burdened by Golden Demons if you know what I mean.

Letting washes dry
Letting washes dry

People on the Waaagh forums have gotten good results using the new GW washes and various colors you wouldn’t associate with painting green skin. I took a stab at it and started with Dheneb Stone for my basecoat over the grey. This didn’t cover so well or look quite right so I immediately followed that with a quick highlight of Vallejo Model Color Beige. Then I got more on script and did a fairly heavy wash of Devlan Mud and after drying time, two fairly heavy washes of Thrakka Green.

I’m not sure how much time this really saves when you factor in drying time, but if you’re painting 40 Gretchin it probably does save some time. It is also a bit messy so doing the skin first then fixing the areas that are just primer is easier than doing the skin later and fixing more painted portions of the model.

It looked OK after three washes and just a single highlight, but I was highlighting the other models so I gave it a Green Grey highlight which fixed things some. Maybe the highlights are less realistic, but they look better especially at arms length. One thing about this Dheneb Stone and Beige technique is it leaves the eyeballs and teeth looking decent, where as the dark green traditional method you definitely have to work on the teeth and eyes more to get them to look right. I’m still not sold on painting over grey, tomorrow I will try out red, metallic, and some other common colors.

Almost finished green skin
Almost finished green skin

The Importance of Testing Spray Primer

Remember how I talked about priming my old OOP Slaneesh Daemons grey? Remember how I decided to test how this would work with the Grey Krylon Primer I bought? Well their is a method to my madness, and no amount of purple text will make you smart.

Problems priming miniature
Problems priming miniature

Last night in between magnetic squares I primed the test Gretchin grey. It did not go well. I shook the can pretty good but all that came out of it in the first spray was vaguely yellow goop. I wiped as much of that off the model as I could with my fingers and shook the spray can even more. I tried spraying the Gretchin again and a big blob of grey primer comes out and lands right on the Gretchin’s face.

I shook the can even more rotated the model and finally got an almost acceptable spread of paint.

Lots of people have recommended this exact brand of grey primer. It is used by professional artists, it is sold in high end fancy art stores, yet it is cheaper than GW primer. Some claim GW’s isn’t even a primer just black spray paint which is probably true.

Bad Primer?
Bad Primer?

I was mildly annoyed at this development. I was glad it didn’t happen to my OOP Daemons, but at the same time my test figure was seriously compromised. So I got another 2nd Edition Warhammer 40,000 plastic gretchin out from their hiding place. I cleaned the model, even drilled out the barrel for the nit picky. I then primed it. It went a little better. I ended up rotating both models a bit and called them done after one more shot of Krylon Grey primer this morning.

I took photos naturally.

What do you do with the spots that aren’t primed? When the model is black or white it seems obvious you fix the primer with that colour. I don’t know if I have a grey that exactly matches Krylon Grey primer. I have a lot of greys, maybe Foundation Astronomican Grey is close enough. It should go on to bare metal and plastic OK… I’m tempted to just use black though. I’ve become something of a convert to basecoating models with Delta Ceramcoat black. It is really matte, the Chaos Black is notably shinier.

The minis are salvageable
The minis are salvageable

One problem I did discover with the Delta Ceramcoat is it doesn’t stick to sheet styrene well. Yet another thing in favour of using balsa wood.

I still got my great Goblin baseoff to do. I’m expirementing with the basing material I have and contemplating biking to Strategies or Grand Prix Hobbies or both in search of some milder flock than that red stuff. I tried using UHU glue just in spots, with a dip in the ballast then a sprinkling of red stuff. I even got out two pairs of tweezers to try and minimize and position the red stuff. I plan to give the static grass, which I’ve never used, the special leaves, which I’ve never used, and the lichen which I’ve barely used another go. I think if I get a decent proportion of material the red will not dominate and people won’t complain that the ballast isn’t shaded…

It’s my damn army anyway. I really do need to get a squad of Night Goblins finished. It has only taken me 15+ years, they’ll be done by Saturday evening, all 55. Well 58 including the fanatics. I’m going to paint five fresh recruits, they are being primed Chaos Black right now.