Continuing the Gretchin

Yesterday I started on three Gretchins, one with a black base coat and a traditional dark to light green skin highlighting technique, the other two with grey base coats and more experimental flesh painting. I couldn’t leave well enough alone so late last night I did another wash, this time of Gryphonne Sepia on just the two grey primered models.

Finished Green Skin
Finished Green Skin

The first color I wanted to test painting over grey, was of course white. The easiest way I know to get a good white over a black base coat is to use Astronomican Grey then paint white over that. So that is what I did to the black primered gretchin. Actually the first thing I did was fix up the base coats, the black model required a lot less touchups than the wash heavy models. The final thing I did to this model’s trousers was to paint a tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia into the recesses and creases. I may do another quick white highlight.

White pants Yellow boot
White pants Yellow boot

The better primed grey Gretchin, the one without the squig, also got white trousers.  I just went straight Skull White over the primer.  It didn’t work too well. I pressed on and mixed up a thinned down wash made from Codex Grey, this was applied liberally to the pants.  This had to dry for a bit, so it was time to type and wait. After that I’ll definitely be painting another layer of white on the pants.

The next hardest color to paint over black is yellow. This has gotten easier due to Iyanden Dark Sun. I used that right over the black. Over the grey I opted for Golden Yellow. This is an older pot that Owen gave me. It is a good darker richer yellow, but it is best to use it over another color even orange… However it went right over the grey OK… We’ll see how it looks after a wash and some highlights.

Next for the black primered model was a coat of Golden Yellow, for the grey primered model I went with a thinned down orange wash made from Windsor & Newton Orange Ink. Next for the black primered model was Gryphonne Sepia wash on the yellow bootie. I did a highlight of Sunburst Yellow on the other bootie, this is an even older GW paint pot. Finally I got out my Badmoon Yellow paint pot and painted that on both booties. Neither is winning any prizes, I still think for painting yellow it is best to start from an orange or brown basecoat.

Painting orange and yellow
Painting orange and yellow

The next color I wanted to try was Orange it also benefits from a Foundation color, but can still be a tricky color to get right, not as tricky as yellow though… I think the wooden part of the autogun will be orange on both models. You can see how the undercoat makes a difference on how a color looks when just using a single coat.

The next color I used after taking the photo was Blood Angel Orange, that’s right Orange! Paul Taylor traded me this pot for some color I had doubles of back in the 90s. It is pretty thin and actually darker than Macharius Solar Orange so maybe it should have gone on before, but it doesn’t have near the amount of pigment or covering properties. After that was dry it was time for Fiery Orange which is a really useful color for Ork players as is Macharius Solar Orange as you can use it to make nice rust washes…

Beginning Metals
Beginning Metals

I actually bought a new bright orange, called Fire Orange from Reaper Master Series line of paints so I used that for edge highlights next. I still was feeling like it could be better so I used Golden Yellow which is a pretty dark yellow.  That’s enough sometimes I don’t like to use Yellow to highlight Orange or Red but sometimes I do… Next up are metallics which is where a black basecoat has an advantage over white but not necessarily grey.

I put Boltgun metal straight from the pot on various parts of the three Gretchin then took a photo. One of my new gritty metallic recipes is to cover boltgun metal with two new GW washes first black then mud. After they have dried I paint highlights on with Chainmail or Silver. For these models having already painted parts of the models orange, white, and yellow I have to be even more careful with the washes. I don’t come from the new school where you just slather the mini in magic wash.

I think that is about all that is going to get done this evening. I’ll try to work on them more tomorrow. Writing the tutorials and comparing the color combos makes things go slower. After a few more colors bone, brown, black, and grey plus possibly blue I’ll be mostly done and just blitzkrieg through.

Painting Green Skin

Although I seem to be known as a Nurgle guy, my first army was Orks in Warhammer 40,000 during the legendary Rogue Trader era.  Why? Because no one played orks in our group and they forced me to.  I never won a single game during the Rogue Trader era. Things didn’t get that much better in 2nd Edition due to infiltrating Assassins with virus grenades or just the virus outbreak strategy card. There was a serious lack of play testing involved back then.

My friends made me assemble more models just so they could kill more models. That’s why my fantasy army sat undone but assembled for years. Me, I generally only assemble models I plan to paint. So pretty much any assembled but un-primed models in my household were put together at the urging and with the aid of Arden or Kathy or perhaps Paul… I don’t know what the obsession with bigger games is. I’m content to play 1500 points, in fact smaller games require you to make harder decisions when choosing your army list.

But that is not what this post is about. I’ve slowly been working through my massive collection of single pose plastic goblins, well massive for me. However I have almost as many single pose Goffs and Gretchin. In fact it is these models and a lot of losses to Eldar and Space Marines that moved me towards Nurgle. Now my Nurgle miniature collection is almost painted out and I’m doing other Chaos Powers, Orks and Goblins are still on my long term “ta do list”. I regularly stop in at the Waaagh forums. I’ve also starting doing test figures and what better models to test paints on then, 2nd Edition Gretchin. Servant of Decay from behind

The black basecoated one was done up for some contest on the Waaagh that I didn’t have time for. The first grey one, was a test of Krylon Primer that went badly marring the face and the entire paint job. The third Gretchin and the 2nd grey one, the one without the squig on the base, was also primed with Krylon Grey primer. I discovered that Krylon Grey primer is the exact same shade of grey as Adeptus Battle Grey, or at least so close as to not matter. This may be useful information to Imperial Guard players and will prompt me to paint another test Servant of Decay.

My original test figure for my Servants of Decay army was painted over a black base coat and used Foundry English Uniform Brown triad for the main uniform color. Brown is a good army color and a good Nurgle color.  However the Nefarious Fire are black with purple flames so purple and flames was always going to fit into my Servants of Decay scheme too, but I didn’t want black uniforms. I was thinking grey uniforms… Now I think a plastic Goliath ganger will be painted up from a Krylon grey base coat and it will have grey clothing rather than brown…

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin
Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

However the point of this post is to show off the three gretchin I’ve been chipping away at, each with it’s own skin color. The black gretchin got the traditional Ork Flesh up to Bilious Green layer technique that has been used on greenskins since the Rogue Trader era. I only used a single wash on this model and it was the new Thrakka Green.

The poorly primed gretchin got a Gretchin Green basecoat, a color I never use in painting ork flesh, followed by a Camo Green highlight. Then the model was given two washes of Thrakka Green. Next it received another Camo Green highlight as the bad priming job obscures a lot of detail so it is better to paint highlights than rely on gravity to add lowlights for this model. Finally this model got Rotting Flesh and Vallejo Model Color Green Grey highlights.

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint
Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

The third Gretchin is an experiment into the wash your way to victory or at least wash your way to a nice fleshtone. John Blanche used brown paint and green wash to do some orks and that look has caught on some. TastyTaste seems to think using Devlan Mud is evil, but have you ever seen a model painted by TastyTaste? I haven’t. I’m pretty sure he’s not overly burdened by Golden Demons if you know what I mean.

Letting washes dry
Letting washes dry

People on the Waaagh forums have gotten good results using the new GW washes and various colors you wouldn’t associate with painting green skin. I took a stab at it and started with Dheneb Stone for my basecoat over the grey. This didn’t cover so well or look quite right so I immediately followed that with a quick highlight of Vallejo Model Color Beige. Then I got more on script and did a fairly heavy wash of Devlan Mud and after drying time, two fairly heavy washes of Thrakka Green.

I’m not sure how much time this really saves when you factor in drying time, but if you’re painting 40 Gretchin it probably does save some time. It is also a bit messy so doing the skin first then fixing the areas that are just primer is easier than doing the skin later and fixing more painted portions of the model.

It looked OK after three washes and just a single highlight, but I was highlighting the other models so I gave it a Green Grey highlight which fixed things some. Maybe the highlights are less realistic, but they look better especially at arms length. One thing about this Dheneb Stone and Beige technique is it leaves the eyeballs and teeth looking decent, where as the dark green traditional method you definitely have to work on the teeth and eyes more to get them to look right. I’m still not sold on painting over grey, tomorrow I will try out red, metallic, and some other common colors.

Almost finished green skin
Almost finished green skin