Posts Tagged ‘GW’

As part of my generally not very successful life and career post Sauder MBA, I had to move, putting all my stuff in storage until I can find a permanent job.  My job search has continued to go very poorly and I don’t have any answers or fresh ideas on where to apply or what type of position I would finally be “the right fit” for. Anyway as part of my move I had to take all my painted minis out of the three glass Ikea cases I bought for them and put them somewhere. Fuzz box budget foam miniature storage

I own several miniature cases. Some I’ve my made myself. Some I’ve adapted from gun or computer cases. I’ve cut my share of foam and I’ve bought cases from GW and Charon. I don’t play much, haven’t played a miniature wargame in well over a year, see first paragraph for the reason why. But when I do play I usually need about 1500 points maybe 2000 which works out to about 40-50 guys plus a couple tanks and walkers or if I’m playing fantasy more men but less big models. Sabol pick and pluck foam

I got my customized Charon case to hold just about anything, since then the truly custom laser cut foam has come on the market. I may get one of those cases someday, cut to match my next army, if I ever do a next army. But in the mean time I discovered I didn’t have enough cases, especially good cases with nice mini-specific foam to move all my models at once.  So I ended up moving them in stages. I filled up the Charon case and maybe the GW case and moved those models to my mother’s house, then later I brought back the empty cases and moved the rest of my collection using every case I had.

I thought about buying some more foam or a dedicated miniature case then, but I didn’t want to rush my purchase decision and I’m well past broke from being unemployed for so long, so movement expenses were being kept to a minimum. Several months have gone by and my minis have sat on a shelf I cleared of books or in a case in storage at my mom’s house or in a storage locker on Terminal. Miniatures in need of a foam home

It was recently Christmas and my 36th birthday so I got given some money and not wanting to spend it, I didn’t. However I keep reading more books and need that shelf space back, my mom’s house has too much stuff in it, and miniatures just sitting on a shelf are at risk so I bought some econo miniature cases I read about online.  I got 5 of them from the War Store for 50 something dollars and I bought two more Sabol Design foam pieces that I can use to store the bigger more awkward models.

The econo boxes are the bigger ones, the so-called Fuzz Boxes. They can hold a lot of models for about 10 bucks, but the spaces look a little small, now that I have them in my hands, especially for Chaos Space Marines. I’ve previously cut GW and Charon foam to make room for spikes and big guns and it is possible to get larger foam cutouts, but not this cheap. The budget boxes are all one size fits all.  I may get out the scissors,  I also may repack the Charon and GW case as they have some goblins in them, Goblins are much smaller but spear goblins are difficult to pack none the less.  Most of my 4th Edition Warhammer Fantasy Battle spear goblins are in a rifle case at the back of a storage locker. The archers and misc. other goblin models may be repacked into these econo boxes.

Some day I may have the money and space to have dedicated foam, if not a dedicated case for every model. As it is I’m unemployed, and many of my models never even see the table top and many had not even seen the outside of a miniature case until I bought the Ikea cases and put almost every model I ever painted on display in my apartment for no one to see.

UpdateOld plastic goblins in budget foam

A few days later I brought all or most of my miniature cases into my bedroom at my mom’s house and tried to figure out which models would fit best in the new foam.  As I suspected the old GW goblin archers fit best. I have two units of those, the spear goblins are in storage in a rifle case but you can see from the photos how they fit less well.  My old Rogue Trader era and 2nd Edition Space Orks fit pretty well in the budget foam cases and the other models that got volunteered are my one piece metal plaguebearers. Old OOP Space Orks

I cut the odd little gap but I couldn’t safely fit my big spikey Chaos Space Marines in the budget boxes. I also couldn’t make enough room for them in my Charon Productions and GW foam.  I used the Sabol foam to make my three dreadnoughts a home. I need a better long term solution for my orks and goblins, my Silent Death space ships, and models on 40mm round or square bases or motorcycle bases. My ork models like that are in an old tool box I’ve lined with foam, but my Chaos Space Marines are just too numerous.  I have one piece of Charon Productions foam that has larger spots, but an even better solution is needed. Whether that involves pluck and pull foam, custom cut foam, or just ordering more specialty foam, I don’t know. Metal Plaguebearers in foam

I don’t know if I’ll ever start another army or even ‘improve’ the two old ork and goblin armies.  I’m out of practice painting and my life is not going well so time for hobbies I do not have. Everything will set in storage as is at my mother’s house for the foreseeable future. Maybe after sixth edition comes out, I’ll dust off the Diseased Sons and the Nefarious Fire and play some games, but I’m not optimistic I’ll get a lot a use of my miniature collection in 2012 or even 2013. Dreadnoughts in their new foam

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I haven’t had much time and energy to devote to painting miniatures let alone playing any games, I am still seeking full time employment.  About all I do is follow blogs in my RSS readers.  I’ve found some new ones lately that I like and I have a few old favourites so here are some recommendations for those people interested in miniature painting, modeling, and miniature wargaming particularly games produced by Games Workshop.

  • Dylan Gould’s Model Works shares a love for the mid 90s GW models that we both grew up reading about as much as painting.  Kids these days don’t know how good they have it with the Internet, world wide web, and smart phones.  I’m still somewhat surprised that video games haven’t completely killed off the hobby.
  • Recalcitrant Daze is an even more recent discovery that seems to be working on Nurgle and Orks for Warhammer 40,000. Just like I would if my life was better and I had time and energy to spare.
  • Rust and the City is doing a Nurgle Renegades army based on the rules published in Imperial Armour 7 from Forgeworld, just like I always said I was going to do…
  • Fawcett Avenue Conscripts are also older than the average GW fanboy and seem to have a number of old school veteran armies that they drag out and use and continue to expand.
  • Roundwood’s World shows just how good a modular WW1 trench table can look.  Maybe I’ll finish my modular trench table eventually.
  • Kings Minis is another blog devoted to a large and growing collection of old GW models that still get used in games.

There, go subscribe to the RSS feeds of these blogs, they won’t be as disappointing as they are making progress on their projects and include lots of nice pictures and interesting models you don’t see every day.

As mentioned yesterday I actually got out the Ork Codex and wrote out a 1500 point army list.  I tried to use as many of the painted models as I could legally, but I also left room for some new conversions and the new kits, particularly the Trukk and Battlewagon kits GW has released over the last couple years.

Once again I couldn’t sleep last night, so before taking a pill, I wrote a slightly different and more flexible army list.  This list isn’t 1500 points, it is 1392 points.  It is the core of Waaagh Musk for the next year or two.  It still has two Big Meks and still has two Dreads as Troops, it still has too mobs of Shoota boys, and two Looted Wagons.  What it doesn’t have is either Burna Boyz or Lootas.  Both seem good to me, most stuff in the Codex seems good, though obviously I’ll learn the hard way that BS 2 isn’t as good as BS 4.  Oh well, this army is most definitely just for fun.  Orks are the fun army, the comic relief army, and I’m going to try and have some fun building and converting my army to work with this Codex and 5th Edition Warhammer 40,000.

Still WIP Gretchin

Still WIP Gretchin

Tonight I have modest dinner plans, but who knows when they will end.  I also did the laundry today, but minutiae like that isn’t why people come to my blog.  I’m still painting grots. I’ve decided to finish off the two nicer ones today and leave the third one at the end of the paint queue to be finished at a more leaseieruely pace.  I’m paint the black parts black with my now traditional Foundry Charcoal Black Triad plus Badaab Black wash system.  I’ll probably highlight a tad more.  The grey jerkin just got a wash of Badaab Black.  Again some people drown grey in black wash and then call it highlighted black, that isn’t really my style.  I plan to paint on some highlights but I’ll take a picture first.

After the black/grey jerkins and boots, all that requires painting is the skull, the belt and ammo pouches, and of course eyes and teeth.  Totally doable in an hour or so.  So I’m not sure when but this evening I’ll publish this blog post with shots of the finished models and update Flickr.

In the mean time here is Waaagh Musk in brief:

  • HQ: Big Mek #1 “Lone Gunman” with Shokk Attack gun and stuff 105 points
  • HQ: Big Mek #2 “Musk” with Burna, Warbike, and lots of stuff 128 points
  • TR: “Black Knight” Dread with two Kustom Kombi Weapons 105 points
  • TR: “Rainbow Warrior” Dread with one Kustom Kombi Weapon and one Rokkit 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axe Shoota Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Boss Pole 97 points
  • HS: “Big Burna” Looted Rhino with Skorcha, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 90 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moon Shoot Boyz, Rokkit, Nob, Power Klaw, Boss Pole, Trukk, Boarding Plank 162 points
  • HS: “Gobsmasha” Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ‘Ard Case, and other stuff 130 points
  • HS: Battlewagon with Killa Kannon and other stuff including Zzap Gun 185 points
  • EL: Nobz Mob with Waaagh Banner, Pain Boy, Grot Orderly, Boss Pole, Power Klaw and likely more 140+ points
  • –: Nobz ride, Battlewagon with Deff Rolla, Zzap Gun, and other stuff 150 points
Two contrasting Gretchin

Two contrasting Gretchin

This army will score higher in Astronomi-con army comp as it only has one Elite choice.  It currently has no Fast Attack choice but I plan to try out all of them except Storm Boyz.  My unfinished Storm Boy conversions which I forgot I even started have been demoted to ground pounder status.  All my red, black, and white models are in one big mob.  I actually took four one piece metal models out of that mob last night and put them with the models I plan to strip, as they had shootas not sluggas in the current parlance.  That squad is 20 strong now and has two big shootas.

That squad has no Nob as all the white, black, and red nobz and all the oddboyz are on another shelf.  Some of them will get used I’m sure, but I have so many unpainted models both OOP and from AoBR that it will be hard for me to use all of them under the current rules.  Oh well I’ll touch them up and update their bases.  I looked at the pictures in the Codex and heavily armored Nobz, Big Meks, and Warbosses get 40mm bases, not all nobz, though some follow that practice.  I might but I need a lot of 40mm round bases.

I have so many things I want to paint, we’ll see when the Blood Axes, who I plan to do first, finally make it on to the painting table.  I’ll eventually be doing a lot of new Nobz and Fast Attack choices including some Deff Koptas as I like to outflank and I think anti-armor despite the ordnance, the Shokk Attack gun, and lots of rokkits already…  Anyway I have six Deff Koptas so I may paint up five, though they are expensive.  Orks at least have lots of Power Klaws, though I only have two in my army so far, I’ll put one on a Warbikker Nob for sure.

Primered Black Gretchin

Primered Grey Gretchin

So today hasn’t been the best day for hobby progress.  I slept in, but I did go to Richmond and Imperial Hobbies to buy some more paint and stuff.  Last night while I couldn’t sleep I finally made an actual army list for Waaagh Musk 40K.  This is my old Space Ork army from Rogue Trader and 2nd Edition.  With the exception of painting two Gorka Morka gangs, I haven’t used any of those figs for years.

More tools of the trade

More tools of the trade

When the last codex was rumored to be coming out I started to think what it would take to get my army back on the table.  I made plans, I bought stuff. I never made an army list though I did realize that even with just the painted and partially painted stuff I have a full Force Org chart worth of stuff.  Of course a lot of my models are illegal or at least not quite right.  A lot of heavy weapons will need to be swapped, vehicles will need to be modified, new HQ will be in order, but the actual amount of work is less than the Servants of Decay and it requires negligible special orders and no major purchases, maybe three kits and a single blister would be enough.

Most everything in the codex I have an OOP version of with the exception of the battle wagon and trukks.  My trukk has a skorcha so the plan is to convert it into a War Trak Skorcha.  I liked my War Traks and Skorchas back in the day and in Gorka Morka so lots of flamer templates will be in order.  I also want to try some of the new kits and the Loota rules seem good so the only new squads will be Lootas/Burnas.  Everything else is either painted or partially painted.  Here is my first 1500 point list I’ll be working towards, but I already think I’d change it up a bit if I took it to Astronomi-con:

  • HQ: Big Mek with Shock Attack Gun 110 points
  • HQ: Big Mek with Burna on Warbike 98 points
  • EL: 7 X Lootas, Mek, Grot Oiler 110 points
  • FA: 4 x Warbikes with a Nob 140 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 105 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axes with Shootas and Nob 97 points
  • HS: Looted Rhino with Skorcha 95 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moons with Nob and Trukk 157 points
  • HS: Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ie Gobsmasha 130 points
  • HS: Battle Wagon with Killa Kannon 185 points
  • EL: 5 X Burna Boys with Mek 80 points
  • FA: 2 X Skorchas, one with Grot Riggas 85 points

If you read that and said it wouldn’t score very well in Astronomi-con Army Comp, you’re over thinking things.  This is an army that hasn’t been used in a decade that was cobbled together under way different rules and will be kitbashed into legality.  When I learned I could use dreads as troops if I took Big Meks I was all over that, but I’d probably be fine with one less Mek, maybe even just a simple Big Mek on foot would be best, then I could afford more Warbikes, Burna Boyz, Skorchas, possibly even a Nobz Mob in a Battle Wagon.  I might do that all sometime down the road, but the official target army list for Waaagh Musk is listed above and detailed over on the Waaagh.

I still plan to do the Servants of Decay army.  I’ll be painting another test figure for it over grey primer someday soon.  However as someone who is still unemployed, though I did apply to at least three new jobs today, placing a large order to Forgeworld is a ways off.  I need some Forgeworld goodies for my Chaos Spacemarines, or at least I’d like a Rhino conversion kit and the Bezerker Terminator bits.  Those would figure into my 2011 Astro-Van army.  I need a lot of stuff for the Servants of Decay hundreds of dollars worth of stuff.  I could paint 100 orks and not have to buy a model, but to field the army listed above will require a few new kits and maybe some bitz too.

WIP Gretchin

WIP Gretchin

I through some more paint on the Gretchin, the metal bitz are done and I started on some blue fabric type tests.  I used the Foundation Blue then the new GW Wash as I figured that is what most people would do.  I later highlighted with an old pot of Lightning Blue.  I discovered I like painting Brazen Brass way better over Black than over Grey, even after washing it.  Painting Silver over Grey or Gunmetal is no problems.  One of the paints I bought today is the darkest Vallejo metallic I could find.  I also bought some Reaper Master Series paint, well one pot, and some Water Effects which I’ll use on my terrain tiles, which I hope to resume later this month.

Stay tuned for lots more painting, but I really hope I get a job soon and have to fight harder for hobby and blogging time.  I also hope I can get my sleep schedule normalized, we’ll see what the latest blood test reveals.

Yesterday I started on three Gretchins, one with a black base coat and a traditional dark to light green skin highlighting technique, the other two with grey base coats and more experimental flesh painting.  I couldn’t leave well enough alone so late last night I did another wash, this time of Gryphonne Sepia on just the two grey primered models.

Finished Green Skin

Finished Green Skin

The first color I wanted to test painting over grey, was of course white.  The easiest way I know to get a good white over a black base coat is to use Astronomican Grey then paint white over that.  So that is what I did to the black primered gretchin.  Actually the first thing I did was fix up the base coats, the black model required a lot less touchups than the wash heavy models.  The final thing I did to this models trousers was to paint a tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia into the recesses and creases.  I may do another quick white highlight.

White pants Yellow boot

White pants Yellow boot

The better primed grey Gretchin, the one without the squig, also got white trousers.  I just went straight Skull White over the primer.  It didn’t work too well.  I pressed on and mixed up a thinned down wash made from Codex Grey, this was applied liberally to the pants.  This had to dry for a bit, so it was time to type and wait.  After that I’ll definitely be painting another layer of white on the pants.

The next hardest color to paint over black is yellow.  This has gotten easier due to Iyanden Dark Sun.  I used that right over the black.  Over the grey I opted for Golden Yellow.  This is an older pot that Owen gave me.  It is a good darker richer yellow, but it is best to use it over another color even orange…  However it went right over the grey OK…  We’ll see how it looks after a wash and some highlights.

Next for the black primered model was a coat of Golden Yellow, for the grey primered model I went with a thinned down orange wash made from Windsor & Newton Orange Ink.  Next for the black primered model was Gryphonne Sepia wash on the yellow bootie.  I did a highlight of Sunburst Yellow on the other bootie, this is an even older GW paint pot.  Finally I got out my Badmoon Yellow paint pot and painted that on both booties.  Neither is winning any prizes, I still think for painting yellow it is best to start from an orange or brown basecoat.

Painting orange and yellow

Painting orange and yellow

The next color I wanted to try was Orange it also benefits from a Foundation color, but can still be a tricky color to get right, not as tricky as yellow though…  I think the wooden part of the autogun will be orange on both models.  You can see how the undercoat makes a difference on how a color looks when just using a single coat.

The next color I used after taking the photo was Blood Angel Orange, that’s right Orange! Paul Taylor traded me this pot for some color I had doubles of back in the 90s.  It is pretty thin and actually darker than Macharius Solar Orange so maybe it should have gone on before, but it doesn’t have near the amount of pigment or covering properties.  After that was dry it was time for Fiery Orange which is a really useful color for Ork players as is Macharius Solar Orange as you can use it to make nice rust washes…

Beginning Metals

Beginning Metals

I actually bought a new bright orange, called Fire Orange from Reaper Master Series line of paints so I used that for edge highlights next.  I still was feeling like it could be better so I used Golden Yellow which is a pretty dark yellow.  That’s enough sometimes I don’t like to use Yellow to highlight Orange or Red but sometimes I do it…  Next up is metallics where a black basecoat has advantage over white but not necessarily grey…

I put Boltgun metal straight from the pot on various parts of the three Gretchin then took a photo.  One of my new gritty metallic recipes is to cover boltgun metal with two new GW washes first black then mud.  After they have dried I paint highlights on with Chainmail or Silver.  For these models having already painted parts of the models orange, white, and yellow I have to be even more careful with the washes.  I don’t come from the new school where you just slather the mini in magic wash…

I think that is about all that is going to get done this evening.  I’ll try to work on them more tomorrow.  Writing the tutorials and comparing the color combos makes things go slower.  After a few more colors bone, brown, black, and grey plus possibly blue I’ll be mostly done and just blitzkrieg through.

Although I seem to be known as a Nurgle guy, my first army was Orks in Warhammer 40,000 during the legendary Rogue Trader era.  Why? Because no one played orks in our group and they forced me to.  I never won a single game during the Rogue Trader era.  Things didn’t get that much better in 2nd Edition due to infiltrating Assassins with virus grenades or just the virus outbreak strategy card.  There was a serious lack of play testing involved back then.

My friends made me assemble more models just so they could kill more models.  That’s why my fantasy army sat undone but assembled for years.  Me, I generally only assemble models I plan to paint. So pretty much any assembled but un-primed models in my household were put together at the urging and with the aid of Arden or Kathy or perhaps Paul…  I don’t know what the obsession with bigger games is.  I’m content to play 1500 points, in fact smaller games require you to make harder decisions when choosing your army list.

But that is not what this post is about. I’ve slowly been working through my massive collection of single pose plastic goblins, well massive for me.  However I have almost as many single pose Goffs and Gretchin.  In fact it is these models and a lot of losses to Eldar and Space Marines that moved me towards Nurgle.  Now my Nurgle miniature collection is almost painted out and I’m doing other Chaos Powers, Orks and Goblins are still on my long term “ta do list”.  I regular stop in at the Waaagh forums.  I’ve also starting doing test figures and what better models to test paints on then, 2nd Edition Gretchin. Servant of Decay from behind

The black basecoated one was done up for some contest on the Waaagh that I didn’t have time for.  The first grey one, was a test of Krylon Primer that went badly marring the face and the entire paint job.  The third Gretchin and the 2nd grey one, the one without the squig on the base, was also primed with Krylon Grey primer.  I discovered that Krylon Grey primer is the exact same shade of grey as Adeptus Battle Grey, or at least so close as to not matter.  This may be useful information to Imperial Guard players and will prompt me to paint another test Servant of Decay.

My original test figure for my Servants of Decay army was painted over a black base coat and used Foundry English Uniform Brown triad for the main uniform color.  Brown is a good army color and a good Nurgle color.  However the Nefarious fire are black with purple flames so purple and flames was always going to fit into my Servants of Decay scheme too, but I didn’t want black uniforms.  I was thinking grey uniforms… Now I think a plastic Goliath ganger will be painted up from a Krylon grey base coat and it will have grey clothing rather than brown…

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

However the point of this post is to show off the three gretchin I’ve been chipping away at, each with it’s own skin color.  The black gretchin got the traditional Ork Flesh up to Bilious Green layer technique that has been used on greenskins since the Rogue Trader era.  I only used a single wash on this model and it was the new Thrakka Green.

The poorly primed gretchin got a Gretchin Green basecoat, a color I never use in painting ork flesh, followed by a Camo Green highlight.  Then the model was given two washes of Thrakka Green.  Next it received another Camo Green highlight as the bad priming job obscures a lot of detail so it is better to paint highlights than rely on gravity to add lowlights for this model.  Finally this model got Rotting Flesh and Vallejo Model Color Green Grey highlights.

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

The third Gretchin is an experiment into the wash your way to victory or at least wash your way to a nice fleshtone.  John Blanche used brown paint and green wash to do some orks and that look has caught on some.  TastyTaste seems to think using Devlan Mud is evil, but have you ever seen a model painted by TastyTaste? I haven’t.  I’m pretty sure he’s not overly burdened by Golden Demons if you know what I mean.

Letting washes dry

Letting washes dry

People on the Waaagh forums have gotten good results using the new GW washes and various colors you wouldn’t associate with painting green skin.  I took a stab at it and started with Dheneb Stone for my basecoat over the grey.  This didn’t cover so well or look quite right so I immediately followed that with a quick highlight of Vallejo Model Color Beige.  Then I got more on script and did a fairly heavy wash of Devlan Mud and after drying time, two fairly heavy washes of Thrakka Green.

I’m not sure how much time this really saves when you factor in drying time, but if you’re painting 40 Gretchin it probably does save some time.  It is also a bit messy so doing the skin first then fixing the areas that are just primer is easier than doing the skin later and fixing more painted portions of the model.

It looked OK after three washes and just a single highlight, but I was highlighting the other models so I gave it a Green Grey highlight which fixed things some.  Maybe the highlights are less realistic, but they look better especially at arms length.  One thing about this Dheneb Stone and Beige technique is it leaves the eyeballs and teeth looking decent, where as the dark green traditional method you definitely have to work on the teeth and eyes more to get them to look right.  I’m still not sold on painting over grey, tomorrow I will try out red, metallic, and some other common colors.

Almost finished green skin

Almost finished green skin

Stay tuned…

I’m actually quite worried I won’t get my 2010 Astronomi-con Vancouver army painted in time.  I’ve decided I’m only 5 mini’s away from being done, but besides these three rank and file models I have to paint both my HQ choices.  I was going to paint a Greater Daemon too, but now I’ve realized I’ll never get it done.  If you want to see what it will eventually look like, just go back in time and see the purple Bloodletter I’ve been painting…

Models painted Black and Tin Bitz

Models painted Black and Tin Bitz

As for the three models I’ve been working on tonight, I haven’t made much progress.  After finishing the Chaos Sorcerer for the Mighty Empires Campaign at Strategies, I ran some errands and applied to a few jobs.  It also got a lot hotter.  I slept in and had to delay painting until later into the evening.  I even bought some beer to try and fight the heat.  I really should get a fan.  I just sit in my apartment and sweat.  I have to go to the washroom and wipe the sweat from my forehead.

All these models are ‘kit bashed’.  They are made of various plastic, metal, and resin bits that I’ve acquired over the years.  I’m actually running out of in-print backpacks and I think chaos space marine legs.  I have extra torsos because I use metal and resin ones, but legs I’ve mostly used up.  I’ll have to buy another box of rank and file CSM someday.

Highlighted Black Power Armour

Highlighted Black Power Armour

I’ve actually decided to change things up.  Even after painting well over 100 Chaos Space Marines I’m still trying to get it down.  By getting it down, I mean paint more efficiently.  Give me 60 hours and I’ll paint you a really nice model.  But if your goal is to paint an entire 1500 point army, especially to a high standard you have to be smart about it.  I’ve moved to the cult of the black primer, but I’m trying to give grey a shot for some models.  I seem to spend a lot of time painting black into recesses after spraying my models with Chaos Black.  I think I may give Army Painter Primer or Testors or something a try.

I swear the models are never perfectly cleaned and primed no matter how much effort I put into them.

The first thing I did was paint the armour trim Tin Bitz.  All three of these models will have different coloured power armour as they are in three different squads.  Two of them are Plaguemarines and one is a Chosen of Chaos.  I decided to paint the trim first as it defines the model.  It is something I’ve been experimenting with while painting test Bezerkers.  The trim outlines the model which helps in painting the rest and in photographing.

Innis and Gunn Beer

Innis and Gunn Beer

I painted the Chosen first as it has Black Power Armour which is actually easy to highlight if you follow my system.  I spent a lot of time working on an efficient method of highlighting black.  I also leave room for the Purple Flames which are the signature feature of the Nefarious Fire Chaos Space Marine Warband.  To highlight black after much experimentation I use Foundry Triad #34 Charcoal Black.  I apply the paint in the following order Shade, Charcoal Black, Highlight, Shade.  I use the second layer of Shade to shape the highlights.  Then I give them a little Badaab Black wash to darken and blend the highlights.  Then I use the Highlight (34C) again and if I want the model to pop, I use a lighter grey.  This time I used the new light grey I bought which is Vallejo Sky Grey.  It is actually a bit too light, but any lighter grey will serve.

I’ve gotten more selective in what I highlight.  You have to do this if you’re trying to paint entire armies and squads, especially for the square based game.  The most important parts of a model are the face, hands, and the weapon.  I left the weapons black as they will mostly be a silver metallic colour, not Tin Bitz or Brass.  The hands I did highlight up to Sky Grey but this model has no helmet, he’ll get a blue tinged flesh like most of my CSM.

It is almost midnight and I’m on to my third beer.  So this is the end for the evening.  Tomorrow I have to get up earlier walk to Strategies and try to win my first game of Warhammer 8th Edition.  I don’t fancy my chances. I will be trying to get these three models done quickly to maximize the time I have for my HQ choices.

Whenever non-hobby people see my models they always ask what size brush I used so since I’ve had to buy some new brushes and although I’m not super picky, all brushes are not created equal, here are the brushes I’m using lately.  Most of them were bought at Deserres.

Tools of the Trade

Tools of the Trade