So I’d always planned on doing the Bloodletter’s sword green and the armour of the sorcerer green, so I once again cooked up a one of kind or in this case a two of a kind colour that looks like it glows. The key to the glowing effect is to go very bright/light with the highlights and start very dark with the lowlights. Washes and glazes are also essential to my technique. I’m not sure I can make it work with any colour but it works with green and blue, I generally use it on power weapons or magic weapons. Purple can work too, but you have to highlight up to pink and that scares some people.
To get the effect seen here I had a black base coat. I then painted Orkhide Shade over it. The new GW Foundation darkest green. Then I really needed an inbetween shade, but I didn’t have one so I mixed Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Game Colour Sick Green. Then I think I did a pure Sick Green highlight, I can’t remember exactly it was yesterday. To keep the colour dark and scary I mixed up a wash of about 5 parts water, 2 parts old GW Green Wash, and 1 part Black Ink. Basically a much darker green wash, but still thinned so it would flow into the recesses.
After that dried I got out Sick Green again and starting working up the highlights. I didn’t really have a good inbetween shade, so I mixed in an old GW Jade Green. With the mixed colour and then pure Jade Green painted on as a highlight I then did a second wash. This time a thinned down Waaagh Green Ink which is an extremely old GW/Citadel product. When that was dry I started highlighting Jade Green again, but I also wanted to darken a few spots so I used the new GW Green Wash just in a few spots.
Then more Jade Green and the first green glaze. GW used to make them, they were under appreciated by their clientele I wish I had them all, but I only have a few, they have red lids. Vallejo makes some glazes, I saw them at Imperial Hobbies today. After some Jade Green and green glaze I wanted to go more extreme so I got out this bottle of Green Grey Vallejo Model Colour #971. I mixed this with the Jade Green on my P3 Wet Palette. I then painted this pale highlight on. Then another green glaze then an even paler extreme highlight was done and it was off to my bedroom to take the photos.
As I mentioned I went to Imperial Hobbies today and bought some more paint and a couple of brushes. The brushes were disappointing but they were cheap. Tomorrow I will go and buy some Deserres brushes that I’ve gotten used to, they hold their point pretty good and come in all sorts of sizes. I also bought some very bright or light colours which I’ll use on the Tzeentch and Slaneesh models I seem to be doing up, but mainly they are for the future. The Mr. Color Steel and the Flat Green will get used sooner, as might the Sky Grey.
The Gale Force 9 flock I bought the day before to use on the Goblins and other bases going forward. I’m trying to use a variety of material, instead of just sand all the time.
Today I’ve done a lot of painting, I got up early and I kept at it for most of the day. I’m working on three different chaos models. The first is my second test bezerker, the second is an old OOP Bloodletter which I’m painting up to be a generic lesser daemon, but mainly I’m practicing my dark purple skin tone technique, the final model is another old chaos model, this one is still in print, non-the-less mine is lead and will serve as a Herald of Tzeentch come Sunday at Strategies.
What I really should be working on is my Astronomi-con Vancouver army, but their is a method to my madness. The Khorne Bezerker is serving as a test model for my Forgeworld Khorne Terminator Lord conversion. The Bloodletter is a test model for a bigger daemon. Even the sorcerer could be argued that it is a test model, as I need to get that flashy look for my Slaneesh Sorcerer I’ll take to the tournament.
Well with all the time I put in, I could have put in even more, and none of the models are finished. I had hoped to start on three other models today, but tomorrow will do. I did a lot of work on the Bezerker’s red armour, the Bloodletter’s purple skin, and the sorcerer’s grey robe.
The model I’ve done the least on since the last blog post is the Bezerker. I finished the purple flames using the Foundry Royal Purple Triad pretty much as they intended. I’ve been having brush troubles today. Several brushes were retired and I couldn’t find a good ‘0’ or ’00’. I’ve been focusing on speed and buying and using bigger brushes, that now when I want to paint flames or fine highlights my tools are letting me down. Tomorrow I will invest in some new brushes. I’m tempted to go to Imperial Hobbies because a few gabs have appeared in my paint collection. Specifically I need a green between Orkhide Shade and say VMC Sick Green. I ended up making one…
So the greens on the Bezerker are for his seems or tubes or whatever. I painted them Orkhide Shade then tried to go right to Sick Green but it ended up looking way too Christmas tree-ish. I then mixed a darker green for the other models. I also had troubles getting the green in the tiny gaps without damaging my red or grey highlights. The other thing I did on the Bezerker was it’s ‘silver’ metallic stuff. I didn’t use silver, but rather GW’s Chainmail. This was way too shiny, so another dark gunmetal colour would be nice too. I can darken Chainmail with Badaab Black and Devlan Mud wash but there is always a risk of spillage or seepage, so I think I’d prefer an even simpler metal. I have Boltgun Metal but I think something even darker than that would find many uses in my painting.
The Bloodletter got his skin finished off. It came out pretty well, but eventually I just had to say enough because I have bigger models to work on and I need to get them done within two weeks. Thankfully I’m unemployed… The skin was painted GW’s Liche Purple twice. I let black come through, I missed painting a little bit of stuff on one shoulder, I thought it was a necklace but it was his collar bone. After that I think I did the first part of Foundry’s Royal Purple Triad, but perhaps before that a custom dark purple wash. Then I worked up the Royal Purple Triad followed by a thinned old purple wash. Then it was basically Royal Purple Triad Highlight along with some glazes. I might go slightly pinker maybe to Warlock Purple on the big fella, we’ll see how it looks and how much time it takes.
I also did some striations. Yet another place where I needed a good sharp point. I actually have some really tiny brushes, but I need zeros and double zeros too.
The Sorcerer got a pretty surreal grey robe. I didn’t use that many different greys, basically just GW ones, two Foundation ones, and one regular one. In fact I chucked out a light grey, which doing some infantory I think I need four colours and I’m going to try non-GW ones, preferably in the dropper style bottles. Sometimes they come out too much, but generally they are pretty easy to work with, for super common colours I like the flip tops like black and white or metallics which I keep out of my P3 Wet Palette.
The robe got a wash of Badaab Black but that didn’t go as well as I would like so future washes were custom made by me out of old Black GW Wash. I did two, one thinned and one really thinned. I also built up the highlights to Astronomicon Grey, but then I went even higher mixing in some white. I also painted in lowlights. This was partly to get rid of unwanted shine, but mainly as it looked good. I got the aforementioned thin brush and painted black lines into folds. I also painted on more folds than were sculpted using various greys. This is a technique I use on skin too, such as the striations.
After I was satisfied with the robe I touched up the black and waited until the Bezerker was ready to do green. I wanted a different green, working towards an old pot of GW Jade Green, possibly going even brighter. I started off with Orkhide Shade, leaving some black showing on all three models. Then I did a mix of Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Model Colour Sick Green. Finally pure Sick Green was applied then a custom wash made from an old GW Ork Flesh Wash mixed with a tad of Shadow Black Ink.
Then I deemed them good enough for tonight and tomorrow I will finish them mostly and try harder to find a job. I might go out tomorrow night, so I don’t think I’ll put in as many hours painting, but I’m in the home stretch for all three models, so it will be time to work on three different Chaos Space Marines.
And a Chaos Sorcerer are what I’ve been working on lately. I got up early and started painting around 9:30 AM. It is almost like I have a job, alas unlike some people I’m not a mercenary painter, I’m spending all this time on these three seemingly random figures because I have it. Soon like this afternoon, I’ll add three more models to my paint queue. These are the last three rank and file models I need to finish for my Astronomi-con Vancouver army.
The Bezerker and the dark purple Bloodletter are test figures for the paint scheme I plan to do two of my HQ choices. The highlights are very subtle on the Bloodletter, it was two layers of Liche Purple leaving some black showing, then a custom purple and black wash, not the current GW ones. Then the first true highlight of Foundry Royal Purple Shade. I’m also using my Liche Purple to Royal Purple Triad progression on the flames on the bezerker.
After all the work I did on the red armour, the rest of the model doesn’t need to be fancy, after all it is just a test model, I don’t even need it finished, I just need to get the red, black, purple, and skull scheme I came up with down. The brass and other metallics are pretty easy and the tubing will be dark green.
For the daemon I really need to do a good job on the flesh, see if my technique of really thinned down subtle highlights is feasible. I plan to use another thin purple wash at some point. I also plan to try something different with his horns and claws. His big honkin’ sword will be a cool green, likely based around Jade Green.
The Chaos Sorcerer I’ve had since 1994 or so. I bought it as an ally for my Orks and Goblins army. My entire chaos miniature collection, which is now three armies strong, started as allies to my Orks in Fantasy and 40K. I really like painting grey, I find it easy. I used Adeptus Battle Grey as the base coat, leaving some black showing. Then I did a wash of Badaab Black which left the shadows shiny. This will not do I did some more greys, most recently damn, I’m not at home, some medium GW Grey, I used all in-print paints for a change. I plan to do another highlight of that colour. I also made my own thinned black wash which yielded me better results IMHO.
Painting fabric is way easier than painting power armour or flesh. You can see why Skaven are so popular. I even have a crazy plan to use thinned glazes to add a shimmer to the grey robe. I may not do this, as it looks pretty good as is. I used a size one brush and painted with the folds, I also added even more stirations where I thought the fabric would fold further. The armour will be kinda a mystical jade green, maybe the same as the Bloodletter’s sword. The fur I’m tempted to try and do like tiger or leopard print, but I might just do brown. His blade will get a ghostly blue power weapon look. I do a good job of painting blue power weapons, his blade is probably magical anyway.
I also learned I have to prepare for the Battle Royal as detailed on page 406 of the big red book. I don’t really think I can make any clever changes to my Daemon army. Getting the sorcerer done who will serve as a Herald of Tzeentch, who I dubbed BibbltyBobbltyBoo, is the only square based model I’ll be painting for a while. My Nurgle Daemon army is supposed to be tough, but the fact I’m towards the bottom might see less badness coming my way early on. The Beasts of Nurgle will get a lot of opportunity to prove their worth.
While making the magnetic movement tray for a unit of old Night Goblin archers that I thought was 55 strong, 5 rows of 11. I discovered that it was only 50 strong, well 49 including the hero. It was late at night and I had been cutting 20mm squares of magnetic material into the wee hours, so I decided rather than just borrow one goblin from another unit for the game I was planning to play on Sunday, I’d dig out some new plastic Night Goblin archers I got off eBay and paint them up.
I’m a slow painter, so painting five models, even rank and file Night Goblins in basically one day, which was the task ahead of me, was going to take effort. I would not be able to go at a leisurely pace, nor would I have lots of time for layered washes or trying out new stuff. I began cleaning the models and though I learned later I didn’t too a perfect job, I had them cleaned and on magnetic bases by 1:38 AM.
Despite staying up late the night before I couldn’t sleep and got out of bed at quarter to six. No I didn’t start painting then, but I did update this blog and probably give them there first coat of Chaos Black Spray primer. I had to take care of my daily job search as well as buy groceries, so about 10 AM I had to get serious about painting these models.
I did two blasts of GW Black spray paint, which unlike all my recent Plaguebearers covered pretty good. I did need to put on some more black here and there. After I had a good black it was time to highlight it. I used my top secret black highlighting recipe of Foundry Black Triad number 34. After quickly putting on B & C from the triad I did a wash of Badab Black. Then I did a slight re-highlight of 34C.
That’s it. Bam!On to the purple.
For the purple I used my new dark purple recipe which consists of Liche Purple highlighted with the entire Foundry Royal Purple Triad, number 19 for the numerically superior. That was it, even the flames were free-handed in one go. No washes in this purple recipe. I did take my second break during this phase.
The next phase was the most stressful, painting a face inside the hoods which I’d already highlighted. This was a bit unnerving, but I never had to redo any purple or black highlights. The only time I touched up one dot of purple, was doing one eyeball later on.
I didn’t use the exact green recipe I used on the others. I probably went further than I needed to, but Goblins have characterful faces and getting the green to pop is the key to painting them. I used Vallejo Sick Green, Game Colour 29 as my base. Then I used a less than great pot of GW Goblin Green. Things were looking OK, but I decided to paint GW Thraka Green wash into the darker recesses of the face and pretty much all over the hands and forearms.
I then had to build back up my highlights so I used Vallejo Game Colour Goblin Green. This is only slightly lighter than GW’s Goblin Green if any different at all. Although this was sound blending and colour progression, it wasn’t a big difference maker and was probably a poor choice given my goal of speed. Then I got serious about highlighting the skin, I used a medium aged octagon pot of GW’s Striking Scorpion Green. Finally highlights were with a round pot, that is starting to really show it’s age of, Bilious Green. That pot was one of the first ten or if not ten, twenty I ever bought. It came in I think the Monster Paint Set.
I think I took a break during the greens, I know I took a WIP photo. The model was basically done, the big three of tunic, trim, and flesh were finished. So I decided to ‘stick it to the man’ and not highlight the brown. I quickly put brown over the leather straps, quiver, and arrows and practically ran down the hall to photograph them thinking I was done and it was time for dinner.
I think it was about 5pm. As I was uploading the photos to my computer from my iPhone I remember, “Oi I didn’t paint the eyes!”. Turns out I didn’t paint the mouths either. These are important elements especially for Night Goblins.
This can be a tricky phase as you can ruin or at least damage careful highlights. I dotted the eyes white, then Sunburst Yellow, another epically old pot, but not as old as the one beside it which will remain nameless (Badmoon Yellow from the Ork VS Eldar paint set). That was it for the eyes.
The mouths I did a bit differently than usual. I got out the paint colour I’m making famous, Reaper Master Series Clotted Red and painted the entire interior of the mouth with it. I then got out Vallejo Beige and made sure it was subtle and painted the teeth. The teeth on these models are like a carved pumpkin they go back as little triangles way into the back of the mouth. This is not the norm for GW teeth and I wonder why it was done this way, probably something to do with lasers.
Anyway I think I took a WIP photo and despite being tired and hungry I did one more trick on the mouths. I took a drop of water and some plasma red ink, mixed up a thin wash and filled the mouths with it. I then leaned the models on their backs so it could colour the teeth and dry. You have to wash that your wash doesn’t overflow. If it does, quickly soak it up with a brush.
After laying on the couch listening to some blues, it was time to re-highlight the teeth. It was necessary to touch up a lip here and there during the whole mouth painting process. Highlights were done with Vallejo Beige and boring old Skull White.
Then I took a nap. That’s right no dinner for me I was beat.
Much later I dragged my ass out of bed, photographed the models as best I could, typed up this here blog entry/tutorial and then gave the models a coal of Purity Seal.
Tomorrow I will base 54 Night Goblins and their magnetic movement tray, or die in the attempt. Well maybe things aren’t that dire, it is just a game. Damn mandatory mercenaries week in the Mighty Empires Campaign.
Good morning sports fans. I was up until quite late last night cutting little squares of magnetized material so that I could show off a completely built but not completely painted magnetized movement tray for a Horde of 54 Night Goblin Archers. One of my discoveries late last night was I only had 50 Night Goblins in the unit, well 49 and a hero so I cleaned and prepared five more archers which I’ll paint this afternoon.
I’m up obscenely early bringing you the freshest miniature painting news from my painting table.
Making a magnetized movement tray isn’t any harder than making a non-magnetized one, but it does take time. The most time consuming part especially for a Horde of 54 Night Goblins is cutting the small squares of magnetized material and affixing it to the bottom of each miniatures base. You could use regimental bases to speed up the process, but I did 55 individual bases. The hero was of course magnetized too.
The first thing you need to do is determine how large of a movement tray you need to make. In GW land the most common base sizes are 20mm square and 25mm square, so the interior size is likely some multiple of those two numbers. I’ve found they are sometimes a bit bigger when they have a miniature on them so it is good to leave a few millimetres wiggle room. The movement tray was to be 11 goblins wide and 5 goblins deep. I grabbed the piece of balsa wood I used for the Plaguebearers base and it was just a little too small.
You need to allow 3-4 mm depending on the material used for the edges. I make my bases with three edges just like the ones GW sells. Maybe four edges is better, I don’t know I’ve only made a few movement trays in my time. I play mostly round base games where you deploy in dispersed formation not ranked up.
After cutting out the bottom of the tray it is important to check your measurements two or three times. I used a metal straight edge and an exacto knife to cut the balsa wood. Go slow and apply moderate pressure, eventually you may need to apply more pressure but by scoring it once or twice at low pressure you have a good groove to follow.
With the bottom ready it was time for the front and the sides. I measured and cut the front first. Then I use the front in measuring the sides. I measure and cut one side then I make a twin. When all three edge pieces are ready it is time to glue them to the bottom of the movement tray. I used balsa wood for the sides as well, a little deeper piece than before about 3-4mm wide and about 5-6 high. I wanted a deeper tray to accommodate the magnetic material.
Now you have to measure the inside space of your tray. You only really need to measure the width. Once you have your measurement transfer that measurement to the magnetic sheet. I used a silver sharpie to mark the black magnetic material. I again used a metal straight edge to cut the material. I used a depth of 10cm for the other measurement, it overhung the wooden bottom by a couple millimetres but I figured it was worth it.
I used simple wood glue (Weldbond brand if it matters) to glue the magnetic material to the bottom of the tray. Make sure you get the poles correct. The other magnetic sheet I used had adhesive already on one side so it can only be applied one way so make sure the bottom of your tray isn’t repelling. I then put something that weighed a kilo or two on the tray bottom and let it dry.
I was working on a number of different little projects at the same time, including how I was actually going to finish the bases of the model. I have Autumnal materials which look alright but some of them I’m unfamiliar with. Peabody wrote a tutorial on how he does his bases and I’ll be doing something similar. I actually have the Matte Medium and plenty of pigment and ink, but I think I’ll just use white glue, that is how the test model was done. I don’t want to make a mess of the entire unit.
Now after some drying time, which you really don’t have to wait for if you’re a keener, it is time to affix the magnetic material to the bases of the miniatures. This is made really easy by the fact that I bought two types of magnetic sheets. I bought both types at Urban Source on Main Street in Vancouver, but you could order the stuff off the internet I’m sure. I carefully measure 20mm and then using the metal edge and the exacto knife cut out a long thin strip. I actually needed four of them. I could fit 15 bases on one strip.
It is actually pretty tough making a long perfectly straight cut with an exacto knife so in hindsight I might have been better off marking it with a pen and using scissors.
Once I had the strips I just grabbed a mini, put it on the white side, traced the edge and cut it with the exacto. Eventually I switched to cutting the strips with scissors. Once you have your little square just peel off the backing and put it on the bottom of the miniature. It is better to have a little bit too much magnetic material than too little. It cuts easy so once you have it on the bottom of the base you can use your exacto knife to trim it off, just like cleaning flash from a miniature.
Now since I’d let my glue dry on the movement tray, I could rank up my models as I magnetized them. I did do the upside down test, all three plastic Night Goblins stayed affixed to the tray, even using less powerful magnets. I never tried this test with my metal models in the unit nor did I tip the whole unit upside down. The models stay put quite well and make it so it is easy to move the tray and the unit around. Tipping your whole unit upside down and shaking it is just dumb.
Once I discovered I was a few goblins short of my desired unit size I got out some more Night Goblin archers that I got off eBay. I cleaned them and magnetized their bases too. Then I ranked them up, took a picture and went to bed.
See that wasn’t so hard, you can base the models however you want and use a little bit of basing material along the edge of the movement tray to help it blend in some more. The models, even the metal ones, stay in place when you tip, tilt, and jostle the tray. None of them tip over or fall out. Yet you can pluck them out without any trouble as well.
Today I’ll be painting five more archers as I’d rather have one unit completely finished than borrow an archer from my other unit for the game on Sunday. I’ll also be test basing another archer and my fanatics until I’m satisfied it looks as good as I can get it in the time allowed. I dug out yet more basing material, including some fancy leaves I got off of Antenociti’s Workshop, they almost seem too nice to use on 15 year old, not terribly well painted, plastic goblins. I’ve been stockpiling stuff for years and it is time see it on the table, so some of these leaves will find their way onto goblin bases, maybe just the front row, I painted them nicer too.
That is the first test goblin base. It was suggested I wash the ballast, I tried too washes, the ballast like cat litter is absorbent so it came out looking messy. I don’t mind it as is, it is the weird red stuff that I bought so much of that doesn’t look too good to me. It will be used judiciously, perhaps mixed in with some ballast or even some green flock. I believe I still have some of the original green flock I bought over 15 years ago…
Welcome back to the part of the Internet where random purple text and owning a domain called BloodOfKittens is not considered cool, where once again we will try to focus on the miniature painting hobby specifically how to give your minis that extra special base. Hobbyists with Internet access and a credit card are spoiled these days with specialty pre-made resin base manufactures. I’ve tried several and on my recent trip to Strategies Games and Hobbies on Main Street in Vancouver, I picked up some square bases covered in skulls manufactured by Micro Art Studio and Reaper Miniatures. I couldn’t find any cool cavalry bases (or 25mm by 50mm outside of GW land), so I was stuck with making one somehow.
Now I’d read online of the miracle basing product known to the rest of the world as cork tile. Basically they are a form of flooring for homes, I found some excess thin cork at Urban Source, also on Main Street in Vancouver, which was 50 cents a piece. You can use this cork to make bases, or rubble, or even buildings for your miniature wargaming needs.
First you need to cut out a piece of cork about the size of your base. It can be a bit bigger on the front and the sides, but for ranking up not too big. I don’t really plan to rank this model. After you cut the basic shape you just randomly bust off, or pinch off, little bits of cork around the edges until you end up with an irregular shape, that fits basically on top of your plastic GW cavalry base.
Once you have a suitable shape, you get out your white glue, in my case Weldbond brand and you coat the cork with it on one side. You then position the cork on top of the plastic base and clamp it tight. Now you really need to give the glue time to dry, that is why I started with that part of my basing task.
Next I started cleaning up the bits and pieces that make up an old Chaos Sorcerer, an old Steed of Slaneesh with Daemonette rider, and an old Fiend of Slaneesh. I used a file and in some cases an exacto knife. The Steed did not have a tab, but may have had one originally, I got the model in a trade of sorts in about 1996, maybe be a bit after. I filed down the feet so I’d have a nice flat surface to work with. I test fit the legs and put weight on the back to see which position would be most solid. Then I put super glue in the molded holes and glued both legs at once and let it sit. It stands upright as you can see in some of the photos, this should make mounting it to the base easier.
After that I glued the rider together. I twisted the upper torso around quite a bit, not to be dramatic, but because that was how the model fit together tightest. You can do a certain amount of filing and adjusting, but sometimes you just have to go with whatever pose works best. Finally I glued the lower jaw to the head and let the Steed sit on my hobby table in three separate pieces, four if you count the base.
The sorcerer was going to be the easiest, but still might provide a lesson in mounting models to resin bases. That is right I’m using pre-cast skull bases that I bought in a blister. I clipped off almost the entire tab on the sorcerer. When mounting metal models to resin bases it is best to leave a small spike of metal jutting out from the bottom of the model. I didn’t take the best photo at this stage but I was busying working away and all these pictures were just quick snaps with my iPhone. After filing the the tab as level as possible I then test fit it on all five skull bases in the blister. I found the one that seemed to work best with this model and I painted a dab of white paint on the metal spike. Then I again test fit it, now there is a little glob of white paint on the base where the spike should go. You then drill this out with your pin vise.
Then you test fit the model again and assuming all is well glue the bottom of the model and the spike to the base.
Setting aside the sorcerer I turned to perhaps the most problematic of the three models, the circa 1995 Marauder Fiend of Slaneesh. I gave this model a good filing and test fit the various pieces. The main torso is in two pieces and the base I bought for it is solid metal. The first thing I did actually was trace out a 40mm by 40mm square of sheet styrene. I scored it and broke it off like it says to do on the packaging. Then I glued that to the bottom of the Reaper skull base which I’d also cleaned with a file and exacto knife.
If you use super glue like I did you only get one chance to do this. If it is a little off you can just file and cut off the white styrene that sticks out. Even before I opened the blister I’d decided to do this, I thought the model would slide better on the table and it added a little bit more height to the small Fiend of Slaneesh. Turns out the base is partially hollow, I don’t think the sheet styrene was absolutely necessary, but I had it at hand and it does slide nice on my hobby table.
After basing the base I decided to trim off the tabs from the two halves of the Fiend torso. I had already decided it was best to get the torso together before trying to base it. I left a single spike on one leg and filed the rest flat. It actually fit quite well on the base with three legs supporting it upright. I’ve gotten ahead of myself, old multi-part metal models are often notoriously difficult to get a good fit. This model wasn’t bad, I didn’t get out greenstuff, but I did file it a lot before and after I super glued it together.
With the model together and an optimal position on the base determined, it was time again for a dab of white glue and the pin vise. I didn’t drill into the styrene, the base is plenty think enough to accommodate the spike. Again I put super glue on all four paws and the spike and set it down on the base. I held it together for 30 seconds or whatever then got out the arms. I test fitted them and though the pose might not be the best, again I went with the tightest fit. One arm fit better than the other so I did yet more filing. At some point the model came partially unglued from the base, so more super glue to the rescue.
With the arms on the model, it was time for the head. This had lots of surface to glue to, but not the best fit. I may get out the green stuff for this, but I might just go with it. It’ll likely never be an award winning model but I still think I can make it look cool. I dubbed it “Retro Demon” and it will get a suitably disco paint job.
I flipped over the cork base and could still see white glue. White glue, the brands I prefer anyway dries clear, that is how you know it has set. So it was time for lunch and a blog post, not exactly in that order, but I’m getting hungrier as I type. Later tonight I may finish off the cork base and the Steed of Slaneesh which is the most instructive half of this little project, then it is primer and back to brush work for me. Though before that I may build a couple of movement trays and there is also 54 Night Goblins that need to have their bases finished. They’ll get less elaborate bases to be sure. I have a lot of work to do in order to play in the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires campaign.
Apparently one of the tutorials I’ve written has been added to the From the Warp tutorial section which I link to from my Painting Advice page but not in this blog’s sidebar. I’ll have to fix that. While looking for my name in lights so to speak and eating my sandwich, I discovered this tutorial on using cork in basing so you can see where I’m going. I tried test fitting the Steed just now, it’ll work but I’m not sure whether pinning is necessary, I was going to and I think it is for the best…
Today was actually the best day for painting we’ve had in a long time in Vancouver. There is a breeze, my hands don’t sweat, I don’t have to OD on water. Too bad my sleep schedule is so messed up I slept away most of the day. I’m up now and paint is drying as I’m almost done Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly. I’ve finished the eyes which are oranges and yellows. I think I need a bit more yellow but yellow notoriously doesn’t cover well, even over orange and white…
I did the handles of the swords brown even using my Reaper Master Series Terracotta on them. I did the champs tongue purple. I did my new dark purple system of GW’s Liche Purple then the Foundry Royal Purple Triad. For fun I blended on the Wet Palette, which is behaving more today in the milder weather, the inbetween shades. Alas I still haven’t gotten the handle on the wet palette and may have rushed things too much. I did a very thinned down old GW Purple Wash too. Now like a lot of other things it is drying.
I’m painting the glob on Knarly’s sword an old GW Jade Green which I plan to highlight with an old GW Putrid Green.
I painted the nipple ring on Fleshy a P3 Blighted Gold colour which is a great Nurgle colour even if it does suffer from some separation issues, it is still workable.
The bases will be drybrushed with three GW browns: Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic. They already got a fresh coat of Delta Ceramcoat black which is nice and flat and covers well. I reach for it a lot to save my Chaos Black for finer detail work, now.
That’s about it, when everything is reasonably dry I snapped the pics then they are off to the box to get Matte Varnished. I plan to go with Purity Seal even though I hear horror stories about it frosting models every now and then. When I get a job and lessen my debt load I’ll hopefully have used it up and switch to Testors.
I think after all these years I’ve finally gotten good at drybrushing. I come from the old school where we drybrushed with old brushes. This can be really hit and miss which is a way to describe drybrushing itself. Over the years I’ve acquired some makeup style brushes and on my last trip to Deserres I bought the smallest one yet. This is much superior to the old worn out Tamiya brush I was using. It was actually a joy to drybrush up the dirt with my new brush. Maybe I’ll have to try drybrushing something else besides dirt and skulls… Of course you still need to get just the right amount of paint on your brush, this is more important than the kind of brush you use.
In case you didn’t notice the Putrid Green turned out to be a boulder. Shows you how often I use it. So the green glob on Knarly’s sword is GW Jade Green and one of the oldest pots in my collection, GW Bilious Green from the Monster Paint Set I believe. I blended the colours together, oh yeah the midtone was, a not quite as old, GW Striking Scorpion Green. Anyway I mixed various midtones over a very solid two or three coats of Jade Green base. I then put too much old GW Green Glaze on the model, but it worked out fine, I built back up my highlights even better using the wet palette and then I put some pure Bilious Green on and modicum of GW Yellow Glaze and voila slime! I may use some other tricks to keep it nice and slimy.
So which is your favourite one? All three are great sculpts which is probably why Nurgle lesser daemons are the only metal ones left in GW’s catalog. Drabby was the least work, but he has the nice exposed bones. Fleshy I like though his skintone could have had a lot more depth to it, but it is a unique colour. And Knarly I really gave the P3 Wet Palette a bit of a workout blending various mid-shades and I also used four different new GW Washes as well as some of my own custom thinned washes, so basically 15 years worth of Nurgle painting experience went into these models, hopefully they’ll result in a glorious victory on Sunday, now I just need to re-base the Beasts of Nurgle and make a 40 strong movement tray to replace my old puny 16 one.
The Drabby photo is a bit soft, I took four or five and this was the best one I got with my iPhone today. Oh well you get the idea.