I finally got my hands on the new Orc and Goblin army book for Warhammer Fantasy battle. All the cool Orc and Goblin players already had it and have been adapting their armies to the newest rules. What I lack in coolness I make up for in stubbornness and weirdness. Here is the 2000 point all Goblin army I’m going to be running some day. I actually have almost every single goblin painted, I just need to do some basing and some shields.
I plan on running the new mega spider with a Shaman on top so I use up almost all of my Lord allowance. The core of my army remains however three big blogs of infantry, three war machines, and a hero to lead each mob. When I totalled it all up, using most of my allotment for magic items, I was just 80 or 90 points short of 2000, enter the Squig Hoppers. I might eventually go higher points and run a second Lord on a Gigantic Spider or even just a Big Boss and a block of spider riders to continue the spider theme. Not sure what I’ll do with all my ork models, maybe I’ll sell them or use some of them for 40K…
Here is a picture of my ‘bigger’ unit of Night Goblins. It is the only unit completely finished, complete with Shaman leader Icky Bob.
Goblin Great Shaman, riding Arachnarok Spider, with Catchweb Shrine and Opal Amulet 490 points
Night Goblin Shaman with extra level, Ironcurse Icon, and Dispell Scroll 115 points
Goblin Big Boss, Battle Standard Bearer, Mork’s War Banner, Light Armour and Shield 164 points
Night Goblin Big Boss, Light Armor and Short Bow, Enchanted Shield, and Obsidian Loadstone 84 points
54 Night Goblins with Short Bows, full command, three fanatics 267 points
29 Night Goblins with Short Bows, full command, three fanatics, and nets 237 points
65 Goblins with spears, shields, and light armor, full command and three skulkers 320 points
6 Night Goblin Squig Hoppers 72 points
2 Doom Divers 160 points
1 Stone Thrower 85 points
My theoryhammer, besides just finding a use for all the old plastic goblins I own and have almost gotten painted over the years, is, the goblins do the fighting. So much so I don’t even have a single ork in my army, even though the ten point bully might be worth it. I went with a hero in each squad as the heroes and the upgrades arguably will do more damage than the actual goblins.
Having played once and a while, generally every second edition of the game, I know goblins aren’t very good, but lots of them can look intimidating. The plan with the massive units is to not take panic checks. Every hero has defensive magic items, that boost their squad, I even opted for the most expensive magic banner. I also hope to dominate the magic phase and maybe even the shooting. The war machines can hurt most anything and the big spider should be able to handle itself. My main plan is to advance so I can’t run away in the first turn, release the squigs and just wait. Bombard the enemy with stones and spells and eventually arrows. After they get through all that I release the fanatics and hope to halt the charges. But if all else fails hopefully 60 plus goblins in a horde is a tough nut to crack. The Night Goblin units run away often, but hopefully not before they release their fanatics and get off a volley or two of arrows.
Although I seem to be known as a Nurgle guy, my first army was Orks in Warhammer 40,000 during the legendary Rogue Trader era. Why? Because no one played orks in our group and they forced me to. I never won a single game during the Rogue Trader era. Things didn’t get that much better in 2nd Edition due to infiltrating Assassins with virus grenades or just the virus outbreak strategy card. There was a serious lack of play testing involved back then.
My friends made me assemble more models just so they could kill more models. That’s why my fantasy army sat undone but assembled for years. Me, I generally only assemble models I plan to paint. So pretty much any assembled but un-primed models in my household were put together at the urging and with the aid of Arden or Kathy or perhaps Paul… I don’t know what the obsession with bigger games is. I’m content to play 1500 points, in fact smaller games require you to make harder decisions when choosing your army list.
But that is not what this post is about. I’ve slowly been working through my massive collection of single pose plastic goblins, well massive for me. However I have almost as many single pose Goffs and Gretchin. In fact it is these models and a lot of losses to Eldar and Space Marines that moved me towards Nurgle. Now my Nurgle miniature collection is almost painted out and I’m doing other Chaos Powers, Orks and Goblins are still on my long term “ta do list”. I regular stop in at the Waaagh forums. I’ve also starting doing test figures and what better models to test paints on then, 2nd Edition Gretchin.
The black basecoated one was done up for some contest on the Waaagh that I didn’t have time for. The first grey one, was a test of Krylon Primer that went badly marring the face and the entire paint job. The third Gretchin and the 2nd grey one, the one without the squig on the base, was also primed with Krylon Grey primer. I discovered that Krylon Grey primer is the exact same shade of grey as Adeptus Battle Grey, or at least so close as to not matter. This may be useful information to Imperial Guard players and will prompt me to paint another test Servant of Decay.
My original test figure for my Servants of Decay army was painted over a black base coat and used Foundry English Uniform Brown triad for the main uniform color. Brown is a good army color and a good Nurgle color. However the Nefarious fire are black with purple flames so purple and flames was always going to fit into my Servants of Decay scheme too, but I didn’t want black uniforms. I was thinking grey uniforms… Now I think a plastic Goliath ganger will be painted up from a Krylon grey base coat and it will have grey clothing rather than brown…
However the point of this post is to show off the three gretchin I’ve been chipping away at, each with it’s own skin color. The black gretchin got the traditional Ork Flesh up to Bilious Green layer technique that has been used on greenskins since the Rogue Trader era. I only used a single wash on this model and it was the new Thrakka Green.
The poorly primed gretchin got a Gretchin Green basecoat, a color I never use in painting ork flesh, followed by a Camo Green highlight. Then the model was given two washes of Thrakka Green. Next it received another Camo Green highlight as the bad priming job obscures a lot of detail so it is better to paint highlights than rely on gravity to add lowlights for this model. Finally this model got Rotting Flesh and Vallejo Model Color Green Grey highlights.
The third Gretchin is an experiment into the wash your way to victory or at least wash your way to a nice fleshtone. John Blanche used brown paint and green wash to do some orks and that look has caught on some. TastyTaste seems to think using Devlan Mud is evil, but have you ever seen a model painted by TastyTaste? I haven’t. I’m pretty sure he’s not overly burdened by Golden Demons if you know what I mean.
People on the Waaagh forums have gotten good results using the new GW washes and various colors you wouldn’t associate with painting green skin. I took a stab at it and started with Dheneb Stone for my basecoat over the grey. This didn’t cover so well or look quite right so I immediately followed that with a quick highlight of Vallejo Model Color Beige. Then I got more on script and did a fairly heavy wash of Devlan Mud and after drying time, two fairly heavy washes of Thrakka Green.
I’m not sure how much time this really saves when you factor in drying time, but if you’re painting 40 Gretchin it probably does save some time. It is also a bit messy so doing the skin first then fixing the areas that are just primer is easier than doing the skin later and fixing more painted portions of the model.
It looked OK after three washes and just a single highlight, but I was highlighting the other models so I gave it a Green Grey highlight which fixed things some. Maybe the highlights are less realistic, but they look better especially at arms length. One thing about this Dheneb Stone and Beige technique is it leaves the eyeballs and teeth looking decent, where as the dark green traditional method you definitely have to work on the teeth and eyes more to get them to look right. I’m still not sold on painting over grey, tomorrow I will try out red, metallic, and some other common colors.
Last night or this morning I was lying in bed thinking of changes I could make to my Warhammer armies to try to actually win a game of Warhammer Fantasy Battle in 8th Edition. There isn’t much I can do with an all Nurgle Daemon army at 1500 points. I can add or subtract Plaguebearers, Nurglings, and Beasts of Nurgle and none of them have done much on the table top. The Herald of Tzeentch might keep a few more of my models from dying in the magic phase but in general I have to play with the models I have painted.
After finishing the sorcerer I picked up yet more hobby supplies and looked for work. A lot of jobs seem to be good fits for me this week and I talked to a CEO of a startup so maybe my third lengthy period of unemployment post-MBA will finally come to an end. I really don’t care what I do, all experience will obviously help me, and I need money as I have too much debt. But that’s not what my few readers care about.
I just finished writing a new army list at 1500 points, as that is the magic number at Strategies. Bigger games obviously are possible as I have a lot of models painted and quite a few unpainted unlike the Daemon army which is mostly painted except for a few odds and sods OOP models. My army list is goblin heavy and I’ve been trying to embrace that. I even tried to go all goblins, but in the end I couldn’t say no to a 5 point bully and the Big Waaagh spell list. So my 1500 point army list actually has 2 orks in it. My 2000 point army list will have more orks and to save on painting but also so I can have a magic banner (Mork’s Spirit Totem) I’m breaking my vow of no Big ‘Uns. I’m still unlikely to have Black Orks, though some Savage Orks might be fun, especially if new plastic models are in the pipe line as rumored.
Picking my daemon list is easy, my Ork and Goblin list takes a lot more time. I have a lot more options, even with only a few units actually painted. I painted so many goblins (with a tiny bit of help) that I can add or remove dozens of models from units, which doesn’t do that much, but it means I pick my CORE last. I pick my warmachines first as I want them to be central to my army. They shoot over the goblins, which in turn shoot and cast spells at the enemy until they get annoyed and charge or I get to cast one of the movement spells and opt for a surprise charge. The Fanatics of course get in the way of the enemy.
Having dealt with Leadership 4 Night Goblin mercenaries I’ve been thinking of ways to increase my leadership. I still don’t want an Ork general, but I can switch to a Goblin Warboss for one more leadership over the Night Goblin Warboss I added last time I revised the army list. I also decided to put him in with the unit of spearmen and to move my Goblin Battle Standard Bearer to the big unit of archers as that will keep them from running away better than the sorcerer who I had leading the unit. My yet to arrive new Night Goblin Boss figure will still go with the blue archers, but he’ll be demoted to Big Boss and I doubt I’ll bulk that unit up anymore. This all means that I need to paint two hero goblins, which will be a pleasure, something like seven warmachine crew and then base up everything that doesn’t have it’s base finished, which is every model not in this picture.
So without further ado here is the army list:
SPECIAL: Rock Lobber with Bully 75pts
RARE: 2 Doom Divers 160pts
LORD: Goblin Warboss with light armor, shield, Talisman of Preservation, and Martog’s Best Basha 131pts
LORD: Night Goblin Great Shaman with Staff of Sneaky Stealing, Amulet of Protectyness, and Magic Mushrooms 235pts
HERO: Goblin Big Boss Battle Standard Bearer with light armor and the Spider Banner 112pts
HERO: Night Goblin Big Boss with light armor, shield, Mad Cap Mushrooms, and Ulag’s Akrit Axe 79pts
HERO: Ork Shaman, Level 2 Wizard with the Horn of Urgok 140pts
CORE: Blue Archers, 24 Night Goblins with Bows, Full Command, 3 Fanatics, and Nets 202pts
CORE: Purple Archers, 28 Night Goblins with Bows, Full Command, and 2 Fanatics 154pts
CORE: Spearmen, 44 Goblins with Spears, Shields, and Light Armour plus Full Command 240pts
After working out all my heroes which I really need to keep the goblins from running away and to try not to get raped in the magic phase, I priced out all the blue archers, this is my smallest unit, but with max Fanatics and Nets and a Big Boss geared offensively they are both my most expendable unit and the one I’d like to send out first from my lines. I’d just as soon not get into H2H with the other units as their main goal is to keep their heroes alive.
I also moved the Mad Cap Mushrooms to the Big Boss, this unit is almost completely painted and should be easier to base and make the movement tray for as it is half the size of the other archer unit.
For the purple archers I wanted to make them a Horde so that meant three rows of at least ten. They also have two heroes the Battle Standard Bearer for his Leadership 7 and the Night Goblin Shaman who is the most expensive model in my army. Hopefully even at Level 3 he can do a good job at dispelling and combined with his Sneaky Staff he should. The Magic Mushrooms are just for fun and so that I can avoid an unlucky failed casting. The Ork Shaman is my offensive magical force. He should have better spells and at 2000 points he’ll be a lot more powerful due to the unit of Big ‘Uns, Waaagh Paint, and Mork’s Spirit Totem. I really think both my armies will start to come into their own at 2000 points…
The last unit I priced out was the biggest. Previously I’d stubbornly insisted on fielding 65 Goblins with spears as that is how they are ranked up in my miniature case, but honestly once you get past four rows of ten, the rest are mainly human shields and based on how my games have gone lots of my models get killed before they get to fight anything. I think this army will do most of it’s damage in the shooting and magic phase with my heroes occasionally having a good round of H2H. The rank and file mainly will die in droves. In order to maximize my Fanatics as much as possible the final unit ended up being 44 strong with full command. This will necessitate me making three more movement trays to play this army at 1500 points but that’s alright, they aren’t as much work as painting and basing the actual models. Eventually maybe I’ll have a whole collection of custom movement trays.
I haven’t priced it out, but I know what I want to add at 2000 points. Waaagh Paint and Mork’s Spirit Totem and a unit of Big ‘Uns on foot with Choppas and Shields will eat up most of the points, but I’m tempted to buy another small Night Goblin Shaman just to get certain other magic items, like say a Dispell Scroll but honestly with all the anti-magic I will have thanks to other magic items I don’t really need it. Usually when someone really wants to cast a spell they risk the miscast to get Irresistible Force. I’ll also probably bulk up the purple goblin units a bit as I have the models painted, unlike the Orks on foot which I only have a handful painted.
I wanted to do a Horde of Orks but honestly I haven’t benefited much from the new Horde rule. I think I’ve fielded the two largest units in the Mighty Empires Campaign and I’ve yet to win. I think higher initiative is still more important than just masses of expendable bodies. Leadership is even more important than Initiative which is why I fitted in the Horn of Urgok into this army list. That will increase my Leadership army wide with a one in six chance of the Shaman carrying it taking a wound. That’ll probably be the first thing I try to cast every Magic Phase, at least while the Shaman has two wounds.