Posts Tagged ‘paint’

Yesterday I started on three Gretchins, one with a black base coat and a traditional dark to light green skin highlighting technique, the other two with grey base coats and more experimental flesh painting.  I couldn’t leave well enough alone so late last night I did another wash, this time of Gryphonne Sepia on just the two grey primered models.

Finished Green Skin

Finished Green Skin

The first color I wanted to test painting over grey, was of course white.  The easiest way I know to get a good white over a black base coat is to use Astronomican Grey then paint white over that.  So that is what I did to the black primered gretchin.  Actually the first thing I did was fix up the base coats, the black model required a lot less touchups than the wash heavy models.  The final thing I did to this models trousers was to paint a tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia into the recesses and creases.  I may do another quick white highlight.

White pants Yellow boot

White pants Yellow boot

The better primed grey Gretchin, the one without the squig, also got white trousers.  I just went straight Skull White over the primer.  It didn’t work too well.  I pressed on and mixed up a thinned down wash made from Codex Grey, this was applied liberally to the pants.  This had to dry for a bit, so it was time to type and wait.  After that I’ll definitely be painting another layer of white on the pants.

The next hardest color to paint over black is yellow.  This has gotten easier due to Iyanden Dark Sun.  I used that right over the black.  Over the grey I opted for Golden Yellow.  This is an older pot that Owen gave me.  It is a good darker richer yellow, but it is best to use it over another color even orange…  However it went right over the grey OK…  We’ll see how it looks after a wash and some highlights.

Next for the black primered model was a coat of Golden Yellow, for the grey primered model I went with a thinned down orange wash made from Windsor & Newton Orange Ink.  Next for the black primered model was Gryphonne Sepia wash on the yellow bootie.  I did a highlight of Sunburst Yellow on the other bootie, this is an even older GW paint pot.  Finally I got out my Badmoon Yellow paint pot and painted that on both booties.  Neither is winning any prizes, I still think for painting yellow it is best to start from an orange or brown basecoat.

Painting orange and yellow

Painting orange and yellow

The next color I wanted to try was Orange it also benefits from a Foundation color, but can still be a tricky color to get right, not as tricky as yellow though…  I think the wooden part of the autogun will be orange on both models.  You can see how the undercoat makes a difference on how a color looks when just using a single coat.

The next color I used after taking the photo was Blood Angel Orange, that’s right Orange! Paul Taylor traded me this pot for some color I had doubles of back in the 90s.  It is pretty thin and actually darker than Macharius Solar Orange so maybe it should have gone on before, but it doesn’t have near the amount of pigment or covering properties.  After that was dry it was time for Fiery Orange which is a really useful color for Ork players as is Macharius Solar Orange as you can use it to make nice rust washes…

Beginning Metals

Beginning Metals

I actually bought a new bright orange, called Fire Orange from Reaper Master Series line of paints so I used that for edge highlights next.  I still was feeling like it could be better so I used Golden Yellow which is a pretty dark yellow.  That’s enough sometimes I don’t like to use Yellow to highlight Orange or Red but sometimes I do it…  Next up is metallics where a black basecoat has advantage over white but not necessarily grey…

I put Boltgun metal straight from the pot on various parts of the three Gretchin then took a photo.  One of my new gritty metallic recipes is to cover boltgun metal with two new GW washes first black then mud.  After they have dried I paint highlights on with Chainmail or Silver.  For these models having already painted parts of the models orange, white, and yellow I have to be even more careful with the washes.  I don’t come from the new school where you just slather the mini in magic wash…

I think that is about all that is going to get done this evening.  I’ll try to work on them more tomorrow.  Writing the tutorials and comparing the color combos makes things go slower.  After a few more colors bone, brown, black, and grey plus possibly blue I’ll be mostly done and just blitzkrieg through.

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Three painted Plaguebearers

Three painted Plaguebearers

Today was actually the best day for painting we’ve had in a long time in Vancouver.  There is a breeze, my hands don’t sweat, I don’t have to OD on water.  Too bad my sleep schedule is so messed up I slept away most of the day.  I’m up now and paint is drying as I’m almost done Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly.  I’ve finished the eyes which are oranges and yellows.  I think I need a bit more yellow but yellow notoriously doesn’t cover well, even over orange and white…

I did the handles of the swords brown even using my Reaper Master Series Terracotta on them.  I did the champs tongue purple.  I did my new dark purple system of GW’s Liche Purple then the Foundry Royal Purple Triad.  For fun I blended on the Wet Palette, which is behaving more today in the milder weather, the inbetween shades.  Alas I still haven’t gotten the handle on the wet palette and may have rushed things too much.  I did a very thinned down old GW Purple Wash too.  Now like a lot of other things it is drying.

My Putrid Green Paint Pot

My Putrid Green Paint Pot

I’m painting the glob on Knarly’s sword an old GW Jade Green which I plan to highlight with an old GW Putrid Green.

I painted the nipple ring on Fleshy a P3 Blighted Gold colour which is a great Nurgle colour even if it does suffer from some separation issues, it is still workable.

The bases will be drybrushed with three GW browns: Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic.  They already got a fresh coat of Delta Ceramcoat black which is nice and flat and covers well.  I reach for it a lot to save my Chaos Black for finer detail work, now.

That’s about it, when everything is reasonably dry I snapped the pics then they are off to the box to get Matte Varnished.  I plan to go with Purity Seal even though I hear horror stories about it frosting models every now and then.  When I get a job and lessen my debt load I’ll hopefully have used it up and switch to Testors.

I think after all these years I’ve finally gotten good at drybrushing.  I come from the old school where we drybrushed with old brushes.  This can be really hit and miss which is a way to describe drybrushing itself.  Over the years I’ve acquired some makeup style brushes and on my last trip to Deserres I bought the smallest one yet.  This is much superior to the old worn out Tamiya brush I was using.  It was actually a joy to drybrush up the dirt with my new brush.  Maybe I’ll have to try drybrushing something else besides dirt and skulls…  Of course you still need to get just the right amount of paint on your brush, this is more important than the kind of brush you use.

In case you didn’t notice the Putrid Green turned out to be a boulder.  Shows you how often I use it.  So the green glob on Knarly’s sword is GW Jade Green and one of the oldest pots in my collection, GW Bilious Green from the Monster Paint Set I believe.  I blended the colours together, oh yeah the midtone was, a not quite as old, GW Striking Scorpion Green.  Anyway I mixed various midtones over a very solid two or three coats of Jade Green base.  I then put too much old GW Green Glaze on the model, but it worked out fine, I built back up my highlights even better using the wet palette and then I put some pure Bilious Green on and modicum of GW Yellow Glaze and voila slime! I may use some other tricks to keep it nice and slimy.

So which is your favourite one?  All three are great sculpts which is probably why Nurgle lesser daemons are the only metal ones left in GW’s catalog.  Drabby was the least work, but he has the nice exposed bones.  Fleshy I like though his skintone could have had a lot more depth to it, but it is a unique colour.  And Knarly I really gave the P3 Wet Palette a bit of a workout blending various mid-shades and I also used four different new GW Washes as well as some of my own custom thinned washes, so basically 15 years worth of Nurgle painting experience went into these models, hopefully they’ll result in a glorious victory on Sunday, now I just need to re-base the Beasts of Nurgle and make a 40 strong movement tray to replace my old puny 16 one.

Drabby the Plaguebearer

Fleshy the Plaguebearer

Knarly the Plaguebearer

The Drabby photo is a bit soft, I took four or five and this was the best one I got with my iPhone today.  Oh well you get the idea.

Make Mine Nurgle

So since my sleep schedule is totally screwed up due to loud neighbours and being unemployed, I put quite a lot of work into these Nurgle daemons today, probably should have gone to the gym or something.  Tomorrow I will go to the gym and of course look for a job.  I also will likely finish these three plaguebearers tomorrow which when varnished will give me 40 painted, enough for my full rank bonus horde for the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires Campaign at Strategies starting Sunday.

Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin

Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin

The first thing I did after taking water out of my wet palette was finish the Knarloc Green Plaguebearer and his little Nurgling buddy.  I used GW’s Knarloc Green, and three Vallejo greens: Sick, Goblin, and Green Grey.  I blended the paint on the wet palette and highlighted.  I had a problem with Sick being too much of a step but with some blending and fighting the constant tendency of the model to go ‘minty’ I eventually put enough little dibs and dabs so that he looked like someone whom extra time had been taken painting.  I also used a little tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia wash at the very end to blend it to dark again.

With that complete I decided to do the bones next.  I decided on the bones as if some red gets on the bones it is OK, but if some bone gets on the guts you have to repaint it.  There are a couple of exposed bones on one plaguebearer and of course the one big horn on each model.  I change it up now and again, but basically I paint bones Snakebite Leather.  Bleached Bone or Vallejo Beige doesn’t cover black that great unless you gob it on, and you don’t want to do that.  So after painting the bones and skulls and horns Snakebite Leather I reached for the Vallejo Beige and put some of that on the wet palette.  I also got some GW Scorched Brown out too.  I used the dark brown to darken and to add little stripes or striations to the horns.  Then I put a very thin amount of beige on the horns.

Painting bone colour

Painting bone colour

Next I got out my newly discovered Reaper Master Series Clotted Red.  This was added to the wet palette.  I’d started a new piece of parchment and with considerably less water in the container, basically just a damp sponge.  I had all types of problems in Vancouver’s heat with the parchment drying out.  I still have a long way to go until I get the wet palette just right.  Anyway I put a fairly think layer of Clotted Red on all the things I wanted red.  Then I mixed up a bone wash, this is a fairly standard recipe for me of water and old GW Rust Brown Ink.  Some times I add a dab of red ink into the mix.  I paint this pretty much all over the bone color, though obviously you can leave some of the bone unwashed.

When that was all dry I painted more Vallejo Beige onto the bones in something of a drybrush but not totally, kinda half and half.  I did drybrush white onto the bones, but I also painted white on the tips and in thin lines.  I don’t like to drybrush but one thing that looks good and if you’re careful, drybrushing bones, horns, and skulls yields nice results.  Sometimes I don’t use white on my bones at all, this time since I’d invested so much time in the models I did.

Beginning Guts and Gore

Beginning Guts and Gore

Next I got out my new pot of GW Blood Red and painted it on the ‘guts’ as a highlight.  I’d used Beige and White to get reasonable exposed bones going.  Then I mixed up another custom wash, this one is two drops of water, two brushes of old GW Shadow Black Ink and two brushes worth of old GW Plasma Red Ink.  These like the Rust Brown Ink are in round pots with Citadel logos and black lids.

This takes a bit to dry so I likely took a break or touched up things.  Eventually I touched up some of the unpainted bits black and painted one eyeball white.  I fixed up the skull on the medallion with a little black ink at some point.  I had to touch up the green skin too as it rubbed off in one or two raised points.  They’re looking pretty good and my hands are sweating from typing all this out on my MacBook Pro.  Tomorrow they should get finished, I’ve dubbed them: Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly.

3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers

3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers

Flesh painted Knarloc Green

Flesh painted Knarloc Green

So after taking some water out of my P3 Wet Palette I went to get some Knarloc Green paint.  It is a relatively new colour to me, but it was pretty thick and gooey on one side of the pot, so I jabbed my brush in and attempted to mix it.  This appears to have damaged one of the brushes I’ve been using the most lately and the end result was more Knarloc Green paint than I needed on the palette so I decided to paint a Nurgling and alter my plan slightly.

Although most people out there seem to have moved to a drown your model in wash or even straight up dipping their models in miracle goop, you can actually paint lowlights with wash or even just with paint.  So after base-coating the flesh with Knarloc Green I got out the Badab Black Wash and painted it into the recesses.  You don’t have to be super neat as the next step is to paint Knarloc Green highlights back onto the model.

Flesh shaded with Badab Black Wash

Flesh shaded with Badab Black Wash

Then after it was highlighted and the paint was dry, I got out the Devlan Mud Wash and painted it into the shadows too.  It was about then that I noticed I hadn’t painted the pointing hand of the Plaguebearer so I backtracked and caught that hand up to the rest of the model.

After the second wash had dried I painted yet more Knarloc Green on as a highlight.  Hopefully you can start to see the results.  Those two dark washes really help shade the model, but it isn’t a harsh but a more gradual transition.  You also get a kinda muddy look which is good for Nurgle.  After the fourth coat of Knarloc Green was dry I planned to paint the new Green Wash into the shadows some.

It had gotten quite hot and my hands were sweating I noticed my carefully applied rust was being re-wetted.  This is one of the risks of using pigments and why you should leave them till last.  I did them when I did so I could write something of a tutorial on how I currently use them in my rust technique.

Added highlights with Knarloc Green

Added highlights with Knarloc Green

I’ve since put the Ork Flesh Wash on, it isn’t my favourite green wash, but I decided to give it a go.  It sometimes, especially if you put a lot of it on, tints your green.  I can see one or two spots where this occurred on these models.  This is not what I’m looking for, but is easily fixed with yet more Knarloc Green.

After all this Knarloc Green I finally plan to switch to another green or two and start doing a little blending to try and get some edge highlights going on the model.  I was going to paint him a brighter green, but instead he’ll be my first Knarloc Green plaguebearer and with the medallion and pointing hand should stand out fine as the champion.

Now with this post complete it is dinner time.

Flesh shaded with Devlan Mud Wash

Flesh shaded with Devlan Mud Wash

Another highlight of Knarloc Green

Another highlight of Knarloc Green

So I suppose this is the third post in a series on my ever under refinement method for painting WW1 Canadian Corps rifleman, particularly Van Doos…  Maybe I’ll make a proper tutorial when I got all the kinks out.  I’ve made tutorials as I go before, but I also know the value of test miniatures when you plan to do an army or even just a platoon which is the current plan for the Van Doos. Doing the metalics on the model

So to recap the metalics, paint the weapon Boltgun Metal.  When dry do a thin armour wash, I mixed my own but you can use Badab Black if you want.  Then do a wetbrush or a drybrush if you care less of Chain Mail once the wash is dry.  You can then call the metals good enough, and I made sure to take a picture at this stage.

The easy way to paint weaponsOr you can add a little character, for the Foundry Rifleman miniature I used Gryphonne Sepia wash in splotches to age and dirty his gun just a bit.  The Servant of Decay (the plastic GW Orlock) was to get a more elaborate rusting of his weapon using a series of DIY washes starting with thinned rust brown ink, adding in various pigments, Mecharius Solar Orange, Firey Orange, until I tired of it or I went too far.  The paints are all GW, the rust brown ink is an old and valued GW ink, and the pigments come from a variety of companies.  AwesomePaintJob.com rust triad of pigments is quite good though it can be tough to open their containers.  The pigments have served me better than the washes which have separated a lot on me in two out of three cases. Finished Metalics and Foundry Flesh Triad (#5)

For the normal human flesh I used Foundry Triad number 5 just for simplicity sake.  I did do things differently than the uniform, I applied the B or base colour to most of what I wanted flesh.  I left some black showing and I put on basically a coat and a half.  I think used the A or shade version and painted where shadows would fall, finally I painted the C or highlight member on the triad on fingers, knuckles, cheeks, noses, chins, etc.  This is pretty good, apparently historical painters often don’t do eyes.

I decided to take a picture and update the blog as I’ve never had the best of luck with flesh washes.  I have GW’s original flesh wash, something like four different pots of it.  It seperates too much and is too brown.  I have the new Ogryn Flesh wash and it is probably a little too brown for me, so I cook up my own using old GW inks, Rust Brown and Plasma Red.  At least that is what I’m going to try.

The rifleman is mostly done at this stage, the Servant of Decay is more work and has fallen a bit behind.  The helmet, water bottle, and ‘putties’ will be painted Foundry Triad Drab #12.  This is an alright colour and one I used for a variety of gear on the original test model, the Imperial Guardsmen in the photos.

After that I just have to do the boots and base.  I’ll also give the flesh probably a post wash highlight of Foundry Triad #5c and do the eyes white with either a black or blue iris/pupil.  The Servant of Decay will be more work, but might be finished by the end of tomorrow.  The rifleman I hope to finish everything except the base tonight, but maybe I’ll do the base too, what the hell.

There has been considerable discussion on the Lead Adventure forum on how a Canadian Expeditionary Force uniform should look, circa 1916, for a rifleman in the Royal 22e Regiment…

I wasn’t very productive today.  I didn’t find a job.  I didn’t watch the World Cup.  I didn’t finish the second trench tile.  I didn’t even watch a film.  However I have worked on the trench tile.  I did watch “All Quiet on the Western Front” last night and I’ve been reviewing my other research material, principally two books. Maximum Grit

“The Canadian Corps in World War I”, is an Osprey title, perhaps the first one I bought.  It has a Van Doo on the cover and I pretty much will do a unit of them, how big of a unit I’m not sure.  Three officers and 116 enlisted men would be the best number.  The other book I bought is called “Postcards from the Trenches”, it is real postcards produced during the Great War that this collector ultimately donated to a museum and they produced the book.  It and the film reveal that my trenches may be too orderly, but other material shows it was all a matter of what sector the photos were taken in.  The Canadians or the Stormtroopers as the Germans dubbed them were always sent where the fighting was thickest Vimy, Ypres, the Somme.

As for modeling, after a coat of thinned down white glue dried, I then painted the tile black with a 1″ brush and Rustoleum brand black paint.  After that I twice went over the tile with a much smaller bush and Ceramcoat black.  Both times I used my ‘dab and jab’ technique as this keeps as much grit as possible in place and also is the only way to get paint into some gaps.  After even more black touchups, I painted the wood in the trench and just outside it Ceramcoat Terra Cota, which I thinned considerably with water.  Two coats was necessary for coverage but also tends towards orange… One coat of brown paint

Hopefully after the drybrush things look fine.  My two observations are it is better to leave a small gap between planks on the ground as it is easier to get the brush in there, requires less planks, and is more historically accurate.  The second observation is I don’t need quite as much grit inside the trenches.  Less grit but maybe more little detail bits.

I found two more interesting links while reading threads over a the Lead Adventure forum which along with B&C, The Waaagh, and the Miniatures Page is my go to place to discuss painting, converting, terrain, and mini manufacturers. Two coats of brown

The first link is an informative page with pictures about life in the trenches of World War One along the Western Front primarily.  The second link is to a new (to me) line of WW1 trench inserts.  These would be inserted into correctly cut shapes of foam, saving all the bother of doing the planking and sandbagging by hand.  They look pretty good, narrow, but big enough to accommodate 30mm bases apparently.  They are designed for 25/28 mm miniatures.  I may have to give them a go, at least their machine gun nests when I make version 2.0 of No Musk’s Land.

Tomorrow I’ll have to try harder to find a new job and it will be the drybrush fest as I will drybrush the planks, the sand and dirt, and the sandbags to match the first tile.

I’ve finished the scatter terrain, I’ve finished the dry brushing, I long ago finished construction.  All I have left to do is some fine detail work and take some decent pictures for the fanboys.  ;-)

However since I want to get out of the house, maybe watch some World Cup, try to find a job, I’m going to quickly update this blog, as I do have a lot of new pictures to show off, and I want to write down what I did, in case anyone wants to try and duplicate it, or in case I forget what I did myself…

First of all some eye candy, this is my test model, posing behind some sandbags made by the guy who runs EllaDan.de, these are about the nicest sandbags I’ve found.  He may sell you some if you ask nice.  I painted them with GW colors, the greens are Gretchin, then a no terribly effective drybrush of Camo, followed by 1.5 washes of Gryphon Sepia.  Then I did a dry brush of Rotting Flesh which was more effective.  I painted the dirt: Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic Brown in progressively lighter drybrushes.  That’s it, quick and relatively painless.  To speed up the process skip out the Camo green and the Sepia wash.

IMG_0010

That above picture is on Flickr along with some of my other finished models.  The Sandbags are a bit shiny, I think they will be getting sealed with a Matte sealant.  Darren was recommending Testor’s the other day, may have to invest in some when I’m gainfully employed again…

So what else do I have to show you, why lots of browns of course.  This project requires lots of black and brown paint so I bought a bunch and chose the ones I thought would work best, lets see how I did…

Chosing the best browns

So I gathered together all the new and old browns I’d bought and chose the following, for dirt Brown Velvet followed by Raw Sienna.  These are then labeled D1 and D2 as that is the order I will drybrush them on to the rocks and sand.  The final dry brush will be GW’s Bubonic Brown as it will help the terrain match my armies bases some.  For the wood I wanted contrast with the dirt and the GW colors and ended up chosing Terra Cotta and Golden Brown.  All these craft paints are made by Delta, three are labeled Delta Ceramcoat and the third is just an older or newer style bottle.  They are 2 Fl. Oz. and available at craft stores for about two bucks a pop.

Hopefully these four bottles which are basically new and full will last the duration of this project.  The From the Warp guy is a fan of these paints, he uses them on his miniatures I believe.  They cover pretty well, I just straight drybrushed them on except the Terra Cotta…

Terra Cotta which is what I painted the planks goes on pretty orange, especially if you paint it thick.  Try to avoid putting too much of it on.  When I paint wood grain, which is the case for the foot bridge and the planks in the trenches I try to paint in the direction of the grain.  This lets the brush lines sink with the wood grain and with a black undercoat is a quick way to add detail.  Again too much Terra Cotta and this works less well.  That said wood shouldn’t all be the same uniform color, especially not in the trenches so a little darker or lighter base coat here and there shouldn’t matter.

Now things weren’t looking as nice as the footbridge I did with GW paint, but just tell yourself it is the aggregate effect that counts.  It doesn’t matter how well you highlight a given plank, the effect you want is a whole battle field.  Hold the terrain at arms length and it will start looking better, this is about how close people will get to it.  People pick up models, terrain generally just sits there.  Also tell yourself you have to paint at least 23 more tiles and that it will look better when you finish.

So after the orangy and a bit patchy coat of Terra Cotta dries I then finished off the scatter terrain and the next morning begain the drybrush fest.  First I drybrushed the scatter terrain, then I drybrushed Golden Brown on the planks.  Then the three browns mentioned above onto everything else.  I never touched anything up if a little brown goes on the wrong spot push on.Stockpile of modeling stuff

The final touch is tiny details.  Over the last few years in addition to collecting resin terrain, balsa wood, and foam, I also bought up on eBay and elsewhere random battlefield accessories.  Warhammer 40,000 is heroic 28mm so I tried both 1/35th and 1/48th scale, both kinda work.  Lots of companies make bits in 28mm too and you can just use most anything to provide that little extra detail to your terrain.

I glued these on with white glue, then painted them black.  The last step will be to paint them and assemble the tile and take a decent photo or two.  You can add the detail earlier when you are doing the grit, I’ll experiment more going forward, but basically a bayonet here, a canteen there gives the terrain more personality, I plan on adding a lot of personality to this table…

Battle Field AccessoriesMore resine bits I bought on eBay.

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Small realistic details, bucket, canteen, knife, etc.Almost finished first terrain tile.