Posts Tagged ‘paints’

I’m actually quite worried I won’t get my 2010 Astronomi-con Vancouver army painted in time.  I’ve decided I’m only 5 mini’s away from being done, but besides these three rank and file models I have to paint both my HQ choices.  I was going to paint a Greater Daemon too, but now I’ve realized I’ll never get it done.  If you want to see what it will eventually look like, just go back in time and see the purple Bloodletter I’ve been painting…

Models painted Black and Tin Bitz

Models painted Black and Tin Bitz

As for the three models I’ve been working on tonight, I haven’t made much progress.  After finishing the Chaos Sorcerer for the Mighty Empires Campaign at Strategies, I ran some errands and applied to a few jobs.  It also got a lot hotter.  I slept in and had to delay painting until later into the evening.  I even bought some beer to try and fight the heat.  I really should get a fan.  I just sit in my apartment and sweat.  I have to go to the washroom and wipe the sweat from my forehead.

All these models are ‘kit bashed’.  They are made of various plastic, metal, and resin bits that I’ve acquired over the years.  I’m actually running out of in-print backpacks and I think chaos space marine legs.  I have extra torsos because I use metal and resin ones, but legs I’ve mostly used up.  I’ll have to buy another box of rank and file CSM someday.

Highlighted Black Power Armour

Highlighted Black Power Armour

I’ve actually decided to change things up.  Even after painting well over 100 Chaos Space Marines I’m still trying to get it down.  By getting it down, I mean paint more efficiently.  Give me 60 hours and I’ll paint you a really nice model.  But if your goal is to paint an entire 1500 point army, especially to a high standard you have to be smart about it.  I’ve moved to the cult of the black primer, but I’m trying to give grey a shot for some models.  I seem to spend a lot of time painting black into recesses after spraying my models with Chaos Black.  I think I may give Army Painter Primer or Testors or something a try.

I swear the models are never perfectly cleaned and primed no matter how much effort I put into them.

The first thing I did was paint the armour trim Tin Bitz.  All three of these models will have different coloured power armour as they are in three different squads.  Two of them are Plaguemarines and one is a Chosen of Chaos.  I decided to paint the trim first as it defines the model.  It is something I’ve been experimenting with while painting test Bezerkers.  The trim outlines the model which helps in painting the rest and in photographing.

Innis and Gunn Beer

Innis and Gunn Beer

I painted the Chosen first as it has Black Power Armour which is actually easy to highlight if you follow my system.  I spent a lot of time working on an efficient method of highlighting black.  I also leave room for the Purple Flames which are the signature feature of the Nefarious Fire Chaos Space Marine Warband.  To highlight black after much experimentation I use Foundry Triad #34 Charcoal Black.  I apply the paint in the following order Shade, Charcoal Black, Highlight, Shade.  I use the second layer of Shade to shape the highlights.  Then I give them a little Badaab Black wash to darken and blend the highlights.  Then I use the Highlight (34C) again and if I want the model to pop, I use a lighter grey.  This time I used the new light grey I bought which is Vallejo Sky Grey.  It is actually a bit too light, but any lighter grey will serve.

I’ve gotten more selective in what I highlight.  You have to do this if you’re trying to paint entire armies and squads, especially for the square based game.  The most important parts of a model are the face, hands, and the weapon.  I left the weapons black as they will mostly be a silver metallic colour, not Tin Bitz or Brass.  The hands I did highlight up to Sky Grey but this model has no helmet, he’ll get a blue tinged flesh like most of my CSM.

It is almost midnight and I’m on to my third beer.  So this is the end for the evening.  Tomorrow I have to get up earlier walk to Strategies and try to win my first game of Warhammer 8th Edition.  I don’t fancy my chances. I will be trying to get these three models done quickly to maximize the time I have for my HQ choices.

Whenever non-hobby people see my models they always ask what size brush I used so since I’ve had to buy some new brushes and although I’m not super picky, all brushes are not created equal, here are the brushes I’m using lately.  Most of them were bought at Deserres.

Tools of the Trade

Tools of the Trade

Today I’ve done a lot of painting, I got up early and I kept at it for most of the day. I’m working on three different chaos models. The first is my second test bezerker, the second is an old OOP Bloodletter which I’m painting up to be a generic lesser daemon, but mainly I’m practicing my dark purple skin tone technique, the final model is another old chaos model, this one is still in print, non-the-less mine is lead and will serve as a Herald of Tzeentch come Sunday at Strategies.

Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker

Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker

What I really should be working on is my Astronomi-con Vancouver army, but their is a method to my madness. The Khorne Bezerker is serving as a test model for my Forgeworld Khorne Terminator Lord conversion. The Bloodletter is a test model for a bigger daemon. Even the sorcerer could be argued that it is a test model, as I need to get that flashy look for my Slaneesh Sorcerer I’ll take to the tournament.

Well with all the time I put in, I could have put in even more, and none of the models are finished. I had hoped to start on three other models today, but tomorrow will do. I did a lot of work on the Bezerker’s red armour, the Bloodletter’s purple skin, and the sorcerer’s grey robe.

The model I’ve done the least on since the last blog post is the Bezerker.  I finished the purple flames using the Foundry Royal Purple Triad pretty much as they intended.  I’ve been having brush troubles today.  Several brushes were retired and I couldn’t find a good ‘0’ or ’00’.  I’ve been focusing on speed and buying and using bigger brushes, that now when I want to paint flames or fine highlights my tools are letting me down.  Tomorrow I will invest in some new brushes.  I’m tempted to go to Imperial Hobbies because a few gabs have appeared in my paint collection.  Specifically I need a green between Orkhide Shade and say VMC Sick Green.  I ended up making one…

Building up Purple and Grey Highlights

Building up Purple and Grey Highlights

So the greens on the Bezerker are for his seems or tubes or whatever.  I painted them Orkhide Shade then tried to go right to Sick Green but it ended up looking way too Christmas tree-ish.  I then mixed a darker green for the other models.  I also had troubles getting the green in the tiny gaps without damaging my red or grey highlights.  The other thing I did on the Bezerker was it’s ‘silver’ metallic stuff.  I didn’t use silver, but rather GW’s Chainmail.  This was way too shiny, so another dark gunmetal colour would be nice too.  I can darken Chainmail with Badaab Black and Devlan Mud wash but there is always a risk of spillage or seepage, so I think I’d prefer an even simpler metal.  I have Boltgun Metal but I think something even darker than that would find many uses in my painting.

Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze

Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze

The Bloodletter got his skin finished off.  It came out pretty well, but eventually I just had to say enough because I have bigger models to work on and I need to get them done within two weeks.  Thankfully I’m unemployed… The skin was painted GW’s Liche Purple twice.  I let black come through, I missed painting a little bit of stuff on one shoulder, I thought it was a necklace but it was his collar bone.  After that I think I did the first part of Foundry’s Royal Purple Triad, but perhaps before that a custom dark purple wash.  Then I worked up the Royal Purple Triad followed by a thinned old purple wash.  Then it was basically Royal Purple Triad Highlight along with some glazes.  I might go slightly pinker maybe to Warlock Purple on the big fella, we’ll see how it looks and how much time it takes.

I also did some striations.  Yet another place where I needed a good sharp point. I actually have some really tiny brushes, but I need zeros and double zeros too.

An extremely highlighted grey robe

An extremely highlighted grey robe

The Sorcerer got a pretty surreal grey robe.  I didn’t use that many different greys, basically just GW ones, two Foundation ones, and one regular one.  In fact I chucked out a light grey, which doing some infantory I think I need four colours and I’m going to try non-GW ones, preferably in the dropper style bottles.  Sometimes they come out too much, but generally they are pretty easy to work with, for super common colours I like the flip tops like black and white or metallics which I keep out of my P3 Wet Palette.

The robe got a wash of Badaab Black but that didn’t go as well as I would like so future washes were custom made by me out of old Black GW Wash.  I did two, one thinned and one really thinned.  I also built up the highlights to Astronomicon Grey, but then I went even higher mixing in some white.  I also painted in lowlights.  This was partly to get rid of unwanted shine, but mainly as it looked good.  I got the aforementioned thin brush and painted black lines into folds.  I also painted on more folds than were sculpted using various greys.  This is a technique I use on skin too, such as the striations.

Building up Green highlights

Building up Green highlights

After I was satisfied with the robe I touched up the black and waited until the Bezerker was ready to do green.  I wanted a different green, working towards an old pot of GW Jade Green, possibly going even brighter.  I started off with Orkhide Shade, leaving some black showing on all three models.  Then I did a mix of Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Model Colour Sick Green.  Finally pure Sick Green was applied then a custom wash made from an old GW Ork Flesh Wash mixed with a tad of Shadow Black Ink.

Then I deemed them good enough for tonight and tomorrow I will finish them mostly and try harder to find a job.  I might go out tomorrow night, so I don’t think I’ll put in as many hours painting, but I’m in the home stretch for all three models, so it will be time to work on three different Chaos Space Marines.

Cloth after the black wash

Cloth after the black wash

While making the magnetic movement tray for a unit of old Night Goblin archers that I thought was 55 strong, 5 rows of 11.  I discovered that it was only 50 strong, well 49 including the hero.  It was late at night and I had been cutting 20mm squares of magnetic material into the wee hours, so I decided rather than just borrow one goblin from another unit for the game I was planning to play on Sunday, I’d dig out some new plastic Night Goblin archers I got off eBay and paint them up.

I’m a slow painter, so painting five models, even rank and file Night Goblins in basically one day, which was the task ahead of me, was going to take effort.  I would not be able to go at a leisurely pace, nor would I have lots of time for layered washes or trying out new stuff.  I began cleaning the models and though I learned later I didn’t too a perfect job, I had them cleaned and on magnetic bases by 1:38 AM.

Liche Purple Basecoat

Liche Purple Basecoat

Despite staying up late the night before I couldn’t sleep and got out of bed at quarter to six.  No I didn’t start painting then, but I did update this blog and probably give them there first coat of Chaos Black Spray primer.  I had to take care of my daily job search as well as buy groceries, so about 10 AM I had to get serious about painting these models.

I did two blasts of GW Black spray paint, which unlike all my recent Plaguebearers covered pretty good.  I did need to put on some more black here and there.  After I had a good black it was time to highlight it.  I used my top secret black highlighting recipe of Foundry Black Triad number 34.  After quickly putting on B & C from the triad I did a wash of Badab Black.  Then I did a slight re-highlight of 34C.

Applying purple flames

Applying purple flames

That’s it.  Bam! On to the purple.

For the purple I used my new dark purple recipe which consists of Liche Purple highlighted with the entire Foundry Royal Purple Triad, number 19 for the numerically superior.  That was it, even the flames were free-handed in one go.  No washes in this purple recipe.  I did take my second break during this phase.

The next phase was the most stressful, painting a face inside the hoods which I’d already highlighted.  This was a bit unnerving, but I never had to redo any purple or black highlights.  The only time I touched up one dot of purple, was doing one eyeball later on.

Close up of purple flames

Close up of purple flames

I didn’t use the exact green recipe I used on the others.  I probably went further than I needed to, but Goblins have characterful faces and getting the green to pop is the key to painting them.  I used Vallejo Sick Green, Game Colour 29 as my base.  Then I used a less than great pot of GW Goblin Green.  Things were looking OK, but I decided to paint GW Thraka Green wash into the darker recesses of the face and pretty much all over the hands and forearms.

I then had to build back up my highlights so I used Vallejo Game Colour Goblin Green.  This is only slightly lighter than GW’s Goblin Green if any different at all.  Although this was sound blending and colour progression, it wasn’t a big difference maker and was probably a poor choice given my goal of speed.  Then I got serious about highlighting the skin, I used a medium aged octagon pot of GW’s Striking Scorpion Green.  Finally highlights were with a round pot, that is starting to really show it’s age of, Bilious Green.  That pot was one of the first ten or if not ten, twenty I ever bought.  It came in I think the Monster Paint Set.

2 coats of green paint and a wash

2 coats of green paint and a wash

I think I took a break during the greens, I know I took a WIP photo.  The model was basically done, the big three of tunic, trim, and flesh were finished.  So I decided to ‘stick it to the man’ and not highlight the brown.  I quickly put brown over the leather straps, quiver, and arrows and practically ran down the hall to photograph them thinking I was done and it was time for dinner.

I think it was about 5pm.  As I was uploading the photos to my computer from my iPhone I remember, “Oi I didn’t paint the eyes!”.  Turns out I didn’t paint the mouths either.  These are important elements especially for Night Goblins.

This can be a tricky phase as you can ruin or at least damage careful highlights.  I dotted the eyes white, then Sunburst Yellow, another epically old pot, but not as old as the one beside it which will remain nameless (Badmoon Yellow from the Ork VS Eldar paint set).  That was it for the eyes.

Greenskin is good to go

Greenskin is good to go

The mouths I did a bit differently than usual.  I got out the paint colour I’m making famous, Reaper Master Series Clotted Red and painted the entire interior of the mouth with it.  I then got out Vallejo Beige and made sure it was subtle and painted the teeth.  The teeth on these models are like a carved pumpkin they go back as little triangles way into the back of the mouth.  This is not the norm for GW teeth and I wonder why it was done this way, probably something to do with lasers.

Anyway I think I took a WIP photo and despite being tired and hungry I did one more trick on the mouths.  I took a drop of water and some plasma red ink, mixed up a thin wash and filled the mouths with it.  I then leaned the models on their backs so it could colour the teeth and dry.  You have to wash that your wash doesn’t overflow.  If it does, quickly soak it up with a brush.

The false finish

The false finish

After laying on the couch listening to some blues, it was time to re-highlight the teeth.  It was necessary to touch up a lip here and there during the whole mouth painting process.  Highlights were done with Vallejo Beige and boring old Skull White.

Then I took a nap.  That’s right no dinner for me I was beat.

Much later I dragged my ass out of bed, photographed the models as best I could, typed up this here blog entry/tutorial and then gave the models a coal of Purity Seal.

Finally Finished Night Goblin

Finally Finished Night Goblin

Tomorrow I will base 54 Night Goblins and their magnetic movement tray, or die in the attempt.  Well maybe things aren’t that dire, it is just a game.  Damn mandatory mercenaries week in the Mighty Empires Campaign.

Five Franticly Painted Night Goblin Archers

Night Goblin Pose 1

Night Goblin Pose 2

Night Goblin Pose 3

Well I’m back.  Today has been a bit strange.  I did a little biking, found out quickly how fat and out of shape I am.  I also had a totally flat tire, so I got a new tube.  I also visited the art supply store, the local game store, and this weird craft store on Main Street.  I invested about another $25 into this project.  That is starting to seem like a lot of money seeing as I’m unemployed and have not received a cent in government assistance in almost three months of waiting now…

Enough of that, I still don’t sleep, at least not at night.  I worked on the terrain tile in the wee hours.  It should be done today.  The one thing I haven’t done that will take a bit of time is to go through my bitz boxes and various battlefield accesory kits I’ve acquired in the last three years while scheming up this project.  I have too much hobby stuff, I’d like to have a little less hobby stuff and a little more money right about now.

Colour Samples

Anyway I also bought a lot more paint, mostly browns, trying to better match the GW browns I use to do my basing on the Diseased Sons and the Nefarious Fire.  I generally do Scorched Earth, Snakebite Leather, and Bubonic Brown, all dry brushes, all the newest versions of those colors.  From my previous terrain and display base projects I learned that the cheap craft paint I bought didn’t match very well. I ended up using some of the GW paint, basically you can use two or three craft browns, but if you do the last drybrush of Bubonic Brown it looks alright.  I think I did better at matching the GW colors this time, thanks to the swatch I made.

Old Craft Paint

I also bought some browns that contrasted with the GW browns, generally some tan, beige type colours.  These will be for the trench lining.  I’ll use some GW browns for some things, especially detail work.  I think I’ll stick with a trifecta of Gretchin Green, Camo Green, and Rotting Flesh for the sandbags, likely with some Devlan Mud or Gryphon Sepia washes.

Everything should go quick and easy now that I got a good coat of black.  Waiting for the thick coats of black and the glue to dry is inefficient working on 12″ square tiles.  I’m going to work more on scatter terrain and models in the down time.  I have lots of stuff to paint.  I plan to build a few models soon.

New Craft Paint

One last tip, to coat the really rough grit, it is best to get a gob of paint on the tip of your brush and jab or dab it on the grit.  Trying to paint normal brush strokes doesn’t work so well and ends up knocking off some of the grit.  You can paint the really fine grain sand normally.  After the drybrush fest we’ll see if I’m full of shit or not.

Did anyone get the Rheostatics reference?

Three Layers of Grit

All Black Tile?