Posts Tagged ‘Reaper Master Series’

So today hasn’t been the best day for hobby progress.  I slept in, but I did go to Richmond and Imperial Hobbies to buy some more paint and stuff.  Last night while I couldn’t sleep I finally made an actual army list for Waaagh Musk 40K.  This is my old Space Ork army from Rogue Trader and 2nd Edition.  With the exception of painting two Gorka Morka gangs, I haven’t used any of those figs for years.

More tools of the trade

More tools of the trade

When the last codex was rumored to be coming out I started to think what it would take to get my army back on the table.  I made plans, I bought stuff. I never made an army list though I did realize that even with just the painted and partially painted stuff I have a full Force Org chart worth of stuff.  Of course a lot of my models are illegal or at least not quite right.  A lot of heavy weapons will need to be swapped, vehicles will need to be modified, new HQ will be in order, but the actual amount of work is less than the Servants of Decay and it requires negligible special orders and no major purchases, maybe three kits and a single blister would be enough.

Most everything in the codex I have an OOP version of with the exception of the battle wagon and trukks.  My trukk has a skorcha so the plan is to convert it into a War Trak Skorcha.  I liked my War Traks and Skorchas back in the day and in Gorka Morka so lots of flamer templates will be in order.  I also want to try some of the new kits and the Loota rules seem good so the only new squads will be Lootas/Burnas.  Everything else is either painted or partially painted.  Here is my first 1500 point list I’ll be working towards, but I already think I’d change it up a bit if I took it to Astronomi-con:

  • HQ: Big Mek with Shock Attack Gun 110 points
  • HQ: Big Mek with Burna on Warbike 98 points
  • EL: 7 X Lootas, Mek, Grot Oiler 110 points
  • FA: 4 x Warbikes with a Nob 140 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 105 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axes with Shootas and Nob 97 points
  • HS: Looted Rhino with Skorcha 95 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moons with Nob and Trukk 157 points
  • HS: Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ie Gobsmasha 130 points
  • HS: Battle Wagon with Killa Kannon 185 points
  • EL: 5 X Burna Boys with Mek 80 points
  • FA: 2 X Skorchas, one with Grot Riggas 85 points

If you read that and said it wouldn’t score very well in Astronomi-con Army Comp, you’re over thinking things.  This is an army that hasn’t been used in a decade that was cobbled together under way different rules and will be kitbashed into legality.  When I learned I could use dreads as troops if I took Big Meks I was all over that, but I’d probably be fine with one less Mek, maybe even just a simple Big Mek on foot would be best, then I could afford more Warbikes, Burna Boyz, Skorchas, possibly even a Nobz Mob in a Battle Wagon.  I might do that all sometime down the road, but the official target army list for Waaagh Musk is listed above and detailed over on the Waaagh.

I still plan to do the Servants of Decay army.  I’ll be painting another test figure for it over grey primer someday soon.  However as someone who is still unemployed, though I did apply to at least three new jobs today, placing a large order to Forgeworld is a ways off.  I need some Forgeworld goodies for my Chaos Spacemarines, or at least I’d like a Rhino conversion kit and the Bezerker Terminator bits.  Those would figure into my 2011 Astro-Van army.  I need a lot of stuff for the Servants of Decay hundreds of dollars worth of stuff.  I could paint 100 orks and not have to buy a model, but to field the army listed above will require a few new kits and maybe some bitz too.

WIP Gretchin

WIP Gretchin

I through some more paint on the Gretchin, the metal bitz are done and I started on some blue fabric type tests.  I used the Foundation Blue then the new GW Wash as I figured that is what most people would do.  I later highlighted with an old pot of Lightning Blue.  I discovered I like painting Brazen Brass way better over Black than over Grey, even after washing it.  Painting Silver over Grey or Gunmetal is no problems.  One of the paints I bought today is the darkest Vallejo metallic I could find.  I also bought some Reaper Master Series paint, well one pot, and some Water Effects which I’ll use on my terrain tiles, which I hope to resume later this month.

Stay tuned for lots more painting, but I really hope I get a job soon and have to fight harder for hobby and blogging time.  I also hope I can get my sleep schedule normalized, we’ll see what the latest blood test reveals.

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Before I went ahead and painting my Forgeworld Khorne Terminator Lord I wanted to get my dark red down.  I wanted a really dark evil looking red, like you see on some of the better figs painted online.  My first test Bezerker didn’t go as well as I would have liked. My second Khorne Bezerker still took too many coats of paints as some of my reds are old and not in good shape.  I think I got a look I’m happy with, which I’ll try to simplify when I paint more Bezerkers and Khorne worshipers.

My dark red test Bezerker

My dark red test Bezerker

The keys to this dark red include Reaper Master Series Clotted Red.  This is possibly close to the new GW Scab Red which I don’t own.  I actually used an even darker red from Reaper called Bloodstain Red as the true base, I’d probably skip this for rank and file miniatures.  After the base coats are dry I used a custom dark red wash I made by mixing blank ink, red ink, and water.  This is important I didn’t use the off the shelf GW red wash.

After the wash was dry I did another coat of Clotted Red as a highlight.  Then I used some out of print reds, Go Fasta Red and Red Gore.  These are old GW round pots with white lids.  They aren’t crucial.  After that I think I did another wash, another step I’d probably skip if I was going for speed and not smoothness.

When that is done it is time to paint a more vibrant highlight, for this I’d intended to use the new GW Blood Red in the flip top bolter shell pot.  This didn’t seem to dry the way I wanted, it came too orange and too matte.  I also used old red lidded GW Glazes, specifically red after the highlights.  This was painted over the highlight and the surrounding area.

Ruby Red on the left, Blood Red on the right

Ruby Red on the left, Blood Red on the right

One thing I also did was use some of my darker reds to tone down highlights, I also used straight black ink to shade and even to black line some parts of the model where too much red got into the shadows.  This was done on the fist and on the shoulder pad for sure.  I also kept building up highlights with Blood Red and Red Glaze finally switching to an old pot of Ruby Red.  I think Owen gave me this pot, as I don’t think I would have bought it.  It is almost the exact same colour as Blood Red but I like the consistency of it and how it dries glossier.  It was the final highlight on the power armour.

Next up is touching up the black and the brass.  Then I’ll finish the power armour.  I realized while I was out and about that I don’t actually need to finish the test models, just the key parts of the test models, that I plan to duplicate on the more expensive resin models.  So soon I will work on three more Chaos Space Marines and probably the Sorcerer too.  I don’t know if I will paint much more tonight, but tomorrow it will be more of the same, looking for work and painting miniatures.

This is how the first test model ended up looking:
Khorne Bezerker test model

That’s right, I’m back from Vancouver Island and although I had a very unproductive start to the day as I indulged in sleeping in, I eventually got up and started work on two more test models.  Why am I still painting test models when Astronomi-con Vancouver is like two weeks away?  Well I want to get my red and purple painting down pretty tight as I’m going to do some expensive resin models and I hope that by getting the kinks worked out on plainer janer models I can paint the special models quicky and efficiently.

I still plan to try and get the Chaos Sorcerer done by this Sunday for the Warhammer Campaign at Strategies.  I’m not even last, as more people have joined and they are winless but have played less games than me.  Hopefully the sorcerer and the 3 Beast of Nurgle will make a difference as so far I’ve not been very competative.

Beginning new test models

Beginning new test models

I’ve also agreed to paint yet more square based models for the Vancouver Gamers Warhammer 8th Edition builder challenge.  I’m actually winning that as I painted so many goblins and I have so many more that are close to being finished.  I just need to base them, do some touch ups, paint shields etc.  I also need to do war machine crew.  I had hoped post-Astronomi-con to try and clean off my painting table for the first time in years, but I realized I’m going to have to keep painting goblins in addition to the other stuff I have already primed and ready to be painted.

Grom the Paunch in pieces

Grom the Paunch in pieces

I’ve put a lot of thought into my Orks and Goblins (mostly Goblins) army.  I still don’t think it is very competitive at low points, as most of my points are common goblins and a few goblin heroes and war machines.  I think at 2000 or 2500 points I will have some ork infantry as well as some harder hitting units though I’m not sure which ones.  I’d like to do up a lot of things just to try them out but money and time will keep me painting the models I already own.  One of which is a very old Grom the Paunch chariot model.  The shrink wrap is off but the model has never really left the box, Grom is still slightly discolored.

I was going to convert this chariot to be a regular goblin chariot, or perhaps an ork chariot, as I’m anti-special characters.  We’ll have to see what I end up doing…

My DIY Dark Red Wash

My DIY Dark Red Wash

The 2nd Test Bezerker first had the metal trim done, as that is what I did last time.  It is just Tin Bitz then Brazen Brass highlight than thinned down Rust Brown Ink used as a glaze to colour the highlights as well as blend them in.  I happened upon this combo and have been using it for years, I don’t think many people do metallics like this.

The red was a lot of work, too much work for rank and file models.  I’ll simplify the recipe post-Astronomi-con.  I used two of the three dark red Reaper Master Series paints I bought.  First Bloodstain Red then Clotted Red then a custom wash made from Plasma Red Ink and Shadow Black Ink both of these are very old GW/Citadel branded products.  Then when this was dry I did Clotted Red again followed by an extremely old pot of Go Fasta Red.  I then used an old Red Gore but that was a mistake as that paint has gotten difficult to work with, so I had to paint offer some highlights with darker reds and build back up, this thickened the paint considerably on the groin plate.

Bezerker after several reds

Bezerker after several reds

After one coat of that I think I did another wash of my custom black/red wash.  When that was dry I used my new pot of Blood Red.  After that I used a fairly old pot of GW Red Glaze.  The plan is to keep building up the highlights with Blood Red and Red Glaze until I get tired or get it looking pretty good.  I don’t intend to go up to orange let alone yellow.  I want a dark and evil looking red.

The old out of print Bloodletter is serving as a test model for a bigger daemon.  I don’t want stereotypical red daemons so I’m trying purple.  This is after one coat of GW’s darkest purple, Liche I think it is called.  This is one of my favourite colours in GW’s paint line.  I plan to paint another layer of this and then a wash, not the new GW wash either, I’m sticking with the old one suitably thinned, though I might even add a touch of black to it.  Then I plan to highlight with the Foundry Royal Purple Triad and after that I may do the highlight up even more, throw in some glazes too.

Fancy new static grass

Fancy new static grass

Oh and I’ve bought more basing materials which I plan to test out post-Astronomi-con on some of my many, many goblins.

Cloth after the black wash

Cloth after the black wash

While making the magnetic movement tray for a unit of old Night Goblin archers that I thought was 55 strong, 5 rows of 11.  I discovered that it was only 50 strong, well 49 including the hero.  It was late at night and I had been cutting 20mm squares of magnetic material into the wee hours, so I decided rather than just borrow one goblin from another unit for the game I was planning to play on Sunday, I’d dig out some new plastic Night Goblin archers I got off eBay and paint them up.

I’m a slow painter, so painting five models, even rank and file Night Goblins in basically one day, which was the task ahead of me, was going to take effort.  I would not be able to go at a leisurely pace, nor would I have lots of time for layered washes or trying out new stuff.  I began cleaning the models and though I learned later I didn’t too a perfect job, I had them cleaned and on magnetic bases by 1:38 AM.

Liche Purple Basecoat

Liche Purple Basecoat

Despite staying up late the night before I couldn’t sleep and got out of bed at quarter to six.  No I didn’t start painting then, but I did update this blog and probably give them there first coat of Chaos Black Spray primer.  I had to take care of my daily job search as well as buy groceries, so about 10 AM I had to get serious about painting these models.

I did two blasts of GW Black spray paint, which unlike all my recent Plaguebearers covered pretty good.  I did need to put on some more black here and there.  After I had a good black it was time to highlight it.  I used my top secret black highlighting recipe of Foundry Black Triad number 34.  After quickly putting on B & C from the triad I did a wash of Badab Black.  Then I did a slight re-highlight of 34C.

Applying purple flames

Applying purple flames

That’s it.  Bam! On to the purple.

For the purple I used my new dark purple recipe which consists of Liche Purple highlighted with the entire Foundry Royal Purple Triad, number 19 for the numerically superior.  That was it, even the flames were free-handed in one go.  No washes in this purple recipe.  I did take my second break during this phase.

The next phase was the most stressful, painting a face inside the hoods which I’d already highlighted.  This was a bit unnerving, but I never had to redo any purple or black highlights.  The only time I touched up one dot of purple, was doing one eyeball later on.

Close up of purple flames

Close up of purple flames

I didn’t use the exact green recipe I used on the others.  I probably went further than I needed to, but Goblins have characterful faces and getting the green to pop is the key to painting them.  I used Vallejo Sick Green, Game Colour 29 as my base.  Then I used a less than great pot of GW Goblin Green.  Things were looking OK, but I decided to paint GW Thraka Green wash into the darker recesses of the face and pretty much all over the hands and forearms.

I then had to build back up my highlights so I used Vallejo Game Colour Goblin Green.  This is only slightly lighter than GW’s Goblin Green if any different at all.  Although this was sound blending and colour progression, it wasn’t a big difference maker and was probably a poor choice given my goal of speed.  Then I got serious about highlighting the skin, I used a medium aged octagon pot of GW’s Striking Scorpion Green.  Finally highlights were with a round pot, that is starting to really show it’s age of, Bilious Green.  That pot was one of the first ten or if not ten, twenty I ever bought.  It came in I think the Monster Paint Set.

2 coats of green paint and a wash

2 coats of green paint and a wash

I think I took a break during the greens, I know I took a WIP photo.  The model was basically done, the big three of tunic, trim, and flesh were finished.  So I decided to ‘stick it to the man’ and not highlight the brown.  I quickly put brown over the leather straps, quiver, and arrows and practically ran down the hall to photograph them thinking I was done and it was time for dinner.

I think it was about 5pm.  As I was uploading the photos to my computer from my iPhone I remember, “Oi I didn’t paint the eyes!”.  Turns out I didn’t paint the mouths either.  These are important elements especially for Night Goblins.

This can be a tricky phase as you can ruin or at least damage careful highlights.  I dotted the eyes white, then Sunburst Yellow, another epically old pot, but not as old as the one beside it which will remain nameless (Badmoon Yellow from the Ork VS Eldar paint set).  That was it for the eyes.

Greenskin is good to go

Greenskin is good to go

The mouths I did a bit differently than usual.  I got out the paint colour I’m making famous, Reaper Master Series Clotted Red and painted the entire interior of the mouth with it.  I then got out Vallejo Beige and made sure it was subtle and painted the teeth.  The teeth on these models are like a carved pumpkin they go back as little triangles way into the back of the mouth.  This is not the norm for GW teeth and I wonder why it was done this way, probably something to do with lasers.

Anyway I think I took a WIP photo and despite being tired and hungry I did one more trick on the mouths.  I took a drop of water and some plasma red ink, mixed up a thin wash and filled the mouths with it.  I then leaned the models on their backs so it could colour the teeth and dry.  You have to wash that your wash doesn’t overflow.  If it does, quickly soak it up with a brush.

The false finish

The false finish

After laying on the couch listening to some blues, it was time to re-highlight the teeth.  It was necessary to touch up a lip here and there during the whole mouth painting process.  Highlights were done with Vallejo Beige and boring old Skull White.

Then I took a nap.  That’s right no dinner for me I was beat.

Much later I dragged my ass out of bed, photographed the models as best I could, typed up this here blog entry/tutorial and then gave the models a coal of Purity Seal.

Finally Finished Night Goblin

Finally Finished Night Goblin

Tomorrow I will base 54 Night Goblins and their magnetic movement tray, or die in the attempt.  Well maybe things aren’t that dire, it is just a game.  Damn mandatory mercenaries week in the Mighty Empires Campaign.

Five Franticly Painted Night Goblin Archers

Night Goblin Pose 1

Night Goblin Pose 2

Night Goblin Pose 3

So since my sleep schedule is totally screwed up due to loud neighbours and being unemployed, I put quite a lot of work into these Nurgle daemons today, probably should have gone to the gym or something.  Tomorrow I will go to the gym and of course look for a job.  I also will likely finish these three plaguebearers tomorrow which when varnished will give me 40 painted, enough for my full rank bonus horde for the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires Campaign at Strategies starting Sunday.

Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin

Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin

The first thing I did after taking water out of my wet palette was finish the Knarloc Green Plaguebearer and his little Nurgling buddy.  I used GW’s Knarloc Green, and three Vallejo greens: Sick, Goblin, and Green Grey.  I blended the paint on the wet palette and highlighted.  I had a problem with Sick being too much of a step but with some blending and fighting the constant tendency of the model to go ‘minty’ I eventually put enough little dibs and dabs so that he looked like someone whom extra time had been taken painting.  I also used a little tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia wash at the very end to blend it to dark again.

With that complete I decided to do the bones next.  I decided on the bones as if some red gets on the bones it is OK, but if some bone gets on the guts you have to repaint it.  There are a couple of exposed bones on one plaguebearer and of course the one big horn on each model.  I change it up now and again, but basically I paint bones Snakebite Leather.  Bleached Bone or Vallejo Beige doesn’t cover black that great unless you gob it on, and you don’t want to do that.  So after painting the bones and skulls and horns Snakebite Leather I reached for the Vallejo Beige and put some of that on the wet palette.  I also got some GW Scorched Brown out too.  I used the dark brown to darken and to add little stripes or striations to the horns.  Then I put a very thin amount of beige on the horns.

Painting bone colour

Painting bone colour

Next I got out my newly discovered Reaper Master Series Clotted Red.  This was added to the wet palette.  I’d started a new piece of parchment and with considerably less water in the container, basically just a damp sponge.  I had all types of problems in Vancouver’s heat with the parchment drying out.  I still have a long way to go until I get the wet palette just right.  Anyway I put a fairly think layer of Clotted Red on all the things I wanted red.  Then I mixed up a bone wash, this is a fairly standard recipe for me of water and old GW Rust Brown Ink.  Some times I add a dab of red ink into the mix.  I paint this pretty much all over the bone color, though obviously you can leave some of the bone unwashed.

When that was all dry I painted more Vallejo Beige onto the bones in something of a drybrush but not totally, kinda half and half.  I did drybrush white onto the bones, but I also painted white on the tips and in thin lines.  I don’t like to drybrush but one thing that looks good and if you’re careful, drybrushing bones, horns, and skulls yields nice results.  Sometimes I don’t use white on my bones at all, this time since I’d invested so much time in the models I did.

Beginning Guts and Gore

Beginning Guts and Gore

Next I got out my new pot of GW Blood Red and painted it on the ‘guts’ as a highlight.  I’d used Beige and White to get reasonable exposed bones going.  Then I mixed up another custom wash, this one is two drops of water, two brushes of old GW Shadow Black Ink and two brushes worth of old GW Plasma Red Ink.  These like the Rust Brown Ink are in round pots with Citadel logos and black lids.

This takes a bit to dry so I likely took a break or touched up things.  Eventually I touched up some of the unpainted bits black and painted one eyeball white.  I fixed up the skull on the medallion with a little black ink at some point.  I had to touch up the green skin too as it rubbed off in one or two raised points.  They’re looking pretty good and my hands are sweating from typing all this out on my MacBook Pro.  Tomorrow they should get finished, I’ve dubbed them: Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly.

3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers

3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers