Well now that I’m back blogging, I guess I should make one more progress post before I call it an evening. I had hoped to get the purple flames done on both models, but there are so many. Plus I decided I needed to do the grey rock on the bases before I did the flames, this may have saved me some trouble, but I made my own trouble working on the Khorne Terminator Lord’s base especially.
I’m not sure if it is visible, but this base has a lot of detail. I’m going to highlight every single flame around the base, plus I have the free hand ones on the armor and cloak. The sorcerer has a lot of purple flames too. After I finish those I have to paint the silver metallic bits, mostly weapons such as the combi-bolter the Lord is holding and the big spike that goes through the dead Commissar. After that I plan to do the green cabling followed by finishing off the brass trim. There is a lot of brass trim on the Khorne Terminator Lord from Forgeworld.
I should make it, but I still have lots of detail work to do, skulls, belts, the sorcerer’s Force Weapon and all the unpainted detail on the Khorne Terminator Lord. Tomorrow night may be a late one. Tonight I’m ending at a respectable 10:48 PM. My eyes, back, and my right knee are bothering me, so hopefully a night’s sleep will help all three.
So after a few days away from this blog, I’ve gotten some encouragement to resume posting, so I decided I would if for no other reason than to make sure some people, or at least silly internet handles, get the fame they apparently so desperately crave. That said I think I’m scaling down my online forum participation. I just don’t feel like going out of my way to help anonymous people online anymore. I think I deserve to be more selfish after all these years. Plus there is at least one more forum I’m never visiting again.
So this post is dedicated to all the wonderful people I’ve met online such as:
And of course the many people who have been added to Bell of Lost Souls or have decided that they should go there to be immature online. Led of course by the self important hobby higher authority himself, TastyTaste. Who apparently should have picked a better online handle, because I couldn’t find him on the front page of Google… Oh I almost forgot about the guy with the pink text who seems to be proud that he is an asshole online. Alas his name and blog are so insignificant I can never remember what they are. Not that I remember any of the names above, but luckily I’ve decided if they want to draw attention to themselves and they choose to do so by picking on people online, well they should pick on someone other than me.
I’ll make you famous!
Why do these people share the same hobby as me? They aren’t people I want to associate with in the real world and I’ll be damned if I’ll give them another 15 seconds of fame. Onward to the minis I am currently painting for Astronomi-con Vancouver which is this Saturday and Sunday. I have one day left to finish my HQ choices and do touch ups, pack, maybe re-read the rules seeing as I’ve been playing Warhammer Fantasy Battle recently. Oh well it is not like I ever get to play test the armies I dream up. Why start this year?
These models aren’t finished though while I was away from this blog I finished several models. I’m not doing any step by step tutorials, maybe if you ask Ar_nihs he’ll tell you have to paint dark red or blue or black and type up a nice step by step tutorial on his blog. Or you can go back in time and see how I did it on other recent models. The reds and blues are basically done, but the blacks and brass need a lot of work still.
Updated March 2nd 2013
Why do people feel the need to be assholes online? They’ve never met me, but apparently they found my website, linked to it, appropriated some of the content, posted on some obscure forum, but couldn’t resist to the urge to say about something I’ve spent over a decade building “most of which is crap, BTW”. They even put it in brackets as their opinion is totally superfluous to the actual content of thread. They just felt the need to insult someone online. So in honour of those people who continue to think this is acceptable behaviour online I’ve updated this blog post to immortalize Supaglue who’s real name may be Gilmore something or other, congratulations on being an asshole!
I give you my latest masterpiece or at least the latest model I had to paint in less than a week so I could use it in the next game of the Mighty Empires campaign at Strategies. This model will actually represent a Herald of Tzeentch for which GW has not released a model. I had this Chaos Sorcerer in my spare minis box. I bought it in 1994 or 1995 to be an ally to my Orks and Goblins. In the olden days you could take 25% allies in both Warhammer and Warhammer Fantasy Battle. This lead to some unbalanced armies but it was a fun way to try stuff out. I got my entire chaos miniature collection as a result of buying some models to use as allies to my orks…
I also have a few old Dark Elves which look considerable different than the current excellent models, but those will stay unpainted for a few more years or decades.
This model got lavished a lot of care and custom blends and colours. It also made use of thinned washes and glazes, both official off the shelf ones and my own one of kind mixtures of water and ink. I also made use of highlights, lowlights, edge highlighting, even dry brushing. I was forced to paint the base out of turn as too much Vallejo Beige burped out of my tube and on to my Wet Palette.
His two companions are even a lower priority and will be finished at a more leisurely pace. With all the time I’ve been spending on test models and Warhammer Fantasy Battle models I’m going to be really sweating the next 10 days or so to get my final five miniatures finished for my Astronomi-con Vancouver army. I’ve pretty much given up on even attempting a new Greater Daemon. George will just have to get dusted off.
The sorcerer got all the extra effort because I thought it would look cool and I wanted to do something different than the Nurgle and Khorne models I’d been painting or even Goblins and WW1 models, something a little flashier. I even managed to make his grey robe look really cool by using a lot of layers, painting on extra folds, and the last trick was painting in low lights with black or a really dark grey in some parts.
The green armour involved going from the darkest green in my collection to a custom blended almost sea foam looking colour made from Emerald Green and Green Grey as detailed previously.
I actually drybrushed the fur. I first wetbrushed on Beastial Brown, two coats. Then I used Badaab Black wash in the darkest recesses and Devlan Mud over much of the fir. This left it a bit too shiny, but several drybrushes later it was mostly gone. I did a drybrush of Snakebite Leather, then Bubonic Brown, then I mixed up a vaguely orange colour using the Foundation Orange, Tau Sept Ocher, and Beige. I took a photo of some of the individual colours.
Next I painted the finicky details, but first I had to fix a tiny bit of the grey robe, where my drybrushing wasn’t perfect. The two pouches used some of the Reaper Master Series paints I bought. I eventually mixed in some Vallejo Beige to that and slowly built up to almost pure beige. I also used my favourite GW Wash Gryphonne Sepia. I also used it on the scroll. The scroll started out as the Foundation Yellow, mixed in Beige with that to highlight it. I also used an old Yellow Glaze to age it, a technique I rarely use, but an effective one. I think I mixed some white in with the beige to do the final highlight, plus maybe more yellow glaze.
With those details out of the way I planned to paint the sword and go to bed. Alas I splurted out way to much Beige on my Wet Palette. The bottle was gummed up some and squeezing it more is less effective then poking a hole in it. With all the beige I had to do all the skulls on the three models I was working on. The Bloodletter didn’t need much beige, but the Bezerker and this guy used a lot. I put several coats on, right over the black. This is not the most effective technique, I prefer to paint the skulls brown first, generally Snakebite Leather.
After getting them pretty beige, it was time for a custom wash made from water, Rust Brown Ink, and Plasma Red Ink. After that more beige and eventually I dry brushed on some white. This wasn’t terribly effective and I painted white highlights on the Bezerker’s skulls. The skulls on the old OOP plastic bezerker lack a little detail so I painted extra on them, using lowlights of wash, black paint, even Badaab Black wash in some parts. I also used the Yellow Glaze technique on the skulls on the bezerker. I actually was able to get them looking pretty sharpe.
The skull base was also giving me problems, the paint kept rubbing off on the edges, plus I had to paint under the model, and darken in between the skulls, while simultaneously trying to lighten them. I eventually painted the eyeballs red. I used Badaab Black wash at the end to darken between the skulls, which necessitated more beige highlights and another go at drybrushing white. I realized I needed a new pot of Skull White, so the skulls are mostly beige.
With that complete it was so bedtime. I painted fairly late into the night. The next morning I didn’t get up that early, but I did get up, photograph the sorcerer, and even cleaned his blade up a bit and gave it a fresh coat of black. I also got out a fresh sheet of parchment for my P3 Wet Palette. The first colour I painted the blade was an old Deadly Nightshade. I have all these old blues that I’ve acquired but rarely use. So whenever I do paint blue I usually end up with a custom unique shade. I also bought that extreme blue the day before which I planned to try out.
I slowly blended various blues together and painted on edge highlights until I got almost to pure Vallejo Sky Blue. It might be Deep Sky Blue, I’m away from my paints right now so I can’t check. At this stage I mixed up some old GW Blue Wash with a bunch of water to make kinda a DIY glaze. After that dried I took a better picture. I then painted on more highlights, but I also painted in some low lights or a reverse gradient back towards the Deadly Nightshade, the wet palette allowed me to do this pretty easily and I had a brand new 8/0 brush I got at Deserres at some point which was the bees knees.
Then it was only a matter of trying to get the best effect I could, using my blues, my glaze, and eventually mixing in a little white to the sky blue. I also added more highlights to the back of the blade and again painted on details that weren’t necessarily there. It wasn’t my best magical sword, but it had to do I’ve spent too much time on these models. I got the next three models in my queue and I’ll slowly finish the fine details on the Bloodletter and Bezerker.
Today is a nice day, I biked and got two more ‘0’ brushes from Deserres. I also got some Skull White paint from Strategies. I even had a phone conversation with someone who could be my future boss. Tonight I will paint some more and Saturday too, but I also will keep applying to jobs, I seem to have found a number I’m a good fit for, so perhaps I soon will no longer be unemployed and updates to this blog will be a little less frequent and lot less lengthy.
Welcome back boring text fans, where once again I make another movement tray for the square base game I play ever 5 or 6 years. This is the first of two movement trays I will be making this week. This one was to be the simplest, but even simple projects can go wrong if you’re not careful or it is late at night…
For this week’s Mighty Empires campaign I have to use mercenaries, this means after slaving to get a 1500 point Nurgle Daemon army on the table I must change it. This wasn’t the end of the world, but it did mean I’d be devoting a lot more time to painting Warhammer Fantasy Battle stuff than I had planned this week. I decided to make the new movement tray for the Plaguebearers out of sheet styrene as it is nice to work with, but I liked the sides of the balsa tray I made, so it was to have a balsa wood rim. That’s right a hybrid.
This time I got out five 25mm square bases and even wrote the measurements down on my painting table. Due to army list changes and a slight under performance of my army last week, this week’s army features a unit of 30 Plaguebearers, still with the two magic banners, but no longer in Horde formation. I decided I wanted more depth and less frontage. This meant the interior size of the movement tray was to be 12.5 cm by 15 cm. I allowed for a tiny bit of extra space and 4mm for the three edges. I even wrote the dimension right on the tray after I was done scoring the edges.
Just like last time I put balsa wood along the front. I measured twice and cut once. Then I put balsa wood along the width, cut two matching lengths and started gluing and clamping the sides to the sheet styrene. When it was all clamped I got out my five bases and quickly realized that after trimming the side to the correct width I’d left the movement tray facing the wrong way, what I had made was a 15 cm by 12.5 cm movement tray or 6 models wide and 5 rows deep. This was a bit embarrassing but a good lesson. I removed the clamps from one side, rotated the tray, measured another piece of balsa wood, glued and clamped it.
I got out the five plastic bases and it was a good fit. Six models wide was a tight fit, and wasn’t what I wanted, I think for the Plaguebearers to win combats they need to grind down the opposition. With only one attack base and not particularly great WS or Str what won combats for them last week were the two standardbearers, the magic banner(s), and early on the +3 rank bonus was nice. Later on they still won, but it was lucky, keeping a rank bonus or two later into the game would have helped them I think. In this formation they have 10 wounds to give before they lose a rank bonus, same as when there was 40 of them and the extra points saved will hopefully allow the rest of the army to be more effective.
My mercenaries for the week consist of a Level 2 Night Goblin Shaman who I’ve dubbed Ickybob and in the great tradition of naming Ork regiments, his unit is Ickybob’s Boyz. This week that will be 50 Night Goblin Archers, but in the display case there are 55, 54 including Ickybob. There is a strict 25% max/min, or at least that is my understanding of mandatory mercenaries week, so I have exactly 375 points of Night Goblins in my 1500 point army. 50 Archers, 5 ranks of ten right? Well since I plan to magnetize the goblins and their movement trays, I don’t want to make two trays per unit. Ickybob’s Boyz will rank up 11 wide and still five rows deep. I’m really looking forward to seeing if the Level 2 sorcerer makes a difference, the best I can do magic wise at 1500 points and still have Harold of Nurgle leading the Neatherworldly Mathematicians is a Level 2 and a Level 1 which is what I’ll try this week. I may go with a single Level 2 the week after it depends on if I win my game and if I make any gold in the campaign, plus of course my ability to complete miniature paint jobs.
Well that is more than enough for tonight and today. Hopefully tomorrow starts better as I really do need to find a job.
Welcome back to the part of the Internet where random purple text and owning a domain called BloodOfKittens is not considered cool, where once again we will try to focus on the miniature painting hobby specifically how to give your minis that extra special base. Hobbyists with Internet access and a credit card are spoiled these days with specialty pre-made resin base manufactures. I’ve tried several and on my recent trip to Strategies Games and Hobbies on Main Street in Vancouver, I picked up some square bases covered in skulls manufactured by Micro Art Studio and Reaper Miniatures. I couldn’t find any cool cavalry bases (or 25mm by 50mm outside of GW land), so I was stuck with making one somehow.
Now I’d read online of the miracle basing product known to the rest of the world as cork tile. Basically they are a form of flooring for homes, I found some excess thin cork at Urban Source, also on Main Street in Vancouver, which was 50 cents a piece. You can use this cork to make bases, or rubble, or even buildings for your miniature wargaming needs.
First you need to cut out a piece of cork about the size of your base. It can be a bit bigger on the front and the sides, but for ranking up not too big. I don’t really plan to rank this model. After you cut the basic shape you just randomly bust off, or pinch off, little bits of cork around the edges until you end up with an irregular shape, that fits basically on top of your plastic GW cavalry base.
Once you have a suitable shape, you get out your white glue, in my case Weldbond brand and you coat the cork with it on one side. You then position the cork on top of the plastic base and clamp it tight. Now you really need to give the glue time to dry, that is why I started with that part of my basing task.
Next I started cleaning up the bits and pieces that make up an old Chaos Sorcerer, an old Steed of Slaneesh with Daemonette rider, and an old Fiend of Slaneesh. I used a file and in some cases an exacto knife. The Steed did not have a tab, but may have had one originally, I got the model in a trade of sorts in about 1996, maybe be a bit after. I filed down the feet so I’d have a nice flat surface to work with. I test fit the legs and put weight on the back to see which position would be most solid. Then I put super glue in the molded holes and glued both legs at once and let it sit. It stands upright as you can see in some of the photos, this should make mounting it to the base easier.
After that I glued the rider together. I twisted the upper torso around quite a bit, not to be dramatic, but because that was how the model fit together tightest. You can do a certain amount of filing and adjusting, but sometimes you just have to go with whatever pose works best. Finally I glued the lower jaw to the head and let the Steed sit on my hobby table in three separate pieces, four if you count the base.
The sorcerer was going to be the easiest, but still might provide a lesson in mounting models to resin bases. That is right I’m using pre-cast skull bases that I bought in a blister. I clipped off almost the entire tab on the sorcerer. When mounting metal models to resin bases it is best to leave a small spike of metal jutting out from the bottom of the model. I didn’t take the best photo at this stage but I was busying working away and all these pictures were just quick snaps with my iPhone. After filing the the tab as level as possible I then test fit it on all five skull bases in the blister. I found the one that seemed to work best with this model and I painted a dab of white paint on the metal spike. Then I again test fit it, now there is a little glob of white paint on the base where the spike should go. You then drill this out with your pin vise.
Then you test fit the model again and assuming all is well glue the bottom of the model and the spike to the base.
Setting aside the sorcerer I turned to perhaps the most problematic of the three models, the circa 1995 Marauder Fiend of Slaneesh. I gave this model a good filing and test fit the various pieces. The main torso is in two pieces and the base I bought for it is solid metal. The first thing I did actually was trace out a 40mm by 40mm square of sheet styrene. I scored it and broke it off like it says to do on the packaging. Then I glued that to the bottom of the Reaper skull base which I’d also cleaned with a file and exacto knife.
If you use super glue like I did you only get one chance to do this. If it is a little off you can just file and cut off the white styrene that sticks out. Even before I opened the blister I’d decided to do this, I thought the model would slide better on the table and it added a little bit more height to the small Fiend of Slaneesh. Turns out the base is partially hollow, I don’t think the sheet styrene was absolutely necessary, but I had it at hand and it does slide nice on my hobby table.
After basing the base I decided to trim off the tabs from the two halves of the Fiend torso. I had already decided it was best to get the torso together before trying to base it. I left a single spike on one leg and filed the rest flat. It actually fit quite well on the base with three legs supporting it upright. I’ve gotten ahead of myself, old multi-part metal models are often notoriously difficult to get a good fit. This model wasn’t bad, I didn’t get out greenstuff, but I did file it a lot before and after I super glued it together.
With the model together and an optimal position on the base determined, it was time again for a dab of white glue and the pin vise. I didn’t drill into the styrene, the base is plenty think enough to accommodate the spike. Again I put super glue on all four paws and the spike and set it down on the base. I held it together for 30 seconds or whatever then got out the arms. I test fitted them and though the pose might not be the best, again I went with the tightest fit. One arm fit better than the other so I did yet more filing. At some point the model came partially unglued from the base, so more super glue to the rescue.
With the arms on the model, it was time for the head. This had lots of surface to glue to, but not the best fit. I may get out the green stuff for this, but I might just go with it. It’ll likely never be an award winning model but I still think I can make it look cool. I dubbed it “Retro Demon” and it will get a suitably disco paint job.
I flipped over the cork base and could still see white glue. White glue, the brands I prefer anyway dries clear, that is how you know it has set. So it was time for lunch and a blog post, not exactly in that order, but I’m getting hungrier as I type. Later tonight I may finish off the cork base and the Steed of Slaneesh which is the most instructive half of this little project, then it is primer and back to brush work for me. Though before that I may build a couple of movement trays and there is also 54 Night Goblins that need to have their bases finished. They’ll get less elaborate bases to be sure. I have a lot of work to do in order to play in the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires campaign.
Apparently one of the tutorials I’ve written has been added to the From the Warp tutorial section which I link to from my Painting Advice page but not in this blog’s sidebar. I’ll have to fix that. While looking for my name in lights so to speak and eating my sandwich, I discovered this tutorial on using cork in basing so you can see where I’m going. I tried test fitting the Steed just now, it’ll work but I’m not sure whether pinning is necessary, I was going to and I think it is for the best…
Although I decided to start a dedicated hobby blog, I also decided not to import all my older hobby related postings from my personal blog into WordPress.com, instead I give you this top 10 list for the benefit of anyone stumbling upon my work for the first time. Greatest hits particularly in the top ten format are popular with websurfers so read on McDuff: