Posts Tagged ‘Vallejo’

So today hasn’t been the best day for hobby progress.  I slept in, but I did go to Richmond and Imperial Hobbies to buy some more paint and stuff.  Last night while I couldn’t sleep I finally made an actual army list for Waaagh Musk 40K.  This is my old Space Ork army from Rogue Trader and 2nd Edition.  With the exception of painting two Gorka Morka gangs, I haven’t used any of those figs for years.

More tools of the trade

More tools of the trade

When the last codex was rumored to be coming out I started to think what it would take to get my army back on the table.  I made plans, I bought stuff. I never made an army list though I did realize that even with just the painted and partially painted stuff I have a full Force Org chart worth of stuff.  Of course a lot of my models are illegal or at least not quite right.  A lot of heavy weapons will need to be swapped, vehicles will need to be modified, new HQ will be in order, but the actual amount of work is less than the Servants of Decay and it requires negligible special orders and no major purchases, maybe three kits and a single blister would be enough.

Most everything in the codex I have an OOP version of with the exception of the battle wagon and trukks.  My trukk has a skorcha so the plan is to convert it into a War Trak Skorcha.  I liked my War Traks and Skorchas back in the day and in Gorka Morka so lots of flamer templates will be in order.  I also want to try some of the new kits and the Loota rules seem good so the only new squads will be Lootas/Burnas.  Everything else is either painted or partially painted.  Here is my first 1500 point list I’ll be working towards, but I already think I’d change it up a bit if I took it to Astronomi-con:

  • HQ: Big Mek with Shock Attack Gun 110 points
  • HQ: Big Mek with Burna on Warbike 98 points
  • EL: 7 X Lootas, Mek, Grot Oiler 110 points
  • FA: 4 x Warbikes with a Nob 140 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 105 points
  • TR: Deff Dread 100 points
  • TR: 12 X Blood Axes with Shootas and Nob 97 points
  • HS: Looted Rhino with Skorcha 95 points
  • TR: 12 X Bad Moons with Nob and Trukk 157 points
  • HS: Looted Wagon with Boom Gun, ie Gobsmasha 130 points
  • HS: Battle Wagon with Killa Kannon 185 points
  • EL: 5 X Burna Boys with Mek 80 points
  • FA: 2 X Skorchas, one with Grot Riggas 85 points

If you read that and said it wouldn’t score very well in Astronomi-con Army Comp, you’re over thinking things.  This is an army that hasn’t been used in a decade that was cobbled together under way different rules and will be kitbashed into legality.  When I learned I could use dreads as troops if I took Big Meks I was all over that, but I’d probably be fine with one less Mek, maybe even just a simple Big Mek on foot would be best, then I could afford more Warbikes, Burna Boyz, Skorchas, possibly even a Nobz Mob in a Battle Wagon.  I might do that all sometime down the road, but the official target army list for Waaagh Musk is listed above and detailed over on the Waaagh.

I still plan to do the Servants of Decay army.  I’ll be painting another test figure for it over grey primer someday soon.  However as someone who is still unemployed, though I did apply to at least three new jobs today, placing a large order to Forgeworld is a ways off.  I need some Forgeworld goodies for my Chaos Spacemarines, or at least I’d like a Rhino conversion kit and the Bezerker Terminator bits.  Those would figure into my 2011 Astro-Van army.  I need a lot of stuff for the Servants of Decay hundreds of dollars worth of stuff.  I could paint 100 orks and not have to buy a model, but to field the army listed above will require a few new kits and maybe some bitz too.

WIP Gretchin

WIP Gretchin

I through some more paint on the Gretchin, the metal bitz are done and I started on some blue fabric type tests.  I used the Foundation Blue then the new GW Wash as I figured that is what most people would do.  I later highlighted with an old pot of Lightning Blue.  I discovered I like painting Brazen Brass way better over Black than over Grey, even after washing it.  Painting Silver over Grey or Gunmetal is no problems.  One of the paints I bought today is the darkest Vallejo metallic I could find.  I also bought some Reaper Master Series paint, well one pot, and some Water Effects which I’ll use on my terrain tiles, which I hope to resume later this month.

Stay tuned for lots more painting, but I really hope I get a job soon and have to fight harder for hobby and blogging time.  I also hope I can get my sleep schedule normalized, we’ll see what the latest blood test reveals.

Although I seem to be known as a Nurgle guy, my first army was Orks in Warhammer 40,000 during the legendary Rogue Trader era.  Why? Because no one played orks in our group and they forced me to.  I never won a single game during the Rogue Trader era.  Things didn’t get that much better in 2nd Edition due to infiltrating Assassins with virus grenades or just the virus outbreak strategy card.  There was a serious lack of play testing involved back then.

My friends made me assemble more models just so they could kill more models.  That’s why my fantasy army sat undone but assembled for years.  Me, I generally only assemble models I plan to paint. So pretty much any assembled but un-primed models in my household were put together at the urging and with the aid of Arden or Kathy or perhaps Paul…  I don’t know what the obsession with bigger games is.  I’m content to play 1500 points, in fact smaller games require you to make harder decisions when choosing your army list.

But that is not what this post is about. I’ve slowly been working through my massive collection of single pose plastic goblins, well massive for me.  However I have almost as many single pose Goffs and Gretchin.  In fact it is these models and a lot of losses to Eldar and Space Marines that moved me towards Nurgle.  Now my Nurgle miniature collection is almost painted out and I’m doing other Chaos Powers, Orks and Goblins are still on my long term “ta do list”.  I regular stop in at the Waaagh forums.  I’ve also starting doing test figures and what better models to test paints on then, 2nd Edition Gretchin. Servant of Decay from behind

The black basecoated one was done up for some contest on the Waaagh that I didn’t have time for.  The first grey one, was a test of Krylon Primer that went badly marring the face and the entire paint job.  The third Gretchin and the 2nd grey one, the one without the squig on the base, was also primed with Krylon Grey primer.  I discovered that Krylon Grey primer is the exact same shade of grey as Adeptus Battle Grey, or at least so close as to not matter.  This may be useful information to Imperial Guard players and will prompt me to paint another test Servant of Decay.

My original test figure for my Servants of Decay army was painted over a black base coat and used Foundry English Uniform Brown triad for the main uniform color.  Brown is a good army color and a good Nurgle color.  However the Nefarious fire are black with purple flames so purple and flames was always going to fit into my Servants of Decay scheme too, but I didn’t want black uniforms.  I was thinking grey uniforms… Now I think a plastic Goliath ganger will be painted up from a Krylon grey base coat and it will have grey clothing rather than brown…

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

Paints used in highlighting Gretchin

However the point of this post is to show off the three gretchin I’ve been chipping away at, each with it’s own skin color.  The black gretchin got the traditional Ork Flesh up to Bilious Green layer technique that has been used on greenskins since the Rogue Trader era.  I only used a single wash on this model and it was the new Thrakka Green.

The poorly primed gretchin got a Gretchin Green basecoat, a color I never use in painting ork flesh, followed by a Camo Green highlight.  Then the model was given two washes of Thrakka Green.  Next it received another Camo Green highlight as the bad priming job obscures a lot of detail so it is better to paint highlights than rely on gravity to add lowlights for this model.  Finally this model got Rotting Flesh and Vallejo Model Color Green Grey highlights.

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

Gretchin after 2 or 3 coats of paint

The third Gretchin is an experiment into the wash your way to victory or at least wash your way to a nice fleshtone.  John Blanche used brown paint and green wash to do some orks and that look has caught on some.  TastyTaste seems to think using Devlan Mud is evil, but have you ever seen a model painted by TastyTaste? I haven’t.  I’m pretty sure he’s not overly burdened by Golden Demons if you know what I mean.

Letting washes dry

Letting washes dry

People on the Waaagh forums have gotten good results using the new GW washes and various colors you wouldn’t associate with painting green skin.  I took a stab at it and started with Dheneb Stone for my basecoat over the grey.  This didn’t cover so well or look quite right so I immediately followed that with a quick highlight of Vallejo Model Color Beige.  Then I got more on script and did a fairly heavy wash of Devlan Mud and after drying time, two fairly heavy washes of Thrakka Green.

I’m not sure how much time this really saves when you factor in drying time, but if you’re painting 40 Gretchin it probably does save some time.  It is also a bit messy so doing the skin first then fixing the areas that are just primer is easier than doing the skin later and fixing more painted portions of the model.

It looked OK after three washes and just a single highlight, but I was highlighting the other models so I gave it a Green Grey highlight which fixed things some.  Maybe the highlights are less realistic, but they look better especially at arms length.  One thing about this Dheneb Stone and Beige technique is it leaves the eyeballs and teeth looking decent, where as the dark green traditional method you definitely have to work on the teeth and eyes more to get them to look right.  I’m still not sold on painting over grey, tomorrow I will try out red, metallic, and some other common colors.

Almost finished green skin

Almost finished green skin

Stay tuned…

I’m actually quite worried I won’t get my 2010 Astronomi-con Vancouver army painted in time.  I’ve decided I’m only 5 mini’s away from being done, but besides these three rank and file models I have to paint both my HQ choices.  I was going to paint a Greater Daemon too, but now I’ve realized I’ll never get it done.  If you want to see what it will eventually look like, just go back in time and see the purple Bloodletter I’ve been painting…

Models painted Black and Tin Bitz

Models painted Black and Tin Bitz

As for the three models I’ve been working on tonight, I haven’t made much progress.  After finishing the Chaos Sorcerer for the Mighty Empires Campaign at Strategies, I ran some errands and applied to a few jobs.  It also got a lot hotter.  I slept in and had to delay painting until later into the evening.  I even bought some beer to try and fight the heat.  I really should get a fan.  I just sit in my apartment and sweat.  I have to go to the washroom and wipe the sweat from my forehead.

All these models are ‘kit bashed’.  They are made of various plastic, metal, and resin bits that I’ve acquired over the years.  I’m actually running out of in-print backpacks and I think chaos space marine legs.  I have extra torsos because I use metal and resin ones, but legs I’ve mostly used up.  I’ll have to buy another box of rank and file CSM someday.

Highlighted Black Power Armour

Highlighted Black Power Armour

I’ve actually decided to change things up.  Even after painting well over 100 Chaos Space Marines I’m still trying to get it down.  By getting it down, I mean paint more efficiently.  Give me 60 hours and I’ll paint you a really nice model.  But if your goal is to paint an entire 1500 point army, especially to a high standard you have to be smart about it.  I’ve moved to the cult of the black primer, but I’m trying to give grey a shot for some models.  I seem to spend a lot of time painting black into recesses after spraying my models with Chaos Black.  I think I may give Army Painter Primer or Testors or something a try.

I swear the models are never perfectly cleaned and primed no matter how much effort I put into them.

The first thing I did was paint the armour trim Tin Bitz.  All three of these models will have different coloured power armour as they are in three different squads.  Two of them are Plaguemarines and one is a Chosen of Chaos.  I decided to paint the trim first as it defines the model.  It is something I’ve been experimenting with while painting test Bezerkers.  The trim outlines the model which helps in painting the rest and in photographing.

Innis and Gunn Beer

Innis and Gunn Beer

I painted the Chosen first as it has Black Power Armour which is actually easy to highlight if you follow my system.  I spent a lot of time working on an efficient method of highlighting black.  I also leave room for the Purple Flames which are the signature feature of the Nefarious Fire Chaos Space Marine Warband.  To highlight black after much experimentation I use Foundry Triad #34 Charcoal Black.  I apply the paint in the following order Shade, Charcoal Black, Highlight, Shade.  I use the second layer of Shade to shape the highlights.  Then I give them a little Badaab Black wash to darken and blend the highlights.  Then I use the Highlight (34C) again and if I want the model to pop, I use a lighter grey.  This time I used the new light grey I bought which is Vallejo Sky Grey.  It is actually a bit too light, but any lighter grey will serve.

I’ve gotten more selective in what I highlight.  You have to do this if you’re trying to paint entire armies and squads, especially for the square based game.  The most important parts of a model are the face, hands, and the weapon.  I left the weapons black as they will mostly be a silver metallic colour, not Tin Bitz or Brass.  The hands I did highlight up to Sky Grey but this model has no helmet, he’ll get a blue tinged flesh like most of my CSM.

It is almost midnight and I’m on to my third beer.  So this is the end for the evening.  Tomorrow I have to get up earlier walk to Strategies and try to win my first game of Warhammer 8th Edition.  I don’t fancy my chances. I will be trying to get these three models done quickly to maximize the time I have for my HQ choices.

Whenever non-hobby people see my models they always ask what size brush I used so since I’ve had to buy some new brushes and although I’m not super picky, all brushes are not created equal, here are the brushes I’m using lately.  Most of them were bought at Deserres.

Tools of the Trade

Tools of the Trade

So I’d always planned on doing the Bloodletter’s sword green and the armour of the sorcerer green, so I once again cooked up a one of kind or in this case a two of a kind colour that looks like it glows.  The key to the glowing effect is to go very bright/light with the highlights and start very dark with the lowlights.  Washes and glazes are also essential to my technique.  I’m not sure I can make it work with any colour but it works with green and blue, I generally use it on power weapons or magic weapons.  Purple can work too, but you have to highlight up to pink and that scares some people.

Bloodletter with Green Hellblade

Bloodletter with Green Hellblade

To get the effect seen here I had a black base coat.  I then painted Orkhide Shade over it.  The new GW Foundation darkest green.  Then I really needed an inbetween shade, but I didn’t have one so I mixed Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Game Colour Sick Green.  Then I think I did a pure Sick Green highlight, I can’t remember exactly it was yesterday.  To keep the colour dark and scary I mixed up a wash of about 5 parts water, 2 parts old GW Green Wash, and 1 part Black Ink.  Basically a much darker green wash, but still thinned so it would flow into the recesses.

After that dried I got out Sick Green again and starting working up the highlights.  I didn’t really have a good inbetween shade, so I mixed in an old GW Jade Green.  With the mixed colour and then pure Jade Green painted on as a highlight I then did a second wash.  This time a thinned down Waaagh Green Ink which is an extremely old GW/Citadel product.  When that was dry I started highlighting Jade Green again, but I also wanted to darken a few spots so I used the new GW Green Wash just in a few spots.

Sorcerer with green armour

Sorcerer with green armour

Then more Jade Green and the first green glaze.  GW used to make them, they were under appreciated by their clientele I wish I had them all, but I only have a few, they have red lids.  Vallejo makes some glazes, I saw them at Imperial Hobbies today.  After some Jade Green and green glaze I wanted to go more extreme so I got out this bottle of Green Grey Vallejo Model Colour #971.  I mixed this with the Jade Green on my P3 Wet Palette.  I then painted this pale highlight on.  Then another green glaze then an even paler extreme highlight was done and it was off to my bedroom to take the photos.

As I mentioned I went to Imperial Hobbies today and bought some more paint and a couple of brushes.  The brushes were disappointing but they were cheap.  Tomorrow I will go and buy some Deserres brushes that I’ve gotten used to, they hold their point pretty good and come in all sorts of sizes.  I also bought some very bright or light colours which I’ll use on the Tzeentch and Slaneesh models I seem to be doing up, but mainly they are for the future.  The Mr. Color Steel and the Flat Green will get used sooner, as might the Sky Grey.

The Gale Force 9 flock I bought the day before to use on the Goblins and other bases going forward.  I’m trying to use a variety of material, instead of just sand all the time.

More Hobby Supplies

More Hobby Supplies

Today I’ve done a lot of painting, I got up early and I kept at it for most of the day. I’m working on three different chaos models. The first is my second test bezerker, the second is an old OOP Bloodletter which I’m painting up to be a generic lesser daemon, but mainly I’m practicing my dark purple skin tone technique, the final model is another old chaos model, this one is still in print, non-the-less mine is lead and will serve as a Herald of Tzeentch come Sunday at Strategies.

Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker

Mostly finished Khorne Bezerker

What I really should be working on is my Astronomi-con Vancouver army, but their is a method to my madness. The Khorne Bezerker is serving as a test model for my Forgeworld Khorne Terminator Lord conversion. The Bloodletter is a test model for a bigger daemon. Even the sorcerer could be argued that it is a test model, as I need to get that flashy look for my Slaneesh Sorcerer I’ll take to the tournament.

Well with all the time I put in, I could have put in even more, and none of the models are finished. I had hoped to start on three other models today, but tomorrow will do. I did a lot of work on the Bezerker’s red armour, the Bloodletter’s purple skin, and the sorcerer’s grey robe.

The model I’ve done the least on since the last blog post is the Bezerker.  I finished the purple flames using the Foundry Royal Purple Triad pretty much as they intended.  I’ve been having brush troubles today.  Several brushes were retired and I couldn’t find a good ‘0’ or ’00’.  I’ve been focusing on speed and buying and using bigger brushes, that now when I want to paint flames or fine highlights my tools are letting me down.  Tomorrow I will invest in some new brushes.  I’m tempted to go to Imperial Hobbies because a few gabs have appeared in my paint collection.  Specifically I need a green between Orkhide Shade and say VMC Sick Green.  I ended up making one…

Building up Purple and Grey Highlights

Building up Purple and Grey Highlights

So the greens on the Bezerker are for his seems or tubes or whatever.  I painted them Orkhide Shade then tried to go right to Sick Green but it ended up looking way too Christmas tree-ish.  I then mixed a darker green for the other models.  I also had troubles getting the green in the tiny gaps without damaging my red or grey highlights.  The other thing I did on the Bezerker was it’s ‘silver’ metallic stuff.  I didn’t use silver, but rather GW’s Chainmail.  This was way too shiny, so another dark gunmetal colour would be nice too.  I can darken Chainmail with Badaab Black and Devlan Mud wash but there is always a risk of spillage or seepage, so I think I’d prefer an even simpler metal.  I have Boltgun Metal but I think something even darker than that would find many uses in my painting.

Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze

Royal Purple Triad plus a Purple Glaze

The Bloodletter got his skin finished off.  It came out pretty well, but eventually I just had to say enough because I have bigger models to work on and I need to get them done within two weeks.  Thankfully I’m unemployed… The skin was painted GW’s Liche Purple twice.  I let black come through, I missed painting a little bit of stuff on one shoulder, I thought it was a necklace but it was his collar bone.  After that I think I did the first part of Foundry’s Royal Purple Triad, but perhaps before that a custom dark purple wash.  Then I worked up the Royal Purple Triad followed by a thinned old purple wash.  Then it was basically Royal Purple Triad Highlight along with some glazes.  I might go slightly pinker maybe to Warlock Purple on the big fella, we’ll see how it looks and how much time it takes.

I also did some striations.  Yet another place where I needed a good sharp point. I actually have some really tiny brushes, but I need zeros and double zeros too.

An extremely highlighted grey robe

An extremely highlighted grey robe

The Sorcerer got a pretty surreal grey robe.  I didn’t use that many different greys, basically just GW ones, two Foundation ones, and one regular one.  In fact I chucked out a light grey, which doing some infantory I think I need four colours and I’m going to try non-GW ones, preferably in the dropper style bottles.  Sometimes they come out too much, but generally they are pretty easy to work with, for super common colours I like the flip tops like black and white or metallics which I keep out of my P3 Wet Palette.

The robe got a wash of Badaab Black but that didn’t go as well as I would like so future washes were custom made by me out of old Black GW Wash.  I did two, one thinned and one really thinned.  I also built up the highlights to Astronomicon Grey, but then I went even higher mixing in some white.  I also painted in lowlights.  This was partly to get rid of unwanted shine, but mainly as it looked good.  I got the aforementioned thin brush and painted black lines into folds.  I also painted on more folds than were sculpted using various greys.  This is a technique I use on skin too, such as the striations.

Building up Green highlights

Building up Green highlights

After I was satisfied with the robe I touched up the black and waited until the Bezerker was ready to do green.  I wanted a different green, working towards an old pot of GW Jade Green, possibly going even brighter.  I started off with Orkhide Shade, leaving some black showing on all three models.  Then I did a mix of Orkhide Shade and Vallejo Model Colour Sick Green.  Finally pure Sick Green was applied then a custom wash made from an old GW Ork Flesh Wash mixed with a tad of Shadow Black Ink.

Then I deemed them good enough for tonight and tomorrow I will finish them mostly and try harder to find a job.  I might go out tomorrow night, so I don’t think I’ll put in as many hours painting, but I’m in the home stretch for all three models, so it will be time to work on three different Chaos Space Marines.

Cloth after the black wash

Cloth after the black wash

While making the magnetic movement tray for a unit of old Night Goblin archers that I thought was 55 strong, 5 rows of 11.  I discovered that it was only 50 strong, well 49 including the hero.  It was late at night and I had been cutting 20mm squares of magnetic material into the wee hours, so I decided rather than just borrow one goblin from another unit for the game I was planning to play on Sunday, I’d dig out some new plastic Night Goblin archers I got off eBay and paint them up.

I’m a slow painter, so painting five models, even rank and file Night Goblins in basically one day, which was the task ahead of me, was going to take effort.  I would not be able to go at a leisurely pace, nor would I have lots of time for layered washes or trying out new stuff.  I began cleaning the models and though I learned later I didn’t too a perfect job, I had them cleaned and on magnetic bases by 1:38 AM.

Liche Purple Basecoat

Liche Purple Basecoat

Despite staying up late the night before I couldn’t sleep and got out of bed at quarter to six.  No I didn’t start painting then, but I did update this blog and probably give them there first coat of Chaos Black Spray primer.  I had to take care of my daily job search as well as buy groceries, so about 10 AM I had to get serious about painting these models.

I did two blasts of GW Black spray paint, which unlike all my recent Plaguebearers covered pretty good.  I did need to put on some more black here and there.  After I had a good black it was time to highlight it.  I used my top secret black highlighting recipe of Foundry Black Triad number 34.  After quickly putting on B & C from the triad I did a wash of Badab Black.  Then I did a slight re-highlight of 34C.

Applying purple flames

Applying purple flames

That’s it.  Bam! On to the purple.

For the purple I used my new dark purple recipe which consists of Liche Purple highlighted with the entire Foundry Royal Purple Triad, number 19 for the numerically superior.  That was it, even the flames were free-handed in one go.  No washes in this purple recipe.  I did take my second break during this phase.

The next phase was the most stressful, painting a face inside the hoods which I’d already highlighted.  This was a bit unnerving, but I never had to redo any purple or black highlights.  The only time I touched up one dot of purple, was doing one eyeball later on.

Close up of purple flames

Close up of purple flames

I didn’t use the exact green recipe I used on the others.  I probably went further than I needed to, but Goblins have characterful faces and getting the green to pop is the key to painting them.  I used Vallejo Sick Green, Game Colour 29 as my base.  Then I used a less than great pot of GW Goblin Green.  Things were looking OK, but I decided to paint GW Thraka Green wash into the darker recesses of the face and pretty much all over the hands and forearms.

I then had to build back up my highlights so I used Vallejo Game Colour Goblin Green.  This is only slightly lighter than GW’s Goblin Green if any different at all.  Although this was sound blending and colour progression, it wasn’t a big difference maker and was probably a poor choice given my goal of speed.  Then I got serious about highlighting the skin, I used a medium aged octagon pot of GW’s Striking Scorpion Green.  Finally highlights were with a round pot, that is starting to really show it’s age of, Bilious Green.  That pot was one of the first ten or if not ten, twenty I ever bought.  It came in I think the Monster Paint Set.

2 coats of green paint and a wash

2 coats of green paint and a wash

I think I took a break during the greens, I know I took a WIP photo.  The model was basically done, the big three of tunic, trim, and flesh were finished.  So I decided to ‘stick it to the man’ and not highlight the brown.  I quickly put brown over the leather straps, quiver, and arrows and practically ran down the hall to photograph them thinking I was done and it was time for dinner.

I think it was about 5pm.  As I was uploading the photos to my computer from my iPhone I remember, “Oi I didn’t paint the eyes!”.  Turns out I didn’t paint the mouths either.  These are important elements especially for Night Goblins.

This can be a tricky phase as you can ruin or at least damage careful highlights.  I dotted the eyes white, then Sunburst Yellow, another epically old pot, but not as old as the one beside it which will remain nameless (Badmoon Yellow from the Ork VS Eldar paint set).  That was it for the eyes.

Greenskin is good to go

Greenskin is good to go

The mouths I did a bit differently than usual.  I got out the paint colour I’m making famous, Reaper Master Series Clotted Red and painted the entire interior of the mouth with it.  I then got out Vallejo Beige and made sure it was subtle and painted the teeth.  The teeth on these models are like a carved pumpkin they go back as little triangles way into the back of the mouth.  This is not the norm for GW teeth and I wonder why it was done this way, probably something to do with lasers.

Anyway I think I took a WIP photo and despite being tired and hungry I did one more trick on the mouths.  I took a drop of water and some plasma red ink, mixed up a thin wash and filled the mouths with it.  I then leaned the models on their backs so it could colour the teeth and dry.  You have to wash that your wash doesn’t overflow.  If it does, quickly soak it up with a brush.

The false finish

The false finish

After laying on the couch listening to some blues, it was time to re-highlight the teeth.  It was necessary to touch up a lip here and there during the whole mouth painting process.  Highlights were done with Vallejo Beige and boring old Skull White.

Then I took a nap.  That’s right no dinner for me I was beat.

Much later I dragged my ass out of bed, photographed the models as best I could, typed up this here blog entry/tutorial and then gave the models a coal of Purity Seal.

Finally Finished Night Goblin

Finally Finished Night Goblin

Tomorrow I will base 54 Night Goblins and their magnetic movement tray, or die in the attempt.  Well maybe things aren’t that dire, it is just a game.  Damn mandatory mercenaries week in the Mighty Empires Campaign.

Five Franticly Painted Night Goblin Archers

Night Goblin Pose 1

Night Goblin Pose 2

Night Goblin Pose 3

So since my sleep schedule is totally screwed up due to loud neighbours and being unemployed, I put quite a lot of work into these Nurgle daemons today, probably should have gone to the gym or something.  Tomorrow I will go to the gym and of course look for a job.  I also will likely finish these three plaguebearers tomorrow which when varnished will give me 40 painted, enough for my full rank bonus horde for the Warhammer 8th Edition Mighty Empires Campaign at Strategies starting Sunday.

Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin

Highlighted Knarloc Green Skin

The first thing I did after taking water out of my wet palette was finish the Knarloc Green Plaguebearer and his little Nurgling buddy.  I used GW’s Knarloc Green, and three Vallejo greens: Sick, Goblin, and Green Grey.  I blended the paint on the wet palette and highlighted.  I had a problem with Sick being too much of a step but with some blending and fighting the constant tendency of the model to go ‘minty’ I eventually put enough little dibs and dabs so that he looked like someone whom extra time had been taken painting.  I also used a little tiny bit of Gryphonne Sepia wash at the very end to blend it to dark again.

With that complete I decided to do the bones next.  I decided on the bones as if some red gets on the bones it is OK, but if some bone gets on the guts you have to repaint it.  There are a couple of exposed bones on one plaguebearer and of course the one big horn on each model.  I change it up now and again, but basically I paint bones Snakebite Leather.  Bleached Bone or Vallejo Beige doesn’t cover black that great unless you gob it on, and you don’t want to do that.  So after painting the bones and skulls and horns Snakebite Leather I reached for the Vallejo Beige and put some of that on the wet palette.  I also got some GW Scorched Brown out too.  I used the dark brown to darken and to add little stripes or striations to the horns.  Then I put a very thin amount of beige on the horns.

Painting bone colour

Painting bone colour

Next I got out my newly discovered Reaper Master Series Clotted Red.  This was added to the wet palette.  I’d started a new piece of parchment and with considerably less water in the container, basically just a damp sponge.  I had all types of problems in Vancouver’s heat with the parchment drying out.  I still have a long way to go until I get the wet palette just right.  Anyway I put a fairly think layer of Clotted Red on all the things I wanted red.  Then I mixed up a bone wash, this is a fairly standard recipe for me of water and old GW Rust Brown Ink.  Some times I add a dab of red ink into the mix.  I paint this pretty much all over the bone color, though obviously you can leave some of the bone unwashed.

When that was all dry I painted more Vallejo Beige onto the bones in something of a drybrush but not totally, kinda half and half.  I did drybrush white onto the bones, but I also painted white on the tips and in thin lines.  I don’t like to drybrush but one thing that looks good and if you’re careful, drybrushing bones, horns, and skulls yields nice results.  Sometimes I don’t use white on my bones at all, this time since I’d invested so much time in the models I did.

Beginning Guts and Gore

Beginning Guts and Gore

Next I got out my new pot of GW Blood Red and painted it on the ‘guts’ as a highlight.  I’d used Beige and White to get reasonable exposed bones going.  Then I mixed up another custom wash, this one is two drops of water, two brushes of old GW Shadow Black Ink and two brushes worth of old GW Plasma Red Ink.  These like the Rust Brown Ink are in round pots with Citadel logos and black lids.

This takes a bit to dry so I likely took a break or touched up things.  Eventually I touched up some of the unpainted bits black and painted one eyeball white.  I fixed up the skull on the medallion with a little black ink at some point.  I had to touch up the green skin too as it rubbed off in one or two raised points.  They’re looking pretty good and my hands are sweating from typing all this out on my MacBook Pro.  Tomorrow they should get finished, I’ve dubbed them: Fleshy, Drabby, and Knarly.

3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers

3 Mostly painted Plaguebearers