The Great Rebasing Begins

Astute observers may remember I previously rebased my terminators and my Beasts of Nurgle…

Astute observers may remember I previously rebased my terminators and my Beasts of Nurgle, but for 9th Edition of Warhammer 40,000 I’ve decided to rebase if not my entire Diseased Sons army, then at least the models I’m most likely to use.

Due to Bill’s fascination with all things campaign we will be playing a crusade, for real this time, he means it. So I dutifully picked out 50 PL worth of stuff I basically own even if it isn’t armed perfectly let alone optimally. I threw in some cultists even though I haven’t painted a minimum squad size, I may have to run some partially painted ones depending on when our first game is. I also will rebase the 20 or so models needed to start the campaign that are clearly on the wrong base size for 9th Edition.

Set up my paints on a small dedicated desk

I actually started on this daunting task the other night, before and even while writing my previous blog post. I remember filing little tiny metal skulls I got from Black Cat Bases, but I also plan to raid the bitz box for bitz to scatter on bases. Going forward I’ll acquire more 32 mm and likely even some 40 mm resin bases. I have many 25 mm ones. So cultists may get some very nice bases, though perhaps not the first batch.

Because I’m old, I’ve got a lot of painted, unpainted, and even some models I’m repainting from the 90s. Some may be older still with sculpts dating back to the 80s but I first played Warhammer 40,000 in 1993 I think. I used to save models and bitz for future conversions, but now I just want to get a usable and hopefully fun to play army on the table top. I might convert a sorcerer in terminator armor, but to start the campaign I just plan to use McFly. Malignant Plaguecasters should be on a 32 mm base it appears, but most HQ is on a 40 mm base or bigger.

Last Friday I got a new iPhone, an iPhone 13 mini, but it was not a smooth transition and I still am trying to set it up perfectly, I may never get WeChat to work again. It seems to be trying to move all 21,000 photos I’ve ever taken on to it, which is not what I want Apple. One upside of a new iPhone is better quality pictures, I actually plan to rephotograph my army, starting with a few snaps every #ThrowbackThursday which starts tomorrow if you’re on the ‘Gram. But I’ve also noticed my header images are always dark. I use a program called GraphicConverter and have used it for many years. Apparently I am two versions behind. It has a lot of options, but I think something happens when I alter the canvas size that darkens the image, I also wonder if my WordPress theme is doing something weird, none of the other photos end up so dark.

Editing Photos of Miniatures

Just like I don’t know everything about 40K, I don’t know everything about editing images. I do have thirty bucks and I do support small independent developers and have done so for over twenty years, so I’m upgraded to GraphicsConverter 11 and using some new options replaced the featured image for this post. It’ll be too late for keener RSS feeds but it looks a bit better. With my lightbox, new iPhone and an actual Panasonic digital camera on a shelf beside me, there really is no excuse to keep taking crappy photos, other than I’m in a hurry. It is once again after midnight, that seems the only way I get updates done on my website sometime, sacrifice sleep, it isn’t like I have a social life anymore.

Stripping Paint Off Old Models

Before Pinesol

Oh well, people who don’t take the time to look around will think I’m a terrible painter or photographer. Also late last night I searched and found a few classic sculpts that I won’t paint right away, but want to tackle before I my eyesight gets worse. This includes the copy I bought used at Sentry Box of one of my favourite Nurgle Renegades. It was painted, but I stripped it using 1 part Pinesol and 3 parts water. I don’t know if that is the optimal ratio or product, but Pinesol is less harsh on plastic, the backpack may have gotten a little soft and one little nib may have broken off, but as you can see by the photos after about a 12 hour soak you can scrub most of the paint off with a toothbrush easily.

Model in Pinesol and water

I stripped a few orks, but I haven’t seen those models recently, maybe I didn’t strip them, I just sorted them for stripping, but repainting old Rogue Trader era models or early 2nd Edition models has little appeal. I’d rather rebase them and get them back on the table under the current rules. I’ve decided my demons can stay on square bases, they are all metal. I won’t be putting any more demons on square bases though. Bill never asks to play 2nd Edition 40K or 4th Edition WFB.

I’ll give it a go over with a metal pin next

We are very busy at work, so most days I take a nap when I finish working and I really want to get back into the habit of exercising, so my painting time is limited. I want to rebase and enhance the bases on my existing models, but most of the models I paint will be better than battle ready, but maybe not quite up to the standard I was capable of 20 years ago. I just don’t have the same motivation and work really is busy. Maybe in Q3 I’ll have more time.

If you have thoughts on the best ways to strip paint off old minis or how to rebase models for the current editions of Games Workshop games or even tips and tricks for photographing your miniatures and editing those photographs on you Mac, you can leave a comment below.

Author: Muskie

Making the Internet better since 1995.

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