Warcry at the Sentry Box

Apparently in addition to yet being able to paint, I still remember how to play miniature wargames as I went undefeated in Warcry at the Sentry Box last weekend…

Apparently in addition to yet being able to paint, I still remember how to play miniature wargames as I went undefeated in Warcry at the Sentry Box last weekend. That was one of the last gaming events in Alberta for a while as we are being strongly encouraged to stay home now due to the Coronavirus. I’ve been working from home since then, no gym, not supposed to go out except if necessary. I did a little painting, but I need my desk for my work laptop. Apparently I am an expert at T-SQL and SSRS now, at least for a few more weeks.

Winning at Warcry

Bill of course will say it was all luck, but the truth is it was not getting distracted by shiny newly painted models and focussing on completing the mission. When playing as goblins you are usually at a disadvantage because your guys are smaller and weaker than than the enemy in almost every case. The traditional goblin equalizer is cheating using wacky warmachines. There are no warmachines in Warcry. So how do goblins or Gloomspite Gitz win?Game One of Warcry

Are spreadsheets the answer?

Self proclaimed Internet experts seem to build spreadsheets, then film YouTube videos where they distill their wisdom. But how many hits on average you do against toughness three or toughness four doesn’t seem that important to me having actually played Warcry against random opponents. What seems important to me is:

  • High Movement
  • Key Initiative Roles
  • Outnumbering Your Opponent

Lots of Attacks = More Criticals

I played against the Iron Golems and the good guys. They didn’t have a lot of toughness three or even four models. They had a lot of higher toughness models that I often could only wound on a five or a six. Warcry follows GW tradition in that a one always misses and a six always hits, but in Warcry a six is a critical. So rolling more attacks is good and of course doing extra damage on the six is better. Gloomspite Gitz can use a triple to “Stab em Good” they can also use a double to “backstab”. I see no reason they can’t do both if they activate two models carefully positioned.

Squighopper intercepts an Ogre

Killing Isn’t Everything

Even with all those extra attacks you don’t actually need to kill anyone to win, this is where speed or maneuverability comes in. In both missions I played there were objectives, one game had six and one game had just one. In both cases I strategically chose to defend and use my superior numbers to grab objectives quickly. Even coming on late, Squighoppers which move ten whole inches, twenty if they double move are great. They also have more attacks than a Boingrot Bounder which as the biggest toughest model in your gang becomes a giant target, so don’t grab the treasure with him, use him as a decoy or feed him to some combat monster.

Sacrificial Goblins

I played Skaven mostly in Bloodbowl and was famous for my fall down defence. In the original Necromunda and my memories getting hazy but probably Mordheim too, your leader was more valuable than any other ganger and you had to worry about running away. In Warcry, games only last three turns in general and although valuable your leader is as expendable as is any other goblin. Obviously in a campaign your thinking will change as models gain skills but in a one off game, I sacrificed my more expensive models and my netter to try and slow up the bigger enemy models while I used lesser gobbos and my squig to grab the goods.Gloomspite Gitz Dagger and Hammer

Ranged Attacks are Useful

Bill says there are Twists that make them less useful and I know two attacks at strength three doesn’t seem like much, but I’d much rather shoot at an Ogre with bows than have to fight him in H2H. The double volley of arrows is more effective and again you need those sixes but if I paint more models and revamp my Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang I’d have more Squighoppers, more Shootas and more Netters. Netters are only 45 points and although two out of three times I missed the crucial netting roll after spending the double, the fact that a 45 point model can hold up a 200+ point model for a single turn is a valuable skill.

What about Nurgle?

I bought the Maggotkin of Nurgle card pack for Warcry and although Nurglings getting 30 wounds or something ridiculous sounds impressive if you scroll back above I think speed, winning key initiative rolls, and outnumbering your opponent are more valuable than having the biggest toughest model on the board. Luckily some Nurgle daemons fly, so I would definitely buy and paint some of those models. I could use them in 40K too, so I just might. But first I’ll paint more Nurglings, I actually think Gloomspite Gitz is likely a better gang than Nurgle daemons. I’ve played all Nurgle daemons in Warhammer Fantasy Battle before they are slow, have almost no ranged attacks and get outmaneuvered, outshot, outmagiced, and charged. Warcry is of course a different game but one of the uses of lots of models, is making the enemy charge you so you get double attacks back with your activation. Exploiting that and using your flying guys well is likely key for Nurgle in Warcry.

New Warcry cards and paints

What’s Next?

During isolation I probably won’t get much gaming in, though I might play my first video game on my new laptop. I of course must work from home and I will also be taking a selfstudy course for work when the book arrives. I paid extra for the e-Book so lets see if I can download that now should I get ePub or PDF or both? Anyway for the purpose of this blog I primed more models, yet more Nurglings and I bought more paints, even more Contrast paints so that means more Contrast Nurglings are coming. I’m also going to try some Contrast paints out on my OOP Necromunda Escher gang. I need to paint more efficiently and if Contrast paints will help me, why wouldn’t I use them? Alas I just seem to end up using multiple washes and highlights on top of the Contrast Paint anyway.

It appears I will be reading another 325 pages about T-SQL, but I’ll also try to do some painting during the time of the Coronavirus. If you have any thoughts on miniature painting, Warcry, Gloomspite Gitz, Nurgle or Necromunda you can leave them below.

 

 

 

Warcry Gloomspite Gitz Gang is Done

It has taken a while, some of these models I’ve owned since the 1990s. Some of these models were still in blisters from the 90s but now I have a fully painted and even a fully based Night Goblin err Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang…

It has taken a while, some of these models I’ve owned since the 1990s. Some of these models were still in blisters from the 90s but now I have a fully painted and even a fully based Night Goblin err Gloomspite Gitz Warcry gang and this weekend if the pandemic doesn’t stop us they will descend upon the Sentry Box and the unsuspecting.

If you’ve been following me on Instagram you’d know I’ve been making progress despite my work, gym, and study schedule. I finally painted for seven hours straight last Saturday and another three hours on Sunday to get them to “done”. It is unlikely I will paint that hard again for a long time. Loyal readers will remember me painting until the wee hours and updating this blog before 40K tournaments.

Posting from a  New Laptop

Another thing that finally happened this year is I got a new laptop, two new laptops if you count the one work assigned me in case we all have to work from home. I was looking at docks that support Thunderbolt or at least USB-C just today. The reason this was important is it took a long time to transfer all my date to my new MacBook Air and that held up my painting as did reading 100s of pages about Python and Finance. My laptop is nice, but switching form self hosted to WordPress.com is confusing me a bit.

Goblin Skin

Painting Goblin Skin

The goblin skin may have been completely painted by January 27th. They were largely done the same as the previous two batches. I start with black primer and build up to a paint called “Moth Green” made by Reaper. That is my new recipe and new brightest green. If you want even brighter greenskins you can highlight up to yellow or I guess even white or you can apply several glazes of green. If you like paler greenskins you can use colors similar to GW’s old “Rotting Flesh” or Vallejo makes a color called “Green Grey” which I actually used on the squigs too. I’ve also been given a bunch of Reaper skintones including “Moldy Skin” which is a pale greenish color.

Painting Black Fabric

My black recipe is also not top secret. I use the Foundry Charcoal Black triad. I may need to replace it soon, but it along with a black wash is good enough. You can of course go to a lighter grey and I do that sometimes using Citadel and Vallejo paint to highlight the edges further.

Painting Purple

My purple recipe has changed over the years, I use a Foundry Triad for that too, but I also think it benefits a lot from a thin purple wash. I can also go brighter if I feel like it. These models took a long time so I didn’t want to spend more time on their robes than I had to. The Contrast Purple is pretty good and I actually used it for my squig eyes. One thing to remember about the Foundry Triads is you don’t have to go A, B, C. You can start with the midtone then just do a wash, of go midtone then shade or midtone then highlight. I used to have different orders I used for different triads. Going A, B, C is safe to start with but usually you need a second coat of B or C to get the best results after a wash.

Purple Fabric

Top Secret Squig Recipe

The key to getting good flavour out of a squig, I mean color is lots of thin coats. I have three squigs in my Warcry gang. Actually because I’ve never played I tried to get the greatest variety of models in my gang so I have one squig, one squig hopper, and Boingrot Bounder. The paint I used on all three is called Aethermatic Blue. I painted over Wraithbone most of the time. As you may recall I primed my goblins black, this meant the squigs got primed black too, well the ones with riders did. If I had to do it all over again, I’d paint the Boingrot Bounder in pieces, that is what the experts will do.

If you’re not an expert and you’re just trying to get your models “battle ready” you have to decide what is more import, easier black robes or brightly coloured squigs. If you want your cake and to eat it too, you can do what I did and hand paint two coats of Wraithbone then two coats of Aehtermatic Blue then a bunch of thinned washes both blue and green along with the aforementioned strange Vallejo highlight colors including my latest discovery “Light Green Blue” which is darker than “Green Grey”.

WIP Squigs

Painting Teeth and Bones

Apparently another of my specialties is painting bones. You’re in luck the new Contrast Paint, Skeleton Horde works great over Wraithbone. I used it on skulls and horns and it is fine for goblin teeth. But if you want your squig mouths to be red too, you need to paint the red between the teeth either with paint or a wash or even Contrast Paint. GW seems to think you should use them as a base coat but you can use them as a wash or a glaze, remember GW recommends not thinning them with water so I generally use them at full strength but you can thin them with something else. Although Skeleton Horde is a winner, you can still highlight with a beige or bone color, I have several from GW and Vallejo. You can also do a thin red or even red and black wash if you want a more unique look. Highlighting with pure white was also done especially on teeth for these models.

Metallics and Other Details

I used mostly GW metallic paint, some very old pots, but many of my oldest paints had to be junked out. The era of GW paint with either the flip or twist bolter lids is the worst. Every single pot I had from that era dried out while my paints were in storage whereas some of my Ork VS Eldar paint set still works though I wonder how many pots are left from then, I still see my original Hawk Turquoise paint pot among my current collection but I can’t recall using it since I moved to Calgary. For metallics I recommend a wash, you can use black, brown, sepia, even multiple washes. I still use my “Rust Brown Ink” that is almost as old as my Ork Vs Eldar paint set paints. I think my “Waaargh Green Ink” is older and I definitely used it on the squigs if not the goblins. I need a new leather brown paint and likely a few other midtones they seem to run out first with the lightest colors lasting the longest because I paint a lot of dark evil models. White and black also dry out quickly and need regular replacing.

Remember no matter what you’re painting the same basic principles hold, multiple thin coats and thin washes being better than drowning your model in the latest greatest wonder wash. In fact now on YouTube there are many tutorials where you can see people wet blending and using lots of glazes, these advanced techniques aren’t that hard and I used them plenty on previous models.

Secret Squig Skin Recipe Number Three

Although I used Wraithbone and Aethermatic Blue for two squigs, for the third squig I painted it grey, I think a Foundation grey, those are paints that also dry out easily. I then put highlights on the grey then over the highlights two heavy washes of Contrast Paint. Then I built up the highlights using various grey, blue, green colors and of course thin washes. I think it came out pretty good, but it is not my best work.


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OMG #Warmongers I painted for about seven hours Saturday and then maybe three more hours Sunday that wasn’t healthy. This was all to get my #Warcry gang of #gloomspitegitz but honestly it is mostly #NightGoblins I got the #goblins in the #warhammerfantasybattle 4th Edition boxset and I’ve slowly been painting them since the 90s. If I had to do it all over I wouldn’t have a horde army and of course I’d force myself to lower my #painting standards even further. I bought the box of new #squighoppers as I wanted a Boingrot Bounder in my gang and that was a frustrating #model to assemble and paint. I even did freehand on the mask/helmet. This guy is more #oldschool or #oldhammer he has #freehand #purpleflames on his hat but the star of the show is the #squig face. It isn’t my best work but I spent extra time on it and used likely a unique combination of paints. This model was #primedblack which is fin for the goblin but not for #contrastpaint which I used on all three of my squigs. The color I chose was #aethermaticblue which I used over #wraithbone on the other models but for this model I painted a #grey #foundationpaint on to the black then highlighted the grey using #citedelpaints and #vallejo paints. After 2-3 highlights I put two coats of Aethermatic Blue over the grey. Then I used more green greys to highlight the face and thin blue and green washes to shade and glaze. I also spent time on the teeth, eventually I had to say “Enough” though I ended up highlighting the nose and doing some #blacklining in the mouth. I made the back of this model cooler as well and painted the warts with terracotta, orange and I believe some yellow glaze. All that remains is to base them. #PaintingWarhammer #Wargaming #GamesWorkshop #MiniatureMonday #MiniPainting #GW #eavymetal

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Basing Goblins

These goblins are based the same way the last 50 plus were. I used a brown called “Terra Cotta” two words made by Delta Ceramcoat and I used two coats. Then I used all kinds of different basing materials that I acquired and thought might work for an Autumnal scheme, which should be fine for Warcry and Gloomspite Gitz they have desserts in the Age of Sigmar somewhere. I liked the “dead grass” that Citadel made but I also used basing material from Galeforce Nine, Woodland Scenics and others.

Night Goblins with Autumnal Bases

New Lamp

While painting for hours and hours I decided that although I had three lights on my desk I needed more light. So experts online recommend a natural LED based light so I got one on Amazon and it is soon to be famous if you have a shelve above your desk like me. I haven’t gotten to paint by it yet, it literally just arrived, but I think it will be a winner. It is powered by USB hence why I need a USB hub or dock on my desk real soon now.

Witness my new LED desk lamp

What Will I Paint Next?

Nurglings, Bill doesn’t understand it but they are legal in Warcry now and I think they are good models for testing paint combinations. I also have long schemed of a horde of Nurglings, others can have their hordes of cultists or plague zombies, I want a horde of Nurglings obstructing any clever tactic my opponent comes up with. I’ll also be painting one of my original Escher gangers Wraithbone and trying the Contrast Skin color out, they are still primed Smelly Primer from the 90s. I don’t know what I’ll put in my gang, but it will be an Escher gang and have some vintage conversions and of course it’ll be purple and green.

If you have painting advice or questions or you’re an Internet Expert in Warcry or Necromunda you can try to leave a comment below.

Nurgling Contrast

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out…

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out. And although I don’t need them for Warcry and Bill thinks I’m crazy to want to paint more Nurglings, I thought they’d make a great test model for the new style of GW painting. To keep Bill happy and because I actually eventually want to play something, I built all the goblins and squigs I needed for my proposed gang. I even opened a blister I’ve had since the 90s, not sure if it counts as Oldhammer.Old Night Goblin Squig Hearder Blister

Also on my miniature painting table are apparently 30 year old Gretchin because again I have them and thought they’d make a good model to test out new and old paints. I have a lot of old paint that has dried out after years in storage. I also have some black primered metal Nurglings as I’ve long had a dream of a Nurgling heavy 40K army. I was at first going to do 30 stands, then I downsized to 15, but now I’ve decided to go for 27, three squads of nine. As mentioned, Bill thinks I’m crazy.Miniatures being cleaned and assembled

It should go without saying that you need a light undercoat/basecoat to use the Contrast Paints. I chose Wraithbone after reading and watching tutorials online. I also tried some over a darker grey primer from Krylon. It doesn’t work as well, though some swear by a medium grey primer. I’m not sure the Diseased Sons will be converted over to using Contrast Paints, but I’d like to try it on a larger model. I’ve long maintained I don’t want to paint better, I want to paint more efficiently. Of course I just spent hours painting a single stand of Nurglings.

I also painted part of two squigs and worked on more Nurglings. First if you are going for speed, don’t paint your Nurgling stand in pieces. I do think if you basecoat everything at least then assemble it’ll look better, but if speed is your goal, glue then prime. Also don’t paint every Nurgling a unique color. I’ve done a whole stand the same color before, even dry brushed them and it doesn’t look as good as having multiple coloured Nurglings. You can of course choose only two or three colors. You can add further variety by using various washes. That is what I did.

I used every Contrast Paint I had as a skin tone except Skeleton Horde which I saved for the horns. I used a variety of washes, glazes, and inks. I did not use Army Painter Strong Tone something I bought on Bill’s recommendation. Sometimes I used multiple coats of Contrast Paint, sometimes I did not. I even painted some Nurglings regular old GW colors like Camo. I also used Vallejo, Reaper and Foundry paints. In fact for the back row of green Nurlings I did several ever lighter custom blended dry brushes, then of course more washes and Contrast Paints. I also sometimes painted directly in the folds, rather than covering all the skin.

For the Nurglings and the Squigs I touched up things like teeth, horns, eyes, and guts with Wraithbone, sometimes more than once. For the Nurglings I could afford to be a bit sloppy and I did some blood and guts spilling out with reds, but I also used the new Nurgle Technical Paint. I will have to try a “dry” paint. I poopooed them, but honestly I have so many unpainted models. I’m not above dry brushing, especially Nurglings.Almost finished Nurglings painted with Contrast Paints

Although I did take many photos and consulted Bill, I didn’t write down every paint I used on every Nurgling. It will be hard to duplicate any particular one, but the official Nurgle tutorials online are pretty good. I think for my next stand I’ll only use the green contrast paints, maybe skeleton horde on some skin. Then I’d use a variety of washes and inks, obvious colors like greens and browns. I didn’t use any Devlan Mud on these ones, I prefer to carefully apply my washes and inks, rather than the bath technique. I’d do what I did before and dry brush on highlights, then paint the details in Wraithbone again.

That should speed up the process some.

Some people online seem to prime grey then dry brush white then apply Contrast Paints. Others seem to prime black, then paint on grey, rather than counting on say the Wraithbone spray can to stick to bare plastics. You can definitely apply Contrast Paints over light grey paint, I never tried it over pure white except for one squigs eyes.Squig painted with Contrast Paints

It has been cold in Calgary lately and I have a bit of a cold, but it is #MiniatureMonday so I will try to get this post published. If you have questions you can leave them below. Sorry the photos are not the best, the lighting is not the best in my living room, which is why I have so many lights attached to my desk. I might buy or set up a photobooth someday, but for now quick iPhone snaps will have to do. I’m not trying to be #Instafamous.

Here Be Goblins

After a bout of Norovirus or something close I did the final few touchups and details on my latest batch of monopose Goblin spearmen straight outta the Warhammer 4th Edition boxset…

After a bout of Norovirus I did the final few touchups and details on my latest batch of monopose Goblin spearmen straight outta the Warhammer 4th Edition boxset. I had previously painted the command complete with the army standard bearer as I truly have been working on this army since 4th Edition. The one goblin with a shield was example for other people to help me basecoat. The second batch has purple booties which does look better but after the front row can you see their boots?

No what you see in these big blocks of infantry is heads and weapons so going forward that is where I will put my effort. I will also have to find the shields. I know I counted out out 63 and put them in a pill bottle. I also know I used some other small round Warhammer shields likely Dark Elves and Skaven maybe even some Dwarven ones. I better not have lost that pill bottle, I’m feeling all paranoid now, but it must be in with my models and paints but I don’t recall seeing it when I went through the boxes at my mom’s house or here when I sorted out things so I could paint, but I wasn’t looking for it.

In the olden days you could have goblins without shields but now I think you get either a shield and a spear or a shield and a hand weapon or a bow plus a knife. I do have some later multi-pose plastic goblins as I was going to do a unit without bows or spears but you get so burnt out painting these models. I just watch two GW instructional videos, they didn’t have those back in 4th Edition, and the painting standard to be “Battle Ready” has gone way down, one coat and a wash or the new Contrast method which is one thick coat. It does seem to work for some colours and models, but it doesn’t look as good.

I’ve long maintained I don’t want to paint better, I want to paint more efficiently. That said I also think skirmish scale games are more realistic for the average tabletop gamer and then you can personalize your models as they are really seen from all sides. In these big blocks of infantry only the front models really are noticed, maybe the second rank, I think when I did the archers I gradually painted less highlights on the models as they got deeper into the unit. I also magnetized the one unit I based which is even more work. I just don’t care enough about playing Warhammer to paint 50+ more goblins plus do all the bases and whatever else I’m missing to play. There is a “Legends” list now so my Doom Divers have a use but I think I need a second catapult, plus some crew for my war machines. I think that is one of the purposes of the box of plastic goblins I bought.

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On the left is a member of the first batch of #goblins I #painted over two weeks ago. On the right is a representative of the second batch. I’m not sure which is better. I’m chucking out a lot of paint after it sat unused for almost a decade. The bolter top lid #GW paints dry out the fastest. The #FoundationPaints also separate and dry out quickly. I still have a few pots of usable (barely) #citadelpaints from the first paint set I got #OrksVSEldar The #greens #purples #browns even the #greys are slightly different. The second batch got purple booties with fur trim which does look better but when all ranked up all you see is heads and weapons. Next batch which will not be for a long while, I’m sick of #monopose goblins, will have considerably less effort put into them. All the GW colors I bought for this project have dried out so a lot of #wargamesfoundry paints which is supposedly the original GW recipe were used. The charcoal black 34C is starting to thicken, it is basically the same color as Adeptus Battlegrey. I paint out of the pot a lot, I’m old school but I can use a #wetpalette I even bought 3 #contrastpaints to try out. Now for even more #gratuitoushashtagspam #PaintingWarhammer #Warhammer #Wargaming #Warmongers #GamesWorkshop #MiniatureMonday #MiniPainting #ModelPainting #CoolMinis #EavyMetal #TableTopGaming

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What’s Next?

Realistically I’m not sure. Christmas is coming and although I plan to paint Sundays and Tuesdays and to use the hashtag #MiniatureMonday I am flying to my mother’s house on the 21st. My plan was to paint some Nurglings and whatever else is partially painted when I finally gave up and put my life in storage. The plan beyond that is a couple more goblins likely squig hoppers and whatever the armoured squig hoppers are called plus maybe some regularly squigs. I think my proposed gang had one of each so that is three models.

I also want to do more Nurglings, some using the new contrast paints so I will probably buy some more of those plus the magical basecoat “wraithbone”. In fact an army with 30 Nurgling stands was a long held dream. Bill thinks I’m crazy and anyway I only need 27 under the latest rules. There are 9 stands in my display case, one more that I painted at GW Highgate and then I think there must be six stands on square bases and two more stands still on spures, that’s right most of my Nurglings are metal. The really old ones are glued to a rhino. I wish I had more of those and my Snotlings from that era disappeared none of my old gaming group seems to have volunteered having them, it is a mystery.

I never even wanted to play Warcry I just agreed to do it because I have so many goblins they must be good for something. The game I wanted to play was Killteam so I could use my Nurgle Renegades err Death Guard and CSM. I have almost all the old options painted. My second choice was Necromunda and now miracle of miracles Bill and one more person are apparently “in”. I will play Escher because that is what I played in the olden days. My gang was converted, primed and a tiny bit of black, purple, and green had been applied. That is right the color scheme for my Escher gang is the same as my goblins and every army, even my Skaven Bloodbowl team is purple and green.

I won’t even try to match the purple and green from those days. I’ll probably just go with whatever is in my paint rack today and still flows. I’ll have to test my wet palette soon. Overall, I have my paints pretty well ordered. I still haven’t tested reds or oranges or blues or all the metallics but most of the colours I need for my purple, green, and black models is functioning. My Charcoal Black Triad needs thinning at least the highlight does but honestly the other secret is Badab Black or some other wash. I don’t have GW’s latest black wash but I have their older ones.

That is one good thing about Nurgle colours don’t have to match perfectly in fact I try to paint all my Plaguebearers differently. Now that I’ve got 40+ painted Plaguebearers I have moved on to Nurglings. Eventually I hope to do some of the new models, but the next models I buy will either be bits for my Necromunda Gang once I read the rules and do an inventory of all the bits I have or I will buy more Nurglings and try to do them mostly with contrast paints.reinforcements

That virus did a number on my abdomen. I think I’m about out of energy for the day. I never said I would blog every week. If I can get in a couple hours of painting a week that is good enough. I still have a lot to do behind the scenes on this blog like clean up the sidebar but if you have thoughts on painting goblins or purple or black or green you can leave them below.

Painted Goblins

It has been a long time since I painted any miniatures. Over five years to tell the truth. In that time I’ve moved several times, including living abroad and teaching English again. Now I’ve finally passed all three CFA® exams and am living in Calgary again…

It has been a long time since I painted any miniatures. Over five years to tell the truth. In that time I’ve moved several times, including living abroad and teaching English again. Now I’ve finally passed all three CFA® exams and am living in Calgary again.

My paints and models have been in storage even longer than five years. Many of my paints have dried out but some I bought back in the 90s still work and I painted some vintage plastic goblins from the Warhammer 4th Edition boxset to prove I still can.

No they are not my best work. Yes I spent too much time on them for rank and file spearmen for an army I don’t even have the current rules for. No I don’t have any plans to play Warhammer. Yes I have 59 more identically posed models that need at least some touch ups. No I didn’t do the bases. Yes I plan to base them to match the archers. No I don’t have all my basing and terrain making materials in Calgary. Yes they’ll get shields eventually.Almost Finished Goblin Spearman

The next thing I’ll probably paint is more of these exact same goblins, not because I’m under any delusions I’ll have the unit of 66 done anytime soon, but because they are already primed and base coated badly. I also want to get a bit more efficient. One of my all-time favourite green pots, Bilious Green has died. This will affect all my green Diseased Sons. It will also affect my green skin painting technique but I apparently already bought a replacement from another range. My Citadel browns fared even worse, the twist off bolter shell pots are the worst GW ever made. I still have more paint than I need to paint average rank and file models, most people probably would have been happy with the speed paint job, but I want at least the first couple ranks to be highlighted.

After more goblins I’ll probably get to painting other models that were put away partly painted all those years ago. My “ta-do” list includes a number of models that were converted and primed years ago. I’m not even sure all of them are still armed legally. Flamers and Heavy Flamers seem to no longer be in the Nurgle I mean Death Guard Codex.

Yes I have the latest book. I bought it Shanghai. I’ve also bought Kill Team and Warcry because I think skirmish games are more realistic from a painting and apartment dweller point of view. I haven’t played 40K in years. I have put a lot of work into my army and my decision years ago to paint my models various colours has made it even more work to update the army. At the least I may update the green squads without Bilious Green kneepads. I also may do a purple Plague Marine squad but I’m not sure I need the brown or grey squads any time soon. I think doing a new squad from scratch may be less work.My miniatures in an Ikea display case

My envisioned army will have Nurglings both because the rules may have gotten better and because it was an old idea I never finished. I also think Nurglings are the perfect models to re-learn to paint on. I like the fact Nurgle got unique Fast Attack so some of those models will be bought and painted. After that my next priority will be the new HQ and Elite models. Terminators may not be the greatest but I have a lot of them already painted and they are at least hard to kill, so a squad or two maybe even my Landraider will feature in my army list if I ever play again.

My undivided and other Chaos Space Marines may get some love. I plan to focus on Nurgle but my army may not always be Battle Forged as I want Nurglings. I also may even paint yet more Plaguebearers but I’m less enthused about them in 40K as I think guns are good. I think I need to paint one more Khorne Bezerker but may paint a couple so I have some options for that squad. Some Khorne Terminators could be bought and converted as the one I have is also lonely. I will also paint some vehicles, a dreadnought neigh Hellbrute for sure and probably yet another Forgeworld model I acquired years ago.

If I get through all that maybe I’ll work on 40K Orks or even my WWI dream army or any number of other models I’ve acquired over the years. I may even sell or trade away a bunch of models as the likelihood of me painting say 40-50 more space marines, even Chaos Space Marines is low. I can see me doing my Necromunda gang finally maybe even some other Necro figs as I have plenty. I will use some as Chaos cultists but painting hordes is not that appealing except of Nurglings. Ultimately I’d like to paint a centrepiece model if not a Titan then at least a Superheavy tank or a flyer.

Before I do all that I had to get everything out of storage, glue a lot of models back together and I upgraded my Ikea display case. After that I ordered a painting tray as my current apartment although not small does not have a dedicated painting desk or table. I don’t even have a kitchen table I can commandeer. What I do have is an old Ikea desk which I am using for my laptop and then I put that away and get out my Miniature Scenery painting station.Miniature Scenery Painting Workstation
Bill already said I should have recorded a video of building it. I also built a third one of their shelves which I’d bought years ago. I think I have even more of their stuff and you can get some of it from another website and not have to pay shipping from Australia. I bought most of it through Darren’s store if my memory serves correct. I asked Sentry Box if they had any painting stations and they did not nor did they seem to want to help me order one in so I bought it online.

The other store I have bought at least one model at because it was their anniversary is the GW in Chinook Centre. I’ve liked both on Facebook. I will probably share this post on Facebook and I already put an image of a goblin on Instagram. I still prefer Flickr and Twitter but I’ll be selective about tweeting hobby stuff but all my finished models will be photographed with my “bigger” camera and uploaded to this album.

I am not crazy over the latest version of WordPress. I had to change the theme of this blog to support the latest internet standards and I have switched to a fatter image header. This blog does not do well in search engines and never has. Many people have given up on blogging, they vlog or podcast or just share their work in private Facebook groups or on Instagram where you need to paste a paragraph of hashtags after every post.

View this post on Instagram

Well it is not my best work #warmongers but these are the first four #miniatures I’ve painted in years. They are vintage #Warhammer Old World #Goblins straight from the very first #GW big box game, well after Battlemaster and I guess Bloodbowl. Anyway I have almost sixty of these #minis sitting badly basecoated for years. I’ll get around to the base if I ever finish the whole unit. They’ll likely get shields eventually as I don’t think they can’t have them anymore. The #skintone is all #OOP greens and washes and inks. I had to finally chuck my Bilious Green pot so there is some #Reaper #Foundry and #Vallejo even some #P3 paints in their. The purples and greys are a dogs breakfast of colors. The metallics are old too, some of the paints are older than this #model I’ll update my blog some day, and I plan to make more goblins then some #Nurglings and other #Nurgle models before finally painting some #CSM this is my first mini on #Instagram but it might not be my last. I know how to use #hashtags but I think I need a stronger lamp.

A post shared by Andrew McKay (@muskiemckay) on

My plan is to actually go through every post on this blog just like I did on my main blog. I plan to reduce the number of categories as experts say each post should be in a single category and that you should have 5-8 categories in total. You can of course also use tags but those too need to be optimized for search engines and 3 per post is considered plenty. So I will try to follow this expert advice not because I want to be popular but because I think Quality is important. I also may edit out any posts that are too personal. I actually updated all the hand-coded HTML that makes up the website for my Nurgle army, but I haven’t edited and optimized every webpage I own yet so this one is next.

Maybe no one will notice but if I use enough hashtags and share it on social media I’m sure someone will read all the way to the bottom and leave a comment.

Not Dead, Not Back Painting Either

I’m still living in China, but I did buy the new Nurgle err Deathguard Codex, I have not bought the new 40k rules and all my miniatures and paints are rotting in storage back in Canada…

I’m still living in China, but I did buy the new Nurgle err Death Guard Codex, I have not bought the new 40k rules and all my miniatures and paints are rotting in storage back in Canada. I’ll be back in Canada soon but my career does not go well, that is kinda why I’m updating this blog. Many websites are blocked in China including Twitter, Facebook, Instagram, and even Pinterest. This blog had gotten old and out of date, so while updating the code behind my homepage I had to change the theme on this blog to one with proper featured image support.

The documentation recommends 1200 pixels, but I was using 236 pixels to match Pinterest on my main website. I think sticking with 236 pixels across both sites will be best the plan, but I may experiment so if there are several test posts, it is so I can test the theme and RSS feed.

redesignFTW

I’ve been brushing up on my IT skills as I need a job as despite passing the Level 3 CFA exams I could not get a new job, not in China, not in Hong Kong, not in Singapore nowhere. I appear to be too old like my army and my blog, so I will keep looking, if you have any leads please let me know. Also if you have any suggestions for a WordPress theme let me know, but for now it will be this one, as this blog is not a priority, but getting my homepage to load quicker inside China became a priority today.

It should go without saying that if you’ve read this far you should view my resume or at least leave a comment below.

Played Some 40K

After over three years away from the gaming table, I’ve now played 5 games of 7th edition Warhammer 40,000, including one large in-store Apocalypse game. There is no way I’m writing turn by turn battle reports, I just don’t have the time, instead I will focus on high level observations from a longtime 40K player.

  • Randomness is back in a big way. You play a random mission, which has random tactical objectives, random game length, charge lengths are random, the psychic phase is back and it is random.
  • Allies and unbound armies make the game even more random and non-canonical.
  • There is a major arms escalation, the old days of the bolter and the chainsword being enough to kill most foes is gone. Players do not have to follow the force org chart so those of us who continue to play with no special characters, no allies, and follow the force org chart are at a big disadvantage. Basically our troops win ties when competing for tactical objectives, but the average troop is rarely seen on the battlefield and generally has a short lifespan.
  • What is in is big models with ever fancier guns that completely retcon decades of fluff. No longer are terminators the best, centurions seem to be better. Dreads have been supplanted long ago by better dreads and Forgeworld dreads.
  • Forgeworld is almost necessary, some folks make their army from four or more books, cherry picking the best units from all. Folks who have stayed loyal to one army for as long as me basically don’t exist.
  • The days of small infantry tactics, target prioritization, focussing on mission objectives seems to be gone. The winning tactic seems to be biggest baddest special character (model) running up the field relying on cover and lucky charge distance roll. The counter for this being either not advancing at all thus forfeiting most tactical objective or trying to build a model/unit that can kill your opponents special character and wonder unit once they inevitably get into H2H.
  • The books needed for my army now weigh more than my army, especially when you count in cards, tokens, dice, templates etc. Without a car an army isn’t really portable.
  • Unpainted models are allowed in official GW store events, I definitely have spent more time painting my army than anyone I’m likely to play and their handling of my models often leaves something to be desired. I doubt I’ll be lending models to random people again any time soon. I prefer 1500 point games to massive chaotic affairs where the only tactic is running forward and dying.

So since I have very little time to play and don’t really enjoy lugging even one case of models all the way to Burnaby I need to get a better job and a better apartment to host. I don’t even mind mostly painting. I’m surprised tabletop games have lasted this long, video games are cheaper, require less space, and you can randomly find an opponent online easily if you play the popular games. The advantage the tabletop games have is customization. I can play my army. I can also play my friends, assuming you still have friends who play Warhammer 40,000. There are too many rules in 40K for a beer and pretzels game, the models are also expensive and with the emphasis on bigger and bigger armies and models, GW is giving up on recruiting new players and focussing on selling more stuff to existing fans. The stores still serve as defacto daycares for young boys. I seem to have gained one or two disciples because I actually took the time to play, talk with, and remember the names of these youngsters.

I have made yet another 1500 point army list with a minimum of troops and the biggest and hopefully most dangerous models in my collection. But long term my army needs overhauling again. I need to paint some old models for fun, but I also need a new general, a new Chosen squad, a new large model probably a Soulgrinder, and actual Fast Attack so Raptors and Bikes. Maneuverability is more and more important, being only able to move 6 inches a turn is a disadvantage. I’m not a fan of Deep Striking so raptors or more likely bikes will get painted up finally, besides Toughness 6 bikers has to be good right?

Here are some pictures of my army in action against loyalist and chaos marines, those seem to be the most popular armies, though Guard and Eldar have some fans, saw little Tau or Tyranids.

18 Foot long Apocalypse table

Boris now has 4 Hull Points

Landraiders also have 4 Hull Points

Lefty volunteers to defend the portal

Drop Pod assaults are still common

Hand to Hand combat under the bridge

Chaos Champions are special

My Lord needs a better retinue

Terminators are back in my army listKhorne is no longer popular

Typhus is very popular