Painting Nurgle and Necromunda

Nurgle does not appear to be part of Necromunda yet, though his followers were recently added to Warcry…

Nurgle does not appear to be part of Necromunda yet, though his followers were recently added to Warcry. Those appear to be my three painting focuses in 2020. I’m slowly working on getting my Nurgle groove back, by painting Nurglings with contrast paints. I’m also painting old and new Night Goblins err Gloomspite Gitz to use in Warcry and after many many years my all metal Escher gang from the nineties will return to the table resplendent in their green and purple gang uniforms. If this sounds like your bag baby, then this could be the blog for you.

In the time of the Coronavirus I should perhaps be painting more, but I’m actually working from home, so I spend a lot of time at my desk, so the fact that I’m right back at my desk tonight to update this blog is a tribute to my commitment to #MiniatureMonday. I’ve actually put in a lot of time on basically four models, three green, purple, and brown stands of Nurglings and an OOP Escher ganger with a lasgun. All had Contrast Paints used on them, the Nurglings especially.

I’m still not a Contrast Paint master, I should probably thin them more often, and I should probably thin my washes more too. I wanted a dark purple but I think contrast paints work better in multiple thin coats rather than one coat right out of the pot and call it done. I always end up shading contrast paints, highlighting, using glazes etc. I think the contrast paints make a good glaze actually and I’ll have to experiment more with thinning them as my vintage Citadel glaze collection is incomplete and irreplaceable.

That last statement may not be true, some people like me still use paint they bought in the 90s others have discovered that companies other than Citadel including Coat d’Arms and Warcolors may have duplicated vintage Citadel paints. Other companies make paint too and you can blend any custom color. I do blend custom colors you can see this on the Escher ganger’s blue hair but doing a whole army, say 100 power armoured dudes in custom blends will take time. The appeal of Contrast was it supposedly saved time, but I’m on record as saying coloured primers in rattle cans or airbrushed basecoats with a wash is faster when your goal is a lot of models that look very similar.

This is a reason I’m pro-skirmish game. I’m a slow painter and I actually want all my models to look different. I don’t mind reusing purple, green and brown so the models look similar, and I had certain “go to” techniques and colors for painting skin, or power weapons, or plasma guns. Now a lot of those paints are solid, so matching the purples from the 90s or even the purples from the damn bolter pot era will take work. I’m actually tempted to not even try, but I want to make it so my seven squads of plague marines are all legal and if possible all unique.

That is a big project in the mean time I test out Contrast paints trying to determine if I’ll use them on my plague marines or stick to the tried and true techniques of the 90s and early 2000s. Nurglings don’t have to all look the same and neither do gangers. Even Nurgle models are unlikely to be in a dress parade any time soon, I do wish I’d painted the models the same color, it is easier to repaint squad markings than it is to repaint entire models.

WIP Constrast Paint Nurglings

If you’ve gotten this far and are disappointed, what can I say I’m tired. I only have one desk so I have to paint, then clean off my desk so I can work Monday morning. I should blog as I paint and some people think I should vlog. The main colors I used above are: Ork Flesh, Shyish Purple, and Gore-Grunta Fur. I had a lot of problems with base coating three stands of Nurgle. I’ll try again and next time I’ll likely thin the contrast paint with contrast medium and use a bigger brush.

Contrast Paints are a bit messy so you should paint the lightest color first they tell you, but I painted the Escher ganger’s hair blue after painting her skin and lets just say blue skin on Chaos Spacemarines is cool, on Escher gangers you don’t want any blue to bleed on to your carefully highlighted flesh.

I do like Contrast Paints as accents. I’m not sold on doing every model spray painted Wraithbone as a start. I think Night Goblins and probably my Plaguemarine will benefit from the black basecoat. You can get Wraithbone in a pot and it is probably the single pot of paint I’ve used the most in 2020. I am always touching up.

This batch of Nurglings I did a lot of details like guts and tongues early but eventually purple or green or brown paint got on them. If you really committed to speed, you have to be willing to dry brush. All the Nurglings have a token dry brush. You can make your highlights less harsh with a glaze. But if you use glazes straight out of the pot or too heavy you may fine they darken away most of your highlights. I will need to thin things more if I want to stay light and benefit the most from Contrast Paints.

Purple, Green, and Brown Nurglings

As I alluded to above I was disappointed with the experience of base coating three Nurgling stands so doing 100 space marines or goblins in Contrast Paints seems like a recipe for frustration but the accent colors starting with Fresh Tearers Red which worked great for Nurgling guts, Magos Purple for Nurgling tongues, Aethermatic Blue is cool and served as a base for the Escher’s hair and Skeleton Horde is definitely a winner. In fact if someone dared me to do a loyalist army and I didn’t have so many models already I’d go Deathwing Terminators just like Owen did back at the dawn of third edition. An all or mostly terminator army is low model count and with Wraithbone spray cans, Skeleton Horde and drybrushing you should be able to crank out an army in short order, this is why skeletons or undead have always been an easy army to paint, they are drybrushable and you don’t have to be super neat painting the undead.

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It’s hard out there for a #warmonger Well not that hard but I miss my lamps and I think I should dig out a better brush and I’m still not sold on #contrastpaints Someone online swore by Guilliman flesh but I’m not. Maybe if you’re trying bulk paint barbarians but for this vintage #Escher #miniature it isn’t soft enough. I can paint flesh. I do like the bone and bloody red contrast colors. I used them on the Nurglings behind. But for fine details or even bulk painting I think there are better options. I think colored primer and a wonder wash yields better results much of the time. You also need a model with definite color blocks, this #Necromunda #model has a lot of fine details. If you’re going to join the #CultOfContrastPaints during #TheTimeOfCoronavirus you need to paint the lighter colors first and choose a scheme where the lighter colors are not in the recesses like this model’s skin tone. Well another #miniaturemonday on which I painted I hope to make more progress next weekend. I still work and I now waste time playing video games. I guess I’m a #HardcoreGamer now because I can use hashtags. #WarhammerCommunity #Wargaming #GamesWorkshop #MiniPainting #ModelPainting #GW #CoolMinis #EavyMetal #TableTopGaming #NoFilter

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This Escher’s hair is one coat of miracle blue #contrastpaint Miracle blue is sold as Aethermatic Blue, also known as #HardToSpellBlue You may recognize this blue from my squigs. This is literally #OneCoat That is right #TrueBelievers #OneCoatOfPaint #RightOutOfThePot This ignores the fact I primed then sprayed them #Wraithbone then touched up the Wraithbone many times with a brush. It also ignores the fact the purple, green and #fleshtone are not simply one coat of Contrast Paint and in fact I struggled and failed to get the green or flesh tones I wanted using a mishmash of new and #oldpaint The flesh started as Contrast skipped right over some #citadelpaints to my failing pot of #FoundryPaintSystem #Flesh5C then three #reapermasterseriespaints that probably sat way to long and I used the Contrast as a shade. I was going to go with red lips but this model has a tough to paint face. Not sure about eye color and I didn’t paint the eyebrows yet but @wframsey and I both thought go big, go blue with the hair. Not sure if I can resist giving it a #shade and a quick #highlight even a #drybrush should look good. Maybe I should consult @henrycavill These #vintage #escher #necromunda #models have a lot of detail. I’ll need a new green and purple recipe, plus a new leather, right now I’m using #EnglishUniformBrown another triad. Maybe I should have gone canvas. I miss my #og #snakebiteleather I worked on the Nurglings a bit but I want to get the Necromunda model done so I can start on the next one. Should they all have #BlueHair #WarhammerCommunity #Warhammer #Wargaming #Warmongers #GamesWorkshop #MiniatureMonday

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Yesterday I spent more time painting #nurglings than this #escher model. @wframsey was not satisfied with one coat of #contrastpaint neither was I, I guess. I used a little more of #hardtospellblue to shade the hair then I used an old #BlueWash thinned. Although I thinned the wash I think either I prefer a #greenwash or a different blue wash over this color. My pot of OG #SwoopingHawkTurquoise is a brick, and I decided to go brighter after darkening my perfectly good pale blue, so at some point I bought #deepskyblue from #vallejo and I highlighted with that. I was trying to get a fade, I mixed in more white as I went but it was a bit sloppy. I need to work on my frosted tips and #blending I have an old hexagon pot of #citadelpaints Turquoise #glaze. This smoothed out my highlights but darkened the hair once again. Rather than rehighlight I just decided “good enough”. I don’t know if I used this paint on the squigs but I should have it worked well. I ended up painting tiny details on Nurglings but I did touch up the skin on this model. For Contrast Paints some say lightest color first others might advocate painting in the recesses. But next time I think I’ll do flesh after hair. I didn’t make major mistakes but you always have a little touching up to do after using washes especially. Blue is really noticeable on #paleskin The big debate is what color to paint the scrunchies or whatever she had in her hair, Bill says black leather which is the color her boots will be. Some of my #WargamesFoundaryPaints are drying out too, so I am thinking of ordering replacements, someone recommended #Scale75 the other day too. I gotta get to work but I was prepared to post this #miniaturemonday #WarhammerCommunity #Wargaming #Warmongers #GamesWorkshop #MiniPainting #ModelPainting #GW #CoolMinis #EavyMetal #TableTopGaming #NoFilter #necromunda

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I tried Guilliman Flesh one coat out of the pot and it was too harsh for the Escher ganger. I miss my Foundary Paint Triad #5 Flesh. It needs replacing I think. I may order it again along with Charcoal Black. I need a new green, I was disappointed with the greens on the Escher ganger so I may order Woodland Green and few other classics. The Escher gang was going to be in the same colors as my Skaven Bloodbowl gang. I actually ended up using a bunch of Reaper Master Series flesh paints I was gifted, they are underrated, they make a lot of cool colors. Bloodstain Red is awesome it was featured on my Khorne models. However, if you’re going to paint a lot of flesh, keep it simple stupid, Contrast and a straight out of the pot triad sounds like a win over custom blending with a wet pallet.

If you have been following me on Instagram or hashtag #MiniatureMonday you would have seen some progress photos. I’ embed them above, but I took extra photos though maybe I should have taken more, I don’t have a photo station set up at the moment, that is another thing I may buy online, so you’ll have to make do with iPhone snaps with less than perfect lighting. I’m still waiting on some cables and adapters to improve that situation.

I spent a lot of time painting boils and pustules on Sunday. Here is my not terribly efficient but actually effective technique. You paint ochre, a dark reddish brown will also work. Then in the centre you paint orange, you can skip right over red because you put a red glaze over top. This looks good but then I put an extreme dollop of yellow on top of each pustule. I used my very goopy Badmoon Yellow pot which unlike my Swooping Hawk Turquoise is still at least liquid.

Nurglings with Pustules

I think I can do a better job on turquoise blue hair. For the squigs I highlight with a more grey pallet, but fir the hair I used Deep Sky Blue from Vallejo gradually lightened with a Vallejo pure white. Then because I did it a bit too rush I used my old Turquoise Glaze, the ones with red lids and labels. This was a great set which I wish I had the entire collection of, but back in the day you had to use mail-order or take a ferry to get stuff, and once you got to Gastown there was no guarantee they had what you wanted in stock, my old ork armies suffered from random miniatures being the only miniatures available. Now GW is a corporate juggernaught or they were pre-Coronavirus and you can order anything, but you can’t order bitz, that is a service they used to offer, I still have many metal bits form my Grand Tournament appearances.

Not sure when I’ll enter a tournament, just painting regularly and trying to update social media tires me out. I’ve started playing video games again and of course I spend too much time on social media, so I think I must wrap this up. If you have questions of suggestions you can leave them below, stay safe.

Nurgling Contrast

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out…

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out. And although I don’t need them for Warcry and Bill thinks I’m crazy to want to paint more Nurglings, I thought they’d make a great test model for the new style of GW painting. To keep Bill happy and because I actually eventually want to play something, I built all the goblins and squigs I needed for my proposed gang. I even opened a blister I’ve had since the 90s, not sure if it counts as Oldhammer.Old Night Goblin Squig Hearder Blister

Also on my miniature painting table are apparently 30 year old Gretchin because again I have them and thought they’d make a good model to test out new and old paints. I have a lot of old paint that has dried out after years in storage. I also have some black primered metal Nurglings as I’ve long had a dream of a Nurgling heavy 40K army. I was at first going to do 30 stands, then I downsized to 15, but now I’ve decided to go for 27, three squads of nine. As mentioned, Bill thinks I’m crazy.Miniatures being cleaned and assembled

It should go without saying that you need a light undercoat/basecoat to use the Contrast Paints. I chose Wraithbone after reading and watching tutorials online. I also tried some over a darker grey primer from Krylon. It doesn’t work as well, though some swear by a medium grey primer. I’m not sure the Diseased Sons will be converted over to using Contrast Paints, but I’d like to try it on a larger model. I’ve long maintained I don’t want to paint better, I want to paint more efficiently. Of course I just spent hours painting a single stand of Nurglings.

I also painted part of two squigs and worked on more Nurglings. First if you are going for speed, don’t paint your Nurgling stand in pieces. I do think if you basecoat everything at least then assemble it’ll look better, but if speed is your goal, glue then prime. Also don’t paint every Nurgling a unique color. I’ve done a whole stand the same color before, even dry brushed them and it doesn’t look as good as having multiple coloured Nurglings. You can of course choose only two or three colors. You can add further variety by using various washes. That is what I did.

I used every Contrast Paint I had as a skin tone except Skeleton Horde which I saved for the horns. I used a variety of washes, glazes, and inks. I did not use Army Painter Strong Tone something I bought on Bill’s recommendation. Sometimes I used multiple coats of Contrast Paint, sometimes I did not. I even painted some Nurglings regular old GW colors like Camo. I also used Vallejo, Reaper and Foundry paints. In fact for the back row of green Nurlings I did several ever lighter custom blended dry brushes, then of course more washes and Contrast Paints. I also sometimes painted directly in the folds, rather than covering all the skin.

For the Nurglings and the Squigs I touched up things like teeth, horns, eyes, and guts with Wraithbone, sometimes more than once. For the Nurglings I could afford to be a bit sloppy and I did some blood and guts spilling out with reds, but I also used the new Nurgle Technical Paint. I will have to try a “dry” paint. I poopooed them, but honestly I have so many unpainted models. I’m not above dry brushing, especially Nurglings.Almost finished Nurglings painted with Contrast Paints

Although I did take many photos and consulted Bill, I didn’t write down every paint I used on every Nurgling. It will be hard to duplicate any particular one, but the official Nurgle tutorials online are pretty good. I think for my next stand I’ll only use the green contrast paints, maybe skeleton horde on some skin. Then I’d use a variety of washes and inks, obvious colors like greens and browns. I didn’t use any Devlan Mud on these ones, I prefer to carefully apply my washes and inks, rather than the bath technique. I’d do what I did before and dry brush on highlights, then paint the details in Wraithbone again.

That should speed up the process some.

Some people online seem to prime grey then dry brush white then apply Contrast Paints. Others seem to prime black, then paint on grey, rather than counting on say the Wraithbone spray can to stick to bare plastics. You can definitely apply Contrast Paints over light grey paint, I never tried it over pure white except for one squigs eyes.Squig painted with Contrast Paints

It has been cold in Calgary lately and I have a bit of a cold, but it is #MiniatureMonday so I will try to get this post published. If you have questions you can leave them below. Sorry the photos are not the best, the lighting is not the best in my living room, which is why I have so many lights attached to my desk. I might buy or set up a photobooth someday, but for now quick iPhone snaps will have to do. I’m not trying to be #Instafamous.

Chaos Cultist #2

Once again after my job interview I headed down to GW Highgate to amuse the staff…

Once again after my job interview I headed down to GW Highgate to amuse the staff. This time I had a slightly better plan and bought the box of 5 Chaos Cultists for I think $12.50 a veritable bargain in GW land and once again took one model pretty much from start to finish in a single sitting. This time it actually took less time because the cultist was only in two pieces and I used less paints.

I did buy my own brush and still couldn’t do really fine detail work and I didn’t do my best on the greys or the skin tone or the metallics or the blacks but I did some useful browns and tans and a passable purple. I also pulled off some strange hair colour again using some mystery colour which I blended with some other colours.

WIP Chaos Cultist

This model is good enough. I’m one of the only people in the world who wants to paint less well. There are things I’d like to fix on this model, it also needs basing. I made some fundamentally poor decisions in the name of experimentation and efficiency. I should have base coated black or at least grey. I should have probably done only one brown or if two browns then done less work on them. I should have done a darker grey. I should have not kept trying to use GW’s blue shade. I think their blue glaze may be more to my liking. Some parts of it are purple that shouldn’t be, some parts are brown that probably should be purple etc. etc.

I also think I’m a “Layer” man. The thicker high pigment paint is fine for most but even more efficient me likes the smoother applying paint of the Layer range. I’m not in such a hurry that I can’t do two whole coats of paint. A base coat whether with a “Base” or a “Layer” then a wash then a highlight looks good. You can even use your base coat as your highlight colour or your base coat mixed with a little white, grey, or even one of GW’s flesh tones.

Mostly finished Chaos Cultist

I even helped some kid base coat his Tau. He didn’t seem too concerned with quality control. I want to paint more efficiently if I can get by with two colours and a wash, great! But I still want to clean my model carefully. I want to apply my colours evenly and cleanly. I want to take 5 or 15 minutes to let the washes dry. I want to use more than one brush so I can paint some finer highlights. But first I need to get a new job and a new slightly larger place, one with room for a dedicated paint station. Also the CFA will rear it’s head again soon so 40K season for me is only a couple months long.

I really don’t know how to play Warhammer 40,000 anymore. I will learn the rules again. I own plenty of models. I can play the game, but I don’t really care to play the metagame as some have termed it. I also think given my limited time and the fact that getting a model done in four hours is “quickly” for me. I need to choose an army and models that have high points values and are quick to paint. Alas I have plenty of painted models, what I want is generally new tactical options and to paint the fancier models, painting Chaos Cultists is not that efficient in an hour per point way of thinking or more correctly 1.25 points per hour. Also the game has moved to a more over the top playing style where people are deliberately fielding unbalanced armies and GW will happily sell them more models to do so.

My reliance and loyalty to Nurgle doesn’t really cut it in a world with special characters that are released in a limited edition and models that are 888 points each in game. There is definitely an arms escalation in Warhammer 40,000 from a simple squad game with say twenty men and squad level commander to armies that are anything but troops.

I tried to make this cultist at least similar to my test model, but with completely different paints and not having the original test model to compare with, it isn’t perfect, but since when did Chaos Cultists all dress the same. Thor apparently painted 105 Chaos Cultists in a batch in approximately 2 weeks, I’ve now painted 2. If I can get 30 done I’d be happy, I want them all to have auto pistols except the champ and three flamer dudes.

Servant of Decay test figure

Painted a Model

After an over three year break, I finally paint another 28mm model.

So I went to see some old friends who just happen to run a gaming store. So while we were talking they said, why don’t you buy a model and paint something, so it became something of a challenge. The models I bought were the new (to me) Nurglings and I used the store paints and even more challenging the store brushes to paint one stand. Nurgling stand in three pieces

I never timed it, I wasn’t in a big rush, I picked Nurglings because I like to paint them and they are good to experiment with, they also can’t look wrong. I used five different colours to basecoat with, one grey, one purple, one green, one blue, and one brown. I never wrote the paint names down, I can’t even pronounce GW’s current paint names. But a clever person could figure out what I used.

I painted the model in three pieces until I got to the highlight stage. I used just one very well-used starter brush which made doing good eyes and teeth almost impossible. I had to repaint a lot of lips and noses. In the end I just had to say good enough because the store had to close.

I used every wash err “Shade” but the red one because it had ran out. I used purple and blue to shade my red. I also used the red glaze some. I tried one of the dry paints, it isn’t for me, but I can see how it would help painting an army of skeletons for instance. Finally after I used many many washes and I used the flat of the brush to do my highlights such as they are, I tried the texture paint to do the base. It never dried in time to highlight, I even used some special tool to apply it.

My basically finished stand of Nurglings

People badmouth GW but they make nice models, expensive, but I spent about six hours painting this one stand of Nurglings. I’m old, my back seriously had seized up by the time it came to highlighting. I could have done better with some better brushes, even using a smaller brush to do highlights and the faces would have helped, but I stubbornly stuck to the one brush even after it became less and less pointy. As Owen noted this was the first model I had ever painted in a store. Usually I go home paint with my paints, with my brushes, which I keep reasonably good care of and sort my colours specifically from lightest to darkest. This model was very much ‘winged’.

If I can get a new job and a new place to live, I’ll put together a painting desk. I’m one of the few people in the world who wants to paint worse. I spent maybe six hours on this Nurgling from opening the package to taking the last photo, Owen looked it up, it was a 15 point model in an army I don’t want to use needing a book I don’t own. So since 1500 points is the standard Warhammer 40,000 game size where I come from, I only need to paint 99 more Nurglings to have an army. If I want to get an army painted I gotta choose models that are easy to paint and high points value, which is why I never start a new army err faction as GW terms them now.

Of course I already have painted almost a dozen Nurgling stands and plenty of other Nurgle demons, more than enough for a 1500 point army, they just wouldn’t be much of a force seeing as how I don’t even know the rules, let alone know enough to build an effective army. Unlike everyone else I’m not big on summoning or deep striking, I’m more into just painting stuff that looks cool.

I actually think I did a better job on the backs of the Nurglings, but I never took a photo of the backs, when the model is finally officially done, based and sealed I’ll take another photo. The tips of the horns kept rubbing off, it’ll be tough to match the paint perfectly, someday I’ll paint again, it was July 18th 2011 when I last finished a model. My back is so shot. Six hour painting days or other long, long days in front of a computer is hard on the back, so what do I do when I get home? Update this blog and pour myself a whisky.

Textured Paint Applied to the Base

The New Chaos Codex is on the Internet

The Chaos Codex is in the wilds of the Internet, so people are starting to learn the nitty and gritty. I’ll probably still just run Plaguemarines until I have the time and energy to paint new toys.

I learned this from the Bolter and Chainsword if you actually want to try and steal the intellectual property of Games Workshop instead of waiting a few more days for your physical copy to arrive, I suggest you search the Internet using Topsy not Google. It’s also Debate Night in America so the Twitterverse and Blogosphere are extra busy tonight…

I haven’t played 40K in years it seems. My life is on hold. I got sucked into following the rumors and some overly opinionated B&C posters seem to have caused various threads to get shut down if not getting themselves banned. I’ve never been banned from any online forums, but I have become disgusted and left some. Sadly given all the other alternatives, the B&C is probably still the best 40K forum as far as I’m concerned.

In the past few weeks I’ve come up with two army lists. One is sort of a wish list based on rumors I read online. The second one is a throwback list back to the end of 2nd Edition and the dawn of 3rd. Basically it is all Plague Marines in small 5 man squads to maximize champions and special weapons. My general will be a Nurgle Lord on a bike, giving him toughness 6 and making Plague Marines Troops. I also want to try out my Defiler.

Plague Marines seems to be a bit cheaper, they are 120 points for five and a champ. Just about every squad in the new codex comes with a champion, which combined with the must challenge and boons of chaos rules, will lead to people painting spare Spawn and Demon Princes in addition to more aspiring champions. I have several painted Beasts of Nurgle but I could use a new Demon Prince perhaps. I thought all my Plague Marine squads had a champion model, but every squad doesn’t have a champion with a powerfist. I probably will run some cheap champs with just melta bombs, that is what I did in the past.

All the Nurgle Terminators I rebased

The other big debate I’ve seen in the blogosphere lately is whether Rhinos are worth it. I plan on using some eventually, especially Rhinos with Havoc missile launchers, but I’ve run foot slogger lists before… I need to do a lot of painting eventually, but my first proposed army list is entirely painted and should come to about 1500 points. I need to get my army out of storage and shoot more pictures of it to put on Flickr… I plan to use some Nurgle Terminators too, though ultimately I’d like some Khorne Terminators with the Forgeworld bits to go with the one I already painted. I plan to do some Nurgle Raptors, but I think Khorne or Slaneesh Raptors maybe better, I’ve been collecting bits for that but now I’ll have to get the new Raptor kit too, maybe some of the many 3rd party bits too.

Servant of Decay test figure

I haven’t gotten to play sixth edition so I’m unsure how much anti-air I need. I was originally thinking Dragon thing, but I’m now thinking I might just add some more models to my Forgeworld wishlist… Cultists are something I’ve been going to do for a long time. I think a squad with a Dark Apostle sitting behind the Aegis Defense wall would be a good home objective sitting squad. It will take me a while to paint them, I think I’ll first concentrate on painting more vehicles that I already own plus maybe a Forgefiend, 8 shots at strength 8 seems like it could be fun, though most people seem to like the other builds…  I always take the path last traveled.

I’m still anti-special character. Chaos seems to have a lot of special characters, I think Ahriman may be the best as I like the Warlord trait he gets. I think knowing what your warlord trait is in advance is a huge advantage and infiltrating three units seems awesome. I also like Fabius Bile as he has Strength 5, a special needle gun, plus makes one unit better. You could totally make a super scoring troop choice with Fabius and other upgrades. Everyone is talking about Abaddon Deathstar Leroy Jenkins builds or Typhus horde J.R. ‘Bob’ Dobbs builds. I’m a slow painter so a horde of cultists will take me months to paint, but I have plenty of power armored CSMs already painted. I need to get some games of 6th Edition but mainly I need a job.

I plan to convert a new Chaos Lord of Nurgle on Bike model plus some mates for him to ride with. I have the bits but in the mean time I will just use a model I converted during 2nd Edition.