Nurgling Contrast

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out…

Recently I bought some more Citadel Contrast Paints along with some Wraithbone to try them out. And although I don’t need them for Warcry and Bill thinks I’m crazy to want to paint more Nurglings, I thought they’d make a great test model for the new style of GW painting. To keep Bill happy and because I actually eventually want to play something, I built all the goblins and squigs I needed for my proposed gang. I even opened a blister I’ve had since the 90s, not sure if it counts as Oldhammer.Old Night Goblin Squig Hearder Blister

Also on my miniature painting table are apparently 30 year old Gretchin because again I have them and thought they’d make a good model to test out new and old paints. I have a lot of old paint that has dried out after years in storage. I also have some black primered metal Nurglings as I’ve long had a dream of a Nurgling heavy 40K army. I was at first going to do 30 stands, then I downsized to 15, but now I’ve decided to go for 27, three squads of nine. As mentioned, Bill thinks I’m crazy.Miniatures being cleaned and assembled

It should go without saying that you need a light undercoat/basecoat to use the Contrast Paints. I chose Wraithbone after reading and watching tutorials online. I also tried some over a darker grey primer from Krylon. It doesn’t work as well, though some swear by a medium grey primer. I’m not sure the Diseased Sons will be converted over to using Contrast Paints, but I’d like to try it on a larger model. I’ve long maintained I don’t want to paint better, I want to paint more efficiently. Of course I just spent hours painting a single stand of Nurglings.

I also painted part of two squigs and worked on more Nurglings. First if you are going for speed, don’t paint your Nurgling stand in pieces. I do think if you basecoat everything at least then assemble it’ll look better, but if speed is your goal, glue then prime. Also don’t paint every Nurgling a unique color. I’ve done a whole stand the same color before, even dry brushed them and it doesn’t look as good as having multiple coloured Nurglings. You can of course choose only two or three colors. You can add further variety by using various washes. That is what I did.

I used every Contrast Paint I had as a skin tone except Skeleton Horde which I saved for the horns. I used a variety of washes, glazes, and inks. I did not use Army Painter Strong Tone something I bought on Bill’s recommendation. Sometimes I used multiple coats of Contrast Paint, sometimes I did not. I even painted some Nurglings regular old GW colors like Camo. I also used Vallejo, Reaper and Foundry paints. In fact for the back row of green Nurlings I did several ever lighter custom blended dry brushes, then of course more washes and Contrast Paints. I also sometimes painted directly in the folds, rather than covering all the skin.

For the Nurglings and the Squigs I touched up things like teeth, horns, eyes, and guts with Wraithbone, sometimes more than once. For the Nurglings I could afford to be a bit sloppy and I did some blood and guts spilling out with reds, but I also used the new Nurgle Technical Paint. I will have to try a “dry” paint. I poopooed them, but honestly I have so many unpainted models. I’m not above dry brushing, especially Nurglings.Almost finished Nurglings painted with Contrast Paints

Although I did take many photos and consulted Bill, I didn’t write down every paint I used on every Nurgling. It will be hard to duplicate any particular one, but the official Nurgle tutorials online are pretty good. I think for my next stand I’ll only use the green contrast paints, maybe skeleton horde on some skin. Then I’d use a variety of washes and inks, obvious colors like greens and browns. I didn’t use any Devlan Mud on these ones, I prefer to carefully apply my washes and inks, rather than the bath technique. I’d do what I did before and dry brush on highlights, then paint the details in Wraithbone again.

That should speed up the process some.

Some people online seem to prime grey then dry brush white then apply Contrast Paints. Others seem to prime black, then paint on grey, rather than counting on say the Wraithbone spray can to stick to bare plastics. You can definitely apply Contrast Paints over light grey paint, I never tried it over pure white except for one squigs eyes.Squig painted with Contrast Paints

It has been cold in Calgary lately and I have a bit of a cold, but it is #MiniatureMonday so I will try to get this post published. If you have questions you can leave them below. Sorry the photos are not the best, the lighting is not the best in my living room, which is why I have so many lights attached to my desk. I might buy or set up a photobooth someday, but for now quick iPhone snaps will have to do. I’m not trying to be #Instafamous.

Painted a Model

After an over three year break, I finally paint another 28mm model.

So I went to see some old friends who just happen to run a gaming store. So while we were talking they said, why don’t you buy a model and paint something, so it became something of a challenge. The models I bought were the new (to me) Nurglings and I used the store paints and even more challenging the store brushes to paint one stand. Nurgling stand in three pieces

I never timed it, I wasn’t in a big rush, I picked Nurglings because I like to paint them and they are good to experiment with, they also can’t look wrong. I used five different colours to basecoat with, one grey, one purple, one green, one blue, and one brown. I never wrote the paint names down, I can’t even pronounce GW’s current paint names. But a clever person could figure out what I used.

I painted the model in three pieces until I got to the highlight stage. I used just one very well-used starter brush which made doing good eyes and teeth almost impossible. I had to repaint a lot of lips and noses. In the end I just had to say good enough because the store had to close.

I used every wash err “Shade” but the red one because it had ran out. I used purple and blue to shade my red. I also used the red glaze some. I tried one of the dry paints, it isn’t for me, but I can see how it would help painting an army of skeletons for instance. Finally after I used many many washes and I used the flat of the brush to do my highlights such as they are, I tried the texture paint to do the base. It never dried in time to highlight, I even used some special tool to apply it.

My basically finished stand of Nurglings

People badmouth GW but they make nice models, expensive, but I spent about six hours painting this one stand of Nurglings. I’m old, my back seriously had seized up by the time it came to highlighting. I could have done better with some better brushes, even using a smaller brush to do highlights and the faces would have helped, but I stubbornly stuck to the one brush even after it became less and less pointy. As Owen noted this was the first model I had ever painted in a store. Usually I go home paint with my paints, with my brushes, which I keep reasonably good care of and sort my colours specifically from lightest to darkest. This model was very much ‘winged’.

If I can get a new job and a new place to live, I’ll put together a painting desk. I’m one of the few people in the world who wants to paint worse. I spent maybe six hours on this Nurgling from opening the package to taking the last photo, Owen looked it up, it was a 15 point model in an army I don’t want to use needing a book I don’t own. So since 1500 points is the standard Warhammer 40,000 game size where I come from, I only need to paint 99 more Nurglings to have an army. If I want to get an army painted I gotta choose models that are easy to paint and high points value, which is why I never start a new army err faction as GW terms them now.

Of course I already have painted almost a dozen Nurgling stands and plenty of other Nurgle demons, more than enough for a 1500 point army, they just wouldn’t be much of a force seeing as how I don’t even know the rules, let alone know enough to build an effective army. Unlike everyone else I’m not big on summoning or deep striking, I’m more into just painting stuff that looks cool.

I actually think I did a better job on the backs of the Nurglings, but I never took a photo of the backs, when the model is finally officially done, based and sealed I’ll take another photo. The tips of the horns kept rubbing off, it’ll be tough to match the paint perfectly, someday I’ll paint again, it was July 18th 2011 when I last finished a model. My back is so shot. Six hour painting days or other long, long days in front of a computer is hard on the back, so what do I do when I get home? Update this blog and pour myself a whisky.

Textured Paint Applied to the Base

The New Chaos Codex is on the Internet

The Chaos Codex is in the wilds of the Internet, so people are starting to learn the nitty and gritty. I’ll probably still just run Plaguemarines until I have the time and energy to paint new toys.

I learned this from the Bolter and Chainsword if you actually want to try and steal the intellectual property of Games Workshop instead of waiting a few more days for your physical copy to arrive, I suggest you search the Internet using Topsy not Google. It’s also Debate Night in America so the Twitterverse and Blogosphere are extra busy tonight…

I haven’t played 40K in years it seems. My life is on hold. I got sucked into following the rumors and some overly opinionated B&C posters seem to have caused various threads to get shut down if not getting themselves banned. I’ve never been banned from any online forums, but I have become disgusted and left some. Sadly given all the other alternatives, the B&C is probably still the best 40K forum as far as I’m concerned.

In the past few weeks I’ve come up with two army lists. One is sort of a wish list based on rumors I read online. The second one is a throwback list back to the end of 2nd Edition and the dawn of 3rd. Basically it is all Plague Marines in small 5 man squads to maximize champions and special weapons. My general will be a Nurgle Lord on a bike, giving him toughness 6 and making Plague Marines Troops. I also want to try out my Defiler.

Plague Marines seems to be a bit cheaper, they are 120 points for five and a champ. Just about every squad in the new codex comes with a champion, which combined with the must challenge and boons of chaos rules, will lead to people painting spare Spawn and Demon Princes in addition to more aspiring champions. I have several painted Beasts of Nurgle but I could use a new Demon Prince perhaps. I thought all my Plague Marine squads had a champion model, but every squad doesn’t have a champion with a powerfist. I probably will run some cheap champs with just melta bombs, that is what I did in the past.

All the Nurgle Terminators I rebased

The other big debate I’ve seen in the blogosphere lately is whether Rhinos are worth it. I plan on using some eventually, especially Rhinos with Havoc missile launchers, but I’ve run foot slogger lists before… I need to do a lot of painting eventually, but my first proposed army list is entirely painted and should come to about 1500 points. I need to get my army out of storage and shoot more pictures of it to put on Flickr… I plan to use some Nurgle Terminators too, though ultimately I’d like some Khorne Terminators with the Forgeworld bits to go with the one I already painted. I plan to do some Nurgle Raptors, but I think Khorne or Slaneesh Raptors maybe better, I’ve been collecting bits for that but now I’ll have to get the new Raptor kit too, maybe some of the many 3rd party bits too.

Servant of Decay test figure

I haven’t gotten to play sixth edition so I’m unsure how much anti-air I need. I was originally thinking Dragon thing, but I’m now thinking I might just add some more models to my Forgeworld wishlist… Cultists are something I’ve been going to do for a long time. I think a squad with a Dark Apostle sitting behind the Aegis Defense wall would be a good home objective sitting squad. It will take me a while to paint them, I think I’ll first concentrate on painting more vehicles that I already own plus maybe a Forgefiend, 8 shots at strength 8 seems like it could be fun, though most people seem to like the other builds…  I always take the path last traveled.

I’m still anti-special character. Chaos seems to have a lot of special characters, I think Ahriman may be the best as I like the Warlord trait he gets. I think knowing what your warlord trait is in advance is a huge advantage and infiltrating three units seems awesome. I also like Fabius Bile as he has Strength 5, a special needle gun, plus makes one unit better. You could totally make a super scoring troop choice with Fabius and other upgrades. Everyone is talking about Abaddon Deathstar Leroy Jenkins builds or Typhus horde J.R. ‘Bob’ Dobbs builds. I’m a slow painter so a horde of cultists will take me months to paint, but I have plenty of power armored CSMs already painted. I need to get some games of 6th Edition but mainly I need a job.

I plan to convert a new Chaos Lord of Nurgle on Bike model plus some mates for him to ride with. I have the bits but in the mean time I will just use a model I converted during 2nd Edition.

Top 5 Plague Marines of All Time

My picks for the top five Nurgle Chaos Space Marines sculpts of all time. As well as a few also-rans from my collection.

Other people keep doing it and who is more qualified than me, I’ve painted just about every Plague Marine or Nurgle Renegade sculpted by GW and some I’ve painted many times. Other people when they do this seem to use photos from GW, what gives with that?  What is the point of having a miniature painting blog and putting up pictures of models you didn’t even paint. How can you be so sure if it is an awesome sculpt if you’ve never had the model in your hands, let alone had the model in your hands for hours while you paint it.

Best Nurgle Chaos Space Marine Sculpts

1) Original Pointing Plague Marine

I believe this model is called “Nurgle Renegade with Plaguebearer Head”. I own exactly one of these models. I stripped it and repainted it. The second paint job was done in Japan with a very limited palette. Folks these days don’t realize how good they have it with their websites, their mail order, their 100s of different colors to choose from, their specialty bits manufacturers. This model was one of the first Chaos Space Marines I bought and one of the few I could scrounge up while in high school, I converted the beginnings of my army from RBT01s and 2nd Edition box set loyalists.

2) Plaguemarine with Nurgling on shoulder

Classic Nurgle Renegades
This model probably came in the same blister as the one above.  These two models probably along with the +1 Toughness encouraged me to go with Nurgle at the dawn of 2nd Edition.  This model was also stripped and repainted in Japan. This is the only copy of the model I have. Looking at this page in Stuff of Legends, (someone borrowed my old catalogs and never gave them back) it appears I do have every Nurgle Renegade. I almost have every Tzeentch one shown too.

3) Nurgle Renegade with Horns aka Nurgle heavy weapon guy

Nurgle Renegade with Heavy Weapon
This model I really liked and was able to find copies of online. I think I may own three. Two are currently painted and in my display cabinet. Dylan was unsuccessful at turning one up, but he’s found lots of old OOP models. I’m unemployed and used to live on an Island in the colonies. The fact I have several is a testament to my passion as a Nurgle collector.

4) Plaguebearer Head #2

This model I did not strip and repaint. He must have come in a blister with one of the other Nurgle Renegades as I’ve had the model since say 1994. It wasn’t unheard of to have blisters with three or more models in them back in the day. Small models like goblins used to come several to a blister. All GW models used to be smaller and even dreadnoughts and bikes came in blisters.

5) Plague Marine Champion

Picking the final model was tough. Every model I picked was basically released before I started playing the game almost. Models were just more desirable and harder to come by back then. You had to save and make a pilgrimage to GW Gastown, then you had to hope they had what you wanted in stock. I backfilled my collection in the mid to late 90s as I traveled across Canada doing co-op work terms. I’d always hunt through old blisters and I ordered a bunch of stuff as it went out of print or traded for it after it was OOP. That said all my favourite models I acquired new when the Diseased Sons were starting out, way before nurgle.muschamp.ca.

Plaguemarine Champ with Plasma Pistol

There have been a number of Plague Marine Champion miniatures. There were two released for 2nd Edition. I used one as a general and the second as a special weapons trooper. There was a special champion that came with the metal Plaguemarine havoc box set, which I converted to be an icon bearer and there is even a champion or at least helmetless model that comes with the Forgeworld Death Guard upgrade kits. I like a lot of these armless models, but I think from a miniature sculpting point of view, the models that have the most personality generally come in one piece and historically are made of metal. So I chose the Plaguemarine Champion with Plasma pistol, the one sighting along his weapon with his breather hanging loose.  I like the guy with the blue face best. I’m big on blue faces for Chaos Space Marines. I’ve tried other colors and blue looks best with green, purple, black, even red power armor.

Converted Plaguemarine Champions

I’m a fan of some of my many converted and kit bashed champion models as are others, but it’s getting so I don’t even remember where I got the bits and pieces from nowadays. My collection is pretty big and I have a lot of unpainted models and bits, that I need to devote time to if my life ever turns around. I also need to buy a real camera, there is a dust mote in my iPhone now, I noticed it the other day, unable to wipe it away. I put up a gallery of Plague Marines before, after I came back from Japan so 2004ish, I’ve painted a few more since then.  ;-)

Three Converted Champions

Syphillis Champions

Nurgle HQ Conversions

A lot of the best Nurgle sculpts were actually Warhammer Fantasy Battle ones which can be incorporated into a 40K army through conversion or daemonic allies.  One model I still have to repaint is my original Chaos Magus, Cancerous the Extremely Naughty.

Rebased Terminators

I would have liked to have had them finished two days ago, but I spent a lot of time waiting for paint to dry, for washes to dry, for glue to dry, for modeling paste to dry. I’ve now rebased all my old terminators on 40mm round bases and can move on to painting new models.

All the Nurgle Terminators I rebased

A lot of steps went into getting them to look like this, including many, many, many hours spent painting the miniatures themselves. The Right Hard Posse was never designed as one big squad, it consists of a lot of extra models and was actually painted as some HQ choices and a couple small squads. Having put all this work into it over the years, I’m going to give the ten man squad a run at this year’s Astronomi-con Vancouver.

Fresh Sprue
Fresh Sprue

In order to get yet more bits to choose from I busted open two boxes of plastic GW models I’ve owned for years. The Goblins weren’t any use, though I was surprised to find Wolf Rider parts and four banner bits in this box. The Flagellants were useful. This box is great for bits. You get two of everything and lots of spare parts such as heads or little bits of chains. The rest of the plastic, metal, and resin bits came from my bitz box and my mountain of sprue.

After gluing the bitz to the bases, I then busted out some modeling paste I had bought.  This wasn’t in the original plan, but some people sware by products like this as a basing material. You can mix paint with it so it can be any colour. You can cut it after it dries, you can even add grit to it. It goes on like icing a cake. I used it to fill in the gaps between the big and small base, but perhaps I should have done this first and then stuck the plastic model bits into the paste, but it was a new product to me, and I never thought of that until it was too late.

Modeling Paste
Modeling Paste

After the paste dried, it looked a lot like snow bases, I’m sure some people have used it for that. One benefit of gluing the bitz to the base is you can then sink them into the ground with paste or just sand and glue. The white paste got a layer of watered down white glue then a dip into my box of beach sand and then another lengthy drying period.

Next came several coats of black paint. The first was regular consistency, the next two were watered down. I recommend gluing sand, and whatever else you plan to use as basing materials to the base during the model assembly phase. That way if you use spray primer you don’t have to go through the repeated coats of black paint that I did. Spray primer does a good job on sand. This is one advantage I have over those paint the model in pieces or mounted on a handle people.

Drybrushing was next, the usual three GW manufactured brown paints. I used a small drybrush, and was a bit heavy, but I’d never get every base to be perfectly the same or the sand to match that was old and with the new. Especially because the old sand was really fine. I like beach sand as it is irregular.

Terminators with modeling paste
Terminators with modeling paste

I started with the metallic bits. They got painted chainmail, followed by two washes, one of Badaab Black and one of Devlan Mud. I also painted some brass bits using Tin Bitz and Brazen Brass. I used a custom thinned Rust Brown Ink with some Plasma Red Ink for them. I also painted the skulls Snake Bite Leather then Bleached Bone. They two got the Rust Brown plus Plasma Red Ink wash.

After all that was dry the metal were done and the skulls looked pretty good, but I put a highlight of Vallejo Beige on them which looked two harsh so another custom wash was used, this time a darker brown mixed with red.  That was it for the skulls. The various heads were painted Dhenab Stone then given a wash, of thinned down purple. Then a highlight of Dhenab Stone. Other bits were painted purple, or red, or brown. I even tried out my English Uniform Brown that I ordered from the Vallejo range.

When all this was done it was time for rust and blood. I did the rust first mixing up a custom wash consisting of water, rust brown ink, and Fiery Orange plus some left over half dried pigments that remain in my rust wash mixing spot…  For the blood I used Tamiya Clear Red and the Lonewolf Blood and Gore method or my interpretation of it.  This really gave the models I nice final touch and it was off to the photo booth.

Sand applied to bases
Sand applied to bases

The squad was pretty much too big to photograph at once.  It worked better as a squad of five models.  I also took some individual model shots all of which are up on Flickr.

Nurgle Terminator with backbanner

Now I’m at a cafe as it is so cold in Vancouver. This weekend I’ll continue to look for a new job, but also start on some Lead Painters’ League entries.  I hope to finish one or two weeks worth before returning to models for my armies.

Old Chaos Terminator Updated